I finally got my BII tank in and the truck running. My main goal was moving weight to the back to help even out weight distribution and gain traction. Here is the end result.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_182_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_183_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_184_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_185_full.jpg

I noticed an immediate difference in the amount of traction. :thumbsup:
I am still not sure how I like the looks of it in the back though. Hopefully it grows on me and a little bit wider tire in the back may help offset it too.

Was it worth all the trouble.......my jury is still out.

You must have used the 33 gal tank.....correct? What did you use for mounting it?


Bird

You must have used the 33 gal tank.....correct? What did you use for mounting it?


Bird

23 gal, 33's are the BIG broncos. baby broncs have a 23 gal option only.

Dave it looks good, youll get used to it. ive always said that was one reason why my truck got good traction. so splash you some black paint on that bad dude and roll.

Yeah, paint it satin black and it will be a lot less noticable. John Deere makes a nice touch-up paint called "Blitz Black" and it is pretty durable too.

Just take it easy over those big speed bumps!!!

Never realized how low that would sit. Is there a shallower BII tank, or is just the 23 gallong tank? I have one sitting in the back of my 79 right now, but its been a year and half since I looked at it, didn't think it was that deep.

That is way too low, especially aft of the rear wheels. Watch out pulling into parking lots, etc. I would recommend a slight lift of the rear axle and a skid plate.

What is the other size bronco II tank? Did you get it new? If so, how much are these new? I like the idea for my truck and do not have to worry about ride height as I am 4x4.

Does it bolt right in with bronco straps?

Looks good, but scary low.

Paint it it will look fine but I hope you dont drag a hole in it WOW its low.

Sits way to close to the ground for safety. Around here that would be a BIG ass ticket. Man if you use the bII tank in the rangers you really need to suck it up and cut the bed.

The only BII tank listings I could find were the same 23 gal capacity.

I looked around but couldn't find anyone selling the rear aux. tanks that used to be an option on the Ranger. It basically went in the same location and that's why the beds still have the indent in the left side of the floor for the filler hose, not to mention the notches in the back for the tank straps. I only saw one truck that had it - there were two filler doors and a switch on the dash to select which tank you were drawing from. My buddy in NC picked it up (as it was cheap), and it was just a little 4-banger - a 2.0l if I'm not mistaken. He parted it out as he bought it for the cab to repair a roll-over but unfortunately the tank is long gone. I do remeber it though - it was smaller than the BII tank so it didn't hang down as far. Maybe a Ford dealer or gas tank shop could try and look it up for someone if they are interested. Unfortunately I can't remember what year it was, but am pretty sure it was pre-86 as I think it was carburated.

Yikes. I'd be careful with that Dave.

**Edit by moderator - we try not to be *******s on this particular board ;)

I would recomend that the bed needs to be cut and put inside.

What did you do with the fuel filler neck? I don't see the door. Did you cut a hole in the bed floor for it?

my opinion is it hangs way to low just my opinion :)

The only BII tank listings I could find were the same 23 gal capacity.

I looked around but couldn't find anyone selling the rear aux. tanks that used to be an option on the Ranger. It basically went in the same location and that's why the beds still have the indent in the left side of the floor for the filler hose, not to mention the notches in the back for the tank straps. I only saw one truck that had it - there were two filler doors and a switch on the dash to select which tank you were drawing from. My buddy in NC picked it up (as it was cheap), and it was just a little 4-banger - a 2.0l if I'm not mistaken. He parted it out as he bought it for the cab to repair a roll-over but unfortunately the tank is long gone. I do remeber it though - it was smaller than the BII tank so it didn't hang down as far. Maybe a Ford dealer or gas tank shop could try and look it up for someone if they are interested. Unfortunately I can't remember what year it was, but am pretty sure it was pre-86 as I think it was carburated.



My mother had an 85 with two tanks The Front tank was like 16 gal the rear was 13 gal (I think) with the swicth on the dash and was carbed 2.8 V-6 wiyh an aod auto nice truck till she toatled it . <<<<Cant spell :iwstupidl

Geeez guys, your killin me here. I only posted this a couple of hours ago.

The tank came from the bone yard. It's 23 gal. I used strip steel from home depot to strap it. The kind they hang garage doors with and such.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_178_full.jpg

I only had one photo of a tank in the truck with the bed on so I really didn't have much to go on when doing this.

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=60

This is where the tank had to be to get the bed on. I had 6" ground clearance.....before the bed went on(key phrase here) The wife's Maxima has only 5" clearance so I figured it should be OK. When the bed went on, it dropped down to 4 1/2" clearance. My pics here are slightly deceptive as there is a slight incline to my driveway which the rear is not on but the front is.

tmsoko...I think you are on to something. I also think it needs to be up a little. I was plannin on going to a taller rear tire soon but I don't know if that would be enough. How would I go about raising the rear yet keeping it axle over spring and not killing the entire traction bar system I made?

Ben L....good observation. I plan on cutting out the stock door and welding it in at the rear like a BII. The reason I haven't done that yet is because I am not certain I am going to keep this. I am concerned on how low it is. I'll put the stock tank back in before I cut the bed on it.

Keep the opinions and advice coming. I am not normally the one to go out on a limb with something new or unusual but what are projects for.

On a side note, the stock tank was only 4 1/2 to 5" off the ground. It just wasn't so obvious.

Has anyone else put this tank in a Ranger? Bart?....

How would I go about raising the rear yet keeping it axle over spring and not killing the entire traction bar system I made?


Lifting shackles? (Assuming the rear hanger is still in the stock config. with the leaf mounted below the framerail). I agree with you about not wanting to cut the bed, but frankly I'm scared to have one of the local body shops hack up my bed to move the fuel door. :( I'd almost prefer to cut a 5" hole in the bed, or try to rig some sort of apparatus to put the left taillight on a hinge and hide the fuel filler behind there.

I'm not sure what I want to do with the B2 tank I have rotting away in the attic... I want to install it like you did yours, but I'm unsure about the ground clearance even though my truck doesn't look as low as yours. Perhaps painting it black will go a long way towards hiding the tank, but (and I mean no offense here) your truck looks like it just gained 200 pounds of bah-dunk-a-dunk junk in the trunk. ;)

I'm not wanting to burst your bubble any, but if you haven't filled the tank yet, that'll be another 200lbs of weight back there too, making it even lower to the ground. I've seen race trucks that cut a fuel cell into the bed in basically the same location, and probably for the same traction effect without the hang-low look.

I'll probably look at those shackles and some taller tires for the 17" rims I have in the attic for the rear.

The tank is full in these pics.

If I keep this, my buddy will do the body work. He is a top notch restoration guy and could do this in his sleep.

I didn't think to check the ride height before and after this install. To me, it looks like the rear may have dropped no more than an inch.

I'd mount it on top of the frame rails opposed to beneath them. You could try a mustang one they are shallower and you might not have to cut so much.

On his 47 Merc pickup my Uncle used a Mustang tank between the frame rails...I can get dimensions if anyone is interested. It looks to be a good bit shallower than the BII tank is.

I'll just take a tape measure to the 86 Mustang parked right behind the truck in my pic. I think it's gonna be too wide though. But that's just eye-ballin it.

Well aren't you resourceful ;)

Maybe look into mounting a fuel filler access cover on the bed floor provided the tank filler hole is in a good location under the bed.

Maybe a marine supply store would have a flush mount access cover.

Either that or like the old 60's & 70's GM products - they had a spring loaded mount for the rear license plate that hid the filler neck & gas cap.

I believe the mustang tank is ~43+ wide. WAY to wide for between the frame rails. The 13 gallon reserve Ranger tank or a smaller bronco tank, or heck, even a 16 gallon summit fuel cell <$200 sould work fine.

ok first of all, there is no smaller Bronco tank. you have one option 23 gal. if you were to grab a reserve tank like todd is saying, well the only broncos that have that kinda reserve tank are the 66-77 broncos which was either 11 or 12 gal, but it bolts up in the same place as the ranger tanks. the main can for the broncos were in the back and were about 20 gal. there is also no STOCK replacement for a ranger to fit in between the framerails at the back. if you use a B2 tank, you need to get the straps and possibly grab the x-memeber that the strap to.


Has anyone else put this tank in a Ranger? Bart?....

dave, 4" is way to low. i have 8" of GC on mine. however before you go a hackin at that bed, lemme just throw this at you..... you still have your stockers on correct? if your gonna do some a/m wheels try them on there first. my truck will drop an extra 2" when i put my stockers back on. if that doesnt pick it up a little then either move it up in the floor or just throw it in the bed (do you have a bed cover?)

heres a pic of mine.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/437000-437999/437679_98_full.jpg


BUT thats not in a ranger neither, this is what i drive.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/437000-437999/437679_94_full.jpg

however i have helped put one in a 97 ranger. ended up bodydropping it, so we just put the tank in the bed. hes got a bedcover, its real nice, open the cover and fill it up.

Yeah, I agree with everyone else about it being too low. Like you did, I was thinking about mounting a BII tank in place of the spare, but I had a shortbed midship tank lying around so I used it. I have it mounted in the bed, behind the rear tires. So, open the tailgate and there it is. When filled up, it seems to lower the truck about 1/2 inch or so. I can hear the truck "creeking" as I fill the tank up at the gas station. I also have the rear spring hangers flipped. Id love to find a rear tank from a dual tanked Ranger, and when I do, my SB tank is gone! I also thought about mounting a BII tank in the bed at the rear. I wonder how that would work...

just tossin ideas bro....good work!

I have access to a rear tank from a dual tank Ranger. I was actually going to use it in my truck when I was going carbed, but can't easily use it now that I'm going EFI. If anyone wants measurements I can get them next time I'm out at the farm.

Todd, we must be thinking of a different tank, maybe it wasn't a Mustang tank my Uncle used, because it slid right behind the rails on that 47, and there ain't no way it's 4' wide at the framerails.

Heres 4 pics I posted earlier when you were looking at this

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140947

And here's one more. Shows it fits in the spare tire carrier, so I wouldn't think it would hang that low. This is Doug904's truck, so you may want to contact him on this subject.

There was also a tank available in the way early Fox years that was only about 28" wide and it held 13 gals, since I had to replace one.

Brian

The Mustang tank is way too wide. I don't want anything coming through the bed floor so cutting it is out. I still have to make Home Depot trips and haul kid stuff around. I don't see anyway to make it work with the license tag idea. I had thought about stealing someone elses idea about putting it behind the driver's side tail light and putting that on a hinge or something. I guess I'll make a decision on that once I decided if this is gonna work.

I could physically move the tank up as much as 3" if I cut out one of the support beams running on the bottom of the bed. I'm just not too sure what that would do to the integrity of the bed itself.

The rear Ranger tank idea wouldn't work on this with EFI. The pump assymbely goes all the way to the bottom of this tank.

Tate, I see how that one was done now. I have no idea how it fit though!! I'll try and track that guy down. Is he still a member here?

I remember someone mentioning running 275/55R17 Nitto drag radials. My thinking is that would be somewhere near a 27 or 28" tire. I have looked all over but can't find that size. Has anyone ever heard of them? And where would I source lift shackles? I have only looked a little bit on those and haven't found any.

stylinconcepts.com should have your shackles, and doug is the owner of bamachips, one of our preferred vendors. He's also a SuperMod here.

This was the tank I was refering to:
http://www.quantaproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=F-2A

I would say if you mounted the filler neck to the back, it could work.

Brian

This was the tank I was refering to:
http://www.quantaproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=F-2A

I would say if you mounted the filler neck to the back, it could work.

Brian

The problem I see with that is the fuel injection assymbly would only go about half way in if there were a hole that would accept it. I might work with a pump mounted external to the tank and different fuel system but that would be getting very far away from my "low buck" approach to the whole thing.

I'm gonna look harder at removing that crossbeam under the bed and move it up 2". With that and taller tires, and mabey those shackles, this should be do-able. The cross beam I am talking about is the one that runs across the bed, underneath, and 2 of the hold down bolts go through it. The ceter ones if looking at things from the front of the bed to the back. It looks kind of major so I'm not sure how I feel about cutting it.

I want to keep this tank in the back. There is a definate difference in traction.

There was also a tank available in the way early Fox years that was only about 28" wide and it held 13 gals, since I had to replace one.

Brian

Hmmmmmmm, maybe that is the tank I have in my stang..... that is why when it shows a 1/4 tank I can only get 8 gallons in it, I just thought the gauge was wrong.

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=99

In these pics, you can see how the top of the tank hits the bed floor. If you look close, it looks like you can see a line that is slightly discolored running along the bed. That is where my cross beam is.

Tate, I see how that one was done now. I have no idea how it fit though!! I'll try and track that guy down. Is he still a member here?

Yep, he's still around. He's a mod and a PV, so he's not allowed to leave. ;)

Thanks Tate.

I have it apart again now. The more I looked at that tank, the more knew it had to be done. I'll try setting it up like the pics Tate gave and see if I can massage the bed enough to fit it.

Further bulletins as events warrant.

Any chance of getting a hold of the Bronco II crossmember? The one I have in the shed looks like it would let you raise the tank several inches.

Any chance of getting a hold of the Bronco II crossmember? The one I have in the shed looks like it would let you raise the tank several inches.

The frame cross member isn't an issue. My set up is fully adjustable as far as tank height is concerned. The issue is clearance with the bed.

Last night I brought it back up and put the old spare tire bar under it like the picture Tate provided. I'll test fit the bed this weekend and see if cutting out that bed crossmember is gonna give me the clearance I need. If so, I think I will be set.

I cut the crossmember out of there. It didn't effect the rigidity of anything. This is the crossmember I have been talking about.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_187_full.jpg

It's the one closest to you and on the end of the saw horse. Here is what it looks like after the cut.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_188_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_189_full.jpg

I raised the tank up enough to get the old spare tire carrier under it.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_186_full.jpg

The bed fit right on but it is contacting the tank ever so slightly. I have no problem with that. Now I don't have to worry about the tank jumping up over bumps. I'll get some final pics on here once I get the roll pan back on.

It now has 7" of ground clearance. I can definately live with this.

That's better...did you ever find out how Doug did his?

Very nice - for every problem there is usually a creative solution to be found. You can apply some padding or a thin sheet of rubber on the top to prevent the tank from bumping around or chafing against the bottom of the bed or the cut edge from the support.

Very nice indeed... Thanks for the pics, those are great!!! This is definite sticky material; how about it Kevin?

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_190_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_191_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_193_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_194_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_192_full.jpg

Once I am certain I am going to keep this, I will turn my attention to the fuel access issue. So far, I think it is a keeper.

That's better...did you ever find out how Doug did his?

No I didn't. It said he doesn't accept PM's and that the admisnistrator turned off his email. So I don't know what is going on with that.

Ah, he said he was turning off his PM's because he was receiving duplicate requests from customers and having a hard time keeping track of who was who.

I definitely like the looks of it afterwards, it is tucked up there pretty good and doesn't look like it would drag on anything... I caught myself eyeballing fuel tank skidplates :eek: on a couple B2's at the junkyard on Saturday morning, but I'm glad there's a solution and it doesn't look like it will screw the bed up too bad.

Yeah I think it looks real good there too. I'm going to have to consider this for the future.

that looks much better, good thinkin :)

Thanks for the kind words all.

The only thing that is making contact between the tank and the bed is the plastic vent thing. It's minimal enough that the vent won't get hurt but just enough to make sure the won't move around. The thing is in there rock solid.

The distance between the bed and the filler hole for the tank definately decreased. It's now a PITA to get your hands in there to clamp down the fill tube. If I were to go through the bed floor for the fuel fill access, I would not be able to use the factory filler assembly that is just behind the fuel fill door. That thing is about 5-6" long and would be sitting up like a periscope.

I'll either go with moving the door or possibly running a long fill tube over to the stock door. The latter would be tricky cause I would have to run the tube along the frame in the wheel well and there is a beefy set of traction bars there.

I'll post what ever I end up with.

i seen a car or truck that had the gas filler"where ya put gas" in the rear tail light,it flipped down,was cool,1 hinge and 1 latch or sumthin might do it,just an idea :)

Ok, there is a rear tank for the rangers...it's small, and dosn't hang down like that. My 94 Splash has the same mounting holes for the straps as the 86 4x4 that had the tank did. I think it would be a straight bolt in, except for the filler neck, however, the inside of your bed is already notched for the neck, all you gotta do is cut the box skin, if you don't wanna put it in the floor...

I think that's what I'm going to go for on my Splash....

Ok, there is a rear tank for the rangers...it's small, and dosn't hang down like that. My 94 Splash has the same mounting holes for the straps as the 86 4x4 that had the tank did. I think it would be a straight bolt in, except for the filler neck, however, the inside of your bed is already notched for the neck, all you gotta do is cut the box skin, if you don't wanna put it in the floor...

I think that's what I'm going to go for on my Splash....

The problem I would anticipate with that tank is it's depth. If you are using EFI, the pump assembly would not be able to go all the way into the tank. It would be too long. The only option would be to go to an external mount pump. I believe the tank you are talking about came as an option in the Gen1 years for a carbed motor.

That's where I've seen them.

Odd, my 86 was EFI, as is my dad's 88..As well as our 89...A new tank from Canadian Tire for my 86 was $111.xx.....

just curious why you didn't go with a large aftermarket fuel cell instead of fabbing the BII tank in?? was the price what led you to the B tank?

matt

He got it for free, and uses his box.

Odd, my 86 was EFI, as is my dad's 88..As well as our 89...A new tank from Canadian Tire for my 86 was $111.xx.....

I was regurgitating what I heard other say about that tank. I can tell you that the EFI pump assy from the BII and my 92 were the same in length. So neither would fit in a shallower tank.

Yeah, I got a hook up at one of the local bone yards and got this tank for free. That was a no brainer. I also wanted to keep the EFI pump cause I had just bought it not too long ago. It's a 190lph pump. And lastly, I didn't want to spend all kinds of money reinventing my fuel system.

What did you use to extend the factory fuel lines? At first it looked like blue push-lock hose but then I looked again and saw it's just blue split-loom...

I got 25 feet of the plastic line and a couple of the metal push in connectors. Then I cut the line to the 2 fittings that go to the tank. I left a generous amount of fuel line on the tank connectors. From there, I put in new lengths of the new plastic line to extend back to the tank. Then I spliced the old fittings that go to the tank onto the new line extensions. Does that make sense? I wrapped it all in wire loom to make sure nothing rubbed on it.

So I basically only used the new fuel line and 4 of the connectors. Actually I did put on 1 new connector that goes to the tank too. The old one came straight out but it was more beneficial to have one that came out at a 90 degree angle.

I can tell you that that plastic line is a PITA to mess with. The directions say to submerse the line in boiling water for 10 seconds to soften it up. Then you quickly push in the metal connectors. One problem was if fuel ran down the line and hit your new "softened" line, it would immediately cool the plastic and you were dead in the water. Here is a trick I came up with. Steal your wife's hair dryer. They put out more than sufficient heat to do this, there is no risk of igniting the fuel, and you can hold the heat on the line while you are trying to get that metal PITA connection in the line.

I got all of the parts at Napa Auto Parts and it was much cheaper than anything I found on line including Ron Morris.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_195_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_196_full.jpg

not to be a nay-sayer, but isn't it gonna be hard to get the fuel nozzle in there?

Looks sweet man. Much better with it lifted up like that.

did you do that from me mentioning seeing it?

PS94....I don't know yet. I'll let you know once I get finished with the filler tubing.

five o ranger......I am afraid Ben L gets the honors of being the one I stole the idea from. He actually mentioned it awhile back when I first started looking into this swap.

My body guy dropped out on me so it was either put a hole in the bed and have a periscope or do this. I think this will be more asthetically pleasing. I'll figure out how to put it on a hinge or something later. Right now I guess I will just have to unbolt the light whenever I want to fill it. I guess it is a good thing that a tank normally lasts me about 2 months with as little driving as I do with it.

thats coo,just didnt see it mentioned in this post :)
another idea 4 ya,screw hinge on bottom,and on top a quick release,like ones on a bicycle seat or somethin of that sort just an idea :)

Just make sure you don't have a short in your wiring that close to the filler neck! :flamethro

Maybe if you relocate the lights to the bumper or rollpan it'd be a little safer and you could make a door easier.

I'm thinking of putting my light on a hinge on the outside using the two mounting holes on the bed one one side of a piano hinge and the two mounting holes on the taillight on the other side of the hinge, with some sort of latch on the inside of the light between the inner edge of the bed and the tailgate. That way, you'll have to open the tailgate to access the latch, and the taillight will be positively retained. I'm thinking either Dzus fittings (not sure if the plastic taillight housing will take the strain of the spring) or simply use the factory screws and just make sure I keep my tool bag in the truck. I definitely don't want to have to completely remove the taillight every time, since I intend to drive this truck several days a week and I want my wife to not be scared to drive it so it doesn't sit while I'm deployed for 6 months out of the year...

My other thought was to use a magnetic latch, similar to how glass doors are latched on an entertainment center? You know how you push in and the latch pops out just enough where you can grip the edge of the door (or the door releases from the magnet) and then you simply push the door back gently to "click" the latch closed. My concerns with this are: the light won't have positive retention (a hard dragstrip launch may possibly jar the light off of the magnet), keeping the metal part of the latch secured to the plastic light housing, and pulling on the corner of the taillight constantly to open it like that might cause it to crack.

Let us know how you do the taillight mounting/hinging! Your installation behind the taillight is exactly what I envisioned in my head... It looks perfect! :thumbsup: :headbang:

Nice work Dave.

Guys, for hardware, check out www.southco.com

They used to send out free "engineering" samples. They have 1/4 turn fasteners (similar to Dzus) and many push to close/push to open latches that would work very well for this application. They make awesome products. (they actually supply ford with the sliding window latches that always break lol)

Kev

**Edit**

Touch latches (http://www.southcoipsg.com/prd/detail_portal.showpage?nNodeID=2104&nLang_ID=0&vPN=E4-10-201-10&vPN2=NULL)



Grabber latch (http://www.southcoipsg.com/prd/detail_portal.showpage?nNodeID=2100&nLang_ID=0&vPN=C3-303&vPN2=NULL)

I got my filler tubing all done tonight. What a PITA. Dealing with big hose sucks to begin with cause it doesn't like bend any other way than it was rolled up. And then you gotta deal with a tube inside a tube.

Anyway, next step is to see if I can get gas into this thing.

Well, it won't accept fuel into the filler as it sits. The nozzle immediately clicks off and fuel starts running back at you. I think this has to do with the fact that the filler is in ther coming straight out as opposed to the normal, stock orientation which is the filler sitting at a 45 degree angle. I'll have to double check to make sure none of the hoses are kinked, but I think it is an angle thing.

I'll keep the posts coming as I try to figure this thing out.

I had the same problem when I modified the filler neck for my in-bed Ranger tank. I found that the vent was stuck or plugged up. That may have something to do with the fuel coming back up.

I had the same problem when I modified the filler neck for my in-bed Ranger tank. I found that the vent was stuck or plugged up. That may have something to do with the fuel coming back up.

That's something I will have to look at. With this, the second you squeeze the handle, the pump shuts off. Even if you just barely squeeze it the pump shuts down. It seems to me like the fuel isn't even getting past the filler neck assembly into the hoses to take it to the tank.

Is that what yours was doing? I swapped in the vent off of my Ranger tank which I know was fine. I didn't look too hard to see if I may have pinched the vent line but I will take a look at it. Thanks for the idea.

I got in there tonight and put some washers on the top of the fixture in order to angle to it. I think I got 25 degrees or so. That's all I could get.

However, it looks like my problem is in the filler hoses I ran from the fuel inlet fitting to the tank. It has to make a pretty tight bend from the inlet down to the tank and it runs between the frame and the bed. The tubes are flattened out which I am sure is the culprit here.

I don't know if there is gonna be a fix to this one. It's not like they made a preformed hose for this application. I guees my only real option here is to use a bunch of hose clamps to make the big hose more round and hope that allows the smaller inner hose(the one the fuel actually flows through) to open up.

If this doesn't work I guess I will be looking at putting a hole in the bed. Either that or plead with my friend to fit me into his schedule.

It works!! I guess having put some angle on the fuel inlet assymbely did the trick. I also put hose clamps on that flattened piece of hose. They just conformed to the shape of the hose and didn't really do anything. But I was able to get fuel into it. The only thing is, when it gets full, it will shoot fuel back at you instead of shutting the pump down.

I filled at the same station but not the same pump I tried before. I hope the pumps themselves isn't a variable here. I'll let you know if I run into problems down the road. I still may go with the idea of moving the fuel fill door on the bed if my buddy can ever fit me in.

Would I have done this swap knowing then what I know now.........I kind of think I would pass to be honest. But there was only one way to find out.

Congrats Dave. Take a look at the latches I linked to, they make some cool ****, and if you can hinge that tail-light on one side nobody will ever know it's there.

I definately will. Thanks for the link Kevin.

To expound on my earlier, would I have done this statement. Doing this swap opened up all kinds of room on the driver's side of the truck that could be used for exhaust. It would have been much easier, and cheaper to get the dual system made for this set up. I'm wondering if a Mustang H or X pipe would work with this setup. But I have 5 beans into my current exhaust system so it's going to stay as is.

maybe this "aft" tank is the one that you guys are looking for

http://www.parts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=318&chapter=DN2022&appSectionid=6&groupid=10025&subgroupid=60670&make=10&model=Ranger&year=1985&catalogid=1

Well, I ran out one full tank of gas on this set up. Went to refill it and click, click....gas wouldn't go in! I checked things out and found that the small gas fill tube inside the big one had collapsed. This was caused by bends in it though none were really all that severe.

I pulled it apart and redid the fuel fill hoses. Ended up using the factory fuel hoses that came with the Bronco tank and the factory hoses that came from my origional fuel fill assy. I just joined the two with new lengths of hose. I also put in a 45 degree elbow to help keep the inside tube from collapsing again where the outer tube bends the most. It now fills and shuts down just like factory.

Tip...if you do this, try to get as much of the filler tubing from the BII as you can. The most important is the big and small(the one inside the big) tubes that go to the tank. You have to have pre formed hoses for this area due to the amount of bending involved.

I was regurgitating what I heard other say about that tank. I can tell you that the EFI pump assy from the BII and my 92 were the same in length. So neither would fit in a shallower tank.

Yeah, I got a hook up at one of the local bone yards and got this tank for free. That was a no brainer. I also wanted to keep the EFI pump cause I had just bought it not too long ago. It's a 190lph pump. And lastly, I didn't want to spend all kinds of money reinventing my fuel system.


Just thought I'd add that my '86 longbed truck has dual tanks. The rear is kinda little, but is was nice to have (when it was turbo'd) 1 tank with street gas and 1 tank with race gas. LOL

Is there an internal pump in that little tank in the back?

Yep. Dual tank models have 3 fuel pumps. LOL 1 low pressure pumps in each tank and 1 HP on the frame. :blink: :judge:

I've done the BII tanks swap too. Your is pretty low. If you put a skidplate on there that could hold the truck up you could stay with it. Also toss those straps, they will break pretty easy. You can make ones from steel similar to the stock straps, they have it at Lowes, Home Depot...etc. One end to match the stock strap and bolt the other to the crossmember you have. It's much stronger. I have a 3 in bodylift on my truck and the tank fits like it was a stock fit but I did have to run the filler into the bed. If I were you I would get a skid plate no matter what, lift the truck or notch the bed to get it higher. I have some pics...www.cardomain.com/id/imagineanitemare


Matt

Your is pretty low.... I have a 3 in bodylift on my truck ....

That probably explains why his looks so low. (in your eyes)
I don't think his is any lower than most cars, I don't think my wife's 97 Intrepid has anymore room that what Dave's truck shows...