Ok, I don't really have a clue on this one. When I think about it, it makes sence but you guy's have a lot of smarts and I would really like your opinions.

I'm thinking about using a 2 link rear suspension. I'm thinking about making them out of 2x3" tubing. I was also thinking about attatching them to the frame aprox. where the driveshaft comes out of the transmission. This would lessen the amount of forward and back movement from the arc. Not sure if its better to use a panrod or Watts Linkage? Which one is better for this aplication?


Well, for you who don't know the aplication.
I'm building a show/promo vehicle. The goals for this vehicle are great handleing, can tow up to 5,000 lbs, and need to be adjustable.
I figured that I would use coil-over's with maybe an air bag for aditional spring when we tow, or I can just change the coil-over. Both are possiblites.

Well let me know guy's and thank you for any and all input

y run a 2 link if your not gonna have an ajustable suspension ie air or dro only? Y not just leave the leafs in their you can get it to handle pretty well like that plus it would tow a whole lot better

Originally posted by true_pride
The goals for this vehicle are great handleing,

Well, a 2 link will offer that, as long as you are only looking for great handling on a straight, flat surface. They aren't exactly well known for their ability to articulate.

If you don't quite understand what I'm getting at, take a U bolt or any similar shape, such as a bar with two solidly attached ends at 90deg to said bar. Fix the ends to a solid plane, so as the the flat piece at the back can move in an up and down motion, this represents the axle in a 2 link configuration. The axle is solid, the two connecting links need to be solidly attached to the axle and are allowed to pivot at the other end. Now try to lift only one end of the "axle". Two things can happen here, the first, is that the whole axle has to lift the same amount. The second is that for ONLY one end to lift, the pivot point on that end would have to break loose from wherever it was mounted to.

Now imagine that in a vehicle such as your pickup, imagine going around or corner or having only one tire go over a bump. What's going to happen is that the entire rear suspension will have to move the same amount in the same vertical direction until the point that stress overcomes the mounts and something breaks, resulting in a very dangerous situation.

A MUCH more desireable setup would be either a 3 or 4 link, where both ends of ALL the connecting links are free to pivot. This will allow one end of the axle to move (almost) independent of the other. Obviously one end of a live axle setup will never be able to move entirely independent of the other, but you can always try to make the best of it.

Once again, like I said, look into either a 3 link w/panhard, 4 link with panhard, or a combination of the two with a wishbone locator.

Stupid question, do you have a link or photo of a 3 link?

I could probably come up with one, but it's just as easy to explain. Imagine a 4 link setup without the two upper links, only the ones connecting the bottom side of the axle to the chassis. Now add a single link connecting the top of the axle to the chassis near the center of the axle, usually welded onto the tube right next to the differential housing. Coil over shocks and a panhard bar would connect same as with a 4 link.

The positive side is that it allows for very free movement of one side of the axle in relation to the other end, downside is that it is not quite as strong as a 4 link. Strength issue aside, they are not uncommon in road racing.

Originally posted by Aaron B
I could probably come up with one, but it's just as easy to explain. Imagine a 4 link setup without the two upper links, only the ones connecting the bottom side of the axle to the chassis. Now add a single link connecting the top of the axle to the chassis near the center of the axle, usually welded onto the tube right next to the differential housing. Coil over shocks and a panhard bar would connect same as with a 4 link.

The positive side is that it allows for very free movement of one side of the axle in relation to the other end, downside is that it is not quite as strong as a 4 link. Strength issue aside, they are not uncommon in road racing.

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=115706
Is this what your talking about?

Originally posted by true_pride
http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=115706
Is this what your talking about?

If you read, it says at the very top that that is a wishbone 4 link.

Well, technically, that's not a 3 link or a 4 link, although it could be considered as either depending on how you look at it. Yes, that is a very good example of a wishbone locator though. Basically, the triangulation keeps the axle from moving side to side eliminating the need for a panhard bar. Seems to me, though, that I've only seen them installed the opposite direction of that shown, connecting to the axle at two points and the chassis at one.

*edit

Here's a link that should give you an idea of how a 3 link is set up. For a more detailed view click the link on the page that takes you to the installation instructions.

http://www.ffcobra.com/FAQ/3link.html

Aaron,

Thank you. There is alot of really good info on that page. I don't know if I get it 100%, but I'm still reading and trying to understand.