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  1. #1
    95XLT CAB PLUS
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    Smile Cam Sensor Removal

    Dont believe everything they tell you at the parts store. My check engine light came on so I took it to AutoZone. You need a cam sensor so I bought one. I asked them what do I do to replace this. Salesman said nothing to it take 2 screws out unplug it and put new one on. WRONG. When you remove the sensor you have to have a sycro. tool to put it back on. I called the Ford dealer they said they could put it back on. Get this you can drive your truck with it off . So my truck is at the Ford dealer know having the sensor put on correctly. See Ya Greg Christian

  2. #2
    Bob rwenzing's Avatar
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    Quote Posted by Greg Christian
    Dont believe everything they tell you at the parts store. My check engine light came on so I took it to AutoZone. You need a cam sensor so I bought one. I asked them what do I do to replace this. Salesman said nothing to it take 2 screws out unplug it and put new one on. WRONG. When you remove the sensor you have to have a sycro. tool to put it back on. I called the Ford dealer they said they could put it back on. Get this you can drive your truck with it off . So my truck is at the Ford dealer know having the sensor put on correctly. See Ya Greg Christian
    If you only remove the small Hall Effect sensor, you can replace it without the synchronizer tool. If you remove the entire assembly from the block (similar to pulling a distributor), then you need the tool to get it back on the correct tooth of the camshaft.
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  3. #3
    95XLT CAB PLUS
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    All I took off was the sensor not the unit. Somehow something moved when I removed sensor. so the screw holes would not line up. I read it the Haynes manual the tool is required and something about engine top dead center. GREG

  4. #4
    It Tastes Like Burning IaMsEpSiS's Avatar
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    maybe you should have looked into it more if you didn't believe what they told you. research prevents situations like the one you got into

  5. #5
    303K and still going kboyd62's Avatar
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    Quote Posted by IaMsEpSiS
    maybe you should have looked into it more if you didn't believe what they told you. research prevents situations like the one you got into
    Now there's a helpful comment. Rub his nose in it. He'll now know how to fix the problem.
    96 super XLT 3.0 5 spd, bed liner, 303K, 180* stat. Explorer power leather bucket seats, OHC, Console, and Dual lighted visors. Clear corners, white gauges. 4x4 valance w/ fog lights, Streetsmart intake, K&N filter, Underdog crank and alternator pullies, PermaCool e-fan, Magnaflow dual catback, Redline Tuning struts, Mobil 1

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  6. #6
    Rogue Custom Tuning BOSS 3.0's Avatar
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    It's true, if he would have posted here fist....
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  7. #7
    95XLT CAB PLUS
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    Turns out I had a bad cam sensor unit . Which had to be pulled and replaced by Ford dealer . I appreciate the comments I bet you could have figured it out just by looking at it Most pencil neck ******* like you are just full of wisdom or something else have a nice day GREG

  8. #8
    It Tastes Like Burning IaMsEpSiS's Avatar
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    there is nothing that a dealer "has" to do. if you have mechanical skills you can do anything yourself.....

  9. #9
    Rogue Custom Tuning BOSS 3.0's Avatar
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    Which, again, we could have told you if you posted the question here first. Glad you could come by, stop in again when you have another problem you would rather pay your dealer to have fixed.
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  10. #10
    303K and still going kboyd62's Avatar
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    Quote Posted by BOSS 3.0
    It's true, if he would have posted here fist....
    OK, I see your point. Sorry to jump.
    96 super XLT 3.0 5 spd, bed liner, 303K, 180* stat. Explorer power leather bucket seats, OHC, Console, and Dual lighted visors. Clear corners, white gauges. 4x4 valance w/ fog lights, Streetsmart intake, K&N filter, Underdog crank and alternator pullies, PermaCool e-fan, Magnaflow dual catback, Redline Tuning struts, Mobil 1

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  11. #11
    95XLT CAB PLUS
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    If you pocket protector geeks would look on your web site. there is about 8 or 9 replys . Most of the replys say nothing to the cam sensor. Most of them are idots trying to get more horsepower out of there motor. Theres only 1 reply suggest using the sycro. tool. If you read the motor must be top dead center. So back to your reply the forum didnt tell me anything . As I said the sensor that goes into motor was broke which is more than I wanted to mess with. Wish I had contacted you guys Thanks

  12. #12
    It Tastes Like Burning IaMsEpSiS's Avatar
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    5 bucks says you didn't do a search

  13. #13
    s-10 killer Evilranger's Avatar
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    This site has a lot to offer not just tips on how to gain hp. If you would have asked politely or even searched the word "cam sensor" something would have showed up. And just so you know we arent pocket protector geeks we are motorheads.

    VEHICLE:2003 Ford Ranger Toreador red 4.0 automatic
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  14. #14
    Rogue Custom Tuning BOSS 3.0's Avatar
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    Are you replacing the cam position sensor (just the top plastic part), it is a D.I.Y. swap with no special tools. If you are replacing the CPS as an entire until (with the mechanical drive portion that engages the cam and drives the oil pump), you need to have the Ford syncronizing tool to do it right (it can be swapped without the tool if you know what to look for).

    These are the types of replies you get when you ask a question rather than post a statement saying that you were screwed by a sales counter person who was actually trying to help you. But that seems to be your issue, lashing out at people who are trying to help you...
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  15. #15
    95XLT CAB PLUS
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    As I stated I was replacing the cap. Thats when I found out the unit was bad which needed the special tool.I have gotten a lot of good info. from forum . What I dont need is some wise ass telling me I should have searched forum. You can mail the $5 bucks because I checked your forum before and after installation.Thanks for all the HELP.

  16. #16
    It Tastes Like Burning IaMsEpSiS's Avatar
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    thats funny becuase i just did a search on it and i found plenty of info on how to swap it want what to look out for....

  17. #17
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    Same CMP positioning problem

    Greg Christian, the correct attitude may be to approach this like some fictional crime scene detective( I'm not familiar with real detective work ). Stay respectful and know from the start that from the usual suspects you can sometimes get incomplete, contradictory, rude and just plain wrong information. Your job is to hunt for clues and filter out the truth. It would not be cheap to hire someone like Peter Falk to solve the crime and it is not cheap to hire the Ford dealer to fix your engine troubles. I also need the CMP synchronizer repositioned on my '98 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 and the Dealer wants around $300. So first I try Google and skip over all the synchronizer tool adverts. Then I find this message, with the recommendation to search this forum further, also your verdict of searching was a waste of time. Always the optimist I'll take the search this forum further advice. Well I cannot search without being a registered member, so I try that and discover I am a registered member. So I get my username and password emailed, login, and search for "cam sensor". I learn roughly that the crankshaft needs to be turned to a specific position and I may or may not need a synchronizer tool. Boss 3.0 says "Get the tool Do it right" and even gives a Ford part number for my year truck, part no. 303-589; another poster says I don't need a tool and provides a source giving a short paragraph describing in general terms how it is done; another poster says they used an aluminum can tab instead of the tool. I took Boss 3.0's advice and ordered the tool, $39 bucks at etoolcart.com. Now to position the Crankshaft properly. Some posters said set #1 piston at Top Dead Center, the Chilton manual says 10º After Top Dead Center for removal, but in this same book the tune-up specification shows 10B, B being Before Top Dead Center. The marks on the crankshaft pulley moving right show TDC 0, 10, 20, 30, ..., BTDC( starting to get confused ). I don't see marks for 10º ATDC? Do I just guess at 10º ATDC? Then there is the CMP sensor, housing, and synchronizer shaft that is assembled as a unit. The synchronizer install tool sits atop the CMP housing( after CMP sensor plug cap is removed ) and has an arrow. Boss 3.0 says this arrow needs to be positioned 75º counter clockwise. The Chilton manual has a picture on page 4-16 with the installation tool turned 75º counter clockwise from the firewall but the text on this same page says synchronizer drive gear engagement at 30º counter clockwise. I search the web some more and the Autozone online manual shows the same picture with 75º ccw but the text says drive gear engagement at 7º ccw. The helical gears on the CMP synchronizer shaft require starting the CMP install further counter clockwise. If the final installed position is 75º ccw, this puts the CMP sensor cap plug on top of the lower intake manifold Torx bolt and won't fit that way. At most I can turn it 55º ccw. What should be the final CMP installation tool arrow position in ccw degrees? It can't be 75º, that won't work! $300 dealer cost is starting to sound more reasonable.

  18. #18
    Rogue Custom Tuning BOSS 3.0's Avatar
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    At first I thought, "Wow, this noob has got his Scheiße all in one literhozen, but, alas, I was premature...

    We have stated time and time again:
    Quote Posted by The "New to this Board? Start Here!" Post
    - Buy a service manual and become familiar with the basics. Parts location, names, etc. These are available in print and CDROM from Ford (eBay for ~$20), Haynes (any parts store ~$20) and Chiltons (again, parts store ~$20).
    Why are we so eager to "save" $300, yet we won't spend $5 (+S/H) to get a Ford Service CD ROM from eBay? Haynes and Chiltons point things out and explain BASIC maintenance fairly well. Once things have to be removed and replaced (ie: non-tune up parts) they are near worthless.

    Well, here we go:
    Quote Posted by Ford Service CDROM 1998 Ver. 10.0
    "1. CAUTION:
    Do not turn the crankshaft or the camshaft during the removal and installation procedure or the fuel system timing will be out of time with the engine and possibly cause engine damage.

    Rotate the crankshaft until the No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke and the TDC mark lines up with the timing mark.
    2. Note:
    Prior to the removal of the camshaft position (CMP) sensor, note the position of the CMP sensor electrical connector. The installation procedure requires that the electrical connector be located in the same position.
    Remove the camshaft position (CMP) sensor. For additional information, refer to «Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor—3.0L and 4.0L» in this section.

    3. Remove the bolt.

    4. Note:
    The oil pump driveshaft might come out with the camshaft synchronizer. If so, retrieve the oil pump driveshaft before proceeding.

    Remove the camshaft synchronizer.

    1. CAUTION:
    A special tool must be used during the installation of the new synchronizer assembly. Failure to follow this procedure will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage.

    CAUTION:
    It is very important to coat the gear on the camshaft synchronizer with engine oil prior to installation. Failure to do so could result in gear failure.

    Install the special tool on the camshaft synchronizer by rotating the tool until it engages the notch in the camshaft synchronizer housing and the armature.

    2. Note:
    During installation, the arrow on the special tool will rotate clockwise until the oil pump intermediate shaft and the camshaft gear engages.

    Install the camshaft synchronizer housing assembly so the arrow on the special tool is 38 degrees from the centerline of the engine.

    3. Install the bolt.

    4. Install the camshaft position (CMP) sensor. For additional information, refer to Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor—3.0L and 4.0L in this section."
    Here it is from the source.
    I'm still not sure why we go through this everytime.

    Those that can, do.
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    Last edited by BOSS 3.0; Dec 08 2006 at 01:31am.
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  19. #19
    Bowtie Killer JP02xlt's Avatar
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    Are all the V-6 camshaft synchronizers the same? or does anyone have the correct part number for the Ranger 3.0 V6. I tried to look this up on Napa online & several other auto parts sites & could not find the entire synchronizer. Also anybody have an approx. cost of this unit.

    JP02XLT
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  20. #20
    Rogue Custom Tuning BOSS 3.0's Avatar
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    F57Z-12A112A, F58E-12A112-A2B are the two #'s I have for the sensor.
    Sorry, so Synchro P/N's.

    Quote Posted by Ford TSB
    TSB 02-22-1 DRIVEABILITY - SURGE/ROLLING IDLE - GEAR DRIVEN SYNCHRONIZERS - INCORRECT INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT POSITION SYNCHRONIZER (CMP) INSTALLATION TOOL CORRECT APPLICATION
    ENGINE - GEAR DRIVEN SYNCHRONIZERS - INCORRECT INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT POSITION SYNCHRONIZER (CMP) INSTALLATION TOOL CORRECT APPLICATION"
    Covers ALL 3.0L engines in every vehicle made from 1997+, so it seems to be a reoccuring theme. They even have a WDS diagnostic now that is just to detect the synchronizer position for fuel economy and driveability complaints.

    That's why I say get the tool and do it right.


    Here is a good link, they talk about the synchronizer on a 5.0L, but all the pictures are a 3.0L Taurus...
    http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl025h.htm

    Turn the crank clockwise to 0* and DO NOT turn CCW AT ALL. If you pass it, continue 2 rotations and stop at TDC. If you go backwards, you add the timing chain slop in to the equation and your fuel timing can be off 5-12*. My last timing chain showed no problems but was off by more than 10*!
    Last edited by BOSS 3.0; Dec 08 2006 at 12:17pm.
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  21. #21
    S-10 Driver
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    Boss 3.0 has solved the case! Thank you for the prompt and clear explanation. If I had known about the Ford CDROM and how much better it was than the Chilton I would have bought it before I removed the old engine and installed the remanufactured one.

  22. #22
    Built Ford Tough ThreePointSlow's Avatar
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    I'm still confused on how to replace this unit..

    CAn I get some pictures?
    2002 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0L V6
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  23. #23
    Rogue Custom Tuning BOSS 3.0's Avatar
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    You can get a service manual....
    '05 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, SOHC, 4x4, Auto
    '05 Focus, 2.0L Duratec, 5 Sp, MBRP Exhaust, K&N CAI, LiveWire, Ethanol!

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  24. #24
    Built Ford Tough ThreePointSlow's Avatar
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    Damn Boss, I already got a haynes, but images do better for me then words I don't wanna blow my truck up but I'll figure it out.
    2002 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0L V6
    - 3.5 Fabtech Spindle Lift
    - 2.5' King Shock Smooth Body's w/ Resevoirs
    - 8.8 rear differential w/ 4:56's
    - 35x12.5x15' Kelly Muds
    - K&N Intake
    - Flowmaster Exhaust
    - Superior Shift Kit
    - Duff Traction Bars
    - 3.0 Power Pulleys
    - Bilstein Shocks in the Rear
    - Custom Spare Tire Rack
    - Fiberglass Fenders & Bedsides
    - All Black Daytona Rims
    - Lots of Misc. Mods

  25. #25
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    I replaced my cam syncro with the heads off and it was a piece of cake. Of course, you don't want to do that, but don't be afraid. It's not really that hard. The electical part on the top comes off with 2 screws....and a plug you unplug. Then you have the mechanical part. All of this is behind wiring and very difficult to get to...but it can be done. When you find TDC (pull #1 sparkplug out and stick your wife's finger in the hole and turn the engine over with a socket wrench until she hollers "I feel pressure!". Then you are at TDC. Look at the timing marks to confirm. Then just unbolt the one bolt holding the cam syncro into the block, and pull it straight up. Note the position of the tooth on the rotating shaft. It should be in the center of the gap. Mine was a little off, but when I dropped the new syncro in, I just made sure it was centered in the gap. It literally dropped right in....no tool, nothing special...easy as pie.

    Tighten up the bolt and install the sensor again and run the engine. In a few seconds/minutes, it will smooth out and you're good to go. This job is really very easy to do. It is just the unknown that makes it difficult. It's hard to see and hard to get at, but it really is very simple to do. There is a world of information and pictures posted here that will give you a better idea of what is needed to do. Look at them and then you will be able to do it.

  26. #26
    Rogue Custom Tuning BOSS 3.0's Avatar
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    Problem is, no one else has one, unless you can talk someone here in to posting pix....
    '05 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, SOHC, 4x4, Auto
    '05 Focus, 2.0L Duratec, 5 Sp, MBRP Exhaust, K&N CAI, LiveWire, Ethanol!

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  27. #27
    Daily Driven since 03 Ranger0n20sss's Avatar
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    Now I finally know the reason why guys would "lower" a Ranger

  28. #28
    The Xtreme! CUTiger's Avatar
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    Quote Posted by Ranger0n20sss
    well i dont have pix but this website will... its a very good site to have in the favorites!

    www.shopkey5.com

    username: mbrown
    password: snapontools
    looks like a cool page but you have to use Internet Explorer...
    2003 Ford Ranger XLT Ext. Cab 3.0L FFV

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    MODS TO COME

  29. #29
    He is Risen mrmrrck's Avatar
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    Threepointslow, PM me I've got some pics that might help out...
    MRMRRCK

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  30. #30
    shoulda got a superduty.. Ryan KDX's Avatar
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    Didnt you (mrmrrck) do a "how to" on this very problem a few months ago??

 

 
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