Well I got started on tearing down the engine this afternoon (new cam, heads, headers, injectors, maf, etc.) and I have questions already.

1. Do I have to remove the a/c compressor and a/c condenser to have enough clearance to install the cam and head on the driver sides? It looks like it might be possible to drop them out of the way, but the Haynes manual is pretty adamant about not disturbing the system without purging it first.

2. And what is the size of the nut on the fan? I have tried 2 different fan wrench kits, and neither (one being a 40mm and the other a 36mm) would work. I am guessing it is about a 32mm by the looks of the slop around the nut when I tried the 36mm.

3. I was wondering also if I should replace the water pump at this time. There seems to be some movement when I grab the fanshaft and wiggle it. Marginal as it is, years ago this would have been significant enough to consider replacing it. The engine only has 32,000 miles on it.

What type of thinwall socket do you need to remove the lower alternator mounting bracket bolt. The one hidden behind the belt tensioner? Everyone I've tried bines against the tensioner.

Anyway, I will hit it again in the morning so any help to these questions, and additional advice on others obstacles I might run into would really be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim

Not sure about your engine bay since it's a little different, but when we did Gerry's swap we were able to move the compressor and condensor around enough to get everything in and out without disconnecting them. I know the lines are run slightly different on the newer motors but I'd imagine you could do something similar. This might require atleast one extra set of hands if not more.

Not sure what size the nut is, but try hitting it on the left side (as you face the nut) with a cold chisel. Once you've broken the nut free with a few hits, you should be able to just spin the fan all the way off the water pump pulley. Be ready to catch it, these fans are considerably heavier than I had expected.

I'm not sure about the other questions. I can't really think what we did at those points right now, but I thought I'd give the advice I had now. If I can come up with anything else I'll let you know. Maybe when Gerry gets online and sees this he'll have some pointers to show you as well.

1. Do I have to remove the a/c compressor and a/c condenser to have enough clearance to install the cam and head on the driver sides? It looks like it might be possible to drop them out of the way, but the Haynes manual is pretty adamant about not disturbing the system without purging it first.
No, like Wed said you may need an extra set of hands but you should be able to lift these up far enough to get them out of the way.

2. And what is the size of the nut on the fan? I have tried 2 different fan wrench kits, and neither (one being a 40mm and the other a 36mm) would work. I am guessing it is about a 32mm by the looks of the slop around the nut when I tried the 36mm.
I'm gonna go again with Wed, use some sort of long chisel or punch and hit it down on the left side if your facing the front of the engine, or the passengers side. Its a right hand thread.


3. I was wondering also if I should replace the water pump at this time. There seems to be some movement when I grab the fanshaft and wiggle it. Marginal as it is, years ago this would have been significant enough to consider replacing it. The engine only has 32,000 miles on it.
With only 32,000 miles I wouldn't unless I saw something to make me think it was bad or leaking.

What type of thinwall socket do you need to remove the lower alternator mounting bracket bolt. The one hidden behind the belt tensioner? Everyone I've tried bines against the tensioner.
I'm not quit sure what your asking but If its the one I think it is then why don't you simply remove the middle tensioner bolt and the tensioner to get to it? Let me know on that.

Let us know if you need anymore help!

Later Doug904.

Dido to all of the above,,,, just make sure you hit the fan nut on the left side of a flat part. It migh take a few smacks but it'll come off. It would help if you had someone to hold the fan while your doing this.

As for the bolt,, do what Doug said and just remove the tensioner and you'll be all set.

If you need anything else jsut post it :).

Men.....

Why would that damn Haynes insist that you can't do the cam without removing the engine?

Thanks you guys, this is bringing back old memories. I am sure that I will have more questions as I go along. I am really glad that this site and you guys are here to help.

Jim

I took the tensioner off first it was a lot easier.
as for the fan The wrech set for fan removal I have was the right size, so what about renting a set or usinging a ajustable wrench, you are going to go to a electric right?

curt

Curt,

I got the tensioner removed.....was a little apprehensive about something that is spring loaded so I had to ask about it. Thanks Doug. I am not sure if I am going with a electric fan yet. Still kicking around the different varieties to choose from so maybe by this afternoon I will have made a decision. Haven't battled it out yet with the fan shaft nut and chisel but I will check with Checker to see if they have the correct wrench for the nut itself. The tool for te pulley in the 2nd kit holds tight, but the 36mm wrench for the nut is still to large. But now I also need to know what size torx socket I should get for the fuel rail/upper manifold bolts. I am replacing the injectors so I need to remove it from the lower intake. I bought a E6 torx as suggested but that is to small. Running to Auto Zone or Checker as soon as they open so I will pickup what I need then if anyone has a suggestion. This is pretty fun stuff, except of course....the damn wiring harness, but I took plenty of pics as I go along so it shouldn't be to difficult to backtrack.

Thanks,

Jim

Well I just put an e-fan on my truck this past week and let me tell you it makes an amazing difference. I never thought that such a simple mod would make such a noticeable difference especially since I've already got the supercharger but it does. Between the e-fan on the adjustable engine link of Dougs that I put on the motor is much more repsonsive on launches and shifts.

As for removing the fuel rail I've always done it by grabbing two nuts that hold the upper intake on and double nutting the studs and using those to remove the fuel rail studs. Does that make sense? It's kind of a hard thing to describe without visual aids.

Because they can :). They get to work on brand new cars and trucks and they make it look so easy... lol.

Now back to business......

Auto Zone should have a fan remove tool for a 4.0 that you can rent but you might not need it. We just did Wed's e-fan 4 days ago and the stock fan came off with just 2 or 3 blows from the 3lbs sledge and a punch/pin remover (long pointed rod). Try it, you might get lucky and it'll come right off :E.

When we removed Wed's fuel rail and mine we double nutted (is that even a word :)) the studs using the upper intake bolts and they the came right out. It’s not the fastest way but it worked.

Good luck and we'll be waiting for an update.

Gerry

If I'm thinking of the same bolts on the upper intake I didnt use a torx bit. I found a small socket to fit over it(no double nut/locking setup like wed/gerry) and they came right out. I think it was like 4mm or something very small.

You guys are to smart. I have gone the double-nut route before but with my mind being cluttered with everything else, it didn't even come into play until you mentioned it. And thanks for the input on the small socket. I have done that with torx heads before and was considering that when I decided to take a break and update you guys. I am at the point of spinning it to TDC and removing the rocker arms and heads. Haven't got to the fan yet but with having all the rest of the stuff out of the way( the harness is a lot of work), it sure looks a hell of a lot easier now. If I go the e-fan do I just bolt the pulley back on and leave it like that? The exhaust manifold bolts/nuts came off real easy after using the PB Blaster that Jason recommended. I still have to disconnect the rest of the exhaust back to the cat and take a look at what I will do to retrofit the JBA's to make them work. So far....so good. I'll check back in a while.

Wed.....what fan did you go with and any help with how and what you used for the install would help bud.

Gerry......when you installed your 410 did you have to address any issues with the cam position sensor?

Update!!!!!


Ended up using a chisel, pulley wrench and a 3lb'er. One whack and it worked great. Have the rocker arms off....the exhaust manifolds, O2's are out and clearing the path to the cat flange. That PB Blaster is the sh!t.!!!! Now to bust the heads loose and then tackle the waterpump and timing set. My buddy of 30 years is over helping and it sure comes in handy to have an extra set of hands. On to it.

Jim

I went with the Flex-lite trim line fan jus tlike we put on Gerry's truck. Though I had move clearance between the pulley bolt and the fan than he did so I got to put mine right in the middle. Here's the list of parts I bought from Summit for my fan install.

FLX-116 $83.95
PRF-30101 $24.95
PRM-18905 $49.95

Gerry did all the wiring, but he followed the instructions he got over at generation-edge.com.

Gerry's truck didn't have a cam position senson so we didn't have to mess with that. From what I understand, we got luck on that one.

Thanks for the info Wed. I will get a hold of Summit in the morning. Can you tell me how long you had to wait for it to arrive?

I'm giving it a rest for today. I had been at it since around 4:30 a.m. and was starting to get a little fried. I had one hell of a good time today with my buddy doing this though. I'm sure Wed and Gerry can appreciate that. We have it apart now down to the timing cover but I had some questions about that before I remove it tomorrow. I hope someone can answer them.

1. When you pull the timing cover, do you have to worry about any water/antifreeze running into the oil pan? I will stuff it with rags once I get it off, as Doug’s article states and change out the oil before I fire it up, but is this something to worry about. And what do you have to do to reseal the gasket where the timing cover and oil pan meet? Will I need to replace the crankshaft seal?

2. Once I have the cover and chain off, is there anything that I should do before I pull the Cam Position Sensor, like marking its position or whatever. And once the cam is installed, can I just slip the sensor back in? This was why I was asking Gerry earlier about this. And with Wed saying they were lucky that they didn't have to do this, I am a little leery about this.

3. Did you guys run a tap through all of your bolt holes in the block before you installed the new heads? Can you tell me what size it is? And did you use any thread dope on the bolts themselves? How about cleaning the lifters before installing the new pushrods? Do you have to use a break-in oil of any type? Is cleaning the mating surfaces with a scraper and acetone ok or is there something different/better that I should consider or use?

4. Last but not least, I have Motorcraft Platinum #AGRF22P. 5 of them....that's right 5. The other one is a #AGRF22PG. Why would they use 5 of the same and one oddball out of the factory? I thought that was kind of strange so I figured I would bring it up.

Anyway, there is more that I will have to ask I'm sure. I know it's a lot of sh!t, but I don't want to mess this up and have to do it again. I appreciate the help.

Well I had to wait probably an hour and a half to get the parts from Summit. About an hour of travel time, and about 30 minutes in the store. :E

I know that Gerry and I had a blast working on his truck. I think towards the end he was getting annoyed at me, because I wanted him to start the darned thing up. But we got through it. I think we'll have even more fun on the next project, but we'll have to wait till spring for that one.

Yes you will probably get some antifreeze into the oil pan when you remove that cover. Just make sure to change the oil before you start the truck and it should be fine. We used two small dabs of black RTV sealant right around the front of the crank shaft on the oil pan to seal everything back up. We also used new gaskets on everything, but I'm sure you've got that covered already.

Well we didn't have the cam position sensor, but from what Doug told us on the phone you just make it once you've got the motor to TDC and make sure not to move it at all once it's out. Than after you put the new cam in you just replace it and make sure your marks line back up. I know when we were talking to Doug he was very adimit about us not moving the sensor, but than he found out we didn't have one.

We didn't use a tap on any of the holes. Just put everything back on and bolted it up. We just used a standard gasket scrapper to get all the excess off of the mating surfaces. We didn't even go so far as to use the acetone.

And last but not least I don't have the foggiest about the plugs. Sorry.

Yea, What he said :E.

One thing I'd like to add in reference to the timing chain and tensioner. When we took mine off Wed held the tensioner with both hands as I unbolted it. Then we put one of those quick grip holders on it so it would hold the spring in place. Then we took off the cam sprocket and let the chain hang down with it still on the chain guide on the right. This made the re-install a breeze and we didn't loose a thing. As Doug will tell you, that little spring inside the tensioner will go flying in a heartbeat if you don’t hold on to it good and you'll never find it.

And for the A/C,, we were able to bend the two flexible hoses (one on each side of the condenser) up/back far enough to lift the condenser up high enough to get he cam out. It’ll take a little work but it’ll defiantly get out of the way for you. The downside to this,, you can hold the new cam from the top as you feed it into the motor but and extra set of hands helping from the pass. side will be al you need to side it right in. Don’t forget the use some engine assembly lube on the cam before you put it in.

That’s about all I can think of for now but if I think of something else I’ll post it :E.

Hey Doug,
Can you "STICKY" this thread? this good info.


Mr XLT

Here's a way to remove the CMP sensor without having to have the tool to reinstall it.

First turn the engine to TDC, top dead center before you do anything else to it. Next, remove the top cover or actual CMP sensor off of the oil pump drive.


http://www.4.0performance.com/ohv/cmp1.jpg


Then you will notice a half-moon shaped peice of metal.

http://www.4.0performance.com/ohv/cmp2.jpg

Note with some sort of paint market, liquid paper or even sharpie the location of both of the ends of the half moon, or circle in reference to the aluminum body. Kinda like noting the location of a rotor button when you remove a distributer. Then remove it.

After you get the camshaft installed and timing chain back on then set everything up on TDC on #1 once again and drop the sensor back in place. This should give you the correct set up.

Later Doug904.


EDIT*** Oh and for the plugs, just replace them using AGSF's as the prefix. What you have is correct from the factory and then they use these to replace them with.

Hey Jim,
Just make sure to blow out all the bolt holes to clear them of any debris before you put the heads back on. Also when using the t-55 torx to remove the head bolts. Make sure you get a high quality one and hold it as tightly as possible in the head bolt. It is more than possible to strip out the top of the head bolt. That last
85-90 degree twist on the torque spec is easier said than done.
Inspect your old heads to see if you have any cracks. I was absolutely shocked to find out both of mine were cracked. My truck ran fine so it gave me no noticeable indication that were cracked. If they are cracked it'll be quite small and usually right between the valves.

I almost forgot, even though you have low miles on your engine.
Make sure to buy new head bolts. Tapping out the head bolt holes isn't a bad idea since it will ensure that the torque readings are true.

Wed and Gerry....Summit is showing that FLX-116 as being a pusher fan. Could one of you elaborate on this?

FLX-116: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp&type=bysummitpart&searchtype=both&part=FLX-116

Thanks for the info on the cover to pan mating surfaces. I was a little in the dark about whether or not I should replace the front seal and what to do about the pan gasket area.

Doug.....I was wondering when you were going to step up to the plate on the sensor. Nice info on the CMP. I understand exactly what to do. If I had the sensor tool would it make for a more precise alignment? And when I get the plugs this morning, should I still consider ones that are a heat range colder the stock? Nice avatar.....your son looks very happy. Hell....I would be...hehe.

J....thanks for the input on the torx. Doug had clued me in on this quite a while back and I purchased a couple of the best ones I could find and by the sound of what I've been hearing about the last 80-90 degrees (that still doesn't sound like it would be as precise as bringing them down to an exact value) I'm glad I did. I have a set of Dougs performance heads that I am installing so I am going to let Bird checkout the old heads and wait to hear his findings.

Jim,

The FLX-116 is a pusher or puller efan, it's just a matter of how you wire it up and what side of the radiator you mount it on. If you mount it on the motor side and you want a puller fan you wire the red wire from the fan to + and the black wire from the fan to -. If you want a pusher fan you reverse the two wires. It's that simple.

Another option if you have a single core radiator and want a bigger cfm fan is to use the one from Jason's web site (aka GenerationEdge). Here's the link to his install guide (http://www.generation-edge.com/forums/efan.asp) and then here's a link to his efan PRR-5170 (http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadefhdb&GHOME=www.parrautomotive.com&TITLE=Parr_Automotive). Hope that answers your question.

Gerry

Gerry.....I called Summit this morning and they informed me of that also. I ordered the FLX-116 and the other parts Wed said to get. It should be here by Wednesday, Thursday at the latest. We'll see. Might have to pick your brain a little for any tips or shortcuts. Seems pretty plain and straight forward though. Thanks.

Can anyone tell me what size and type of bolt goes through the puller into the crank pulley? Tried 6 different bolts from two different pullers and none of the threading was correct on any of the bolts.

I tried to get plugs today at Auto Zone but after a half-hour of cross referencing the numbers Brian gave me, and even using the AGSF22PPM to find a lower heat range, I gave up. Will I be ok with the stock replacement?

Originally posted by FM53
Can anyone tell me what size and type of bolt goes through the puller into the crank pulley? Tried 6 different bolts from two different pullers and none of the threading was correct on any of the bolts.

I tried to get plugs today at Auto Zone but after a half-hour of cross referencing the numbers Brian gave me, and even using the AGSF22PPM to find a lower heat range, I gave up. Will I be ok with the stock replacement?

Hey Jim,
Scroll down and find my 'Crankshaft pulley removal' thread for a few clues. I lucked out and had the right pitch threads on the puller bolt I was using. But I have been told that the A/C bracket bolts will work in a pinch.

Originally posted by FM53
Can anyone tell me what size and type of bolt goes through the puller into the crank pulley? Tried 6 different bolts from two different pullers and none of the threading was correct on any of the bolts.

I tried to get plugs today at Auto Zone but after a half-hour of cross referencing the numbers Brian gave me, and even using the AGSF22PPM to find a lower heat range, I gave up. Will I be ok with the stock replacement?


Use your a/c compressor bolts for the crankshaft dampner puller. They are a metric thread. Also start your old crankshaft pulley bolt in the hole and pull against the head of it until you can't anymore. Then hopefully you will have it off enough to wiggle it the rest of the way off. If not you can try pushing against an extention.

Yes, your stock ones will be fine.

Later Doug904.

Originally posted by Doug904
Use your a/c compressor bolts for the crankshaft dampner puller. They are a metric thread. Also start your old crankshaft pulley bolt in the hole and pull against the head of it until you can't anymore. Then hopefully you will have it off enough to wiggle it the rest of the way off. If not you can try pushing against an extention.

Yes, your stock ones will be fine.

Later Doug904.

Cool!!, I posted about the same thing at almost the same time.:nuts: :) But I learned from the best eh Doug .:thumbsup:

"Experience" is right. I was going to throw that comment in on the "porting my heads" post but I didn't want to look as if I was blowing smoke

Thanks Jason......I got a lesson today about the pitch on threads. I thought that the pitch on the treads for the headbolts was 1.75 but ended up that they were 1.50.

Thanks again,

Jim

Doug.....what should I set the gap at?

.048-.052 should be a good gap. Your not forcing anything in there so your just wanting to ensure you get a good combustion spark. The widder the better but the stock gap is too much in my opinion.

Later Doug904.

Update time!!!!!


I removed the crank pulley using the advice given. Scared the crap out of me a little. The cam wasn't bad at all. I did find a nice tool to use when removing the chain tensioner. It's a spring clamp with rubber tips covering the ends. It worked great for holding everything together and allowed plenty of room to get to the bolts. The a/c condenser wasn't a problem at all. Remove the 2 mounting bolts and I could lift it up enough so it was easy to work around it. Old cam out. New cam in. Buttoned everything back up with loctite for the internals, and RTV on the gaskets and pan/cover surfaces. The cam sensor seemed to line up ok. I had it marked off pretty good though. At least I know how to access it and what to do if it's off. I threw the heads in place and that is where my questions come into play. I was reading a post here, where it looks as if you are to install the lower intake along with the heads. I hope I'm not misunderstanding what was stated, but it looks as if you are suppose to install them together. Not quite sure about those instructions. Haynes says to install the heads and torque them down first, as I have in the past. Is either way correct?

Should you apply any thread dope to the head bolts? One other thing, I have been using Mobil 1 for 2 years now and was wondering if there is any suggested oil to use for the break-in? Comp Cams suggests not using synthetics or it will void your warranty.

Well I don't know if this is the correct way, but I can tell you how we did it when we put the heads on Gerry's truck. We put the heads on, torqued them down, and than followed the instructions for installing the lower intake manifold and torqued it down. We didn't oil anything down any special way. Just made sure to change the oil before we started it up. Than we changed the oil again about a week later. This was more of my doing than anything else. Just didn't like the idea of all that assembly lobe floating around in there, even though I've been told it tends to disolve in oil once you run the motor. I couldn't really say about the Mobile 1. Gerry uses just regular conventional oil in his truck so that's what we put in. I use Mobil 1 in my truck though and while I'll probably use a conventional oil for the first oil change I will deffinately switch back after that.

Thanks Wed.......I found the article in the tech section and I guess either way would work fine. Haynes instructions say to do it as you and Gerry did. That is the way I have been use to in the past. You guys use any thread dressing (loctite, anti-sieze, teflon, etc.) on anything (besides the head bolts)?

Thanks,

Jim

Glad to hear everything’s going good.

As for your questions about using a thread dressing. The only thing we did was used some anti-seize on the header bolts. We did that because the instructions when I first installed the headers said too :). Other then that, everything was a direct replacement aside from the new head bolts.

Don't forget the anti-seeze we put on the vavle cover bolts as well, as per instructios from Doug.

Cool. I just came in from torqueing down the heads. I'm glad you didn't tell me to put something on them. I might have over-torqued them by 1lb. though. I looked at settting after doing the 90 degree turn and it was closer to 60 then it was to 59lb. I hope this isn't a reason to buy new head bolts. I will install the intakes and headers tomorrow and by Thursday if the e-fan shows, I might be able to fire it up.


Thanks you guys,,

Jim

This is theory, but I'm thinking the regular oil vs synthetic would have to do with regular lifters, not the roller lifters on a Ranger. Flat lifters need to be broken in properly and with the correct lube on them, or either they or the cam fail in no time flat.

It won't hurt to run it for a few hundred miles on regular oil though if that makes you feel more comfortable, or give Denis a call and ask him.

Thanks Mike. It has been in the back of my mind for a while now and calling Dennis is a great suggestion.

Jim

The Flex-a-lite showed up today. Everything but the valve covers (waiting on the powdercoating) is installed. I have to play with the y-pipe and cat flanges this afternoon and hopefully I will hear back from Doug about a concern of mine and if he gives me the go-ahead, I can fire it up tomorrow. Any last minute details or a check of things that you guys can offer would be appreciated. I have a list but you never know. The only place that I could find the double platinum plugs was through the Ford dealership. They retail them for $10.00 each but because I know the guys in the parts department, they let me have them for $7.00. Plus they are anxious to see the end result. Mark my buddy who has been working on this with me just about sh!t when I showed him the receipt.

Jim

Doug.....please read your mail. At least the one from me.

Jim, What question did you have for Doug?? Maybe one of us can help you.

The ony thing I can think and I'm sure you've already done it is just make sure everything is tight, re-connected and that you change the oil before you re-start the engine. Good luck and trust me... you'll be very happy with the results :E.

Hey Gerry,

It was a question concerning the position of the Cam Sensor after I swapped out the cam. I marked it's position before I pulled it as he suggested but when I put it back in, it was a tad off from the marks and this has been in the back of my mind since. I did try relocating it on the cam one notch in either direction but it made such a radical change to the location of the tang/pointer that I knew that wasn't correct. I guess I was a little curious if maybe this could just be a characteristic of the cam gear itself.

When you and Wed installed the Flex-a-lite, did you use the relay for a manual switch or the ignition switch. You used a tempeture sensor also correct? BTW....I was real pleased with Summit's service.

Thanks,

Jim

Email sent, its always better to reach me at that Email I sent it to you from Jim rather then my 4.0Performance email. Like tonight It wouldn't even let me respond and timed out twice before I could even read your email.

Just let me know if you have anymore problems.

Thanks Doug904.


***EDIT**** Jim, If you can wait I just placed an order with Rotunda for the CMP syncho tool part number 303-638 for the 00' 4.0 and 3.0. I can express it to you when it comes in along with the set up instructions.

Originally posted by FM53
Hey Gerry,


When you and Wed installed the Flex-a-lite, did you use the relay for a manual switch or the ignition switch. You used a tempeture sensor also correct? BTW....I was real pleased with Summit's service.

Thanks,

Jim

Jim, all of these that I've installed I've used the relay and a temp sensor. I actually salvaged one from a edge bander that controls temp in a hot melt tank, which was adjustable, and recalibrated it to work on a car. I use a manual over ride switch as well, just in case the temp sensor fails or you want some extra cooling.

Doug....I sent you an email to the addie that you sent your reply from. I hope that makes sense, it's early.


Mike.....did you power the relay off the battery or off the ignition switch?

Thanks you guys,

Jim

Jim,,, here's how I wired up the e-fans on my truck and Wed’s truck..

For the T-stat
The brown wire can be cut off unless you're running 2 e-fans. The blue wire goes to the purple wire under the dash for the A/C. The yellow wire goes to the red wire on the fan itself. The red wire goes to one of the two red wires on the relay. I think you can figure out were the black ones go for the t-stat & e-fan.

For the relay
Run the red wire from the temp sensor to the turn on wire from the relay as stated above. Then run the other red wire and gray wire to one of the posts on the circuit breaker (put the fuse holder in-line on this red wire). Again I think you can figure out were the black wire goes. Then run a short piece of red wire from the remaining post on the circuit breaker to a constant power source (I used one side of the starter solenoid because it was close and had constant power).

That’s about it, if you need anything else just let me know and it you want I can take a picture of my wiring so you can see where everything went.

Gerry

As I am in the process of doing the fan right now, I thought I would take a break, grab a Dew and drop you guys a line. I got my concern about the CMP sensor resolved with Dougs help and advice. I went to Ford this morning and Dana (my parts man there) asked the shop foreman to borrow me their synchronizer tool. When he explained to Mike (the shop foreman) what I was doing he says to me "No Problem". So I bring it home, pull the sensor, drop the tool on it, and it lines right up. That was nice. I go back to Ford to drop the tool off and they ask if there is anything else they can help me with. They give me the 3rd degree to make sure that I have all the avenues covered and as I am leaving Mike says to me, "Make sure to stop by when your done. I want to check it out and you owe me a ride" I think that is pretty damn good of those guys.

I got my valve covers back this moring too. They look really good. It's a gal that does the powdercoating and owns the busines. She's done other stuff for me in the past and always comes through. I went with "Old Ford Blue" It came the closest to matching the wire loom that I am using. I think it will look good.

Gerry.....thanks for directions on the fan, relay and stat wiring. It will be a hell of a lot easier now. I appreciate it. Time to get back to it. It's getting close now and I'm sure you guys know the feeling of the electricity running through me.

I still have the y-pipes to finish. I don't want to rush so if Saturday is the day....so be it.

Sounds great Jim, I'd love to see some pics of the final outcome of your project. Was the CMP synchro tool that difficult to use?

Jason...the tool is easy to use once you understand the concept behind the CMP sensor itself. But I'll leave that to the guru himself. Doug can (and probably should as a tech sticky) explain it better, but it is something that you'll want to be conversant with before attempting to do.


I have to change the color of my wire loom. The 2 blues clash horridly but I like the color of the old ford blue under the hood.


Hey Wed.....did your JBA's bolt up flat and even against your heads on the install? I really like that pic of your truck on your website. That's would be my second choice of colors also. It contrasts very nicely with chrome or polished aluminum.

Oops!! In my haste I forgot to do something that I think might have a bearing on the startup procedure. I was in such a hurry to mount the heads that I forgot to lube the damn cylinders. Would it be ok to buy a can of fogger and shoot a blast into each plug hole or maybe a squirt of oil into each one? Damn!!!!

What are you talking about Jim??? You don't need to lube the cylinders, you just need to lube the cam.

Now for your JBA question,,, they won't sit totally flat on the head because they have a donut ring so to speak on the flange that helps seal the headers to the head. It also squishes the gasket that comes with the headers against the head. This is how mine are and Wed's are and they sealed up great. Have fun bolting them on :).

Gerry,

They are already bolted on......I just wanted to check about the mating of them. I guess I am good to go then. Still working on the y-pipes. I might have to import Curt if I plan on getting them done by tomorrow. Still working on the e-fan also. Bitch of a time trying to find adequate space to mount the damn relay and adjustable temp stat. I think I have it covered though. As far as the cylinders...I don't like the idea that they are dry from the pistons up. I wiped and blew the crap out of them before I installed the heads. I just don't care to have the rings sliding on the dry pavement before the oil slick arrives, if you know what I mean. I bought some fogger oil and I will give them each a squirt before I stick the plugs in which will be in a couple minutes. Thanks Gerry

Jim

Maybe I'm missing something here but the top of the pistons shouldn't have any oil on them at anytime. The oil/lubrication for the cylinders walls comes from below the pistons and the rings hold back the oil from reaching the top of the piston head. If you had oil on the topside of the pistons you'd be burning oil all the time and the truck will smoke like a MoFo.

If I have this all wrong someone please correct me but I think I'm on the right track here.

Later!

Since the heads were off the tops of the cylinders might be a little
dry. Guess Jim's just tryin' to cover all of his bases. But you're right Gerry it will smoke like a mofo for a few seconds. But it shouldn't hurt anything.

Hey Jim,why don't you disconnect the plug from the coilpack and just turn the engine a cupple of times to get the oilpressure up to start lubricating,before you realy fire up the engine.

LATER OMAR!!!

Thanks for the advice guys. I just bought some fogging oil and sprayed a short blast into each of the cylinders, turned it over a few times by hand so it should be good to go.

When you you fill your cooling system, any of you ever use distilled water for the mix?

I having a problem fitting the new 75mm Pro-M and my K&N F.I.P.K. intake tube into the allotted space. The 75mm is about 2-2 1/2 in. longer then the 70mm. Plus the end of the intake tube is tapered so I'm not sure if I can cut it to make this work. If anyone else has run into this little problem would you let me know what you did to remedy this.

And I have to fabricate a metal strap of some sort to to use as an anchor for the oil dipstick tube to the block. The flange on the JBA's doesn't allow the tube to come in close enough to the block to use the existing mounting hole.

And because I spent most of the day routing the wiring harness through the split loom, I still haven't found the time, or a suitable location, to mount the temp stat and relay for the e-fan.

I still have to do the y-piping to the cat also. I don't think it will be that difficult but it might be another day before I'm done with everything.

And what is the torque setting for the upper intake bolts.I couldn't find any reference to it in my Haynes.

And last but not least. I'm still having a great time doing this and would do it again in a heartbeat. The only thing that could have been better? It's been a exceptionally beautiful week up here weatherwise and my wife of 34 years had yesterday off from work. It would have been choice to have had this all done and been able to go out cruising together enjoying the fall colors, each other, and the ride. Just a thought.

Later you guys

Got the MAF fitted. Now on to the e-fan.

Yeah the 75mm MAF is most deffinately larger and can create a problem. But I see you've already got that one covered.

As for the e-fan we just mounted the relay and adjustible thermo to the core support between the headlight and the radiator. You will also want to mount the temp sensor up higher in the radiator on the drivers side. We tried mounting mine as low as possible on the drivers side thinking the lower you mount it the hotter the radiator would be. But apparently that thinking was wrong. I didn't feel as though the fan was running enough even though it was keeping everything the right temp. I moved the sensor up on the radiator and it started running more which made me feel better.

Thanks Wed....I did have mine mounted toward the bottom of the core.

Jim

Yeah it seems odd, you'd think since the hot water inlet is on the low drivers side that that would have the hottest area of the radiator. But for some reason it doesn't appear to be. Maybe the hot water comes in and goes all the way to the top before it actually enters the radiator, but that doesn't make sense to me. Hopefully someone who knows a little more about how these things work could explain it.

15-18 lb torque on the upper intake manifold. It was listed under the "Fuel and Exhaust" section. No torque sequence diagram though.

Originally posted by FM53
15-18 lb torque on the upper intake manifold. It was listed under the "Fuel and Exhaust" section. No torque sequence diagram though.

Start with the center two then crisscross to each corner. Hope that made sense.

That's how I did it Jason. Thanks bud.

No problem Jim. BTW how close are you to firing this beast up?
I know how I felt just before I turned the key after doing my head project. You can literally feel an electrical charge of sorts. Then when it started on the first try I hopped out and me and the wife danced and yelled on the front lawn.

I know the feeling bro. It started 3 days ago on when I started going in the forward direction. I just finished wiring everything on the e-fan except a power source to the circuit breaker. I am working on that right now. We did a dry run on the headers/exhaust yesterday and with only minimal alterations to the header flange and cat hanger, it went without a hitch. One bummer is, I don't have the flange gasket so I might have to do a temp hookup until Ford opens in the morning. JBA didn't include a gasket with the headers. So now it's just the oil, coolant, and a final check of everything and hopefully I can fire it up this morning before game time. Keeping my fingers X.

I fired it up this afternoon during half time. No runs, drips or cels but......... I broke in the cam according to the directions. The idle is noticeably rougher then before, and it will only drop below 1000 rpms when the heater is doing it's cycling thing. It seems to rattle and tick more then before from the valve train. Like noisy lifters. I'm not sure if this is just the headers exagerating the internal sounds, but it is noticeably louder. I did go up in size to 24# injectors. They could be contributing to the noise when they cycle. It is also running warmer then before. The needle use to rise just to the quarter mark but now it will go to just before the half mark. I set the fan to come on at the lowest temp setting so I will go check it again when I finish here. I got impatient wanting to fire it up so I wired the fan direct and will run it to a switched source tomorrow. I did give it a few quick throttle shots and you wouldn't believe the water that launched out of the exhaust tip all over my wifes vehicle sitting next to it. After I get the gasket installed I will take it out for a test run and see how it performs. Also, I want to check with Brian about the chip settings and see if we have that correct. I know that it could take a little time for the computer to make adjustments for all the new goodies. Let me have your feedback though guys. I'm going to try and post some pics on my www if I can remember how to do it.

Thanks,

Jim

The ticking is likely the headers making the normal engine noises a bit more pronounced. The water from the tail pipe is pretty normal.80% of what's made after the combustion process is water vapor which then condenses before exiting the tail pipe. Plus the catalytic converters also help to convert the other 20% into mostly water vapor. The increase in engine temp is normal as long as it isn't extreme. What I mean is that since you're introducing an increased amount of both air/fuel the engine temp
will go up . Also the overall compression has been increased due to the now increased amount of air/fuel being compressed. That's
a fairly 'generalized' explanation but I hope it will do. Other's here may explain it in more detail but that's pretty much it.
Other than that did she run ok? I know you're itching to take her out on a test run. Just make sure to be on a mostly open road with no cops and you should be fine.:beer:

Headers are noisy beasts, so that's probably most of your noise. Plus with the cam you've got more valve train action going now. The 24 lb injectors aren't noticeably more noisy than I remember the 19's being, at least on both of mine it's just a light ticking.

Glad you got it fired Jim, that's always a good sign. It will probably run just a little hotter than normal too until the new parts get broken in. Plus with the stock fan it was moving air even at idle, so it ran a little cooler.

Thanks Mike and Jason. It does feel and sound beefier. I'll take it on a test drive this morning after I get the flange gasket in and let you guys know.

There are some pics on page 2 of that link below.

All I can say is WOW!! That motor is super clean. The blue/yellow match things well under there. Great Job Jim.:thumbsup:

the header nosie tend to go away some of it is everything expanding and settling. the injectors souldn't make anymore nosie. I run a permacool fan and it has a higer CFMs than the factory one.

curt

What all did you swap out besided the cam? Did you get a new set of pushrods, and or rocker arms? As you probably noticed when you pulled the pushrods out when durning your removal, they don't all match. If you looked at the cups on your rocker arms, they don't all match either. Over time the tips of the pushrods get worn to confirm with the cups on the rocker arms. If you used your stock rocker arms (which is perfectly fine) it will take some time for the pushrods to "wear" into the cups. Did that make sense?

Some of noise is coming from the headers to. Just compair the thickness of the manifolds to your headers and you'll see why they transmit more noise. I know my 30lbs injectors are deffinately a very slight bit louder than the stock 19lbs units.

As for the truck running hotter it's hard to say. It deffinately shouldn't run any hotter. Did you put a new thermostat in the truck? You could have some air pockets in the cooling system. Did you let the truck run for a while with the cap off the radiator to let it work some of the bubbles out?

Thanks J. It was a little work but it spiced things up a bit. I originally wanted to go with blue but when I put the 2 next to each other, the loom looked flourescent and clashed. Oh well.

I didn't go with new rockers but I did install new rods Wed. It's been a while since I installed a set of headers but the noise is all coming back to me now. They really do exagerate, resonate, and reverbiate any internal noises. It all seems to be quieting down though with every mile I put on and each turn of the key. And Wed you were correct. And I didn't think about it 'til I went back out to the garage yesterday. PURGE the SYSTEM STUPID. Shame on me. I did set the stat down to its lowest setting for now but I will bump it up progressively until I reach a happy medium.

How does it run you say? To be honest, I have a 4x4. It's heavy, it has big tires, wheels, so I wasn't expecting to break any land speed records, nor was that the reason I did what I did. I have liked the truck from day one. And now I really like this bad boy. I can't break those big ass tires loose but it does climb to 60 in a damn hurry guys. It breathes so much better and effortlessly that it is just a pure joy to drive. If you look at my sig to see what I've done, this truck handles unbelieveably well and now that I have some power behind it, it is just plain right out fun to drive. Kudos to you 2. You know who you are. And thanks to all of you that helped me through this. I consider you my 4.0 brothers and I like the company I keep.

BTW....My wife Rose asked me if I would do this again? In a heartbeat darlin'.

It's amazing isn't it. The difference you can make when you allow the 4.0L to breathe is phenominal. I don't have a better cam in mine(yet) but even without one I could tell a big difference performance wise just with ported heads. It races to 60 mph with such gusto I often forget that I'm in a heavy 4x4.
Aren't you sighing a bit of relief now Jim? The feeling of a job well done is hard to explain in words. But I know one thing for sure. It sure feels good, doesn't it?:E

It's been a week now since I finished the work on the engine, with another week of troubleshooting something that was bothering me. As I said in my last post, you could tell right off the bat that the heads (along with the headers and cam) made a big difference in the way it moves air and breathes now, but I knew something just wasn't right. It just didn't have that "seat of the pants" feel that I had been expecting and I was concerned that I might have done something wrong when putting it back together. I got in touch with another member of this forum, and through email he has been holding my hand for the last week, not only giving me moral support but quite a few things to check out and investigate. I also confirmed my suspicions about the doggedness by bringing it over to the Ford dealership behind my house and letting the shop foreman (who is a motor head and has been following this project from the beginning) take it for a test drive. Out of the lot and a 1/4 mile down the road he looks over at me and says "it seems dead". His opinion is, either the cam timing is off, or it's running lean. He did reassure me that I more then likely had the CMP planted correctly because he didn't detect any of the symptoms of that. So we go back to the lot, sit in the truck for about 10 minutes while he gives me the 3rd degree about what I did, how I did it, and he shoots me some suggestions about things to check out. I thank him and head back home. I was pretty certain that I had installed the cam correctly (it's pretty straight up) but I did have concerns that it could possibly be that the stock timing set was machined to retard the cam timing (as even mentioned on CompCam's install instructions) But seeing I added a new MAS and larger injectors, his opinion that it is running lean seemed to coincide with what a little "Bird" was also suggesting to me. Maybe the calibration of the MAS to the injectors was off. Time to check that out.
A year ago I had (still have) plans of doing some forced air so I had purchased 2 gauges for monitoring with that purpose in mind, but never got around to installing them. One being a K&N Digital A/F monitor, and the other being a AutoMeter Electronic Boost/VAC gauge. Both are expensive units, but both have a high degree of accuracy of which I was informed by others here on the forum, as being critical. So I take a day to install them (hardest part was finding an uninterrupted power source off the ignition switch to tie into) and fire it up. The gauges work flawlessly. The vacuum is at 18-19 Hg but the a/f is moving 4 lights from 14:7.1 in either direction. Lean to Rich and back again. Weird huh. I had installed a separate O2 sensor in the collector just for the A/F so I know I am getting some pretty accurate readings from both banks. So I am thinking that the MAF is maybe bad but decide to do a check of the base timing. It took me a day to get around to that because of some other stuff that came up in the meantime, but before I start it, I decided to finish routing the wiring for the new O2 sensor. As I am running a split loom along the firewall to install it in I feel something strange dangling in back of the lower intake. I can't see it but I know by the feel of it (I broke one of the tangs off that secure it to its male counterpart on the teardown) that it is the damn electrical connector for #6 injector. Yep....just hanging there. I also know how it got pushed off. When I was routing the plug wires through the upper intake to the coil pack, (the JBA's that I installed are unbelievably long coming off that bank) one of them had snaked its way back enough to push the connector off. Damn!!! Could this be it? So I put it back on, route the damn O2 wiring, hook up the battery and fire it up. WOW!!! What a difference!! After she warms up and idles down, the A/F stays right at the optimum (14:7.1.0...is marked on the gauge) setting only flickering to the lights on either side of it. The overhead noise diminishes almost totally and does it have some throttle response now. I take it out and give it the old test run. This is a heavy 4x4 with big tires but you wouldn't believe the night and day difference now. I took my wife out for a spin and asked her what she thought. She says it launches her back in her seat and it was a little scary. Anyway, this is what I wanted to hear, and feel. I had to get back to you guys and let you know. The funny thing about it, with the exception of the lack of power, (which was still better then before the mods) some overhead noise and a little bit of a rougher idle, it didn't run as bad on 5 cylinders as I would have expected. Thanks again Walt for hanging in there and all the help you provided.

Jim

As Hannibal once said " God, I love it when a plan comes together". Glad that you finally are getting everything out of it that you should, Jim. Now, if only I could get the time to finish putting mine all together.......................


Bird

As a wise man once said to me and I quote:

"If you were closer, I'd probably be living at your house getting the truck right."


If I were closer, I'd be there in a heartbeat to help you in anyway I could.

good the hear now can you get those tires loose? what O2 are you useing the factory or the after market. I have to get a better gauge like you have.

curt

Curt,

With the size of the tires, a 5 speed automatic, a PowerTrax No-Slip, 3.73's (I would need a ratio of 4.3? to compensate) and almost 24" of tread meeting the pavement I can get them to chirp but I never expected to see smoke. It does climb to 60 mph right now though. I will be switching back over to the stock tires for the winter and I'm sure the results will be different. I'll let you know.

The K&N is a nice unit. I thought it to be a little spendy at the time, but everything that I have/had read on it claims it is one of the most accurate units out there. I used their optional O2 sensor kit so I could place the sensor in the collector and monitor the output of both banks. You can use your existing O2's but it looks like a P.I.T.A. You have to tap into the wiring harness somewhere before the O2 pigtails and then run those wires to a switch and then to the monitor. You then use the switch to change between the 2 sensors/banks. It would allow you to obtain separate readings from each bank for more accuracy, and also help narrow things down when troubleshooting. Hope this helped.

Jim

It's always the simple stuff, at least when it's not an expensive item. :E

I didn't read the problems you were having last night, but halfway through that I would have guess a MAF that was calibrated wrong. It seems there have been a lot of those lately.

Glad it was just the unplugged injector and it's running the way you want it to Jim. I bet it will continue to improve over the next month or two as well, or at least it seems like they do.

Good job man, I'd love to see it and take a ride some day.

Thanks Mike. Having the guys around for help and support sure made this enjoyable. And you always have an open invite anytime you are up this way.

Jim