yea i got the mounts bolted on and lowered the engine in yesterday. to me it doesnt seem like they will work. im gonna mess around with it a little more to day. any suggestions or approximatley were i need to drill. if this doesnt get any better im gonna drop some cash and get the l&l mounts. all so hoiw the hell do you get the whole heater box/blower motor assembly off. there is a like smooth face rivet kinda thing thats holding me up. any help would be great guys.

What exactly are you having problems with? You need to swap the mounts from side to side. If you look at the frame side of the mounts, you will see that the large stud is offset. The mount must be bolted to the motor so that the studs are furthest foward.

As for bolting it to the frame, there is one reference point on the pass side. There are several holes in the frame left over from where the stock mount bolted in. The stud on the pass side should be headed towards this hole. I think I went down slightly from there by just elongating the hole, to get the motor lower. There are no reference points on the driver's side.

Are you talking about the metal shiled just above the exhaust? I just ground out the rivets to pull that off.

As far as the heater box, if yours looks like mine then it unbolts right down the middle. The half closest to the motor pulls off and the other half stays put. Pics of that in my www too.

yea i ripped off the heat shield thing. but the whole heater box. the blower motor and evrything. there is like 3 bolts you can get at from the top but i took out the fender well and there is like a rivet type of thing under there. wondering if i can just cut that out to remove the whole thing. thanks though that helped out with the mounts. im going to work on it right now. hey does anyone have sugestions for putting together braided stainless lines. ive been having a horrible time trying to put my fuel line together. it keeps fraying even with the tape on there tight. NATE

You have the tranny bolted to the motor right? Gotta have that to line things up.

I'm not sure what to tell you on the heater box. I didn't run into any rivets on mine. Quite a few little screws that were a pain to get to even with the motor out.

the heater box is two parts and the part closest to the motor you will have to remove and modify (it just bolts and screws on). and the vert mounts work fine, look at Bart's pics if you don't think they will.

alright ive been looking at pinellas50 web page and i cant tell if you just enlarged the hole on the driver side or is that a new hole there. im gonna try dropping her in again tomorrow. josh i got the swap book today. alot of good info just not a single thing on carb set ups. also what does your throttle cable bracket look like. NATE

The areas circled in red on my sight are approximately where I drilled. I didn't take any pics after the new holes were drilled. There is no hole on the driver's side in my pics.

I lowered the motor/tranny in with the motor mounts bolted to the engine. From there, I noted where the studs were contacting the frame when the motor was about centered in the truck. You can kind of see some of the white scratches on the driver's side frame up at the very top left over from contacting the stud.

Now the interesting part is drilling. You have to compensate for the fact that the stud is coming down at a angle so the final hole will be lower than the first place it contacts the frame. That is the tricky part. I ended up making my holes more of a slot so that I could lower the motor down further than where I first drilled. Once I got it where I wanted it I tightened down the big nuts on the back side. Then I drilled for the smaller bolts that can go through the mounts and bolt to the frame just for a little extra insurance.

You will have to drop the driver's side I beam where it bolts to the frame on the pass side. That is the only way to get to the nut on the back side of the pass side mount. Even then it's real tight.

Good info!

Nate, tried to email those pics to you but no worky. I put them in my www so you can get them there.

Originally posted by 95Rangerxlt
alright ive been looking at pinellas50 web page and i cant tell if you just enlarged the hole on the driver side or is that a new hole there. im gonna try dropping her in again tomorrow. josh i got the swap book today. alot of good info just not a single thing on carb set ups. also what does your throttle cable bracket look like. NATE

Yeah I guess I should have mentioned that (not trying to cheat you), but I used it for just basic pics and referance. as far as throttle cable, just buy a braket for it, you may have to swap cables (I am still using my stock one, but I am having problems with it not fiting the bracket right). if you have any questions feel free to pm me.

thanks guys. NATE, im going to drop it in tonight and run my 1/2'' fuel lines.

well. i think im gonna move it back further than were the factory holes are. right know i got about 2'' from valve cover to the firewall. now i got to find a bigger drill though. thanks for the help guys.by the way did you guys drop engine and trans in together. cause im having a tuff time swinging it in together. any body mess with braided stainless have any tips for assembly. im having a ruff time with the stuff. NATE

Originally posted by 95Rangerxlt
well. i think im gonna move it back further than were the factory holes are. right know i got about 2'' from valve cover to the firewall. now i got to find a bigger drill though. thanks for the help guys.by the way did you guys drop engine and trans in together. cause im having a tuff time swinging it in together. any body mess with braided stainless have any tips for assembly. im having a ruff time with the stuff. NATE

You can't install the motor and trans togather, what you do is lay the trans in the engine bay and scoot it back then install the engine and reattach.

I put them in together. I had to strip the front of the motor down to the timing cover to do it though.

Found this while digging around on the corral.

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=221337&highlight=motor+mounts

Pretty good info.

**EDIT** 94-95 Mustang GT mounts are just like the 87-93 'vert mounts.
http://img45.exs.cx/img45/5302/motormounts.jpg

What's needed is a how to about how to use them in a Ranger. Where to drill the frame, how to get the motor level, etc.

I was thinking the exact same thing earlier in the evening...I won't be able to do it for some time though...it would be nice if we could get someone to write one up...

Bart - you got your engine back in yet?

**edit**
Another good thread
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=541277&highlight=convertible+mounts


'vert mounts
http://www.napaonline.com/images_products/full_sized/43779.jpg

Left
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/ANH/2725.jpg
Right
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/ANH/2726.jpg

(taken from here (http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=223088&highlight=convertible+mounts) )

Regular mounts
http://www.napaonline.com/images_products/full_sized/43722.jpg

I would be glad to help with a write up, if someone could pass me the information. My swap project is stuck at this very point...

I have vert mounts, I have the engine/trans suspended in the engine bay, and it's been sitting like this for two months because I just a little nervous about drilling holes in the crossmember only to find that they are crooked... I assume as far as leveling the engine/trans you sort of do that with the trans mounts.

Anyway, I will be happy to do a write-up if you feed me the info.

If Bart sees this thread, he has some good info about placement...and he's in the same boat, except he's done it before.

I think pinellas50 also has some info on his site - http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/519188/4

Can anyone who's done this chime in and help ucmeflyby out? Somebody send this guy a PM and give him a call! He's been waiting two months!

If you want a complete, set of step by step instructions on positioning your motor and getting the Stang mounts where they need to be , go to therangerstation.com, then look in the forums under the engine swap section, there is a "sticky" posted there at the top of the page with what you want.

**There used to be a link to another site here but that web site crashed and the info was lost**
That is good info! (baddad457 should be given credit for that)

Thanks for the link to the rangerstation, baddad457 has given some good advice. I would like to second the sentiment that the passenger side V6 mount is a real PITA to get to, and I wish I had thought about lowering the arm to get to it. God I feel stupid about that.

I have used these mounts for years on all my swaps. Use your brains guys, this is so simple no one should need to ask.

Can we get some moderator intervention here?

Adam

ok i didnt even read that link up there. ill just show you though what i have.

ok motor mounts in the truck
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/437000-437999/437679_62_full.jpg

driver side off, im pointing to the original hole the 2.9 mount was bolted to.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/437000-437999/437679_59_full.jpg

on that from the orig hole, from the center you measure up 1" and back 1". drill a 9/16" hole. from the center of that hole back 1" drill another 9/16" hole. then cut out center. this will allow you to move the motor back and foward an inch to your your likings. i dont remember what the pass side was, but it IS different and ill have to get the measurements for you on that one.

The post authored by baddad457 is the one I used to get my motor in. Worked like a charm. I have some pics in my www if that will help any.

And just so everyone knows, any Mustang mount will work. This includes the normal 5.0 mounts as well as the high performance variety such as the ones offered by Energy Suspensions.


EDIT: Credit where credit is due. Baddad457 is D.Hearne now on RPS.

fyi. these mounts wont work on the 98+ 2wd trucks. the steering rack is in the way and it sits too low. but i guess everyone already knows this or we wouldnt be going with brianb31's motor mount adaptor plates.

I'm gonna make this a sticky for a while.

http://www.smalltowncustoms.com/truck/5.0%20swap%20in%20progress/thumbs/tn_med_MustangMountHolesSlotted.JPG

This is my 97 2wd Ranger. Holes are slotted for 95 GT mounts, same as vert mounts. Engine drops right in with these slots, and sits nice and low.

http://www.smalltowncustoms.com/truck/5.0%20swap%20in%20progress/thumbs/tn_med_MustangMountHolesSlotted.JPG

Slotted holes for 'vert mounts - as far back as possible on a 97 2WD.