**TIPS***
1) Get some Explorer U-bolts from a dealership before you start the swap, ranger ones will not fit
2) Get some shock mounts welded on axle before hand, or you can use 2 passenger side explorer mounts, (they are the plates that attatch to the leafs that have the shock mount on them)
3) Have plenty of penetrating oil and a buddy on hand

START: this is how it looks
before the swap
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/375000-375999/375939_53_full.jpg

First remove tail lites, and gas neck from bed, then remove bed
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/375000-375999/375939_54_full.jpg

Jack up the truck so that the rear wheels are barely off the ground, place stands under the frame, remove wheels(it was easier for us to work with them removed)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/375000-375999/375939_55_full.jpg

Disconnect brake lines from axle, shocks, ubolts,unbolt the drive shaft from rear end, and sway bar if you have one

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/375000-375999/375939_56_full.jpg

Place stands under the back side of the leafs springs to support them, then undo the rear leaf bolts
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/375000-375999/375939_57_full.jpg


Expo 8.8 Vs. Ranger 8.8, you cant tell but the explorer '96 rear is 1.5 inches wider then my '94 rear

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/375000-375999/375939_58_full.jpg"

Place a jack under the axle, now remove the jack stands under the rear of the leafs, and slowly let the jack down to lower the axle, you should now be able to wheel the axle out of there, ( it has been said that if you reattach the wheels that you can just roll the axle out, we just pulled it on the jack)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/375000-375999/375939_59_full.jpg

Installing new axle becomes reverse of the tear down, we used a tranny jack to place the new rear end on, it was easier to manuever then by hand alone
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/375000-375999/375939_60_full.jpg"

Get the axle in the air to about the same height the last one was at
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/375000-375999/375939_61_full.jpg

You can now put it on jack stands to support it

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/375000-375999/375939_62_full.jpg

Now you can pull the leafs springs back up and bolt them back into place, now you just have to make sure the axle perches are centerd on the leafs and the leaf pins are in the perch holes

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/375000-375999/375939_63_full.jpg
About this time you can get ready to re-install the drive shaft to help keep the front of the pumpkin from wanting to rotate down, here is just a shot to show how the axle sits

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/375000-375999/375939_64_full.jpg

Now you can reattach everything, start with the ubolts first so you get the axle secured, then follow with the brake lines, shocks and sway bar

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/375000-375999/375939_65_full.jpg"

So you installed it like you would a ranger w/ a flip kit? Also, did you narrow the axle at all, or leave it alone b/c of the stang rims?

Originally posted by DangerRanger
mine was 1.5 in wider overall. 3/4 in on each side

hmm, maybe i was wrong, I cant remember if i messured, or if i just went by what i was told.

Originally posted by Lone_Ranger01
So how much time did this take?

well, it should have taken about 2-4 hrs, but we had to run for parts 3 different times, and so it took us about 8 hrs, but thats with breakfast, lunch, and trips all combined


Originally posted by ucmeflyby
Do you have any pics of the shock mounts after you finished?

actually no, he ran withough shocks for awhile. He did buy some axle shock mounts from suicidedoors and had them welded on, but i haven't been around to take pictures of that

The older model Ex rears are 3" wider while the newer model ones are only an 1.5" wider.

Originally posted by Tate
One thing I've noticed everybody does when fliping axles and swapping them is they always have them on jackstands and then have to lug them away. When me and my dad lowered my truck, we left the wheels on, and had 2 jack stands at the back of the cab. If you leave the wheels on the rear end before you remove it, just disconnect everything and roll it out. Thats just my 2 cents.

wow, didnt even think of that one....

I'll have to remember it when we do mine

Originally posted by 99 Supercab
The older model Ex rears are 3" wider while the newer model ones are only an 1.5" wider.

no, you got it backwards, Gen I and Gen II rangers axles were narrower then Gen III and IV, so the Explorer axles are .75 inches wider on each side for Gen III and up, while the Xpo axle is 1.5 inches wider on each side then the Gen I and II's, (atleast for 95 and up Explorer Axles)

Originally posted by danger94ranger
no, you got it backwards, Gen I and Gen II rangers axles were narrower then Gen III and IV, so the Explorer axles are .75 inches wider on each side for Gen III and up, while the Xpo axle is 1.5 inches wider on each side then the Gen I and II's, (atleast for 95 and up Explorer Axles)

Thats funny, the 99 Explorer axle I installed was only 1.5" wider than the axle I pulled out on my 99 Ranger. Thats .75" wider on each side.

Originally posted by 99 Supercab
Thats funny, the 99 Explorer axle I installed was only 1.5" wider than the axle I pulled out on my 99 Ranger. Thats .75" wider on each side.

Right.

The Explorer rears are all the same width.

The 83-88 Ranger rears are 3" narrower than the Explorer rear, 1.5" per side. They are also 1.5" narrower than the 89-04 Ranger rears, .75" per side.

The 89-04 Ranger rears are 1.5" narrower than the Explorer rear, .75" per side.

So, from narrowest to widest, in 3/4" (per side) steps, they go
83-88 Ranger + .75" per side = 89-04 Ranger
89-04 Ranger + .75" per side = Explorer

So 99 Supercab and danger94Ranger are both right.

Originally posted by scootr2200
Has anybody done this swap to a 4x4?

Mickey

if you were to try then you would have to either run a flip kit reversed to put the axle back under the leafs, or you would have to grind off the old leaf perches and weld on new ones... but it would work just the same.

Originally posted by danger94ranger
no, you got it backwards, Gen I and Gen II rangers axles were narrower then Gen III and IV, so the Explorer axles are .75 inches wider on each side for Gen III and up, while the Xpo axle is 1.5 inches wider on each side then the Gen I and II's, (atleast for 95 and up Explorer Axles)

ok, yah in my original post there i meant that all that information to be in terms of the Ranger axle being either 1.5 or .75 inches smaller on either side..... sorry for confusion, it made sense in my head

So how much has everyone paid for their axle? Im really wanting to do this swap on my ranger, so I can get rid of my 7.5 axle.

got mine for 300 from Ben L

you da man Ben :E

Originally posted by danger94ranger
if you were to try then you would have to either run a flip kit reversed to put the axle back under the leafs, or you would have to grind off the old leaf perches and weld on new ones... but it would work just the same.

The over and under spring pads are not mutually exclusive. My Explorer axle currently has both, in case I eventually decide to flip it for some unknown reason.

mine just has the regular pads like on the ranger, so if i wanted to flip it id have to use a flip kit or weld on new pads

Originally posted by scootr2200
Has anybody done this swap to a 4x4?

Mickey


if i would do it to a 4x4, or anything thats ment to be stock hiehgt, id swap for the explorer leafs too

Originally posted by Adam Baker
So how much has everyone paid for their axle? Im really wanting to do this swap on my ranger, so I can get rid of my 7.5 axle.

When I was looking at doing this, the yards I talked to wanted $1100 CDN. So thats why I'm going a 9", which I paid $600 for, but come with a running truck attached to it.

I have an Explorer axle sitting in the garage waiting to be installed whenever I get the nuts to go through with it. ;)

My thoughts on the shock mounts are to run two driver's side (it may be passenger side, I have to check) Explorer shock mounts (if you are going to stick with the Explorer spring-under configuration) to approximate the Ranger shock mounting locations of one shock forward and one shock aft of the axle (instead of the Explorer, which runs both shocks aft of the axle)

I'm in a bit of a fix with my truck because I used Belltech 4" drop hangers on the leaf springs, and I still have the spring-over-axle configuration so I'll have to get perches and shock mounts welded on before I can go through with my swap... If I try to mount the axle over the leafs that will leave me with about 8" of static drop on the back, which is way too much for my liking, especially when paired up with the 3" drop I-beams. ;)

Originally posted by Adam Baker
So how much has everyone paid for their axle? Im really wanting to do this swap on my ranger, so I can get rid of my 7.5 axle.

Dude you need to come down to the junkyard down here. There are 4 or 5 '96-up Explorer axles sitting under trucks ripe for the picking... I'm just too lazy to grab them all, and they don't sell too fast.

i paid 100$ for mine, that included the pulling fee for the junkyard, the place i got it from just has really good deals on junkyard stuff

Originally posted by Ben L
I do, but I had to grind the **** out of them to get the rivets out. We tried cutting an "X" in the rivets on both sides, then an air hammer but the rivets would not budge. The truck had something like 3,500 miles on it at the time so it wasn't rust. :nixweiss: Anyways, I had to grind the rivets down flush with the hangers and drive them through, the hangers got a bit nicked up and worn down around the rivet holes so I don't feel safe just putting them back on the truck. I guess if I get off my ass and borrow a welder I could weld on some strips of 1/4" steel reinforcing strips, since I'm not going to find spare hangers just laying around in the junkyard that are easy to get to. ;)

yeah man, do it, i was so excited afeter i got off my ass and did it... all i had to get was brake pads and rear end gear oil...

took me like 3 months to do it :E

Originally posted by fordrngr
So if I were to do this on my '99 and I wanted to keep it close to stock height what would I have to do? I have a free 8.8 from a '95 Explorer. Is there anything special that I need to get from the Explorer? I plan on doing this on Wednesday night or Saturday so a quick responce would be nice. Thanks in advance.


well, to keep a stock height (give or take), install the explorer axle with a set of explorer leafs, explorer leafs raise the truck up, but since the axle is still over the leaf, it will bring it to around stock height...


or you have to cut off the leaf spring perches and reweld them to the top so the explorer axle can sit under the leaf (like a ranger) and you can use your stock leafs with that

Originally posted by fordrngr
So it would just be a "simple" bolt in? Will I need to weld anything or not?


well, which do you want to do? use stock ranger leafs with an explorer axle?


or explorer leafs and axle?

Originally posted by fordrngr
Explorer leafs and axle. I need to stay near stock height so my parents and my g/f don't find out immediately.


nice....


the there is no welding involved to install the axle, however you might still need shock mounts installed (if you supply the mounts a local muffler shop could do it for 20bucks) my friend ran without rear shocks for a week or so, and it was just bouncer w/o shocks, so it shouldnt kill you to run w/o for awhile

Originally posted by Adam Baker
I thought that to move the leaf spring mounts, they had to be welded in place?

yes they do, but if you use explorer leafs, you can keep the perchs where they are and run the explorer axle over the leaf

yah i ran for about 2 weeks without shocks, it was bouncy as hell, no traction, and wheel hop like a motha, get them on ASAP

Will that result in a drop at all? When I finally do my axle, I dont want to drop it at all, b/c my driveshaft will be hitting the cab if I drop it at all. That, and I dont have hte money to buy the components to drop the front.

Originally posted by Gay-Briel
yes they do, but if you use explorer leafs, you can keep the perchs where they are and run the explorer axle over the leaf

Originally posted by 99 Supercab
if I`m not mistaken, that 95 axle won`t work. You need a 97-up axle cause your 99 has the RABS sensor in the pumpkin. That 95 doesn`t.

From VMR (http://www.vmrintl.com/Usedcars/Car%20%20Reviews/Ford%20Explorer.htm):
... Initially, anti-lock control resided solely on the rear drum brakes. A proper 4-wheel ABS system with four-wheel disc brakes had to wait until 1993.

So a 95 should definitely have the RABS sensor. As a matter of fact, unless I'm mistaken, the Explorer has always had RABS available, if not standard, so any Explorer axle should have the sensor port if not the sensor...

Originally posted by Adam Baker
Will that result in a drop at all? When I finally do my axle, I dont want to drop it at all, b/c my driveshaft will be hitting the cab if I drop it at all. That, and I dont have hte money to buy the components to drop the front.


ok, heres how it goes, if you install explorer leafs with a ranger axle under them, it will lift your rear up 2 or 3inchs, so if you use the explorer leafs and a explorer axle (over the leafs) it should keep it close to stock height, might be an inch or 2 off

Originally posted by 99 Supercab
if I`m not mistaken, that 95 axle won`t work. You need a 97-up axle cause your 99 has the RABS sensor in the pumpkin. That 95 doesn`t.

mine is out of a 96, with 98 upgrade brakes, well the brand new brakes came off a 98, so all that is interchangeable, plus the RABS sensor is on the top of the pumpkin on mine too, plus i think when they group the axles they label them as 95 to present axles, becouse they had the ABS, plus disk brakes etc.

If the rear end drops significantly after installing the Explorer axles and leafs in the Explorer spring-under configuration, you can always buy lifting shackles for the rear to lift the rear of the truck back up. Be prepared to shim the rear end to maintain the proper pinion angle. This is what I plan to do if I use the spring-under configuration and my Belltech drop hangers and it drops another 2-3"...

i had to use 4 degree shims.

there wasnt really any vibrations or problems, but i didnt like the pinion angle at all:nuts:

Ive never heard about using the sploder leafs to keep the rear end from dropping. Im not saying that your lieing, trust me, but do you have anything to back that up? If thats true, then I will definatly do it that way, instead of moving the spring perches. Ive been told that using the sploder leafs tend to help improve the ride quality, so I had thought about going that way anyway.

Originally posted by Adam Baker
Ive never heard about using the sploder leafs to keep the rear end from dropping. Im not saying that your lieing, trust me, but do you have anything to back that up? If thats true, then I will definatly do it that way, instead of moving the spring perches. Ive been told that using the sploder leafs tend to help improve the ride quality, so I had thought about going that way anyway.

well, think about this, an explorer sits about hte same rear end hieght as the ranger. and its axle is over the leafs while the ranger is under.

Gerry put an explorer leaf on his DragTruck (with stock ranger axle ) and it lifted the rear, so if you then install the explorer axle it will bring it back down...


Now, I myself have not done it, but it does seem like the way to go

Yea, that would make sense. If/when I get the sploder axle, I'll definately give this a try, and let everyone know. If this is true, it will make installing the sploder axle so much easier.

Originally posted by Gay-Briel
well, think about this, an explorer sits about hte same rear end hieght as the ranger. and its axle is over the leafs while the ranger is under.

Gerry put an explorer leaf on his DragTruck (with stock ranger axle ) and it lifted the rear, so if you then install the explorer axle it will bring it back down...


Now, I myself have not done it, but it does seem like the way to go

OK, with all this going back and forth. What year explorer would fit my 98???? And how to know if it is a L/S diff???? And gears?
THANKS
racenut:nuts:

definatley a 95+ will fit, the little tag on the rear cover of the pumpkin will tell you the gear and if it has LS

What years came with disk brakes? If i use the explores leafs what will that do
I.e. less sway, more load capabillity, will they mount the same way, do the make better bushings for them insted of rubber?
What would the axle code be for limited slip? Does it still have drum brakes or does the disk take the place of that? The brake cable what is needed, any way to tell if the rear end is no good or if it is reliable, such as taking the cover off and looking at the gears ex... how about the sway bar if using the leafs off of the explorer will they work? And can the shocks be mounted out side the rail like on the new f-150 for better ride? And lastly should a 4wheel aliment be done to be sire every thing is square?

my biggest question is, if everyone is getting these things from the j/y, what are you doing about the built up rust on the rotors? i've found a rear end for 350 but it has no calipers. everyone around here wants between 350 and 500 for the entire exploder 8.8 with discs. that reasonable? the reason i ask is because when i 4-link the truck i want to do it with the 8.8 the first time and not have to reweld anything later on down the road

Originally posted by rangerbrown
What years came with disk brakes?

95+

Originally posted by dustinscott80
my biggest question is, if everyone is getting these things from the j/y, what are you doing about the built up rust on the rotors?

rust comes off the first time you turn them with pads in the rotorl, its just surface rust

that or you can have the rotors turned...

i would have them turned any way or replaced does any one make sloted or drilled rotors for the rear if i do this i plan or replacing the calapers, lines,oil of coruse, thing else other than the bushings in the leafs?

from what i was told here in town there is a guy that own the junk yard and will sell any thing just to get money no mater what the price so i plan on looking in to it
what would the code be for 3.73 gears and limited slip on the diff

hmmm.... it will look somithing like

### 88##
373 LS ###

or somthing like that, those numbers are easily identifiable when lookin at the tag, those # signs represent other numbers but i dont recall what they meant

on the LS 3.73 8.8 we just did the tag read like

XXXX88XXXX
XX3L73XXXX

What sway bar is going to work with the explorer rearend? Might as well do it all while I am there.

Originally posted by CruzNlife1

XXXX88XXXX
XX3L73XXXX


ehhh, i was close

Originally posted by Swift
What sway bar is going to work with the explorer rearend? Might as well do it all while I am there.

explorer sports came with a sway bar that bolts up to the holes in your frame.

did you switch gear ratio's??? How did you correct the speedo. I just did this swap with a '96 Explorer 8.8 with 4.10's and limited slip into a 2003 Mazda B2300 reg cab short bed 2wd. and the truck had a 3.73 open 7.5" and now the speedo reads 10mph fast..

i just bought a rear end with 3.73's, so no problem for me

What about on a Edge? Would it just be easier to swap the perches and everything?

good question, youd have to take measurements but im assuming that the rear mounts are the same width apart... are you lookin to use this to lower or lift your setup?

For now I want to maintain the same ride height. The Axle is the same as any other ranger axle, it just has a 3" lift block on it.

well to use the expo rear your gonna have to either use a flip kit, or have the perches re welded on the axle...., then it should be no problem given that everything else is the same

I don't think I saw anything mentioned in the post but I had a question concerning any issues with proportioning valve compatibility or RABS/ABS systems???? (Ooooops...just saw page 2 regarding RABS)

Having disk brakes front and rear, is the prop valve eliminated???

Jay in MA

i think i stated somewhere in here that the proportioning valve will work fine, if you wanted you could swap it out to the exploreer's, my rear end seems to be real grabby in like gravel or slick conditions, but nothing to worry bout

ok i want to install the standard DJM 3/4 kit on my 97 reg cab ranger, but do the 8.8 explorer rear end swap. when i install the DJM kit what will i need extra? will my truck still sit the same with the rear end swap and the DJM kit or would the back be higher/lower than normal? besides having disk brakes on the rear end what is the point to having the 8.8 rear end? i have the 2.3 liter four banger and 5spd tranny, 2wd, what affects would i have with this swap and the stockengine/tranny combo? i plan on getting the svo 2.3 liter turbo swap and t-5 tranny soon if all goes well , but you know how that goes. thanks for the replies and help.

half of what you asked has been covered in this post already.

the way the expo rear mounts yeilds the same drop as the DJM flip kit, give or take .5 inch... meaning if you do the swap, ditch the flip kit...

8.8 is stronger then your 7.5, readily found with LS, and since you plan to swap engines it comes in handy

with the stock engine tranny you will have no differences, though to have the right speed readings make sure you find the same rear gearing....

again, all this was already covered in here

ok, I know this is a sticky, so maybe someone will chime in for my ?. I am wanting to do this swap, but when I do it, I'd like to narrow the rear end a little to add the deep dish look with the new rims. how much $ am I looking at and is it a easy job for a shop to tackle?

thanks!

D

Its gonna vary from shop to shop, depending on labour, materials and quality. Find some shops that will do it locallay and ask them for a quote.

your edge already has an 8.8

where do you find the code on the rearend?

should be on a tag bolted on the cover

your edge already has an 8.8

but its a 28spine and the explorer is a 31 spine

The pictures on the first page only show as red Xs. Is it the board or is it my computer?
jim

probly the board, go to my cardomain site, i think page 6 is the write up, you can get the pics there

Has anyone swapped these using the entire assembly (Expo rear, springs and shock mounts to a Ranger)? I have everything, just can't afford to have either vehicle down for more than a day.

On "another site" they mention swapping the Master Cylinder to fix the break grabbing. Just something to remember if you need to change masters...

I went to your web page and I got the info i needed. thanks alot.
jim

Has anyone swapped these using the entire assembly (Expo rear, springs and shock mounts to a Ranger)? I have everything, just can't afford to have either vehicle down for more than a day.

On "another site" they mention swapping the Master Cylinder to fix the break grabbing. Just something to remember if you need to change masters...

what master cylinder do they swap to?

Tom

the explorer master cylinder if you need too, could just install a proportioning valve in the rear and not mess with the whole master cylinder at all

the explorer master cylinder if you need too, could just install a proportioning valve in the rear and not mess with the whole master cylinder at all


oh well thats infinantly easier. i must have misunderstood it sounded like the rears were getting too much pressure on a constant basis. not, not enough.

Thanks
Tom

Can someone repost the pics or edit the first one to include the pics so I can see the install?

I really want to do this.

Can someone repost the pics or edit the first one to include the pics so I can see the install?

I really want to do this.

visit my webpage, its on there too

oh well thats infinantly easier. i must have misunderstood it sounded like the rears were getting too much pressure on a constant basis. not, not enough.

Thanks
Tom

truthfully it really doesnt matter,.. and i believe your still confused, a proportioning valve does not increase pressure to the breaks it decreases pressure, since disk brakes take less pressure to grab then you want to lower the pressure when you swap rear ends, you can get adjustable valves and set it to your own likeings, with a Explorer master cylinder however your stuck with that line pressure that the expo comes with stock, which can either be just right for you or uncomfortable (depends on how you want your brakes to feel)

Cool thanks. I'll be doing this soon - probably while I'm bagging it.

How was it with the pinion angle? Did it correct itself automatically, or did you need to add shims?

please dont laugh or shoot me but could someone explain why you would do this?

please dont laugh or shoot me but could someone explain why you would do this?

It's good way to get disc brakes in the rear (which look really nice through big wheels) and you get a bigger rear end (for rangers like mine that only have the 7.5" rear) which will allow more power to be handles by the axle. There are some other reasons, but those are the ones I like that I know of.

^ that's basically it. now if i can just figure out if you always have to reweld the shock mounts, and locate a rear end, i'll do it!

you don't have to reweld the shock mounts. you can use the explorer style mounts. either get two of the same side, or get a driver and passenger side and move the upper mount on one side.

are the axle codes the same for explorers? i.e. what vehicles will have the "F6" axle(locking 3.73)?

For axle codes, check this link

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/tech/drivetrain/axlegear.shtml

Any advise for hooking up the e-brake, and where do I get this proportion valve.

the e-brake should hook right into your stock e-brake cable. mine did. didnt' have to adjust it or anything. it's kinda hard, there is a hole on the e-brake pedal that you can put a screwdriver in while you are pulling on the cable under the truck. that will give you some slack.
as for the proportioning valve, i didnt' change anything and mine work great. same master cylinder, etc.

I found a 96 explorer axle at the j/y that had the rotors missing. the calipers were attached, but It had a drum brake setup on it as well. there was no drum just all of the pads and springs. Has anyone ever seen this before?

Joe

that drum is the inside parking brake, its not part of the "disk brake" when operating, its only the parking brake setup

rotors are cheap from advanced or autozoo

If I was to put this in a 4x4 ranger, would using the stock suspension in my truck cause the rear of my truck to be dropped? I'm looking for a lift if possible, and will gladly swap the suspension over as well.

if you use the stock ranger leafs, and mount the explorer axle on top of the ranger leafs then yes it will drop the rear end, swapping in the Expo leafs is simple and it will maintain the same ride height

Will using the explorer leafs also eliminate the need to fabricate shock mounts? Or does the wider stance of the explorer leave the mounts in a different location compared to where they would be on the ranger?

the explorer shocks mount to the plate that the u-bolts go through. you can get the expo plates, but get like two of the same side to keep your current shock locations.

here is how explorers are mounted. i paid like $20 a side for those plates from ford.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d161/dropped_yellow_ranger/truck%20n%20bike/PICT2557.jpg

i swapped the passenger side to the back of the axle, just to be different.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d161/dropped_yellow_ranger/truck%20n%20bike/PICT2560.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d161/dropped_yellow_ranger/truck%20n%20bike/PICT2559.jpg

I actually took both the stock expo shock mounts and used them

the driverside one mounted and worked like normal, the one on the passenger side, if you look down on it from above i rotated 90*, it made the shock mount face forward then

the ubolt holes on the plates are not perfectly square but are close enough, it takes a little squeezing of the ubolts to fit inot the holes but i was able to squeeze them by hand enough to get them in, then tightened it down like normal and bolted the shocks up no problems

ok, i know its been said many times, many ways...

Gen 1 83-88 & Gen 2 89-92 ranger rears are 1.5 inches shorter than Gen 3 93-97 & Gen 4 98-04 ranger rears.

Gen 3/4 ranger rears are 1.5 inches shorter than the 95-2001explorer 8.8 rears.

So that would make my 92 ranger rear 3" shorter than the 95-2001 explorer 8.8? Right?

I am about to have mine cut down and need some help!

Thanks!

ok, i know its been said many times, many ways...

Gen 1 83-88 & Gen 2 89-92 ranger rears are 1.5 inches shorter than Gen 3 93-97 & Gen 4 98-04 ranger rears.

Gen 3/4 ranger rears are 1.5 inches shorter than the 95-2001explorer 8.8 rears.

So that would make my 92 ranger rear 3" shorter than the 95-2001 explorer 8.8? Right?

I am about to have mine cut down and need some help!

Thanks!


ehh - hmmm - anyone?:wiggle:

Red, you're correct, sorry i missed this thread earlier.

Red, you're correct, sorry i missed this thread earlier.

Thanks, I was thinking I was reading it right. But then I would see a misinformed posted and go...wha?

I am about to take it to our local speed shop and have it cut down. My 20's rub the inner part of the fender and I'm going to have them cut it down an extra 1.5.

Thanks again!

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m168/sslamed/ranger/IMAG0061.jpg
if this thread is still alive i have a question... i pulled a 8.8 4.10 w/ disc's and limited slip out of a 01 exp today. im gonna get some dream beams and i have shock tabs from suicidedoors.com left over from one of my past trucks i've bagged.. i havnt measured anything yet but will my leafs on my 94 splash line up with the perches on the exp axle then i just have to get some u bolts made and hook up the brakes and d-shaft? someone told me i have to swap out master cylinders because of going from drunms to discs... also will the d-shaft bolt directly up? if not i cut the exp shaft so i can just get a new one made. Thanks!!

leafs will work no problems
drive shaft will hook up no problems
master cylinder is not needed, maybe a proportioning valve though if you feel the need

94splash40, the axle will fit fine with splash leafs. I did the swap on my 93 splash.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2319000-2319999/2319721_38_full.jpg

Just did the swap to my 96, works great. Just a note though the stock ranger rims do not fit over the disc brakes from the explorer.

ha ha.. I need the narrower rearend. I have a '99 Explorer rearend and need it narrowed 3". But want to retain the rear disc. I also need 3.73 gear or 4.10. I currently have this in a '91 Explorer. fixing to 4 link it and only want to do this once. So if i get a 82-92 rearend I will be ok???? Need to know what to look for as for years and only in rangers???

I believe you could get a Ranger FX4 LII rear end and use it racinjason. The 02+ are a 31 spline rear end, and all the disk brake brackets and such will bolt right over, and the rear end is "ranger wide" so it should be 1.5" narrower for you, this may work but it's not 3" narrower then what you have already.

well I need it atleast 3" narrower than what I have...

Just did the swap to my 96, works great. Just a note though the stock ranger rims do not fit over the disc brakes from the explorer.
question. on the door it says my truck should have came with 14's.. i have 15's.. what size rim what is the smallest rim that will fit? 16?

Just did the swap to my 96, works great. Just a note though the stock ranger rims do not fit over the disc brakes from the explorer.



yes they do. and i've been driving on my stock 14's for over 5k

yes they do. and i've been driving on my stock 14's for over 5k

No they won't. My 94 14" deer hoove rims would not fit over the caliper. Atleast a 15" rim, or 14" rim with a slighly different inside rim design and backspace would be required.

Do you have the explorer rear with drums or disks?

Here are some pictures of my 2000 Ranger 2wd with a 1998 Explorer 8.8.

It's currently sitting on the Ranger shackles, but I'm getting my Explorer shackles' ears trimmed to work with the Ranger hangers. This will fix the pinion angle, and will raise the back end up to proper height. Right now I've got about a 2" drop with the Explorer leafs in the stock under-axle configuration. If the shackles don't correct the drop, I will flip the rear and re-design the shock absorber mounts.

Before clean-up:
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b242/Needforspeed3685/Motor%20Swap/IMG_4846.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b242/Needforspeed3685/Motor%20Swap/IMG_4858.jpg

After 2 hours of grinding, and 3 coats of paint on fresh, bare metal:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b242/Needforspeed3685/Motor%20Swap/IMG_4875.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b242/Needforspeed3685/Motor%20Swap/IMG_4876.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b242/Needforspeed3685/Motor%20Swap/IMG_4873.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b242/Needforspeed3685/Motor%20Swap/IMG_4874.jpg

Does anyone know the diameter of the 8.8 tube? I need it to know what size spring perches to get. Or does anyone have a part number for spring perches?

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=91&products_id=423

well, to keep a stock height (give or take), install the explorer axle with a set of explorer leafs, explorer leafs raise the truck up, but since the axle is still over the leaf, it will bring it to around stock height...


or you have to cut off the leaf spring perches and reweld them to the top so the explorer axle can sit under the leaf (like a ranger) and you can use your stock leafs with that


i just finished installing my explorer axle with my explorer leafs and the truck is 5 inches lower now. I thought this was supposed to bring it to stock ride height? Does anyone have any pictures of the explorer axle and explorer leafs setup? My truck is riding extremely rough and im lookin at the sky now with the front end stock and the rear slammed. thank you

Does it matter if the leafs came out of an explorer sport? Any ideas or any help here?

Did you mount the leafs on top of the axel like the stock setup or under?

Rather than start a new thread, I thought I would bring this back from the dead.
I am going to put an explorer 8.8 under my 2000 4x4 ranger. I am worried about the brakes. I have heard that the ranger sends line pressure to the rear before the front because drums take longer to engage. So apparently when the explorer discs are put in the rear grabs first. I dont like the sound of this. Others tell me that it works fine. Can anyone confirm. If I wanted it to engage properly what would I need off the explorer? The explorer and ranger have the same part number for the master cylinder. I see no prop valve on the explorer, so I assume it is the ABS computer that is the difference. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

the expo rear that i yanked from the yard has a decent amount of the e-brake cable but none of the other lines...what brake lines are needed? i really need to get this expo rear in, the 4.30's i have now are killing my mpg and 1/4 mile times now that i am lowered :(

Rather than start a new thread, I thought I would bring this back from the dead.
I am going to put an explorer 8.8 under my 2000 4x4 ranger. I am worried about the brakes. I have heard that the ranger sends line pressure to the rear before the front because drums take longer to engage. So apparently when the explorer discs are put in the rear grabs first. I dont like the sound of this. Others tell me that it works fine. Can anyone confirm. If I wanted it to engage properly what would I need off the explorer? The explorer and ranger have the same part number for the master cylinder. I see no prop valve on the explorer, so I assume it is the ABS computer that is the difference. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I bolted mine in and hooked everything up. didnt change a thing...i can slam on mine and the abs kicks in fine....you will be fine. the braking is 100 times better...stops on a dime...

the expo rear that i yanked from the yard has a decent amount of the e-brake cable but none of the other lines...what brake lines are needed? i really need to get this expo rear in, the 4.30's i have now are killing my mpg and 1/4 mile times now that i am lowered :(


As is the hard brake lines? the ones off the one in it now MAY work...im not sure how they route....i disconnected mine at the frame connection...

the ends on the ranger and explorer are diiferent looking, but wasnt sure if they would match up. i will have to take a look in the JY and see if i can find any of the hardlines. i reeeeaaaaallly need this thing in, like NOW! lol

so the frame connection area is the same/similar enough to use from the ranger and explorer? i havent looked for a frame connection on either yet since i wasnt sure there was one back there. about how far up is it?

the ends on the ranger and explorer are diiferent looking, but wasnt sure if they would match up. i will have to take a look in the JY and see if i can find any of the hardlines. i reeeeaaaaallly need this thing in, like NOW! lol

so the frame connection area is the same/similar enough to use from the ranger and explorer? i havent looked for a frame connection on either yet since i wasnt sure there was one back there. about how far up is it?

That would be you best bet is to yank the eard lines from the JY. There is a spliter on the pumkin and i think(truck is not here at the house to look) there is a rubber line going from there up to a connection thats on a bracket attached to the drivers side bumpstop...disconnect it there and its a direct swap to the ranger..:naughty:

yeah i went to the yard today and there were several new expos to pick from, all of the old ones had no lines :(. well i got everything needed and also got an extra set of calipers for free! they are in much better shape than the other set so they are being used. i have everything bolted onto the expo rear including the new rotors and new pads, the only things i am waiting for now is getting the damn expo yoke(?) off, it is on the pinion pretty damn good and its soaking in some pb blaster to help some but even with my biggest convincing bar didnt budge it at the yard :(. it may need a bit of heat who knows. my goal is next saturday after work it should be in *crosses fingers*. i will try the bolts in the morning and if they come loose i will attempt tomorrow.

thanks for the help :E :cheers: with the addition of this rear and getting rid of the insanely steep 4.30's and also the addition of my sexy chrome slapper bars i got coming in, i should def hit the 14's :rocking: :burnout:

I bolted mine in and hooked everything up. didnt change a thing...i can slam on mine and the abs kicks in fine....you will be fine. the braking is 100 times better...stops on a dime...


I think you are relying on the ABS. The rear grabs first and then the ABS modulates it while the front catches up. This would be fine except for some reason, since I got my lockers the ABS has been real screwy and I am trying to find a way to get it working without relying on the ABS

yeah i went to the yard today and there were several new expos to pick from, all of the old ones had no lines :(. well i got everything needed and also got an extra set of calipers for free! they are in much better shape than the other set so they are being used. i have everything bolted onto the expo rear including the new rotors and new pads, the only things i am waiting for now is getting the damn expo yoke(?) off, it is on the pinion pretty damn good and its soaking in some pb blaster to help some but even with my biggest convincing bar didnt budge it at the yard :(. it may need a bit of heat who knows. my goal is next saturday after work it should be in *crosses fingers*. i will try the bolts in the morning and if they come loose i will attempt tomorrow.

thanks for the help :E :cheers: with the addition of this rear and getting rid of the insanely steep 4.30's and also the addition of my sexy chrome slapper bars i got coming in, i should def hit the 14's :rocking: :burnout:

Sweet, yeah the 12mm 12 point bolts on the yoke are really tight....the pbblaster will def help...they will be tight but they will come.....not sure of the torque to put it back on.....if youre in the middle of it and have a ? give me a call and ill help if i can 7065278508.....the slappers should help alot...thse are actually on my to do list next...i need em bad....even w/ my lil 4 cyl....i love to turn em wen it rains...lol...

im not sure of the torque for them to be put back either lol. ive taken them off mine a few times before, with the different problems ive had to fix, i usually just tighten them as much as possible lol. the slappers i got from summit for 54 shipped, they are the universal ones though, but should work. if i have any problems i will call you up, thanks!

Ok, I'm a little confused by the multiple posts re: location of axle above/below springs, shocks fore/aft, and need to weld shock mounts. Right now I have a '99 2wheel drive Ranger, with a 2/3 drop on it using a flip kit... so my axle is already above the springs and my shocks are 1 fore, 1 aft...

If I am reading this thread correctly it's saying that:

1.) If I get the Explorer axle and springs and install the Explorer axle above the springs - then my ride would drop about 2", in which case I don't need the flip kit anymore.

2.) Although shock mounts on the Ranger are welded to the axle, the shock mounts on the Explorer connect to the U-Bolt plate that connects the springs to the axle... which means that nothing needs to be welded, I just use regular Explorer shocks and everything should bolt up without any fabrication needed.

In other words, get the Explorer rear end, springs, and shocks, and everything will bolt right up?

Correct?

not quite. you dont' need to get the expo shocks. ranger shocks work. the expo has an eyelet on one end, and a threaded rod on the other, where as rangers have eyelets on both ends. as for the springs, i never got the springs. i'm still using ranger springs. with ranger springs and the expo rear, i yielded around 4-5" drop.

im not really sure i believe that whole part about explorer leafs giving lift/not lowering as much. i have explorer leafs in mine as well as the flip kit (had the explorer leafs while at stock height) and i gained 0 lift and my drop is just as low as any other flip kitted ranger lol. my leafs were off a 98 EB 4dr 4wd explorer so they "should" have been the ones creating the most lift.

as far as the shocks, use your ranger shocks like stated above. but when you are pulling the explorer rear, get 2 of the passenger side u-bolt plates. that way you will flip 1 around for the drivers side (or is it pass i cant recall) and you will still have 1 shock front and 1 shock back.

I used ranger springs at first and it was way too low for me(did not want to c-notch the frame) so I swap over to the x-plorer spings replaced shock(kelpt ranger style) and used the shocks mounts on the x-plorer spring pads. If this is still to low for you, you can get so lift shakles for a 4wd ranger or lowing shackles for a chevy 1/2 ton to help raise it up. Don't forget to check you pinion angle. Just remember everyone does their own project dirrerent ways to reach thier final goal.The best way is to just pull out the old put in the and change things as needed for own final goal.

i'm still using ranger springs. with ranger springs and the expo rear, i yielded around 4-5" drop.

So it sounds like I'll have no choice but to get the explorer springs, as 4"-5" drop is way too low for me, I like the look of 2"-3" the best. Plus I'm 6'0" and I hate having to pull myself up and out of cars lol

But again, real quick to clarify... to get the 2-3 drop, would I put the Eplorer axle over or under Explorer springs?

In my case I had splash springs witch will be lower than stock, so when I went with x-plorer spring it did lift mine. From what I had read and understand if you have standard springs (non-splash) it will not rasise it any. With being said do the swap and if it too low for ya use the shakles and rasie it up. Shackles are easy to come easy to install and not priced to high either.

The problem is, the job I have now is 100% travel. I am only home now because of a delay in the project. I'm normally only home two weekends a month, and possibly less than that in coming months. I need to get this right on the first shot because I don't know when I'll be home again, and I don't know that I'll have time to work on it when I am home next. I guess I'll have to get the blocks so I have them right there if I need them during the initial swap, and return them if I don't need them.

So, to sum it up:

1.) Get the 8.8 rear end, brake lines, and 2 passenger side shock mounting brackets.
2.) Everything should bolt up, just have to spin one of the mounting brackets so the Ranger shocks can still mount fore & aft.
3.) Play with having the flip kit or not and have lifting blocks on hand, figure out which arrangement gets me back to my current ride height. I'll take off the bed, then measure the height of the frame from the ground before we start the swap, that way I can confirm the height matches before I put the bed back on.

...but other than playing with the springs/flip kit/lift blocks everything is a bolt up, right? No fabrication needed? Did I miss anything?

the expo axle mounts over the spring. just like your ranger is if you have already installed a flip kit. so there would be no reason for using a flip kit, unless you wanted to mount the axle under the spring, and that would give you ~5" of lift. now, if you have a 3" drop in the rear right now, you got that from a flip kit and shackles, correct? if that's the case, you should retain the same drop my just installing the axle over the springs.

Why pull the bed? Did mine in a weekend thats changing shackles and spring around to get back the way I wanted it and never pulled the bed.But yes it is pretty much just bolt in and go.

Why pull the bed?

Ummm... have you seen the first page of this thread??

I figured if they tell me to do it in a thread called "HOW-TO Explorer Axle Swap" with the whole first page of pics showing that they took the bed off, then that's probably what I needed to do.

Of course, I'm reading this thread because I've never done this before, so for all I know it's just as doable without removing the bed. So can anyone explain why one would need to take off the bed, other than making it easier to work on the truck?

Ummm... have you seen the first page of this thread??

I took this more as a guide line, more of a doer than a reader.I left my bed on because I had no help to remove it, you will spend more time on your back, I guess, by leaving the bed on, but the task can be handled either way and you will like the way the disc work and look when finished, plus you get to tell people that you was the one that did it. If you lived closer I would give ya hand.

I jus re-read my previous post and realized I probably came off as an @$$, sorry bout that. Thanks, but no, it's ok. My next door neighbor said he'd help me with it. Then again if I can do it without removing the bed I can probably do it myself. Like I said, I just want to get this right the first time... I can't afford to leave my truck sitting half done in my driveway while I'm out of town for weeks at a time. But thanks everyone for the clarification :)

Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaang on.

I just read in another thread that the Explorer rear axles have a different bolt pattern. That would mean I wouldn't be able to keep my Cobra replicas on the back wheels... and I'm not interested in giving them up. I'm sure as heck not having a mistached set. Kind of an important detail to consider, ya think? But I didn't see that mentioned anywhere in this thread.

If this is the case I think I'll see if I can find one of the Ranger 4.10 LS rear ends and do the Mustang disc swap instead.

unless it's the new models, it will have the same bolt pattern. mine is from a 96 and the pattern is the same. i'm running 96-98 gt wheels on mine with no problems.

Ok, good to know. Does anyone know what year the bolt pattern changed on the Explorer to be the same as on the Ranger?

A while ago. Even the never explorers have the same bolt pattern, but just a more positive offset when they went to the independent rear end.

Right.

The Explorer rears are all the same width.

The 83-88 Ranger rears are 3" narrower than the Explorer rear, 1.5" per side. They are also 1.5" narrower than the 89-04 Ranger rears, .75" per side.

The 89-04 Ranger rears are 1.5" narrower than the Explorer rear, .75" per side.

So, from narrowest to widest, in 3/4" (per side) steps, they go
83-88 Ranger + .75" per side = 89-04 Ranger
89-04 Ranger + .75" per side = Explorer

So 99 Supercab and danger94Ranger are both right.

On page 3 I think on this thread it was stated that the 1st and 2nd gen rangers are a total of 3in narrower than the explorer is this true or is this quote true??? There is 2 different anwsers I just need to know before I go and narrow an explorer rear if it is only .75" narrower on either side then I won't.

Fred

i know 93+ is 3/4" per side, and from what i've heard, gen 1-2's are 1.5" per side on a 95+ axle. take a tape measure and measure them.

Anyone have any more detailed pictures of this? I have my rear end now and have all new hardware on it. I just want to make sure I have EVERYTHING so I can make it as quick and painless as possible.

Hey Rob,

For my swap I had the explorer rear end, explorer shock mounts (the mounts that the u-bolts attach to, its the same piece), and i had to use explorer lift springs on mine because I wanted to keep stock ride height. That was the way I got around doing it and I got stiffer springs outta the deal.

I ended up having to need the rubber brake line that went between the axle and the line up to the front. I forget why, but I think the one I recieved was broken, or that in taking it off it broke.

I also went from drum-disc, and the e-brake cables hook up a different way with drum than disc. I just went to a local parts place and bought e-brake cables for a 97 explorer. The e-brakes on this truck runs one line all the way down til almost the axle, then splits and each caliper has its own cable. The explorer ones connect into that connection just like the ranger, and the other end will fit into the caliper.

Hope this helps, let me know if you want to know anything else, I didn't have any pictures from mine unfortunantly

Anyone have any more detailed pictures of this? I have my rear end now and have all new hardware on it. I just want to make sure I have EVERYTHING so I can make it as quick and painless as possible.

make sure you have some assorted pinion angle shims there. if you use the stock expo spring mounts i can almost guarantee your pinion angle will be high. also like the previous poster mentioned, take a real good look at the expo e-brake cables. you might need to find a different year cable set.

then again you might be lucky and it will all fit perfectly..it took us about 2.5 hrs to do the swap, and then another hour for me to measure and set the pinion angle a week later..it would have been a lot less work to do the shims when we did the swap...

also..pull the bed...makes it all so much easier!

good luck!! it will be time well spent!

OK. Yea I understand the part about the ebrake cable. That part I'm not too confused about. It's the shock mounts. I didn't personally get to pull the explorer rear end it was a "no public entry" junkyard. Hmm I do have chiltons book maybe I'll take a look in there LOL be a good start...*smacks head*

if you are at stock ride height and you profile pic looks like you are...you may want to delay till you can get spring perches welded on top of the tubes or you'll be looking at the sky a lot...while you are doing that you might as well get shock tabs welded on too....

if lowered or planning to lower...
just put the one bottom plate on backwards. when you are doing it you'll see what i mean right away. you'll have to squeeze the u bolts a bit to get them started. you'll also need to pull your shock into the mount. it does put a weird twist on the shock but it does fit and they do work ok. I just chose to get new shock mounts so I can put the shocks into their normal positions.


I will try to get you pics of mine tomorrow afternoon.

Easy as pie rob, and like was already said pull the box. You will thank yourself in the end.
I cut my shock mounts off of the 7.5 and welded them on the 8.8

Yea, my profile pic needs major updating haha. I've changed the front quite a bit. I'm currently sniffing the ground haha. Dropped the front 3".

AH that's a good idea seeing as my 7.5" is scrap now for the most part.

Will most likely pull the box as I made a retarded mistake when cutting my blowthru LOL. Decided to pump spray foam between the bed and the cab. Then the can blew up. AND it didn't do anything I wanted it to. Yea, I was young, dumb n fulla ***. LOL So I want to clean it all up.

I will be doing this at a friends local speed shop. So I have access to every tool ever needed and a hoist as well as many other helpful things.

Just PM'ed you with some pics....
Let us know how you make out...

EDIT: 2 new observations from under my truck...

depending on the expo axle, there are a lot of configs out there from what I read/heard -

look at the brake hard line. The hard line on my expo axle runs straight on top of the tube. Full suspension travel or hitting the stop will flatten that line unless you relocate (bend) it to the side of the tube.

the factory sway bar mount tabs should come off! In some cases (mine) they align perfectly with the frame and limit your suspension travel. They become very HARD travel limiters..and take a good 2 inches off your suspension travel. But..if you haven't moved your brake lines...they are good positive stops so you don't crush the brake line..

I think I am going to notch the frame to get more travel. The shock mounts are also going to be returned to their stock positions ASAP.

Last thing I need to do is to put my sway bar back on...

Yep, I took my sway bar mounts/bushings off no problems. They were like clamps.

Here I'll throw up a pic of my rear ends.

Stock 7.5"
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f46/Riddle_Rob/Stranger%20Build/IMG_3510Large.jpg

Side shot of how things sit now.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f46/Riddle_Rob/Stranger%20Build/IMG_3512Large.jpg

Crappy pic of my 8.8" out of an 01 sploder.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f46/Riddle_Rob/Picture011Large.jpg


Like I mentioned, I'm confused as to how the explorer was set up as I didn't remove the rear end. Wasn't a You Pick It junkyard. I'm starting to figure it out more so now that I've ripped mine out and moched up the sploder rear.

Now, can I use ranger leaf plates + 3 1/8" ubolts? Or do I neeeeed explorer plates? I'm trying to figure out a parts list, tired of running out every hour to get something I forgot / replace something that won't work.

My plan ATM is to grind old shock tabs off and weld onto 8.8" as the aftermarket ones I have don't seem to be tall enough.

You'll need the expo u bolts and plates. Ranger ones are too small.

Looks like your axle has the same brake lines/sway bar mounts as mine. While its out, cut them puppies off. Change the brake hard line so it runs off of the tube top and doesn't interfere with your shock mounts. Your axle stops will crush them if you don't.

Don't do what I just did...while cutting the sway bar mounts off...went right through the hard line! DUH! Got a ubend one from azone that was way too long temporarily...looks like a carnival ride...got to get it bled before it starts to pour...back to work!

Hmm. So this is proving to be more then I was ready for. Wish I had asked for the expo plates then.

Think it's possible to buy new plates + ubolts from Ford and have it within a day or 2? I'm in Ontario btw...LOL.

The shop owner where the truck is right now is helping a lot. I think he's going to help me out with my brake lines. I really didnt want to have to run new lines. Was going to just cut out the bump stops to have more travel.

Went everywhere today trying to find UBOLTS only and nobody has them. Just generic ones and they didn't even have the right size or enough in stock.

Guess I'm going to Ford after long weekend :(


EDIT:

I want 3.25" (3 1/4" Ubolts right?)

any spring shop can make them up for you. just tell them the size of thread you need an what size of tubing an axle over or axle under. takes then 5 min to make them up.

I need the plates too though. :( I found a local shop that makes the bolts. What's different about the plates? Are they wider? Or are the holes just spread more apart? I would modify them and use them if I can avoid going to the junkyard and working for hours to get 8 feckin bolts off.

i used my stock u-bolts with no problems. had to caress them around, but they work fine. the lower plates can be bought from ford. i paid $18 each.

you can always go to one of the ford dealers online and order them. they'll express ship if you can't wait..

I ended up going back to azone and bought another line..and ended up bending it perfect and flaring it too...I should post a pic of the previous line but it would be to embarrassing..

took a quick spin and I did not hit the stops once...it was those expo sway bar brackets hitting the frame!! I probably got myself another 2 inches of travel...
another lesson learned..

Found this site and now I understand how the expo rear was set up.
http://www.teamfordparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214270&chapter=&Sectionids=24,2788&groupid=2523&subgroupid=3548&componentid=0&make=10&model=Explorer&year=2001&graphicID=MF95630&callout=5&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

Was found in my search for parts.

hey did you guys have any problems getting the ebrake to work after swapping the ex 8.8?

check my thread for my problem, need help!
http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1940776

I've been looking online for the past couple of days for the following parts off an Explorer: shock plates, rear cross-member, and sway bar mount tabs. Is there a difference in the way it will perform if i have the shocks mounted on the explorer crossmember or if i have them mounted in the Ranger position? This is the only site i've been able to find anything http://www.teamfordparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214270&chapter=&Sectionids=24,2788&groupid=2523&subgroupid=3548&componentid=0&make=10&model=Explorer&year=2001&graphicID=MF95630&callout=5&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

if i mount them like the Ranger would i get two Left plates?

also how many u- bolts will i need? and do i need nuts or other hardware to fasten them or does it come with the right stuff

If you use the explorer rear crossmember, I am assuming you mean the upper one with the shock mounts, and you use the expo lower plates, you would set the shocks up just like an explorer. If you use the upper ranger mounts and the expo shock plates, you would need 2 of the same side, I think it is left, or you could just twist the one side around. You will need all 4 expo u bolts and nuts.

If you get your axle from a upull, just take everything you need from there.

I personally didn't like the way the truck handled using the expo shock plates and I didn't like the excessive twist I had to put on the shocks to get them on. I had shock mounts welded onto the axle tubes after about 2 weeks and it made a big difference in ride and handling.

Still haven't got to my swaybar though...

well i already have the axle and there arent upulls on long island (at least not that i'm aware of)

what kind of shock mounts did you weld on? what did you use for the upper mounts?

well i already have the axle and there arent upulls on long island (at least not that i'm aware of)

what kind of shock mounts did you weld on? what did you use for the upper mounts?

I used the stock ranger upper mounts and welded a pair of these (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Paired-Shock-Bracket-Curved-Axle_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42609QQihZ007QQite mZ170227554780QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW) on so the shocks would be nearly in perfect stock position.

I may have an extra set laying in the garage if you want them...they were cheap so I bought a couple of pair just in case...

I used 2 passenger side plates from expo.
I turned them 90deg so the shock mounts point inwards.
THEN I mounted them using custom made ubolts that were thicker and 3" longer then needed (so I can fit blocks later on).
After that I seen where the shocks needed to be, noticed the twist. It wasn't the twist I was expecting it was like a rod bending twist. SO I took a huge pair of channel locks and bent the plate shock mount arms into the position I wanted. AFTER I just mounted up the ranger sway bar. Had to flip the top bracket on the passenger side bushing to get it into place.

PICS IN MY THREAD!
http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=231447

sorry to bring this thread back from the dead yet agian but i have a question. everyone i have saw that said that the e-brake connnected with no problem was running a 94 and newer ranger. i have a 90' GenII and has a different hook up for the e-brake. anyone have a problem solver for this one? i want to have everything i need to do the swap becaseu i will only have two days to do it and if i need to order or find parts i need my truck to do it. thanks guys.

I have a 88 and I used a rear end out of a 94 or so Explorer with drum brakes and I just took the ranger cables loose and stuck them in the Explorer rear end at the drums and it worked just fine like that.

Mine I had to buy the replacement ebrake cables for the explorer rear end and I haven't got them connected yet. I'm going to run them and they should connect back where the Ranger ones did. I'll letcha know (With pics) when that happens.

its never dead..there will always be questions surrounding this swap.
a lot will depend on your rear wheel/tire combo. My 03 ext cab would have worked with a stock rim/tire combo but since I have 9 1/2 rear wheels the cable rubbed on my tire. I found a slightly (3 inch) longer left side cable from an 03 explorer but have not had time to see if it fits yet.
my pass side cable fit and works fine..one ebrake is better than none at all.

yet that goes to my point that you guys are running a new ranger then i am. i have a 90' and it is totaly different then the 94 and newer rangers. i want the disk brakes and they have a different end at the brake then the drum brakes have so my ranger cables won't work. if there isn't an easy and adjustabul way to hook up the brake cables i might just have to use a lokar hand ebrake and cables and mount it inbetween the seats but i would rath go with a stock set up. maybe using a 94 brake peddle and cables?

That's what I was saying ^^.

I upgraded from drums to disc. So the drum lines wouldnt work for me. I bought all new lines for the discs. They install and run up to the drivers side by the cab/bed split. That's where I'm not sure if its the same for you but I just have to clamp the explorer cables into the connection for the ranger.

I have looked at the connector where the two rear cables connect with the middle cable. The 89-93 are different then the 94+. so I would have to switch everything from the peddle back to the 94+ parking brake set up. unless anyone has a better idea.

Bringin it back again ...
I was at the J/Y the other day scoping out some rear ends, tell me if this tag is the same. The bottom line of the tag read L73x88 i believe so is that 3.73 with LS 8.8"? it was a lil diff format than you guys had posted, just wanted to make sure. Thanks