Notched frame for tie rod clearance

First marke on frame where tie rod would hit.
Pic (http://xpupload.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=3abf4701-d07e-1181-5681-5e651b947b6b&size=lg)

Next remove the sway bar and tie rod ends.
Pic 2 (http://xpupload.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=2ac57c47-3c6c-5913-4bb5-198db0ff4454&size=lg)

Then partailly remove the rack. No need to disconect the lines just swing out of the way.
Pic 3 (http://xpupload.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=615b6eb0-3dd7-73a4-5d56-2dad67917ef5&size=)

Then mark and cut the ofending area, you can use a grinder with a cut off wheel, sawzall, or the method I prefer the plasma.
Pic 4 (http://xpupload.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=215d206a-67bc-6410-1f0c-4d166402b821&size=)

Next cut a peice to fit the hole make sure the fit is good the beter the fit the beter the end result.
Pic 5 (http://xpupload.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=77cf433e-4c94-1307-3d1c-6f403d7232f8&size=)

Then weld the peice in makeing sure to wled all of it even the spots that are tough to get to.
Pic 6 (http://xpupload.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=50a79fae-49bc-6885-772c-f5b5159f5ec6&size=)

Grind down all the welds smooth
Pic 7 (http://xpupload.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=20103230-3b53-6433-6957-6e0465076719&size=)

Finaly shot it with some undercoating or paint copy onto the other side and reasemble now you tie rods will live a happy life.
Pic 8 (http://xpupload.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=5f2d4577-31ad-1941-1f28-5a834c60b594&size=)

what is the rack?

stearing rack, rackand pinion or rack for short.

steering rack.
*edit* whoops. guess we posted at the same time.

looks good man thanks

I'll start on the 4-link monday probably for ya. Got the rear stripped just waiting on the link bars. Thats one hellofa big tank in that thing!

Nice job, i made it a sticky.

*edit
Altered Image, i went thru and cleaned it up a little, hope you didn't mind. After lookign at the pics and such more closely, that looks like some awesome work.

Thank you sir.

how about on an i-beam ranger?

that looks really good. the only thing that i would add is that you do not need to grind off the welds. sometimes it is better to leave the welds on so that you keep the maximum strength.
I beam ranger are just about the same as the newer ranger, it looks the same from the pics.

True you don't have to grind the welds down I just think it looks more proffesinal. I would recomend leaving the welds on if you are worried about the penetration of your welds however.
An I beam ranger would be the same. The only diffrence would be swinging the rods out of the way instead of removing the rack.

what kind of welder did you use

220 volt mig.

haha. on an i-beam ranger you have to knotch the frame like 3 inches and the rack is gona be in the way. Since I already need new tie-rod ends I am gona have someone bend them or fab up some kind of extention.

i would notch the frame not bent the rods very unsafe my shop has expence with that

thanks for the write up...
thanks for making it a sticky...