Here is my write up on installing a 5.0 HO intake in a Gen2 with the A/C box from my Cardomain page. I used this system instead of the Explorer stuff which made my life easier. I just wanted everyone to know there is more than one way to skin a cat.



Trying to fit the intake and everything else that goes with it became a headache. The problem is trying to fit the induction past the large A/C box on the passenger side in the engine compartment.



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Many people use a 90 degree EGR elbow from a 5.0 Ford Explorer in order to clear the airbox. I also got one and began to set mine up the same way. I ran into problems trying to run a Mustang throttle body with this as well as finding a throttle cable and TV cable long enough to reach the new position of the throttle body. I also couldn't find a bracket to hold these two cables and would have probably had to fabricate something. I got the throttle cable and bracket from a late model Explorer but there was no provision for a TV cable with that set up. I would have had to use a throttle body from an Explorer as well but there still would have been the TV cable issue.

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These are pictures of another Ranger that successfully used the Explorer EGR elbow. Pictures are courtesy of Gaelicvyk. :-)


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Then I learned that TFS made an EGR delete plate that brought the throttle body much closer in. Steeda makes a similar plate as well. I found that this plate is 3/8" thick. The idea behind the EGR delete plate is that you stop the hot exhaust gas from going back into the intake and heating up your intake charge which reduces your power potential. My main reason for using this was simply for gaining clearance for the intake tube.


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I mocked this spacing up using washers to see how it would allow the intake tube to fit. It worked but was pretty tight.


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Then a buddy and I decided to make our own plate from much narrower tool stock plate aluminum. You can see here how much narrower it is, but it is still super strong. The need for this plate was mainly to bring the throttle body in closer to the upper intake and provide a place to bolt the Mustang throttle cable bracket. The plate with the larger center hole was my template. It is designed to run a 90mm throttle body. The smaller one is what we made to work with a 65mm for when I upgrade in the future. Right now I am just using the stock Mustang throttle body.



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This is the final product with our fabricated plate mounted in the appropriate place.


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And this is what the final product looks like. Everything clears the A/C box nicely. Now I can use the Mustang throttle cable and TV cable which are easily attainable cheaply. No more quess work!


The thing to know about deleting the EGR on this is you must do something with the EGR sensor in the EGR valve you just removed. The cheap way to do this mod is to remove the sensor from the EGR valve and then secure it's plunger HALF WAY DOWN using zip ties, tape, or what ever. The better way is to get an EGR delete circuit to plug into the main harness that tells the computer only that the EGR valve isn't moving but makes it think it's still there. I got mine from www.fordfuelinjection.com for something like $12 delivered. From everyone I talked to on this subject, simply not plugging in the EGR sensor into the main harness or having the sensor plunger not depressed or all the way depressed will cause problems.

Here is a pic of that circuit..

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Some have complained of driveability and detonation problems after deleting the EGR. I have not expierenced any problems myself.

Awesome.

Thanks Dave - we need more stuff like this.

The California Ref will shoot you for this, if he sees it. Make sure you hide it and put the EGR back in when you go up for your certs. Email me for more ref info if you need it...

Adam