Hey guys, I've got a '95 ranger with a 3.0L V6 i've been looking into the V8 swap for quite a while. I have a 302-HO and AOD from an '86 Stang GT. Infact I've got the entire car. I plan to change it to a carb'd setup so it shouldnt be hard to do. But I got a few questions so I can junkyard hunt.

1) What vehicle has a sufficient radiator that will fit easily?
2) Will the 8.8 from under the stang fit under the ranger as long as I change the mounting?


Any and all help is appreciated

I think most guys are using the Ranger 4.0 extra cooling radiator (A/C). But if you can afford it I would get a swap radiator to get extra room up front. BeCool sells a nice aluminum one, as well as L&L and Total Performance. The Mustang rear is wider than the Ranger, and will require new mounts etc. I would use your 7.5 for the mean time. I had one in mine for 2 yrs before I swapped it for a 8.8 out of a V6 Ranger. I had an auto and enough motor to run low 14's in the 1/4. You could spend the money on much more needed things like headers that fit a V8 Ranger.

You can use a 95-97 Ranger 4.0 extra cooling radiator, or one from a 95-97 Explorer. The problem is that you'll have to grab all the accessory brackets from a 94-95 Mustang 5.0 or 96-01 Explorer 5.0. The Explorer set is preferred and will give you the most clearance. If you have to use the 86's brackets, you'll need to use one of the swap radiators Lone Ranger mentioned. These radiators fit inside the radiator support instead of behind it, therefore clearing up some room for a fan. When going this route, if you want to keep your A/C, the condensor needs to be mounted in front of the rad support.

If you're on a budget, keep the 7.5 rearend just as Lone Ranger said. You won't have enough traction to break it. :E Rangers have an offset driveline, so the Mustang's centrally located differential is not optimal. The best 8.8 rearend to use is one from a 4.0 Ranger, limited slip of course. Explorers have an 8.8 with disc brakes that will work, but you'll have to relocate the spring perches. The axle rides above the springs on an Explorer and below on a Ranger.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_61_full.jpg

Here is a pic of my BeCool radiator in my 92.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_130_full.jpg

Here it is under the core support.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_60_full.jpg

And here is how much room I have with the swap radiator and Fox mustang brackets.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_52_full.jpg

And here is how I did my A/C condensor.

Watch the piston to valve clearance on that 86 if you ever decide to upgrade to E7TE heads. It'll be damn close as you have true flat top pistions. pinellas50 made me aware of that, there are several threads with pics on the corral...

You can make that 4.0 HD rad work with the 'vert mounts and the accessories that are on that car. I'll be getting my rad shortly, and will post pics of my swap. Mine will be made to work with the long Crown Vic front dress. You're lucky you have the 95, as the lower rad mounts allow you to mount the rad lower down, and further forward. If you trim the underside of your core support slightly you'll tuck that entire 4.0 rad up underneath it.

mnchvgs79 has more info on this, maybe he can share some pics. He's also got a long accessory swap in the works, and used this method to mount his rad.

Here's a pic that I'm slightly embarassed to show, because of the nasty rust, but it'll get cleaned up this Sunday. 4cyl rad is pictured, 4.0 rad is identical except for depth. (5/8" compared to 2-1/4")

http://www.smalltowncustoms.com/truck/5.0%20swap%20in%20progress/thumbs/tn_med_UsingFrontOfRadMountWith4CylRad.jpg
See how the rad is supposed to sit on that rubber bumper? Move that rubber bumper to where the lower rad mount sits in that pic, trim the underside of the core support and it'll tuck right underneath, all the way to the front of the core support.

Here's the pic of what'll need to be trimmed.
http://www.smalltowncustoms.com/truck/5.0%20swap%20in%20progress/thumbs/tn_med_NeedToCutCoreSupport.jpg
The core support is about 3-1/2" deep underneath there. The 4.0 rad should only take up the front 2-1/2" of that, leaving you with an extra inch.

That pulley in the 2nd pic about 2" away from the imaginary line straight down from the back edge of the core support. I should have 3" of room.

...You're lucky you have the 95, as the lower rad mounts allow you to mount the rad lower down, and further forward...

I'm not understanding how you could do that. The 95+ core supports have lower rad mounts because they have taller radiators. They do not sit any closer to the support than older models.

Edit: Alright Kevin, go ahead and edit your post with pictures and an explaination of how to do it while I type this. You'll make me feel stupid, but you go right ahead.

And that's why you don't use the stock mounting location. See my first pic? The rad isn't sitting where it did from the factory.

Gimme a sec.

Hope this clears it up. It sits about an inch lower than "stock".
http://www.smalltowncustoms.com/truck/Misc%20pictures/radmount.jpg

Edit: Alright Kevin, go ahead and edit your post with pictures and an explaination of how to do it while I type this. You'll make me feel stupid, but you go right ahead.

lol :hug:

hey guys thanks a lot for the information I'll call the junkyards over in Shreveport and see about getting one of those radiators and an 8.8 from a Ranger or Explorer.

Watch the piston to valve clearance on that 86 if you ever decide to upgrade to E7TE heads. It'll be damn close as you have true flat top pistions. pinellas50 made me aware of that, there are several threads with pics on the corral...

You can make that 4.0 HD rad work with the 'vert mounts and the accessories that are on that car. I'll be getting my rad shortly, and will post pics of my swap. Mine will be made to work with the long Crown Vic front dress. You're lucky you have the 95, as the lower rad mounts allow you to mount the rad lower down, and further forward. If you trim the underside of your core support slightly you'll tuck that entire 4.0 rad up underneath it.

mnchvgs79 has more info on this, maybe he can share some pics. He's also got a long accessory swap in the works, and used this method to mount his rad.

Here's a pic that I'm slightly embarassed to show, because of the nasty rust, but it'll get cleaned up this Sunday. 4cyl rad is pictured, 4.0 rad is identical except for depth. (5/8" compared to 2-1/4")

http://www.smalltowncustoms.com/truck/5.0%20swap%20in%20progress/thumbs/tn_med_UsingFrontOfRadMountWith4CylRad.jpg
See how the rad is supposed to sit on that rubber bumper? Move that rubber bumper to where the lower rad mount sits in that pic, trim the underside of the core support and it'll tuck right underneath, all the way to the front of the core support.

Here's the pic of what'll need to be trimmed.
http://www.smalltowncustoms.com/truck/5.0%20swap%20in%20progress/thumbs/tn_med_NeedToCutCoreSupport.jpg
The core support is about 3-1/2" deep underneath there. The 4.0 rad should only take up the front 2-1/2" of that, leaving you with an extra inch.

That pulley in the 2nd pic about 2" away from the imaginary line straight down from the back edge of the core support. I should have 3" of room.



You pretty much nailed it with your post, if there is any specific pictures anyone needs to see I can get them for you, just email me or something.

hahahah try this on a Bronco II.....little different.
I am in the radiator stage of my conversion.
I may chop up the support, ONYL because I eventually plan to run a tube engine cage/truck cage through there anyways....
I have a 4.0L HD and a 97 5.0L Explorer rad to play with....I would love to save some $$$ and use the stock 5.0L radiator...if I can make it fit under the support, but on a BII this looks a little more tricky then whats posted in this thread...pics soon

410, I chose to cut the top support instead of the bottom like some guys do. I felt the bottom support was more important structurally than the top since it is what also connects the body to the body mounts. Besides, it was easier to reach the top with the shears. LOL

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/gallery/data/533/508Mvc-864s-med.jpg

I had to trim off the radiator's lower mounts, but that wasn't a big deal with a sawzall. I am able to use the stock 2.9L shroud and a mechanical fan with it done like this. :)

hahahah try this on a Bronco II.....little different.
I am in the radiator stage of my conversion.
I may chop up the support, ONYL because I eventually plan to run a tube engine cage/truck cage through there anyways....
I have a 4.0L HD and a 97 5.0L Explorer rad to play with....I would love to save some $$$ and use the stock 5.0L radiator...if I can make it fit under the support, but on a BII this looks a little more tricky then whats posted in this thread...pics soon


I used the HD radiator in my B2 and cut nothing on the core support and still had plenty of room. I'm not sure why you're saying you're having trouble with it.

Alright guys, I bought my radiator my choice was the radiator out of a '97 5.0 explorer

Alright guys, I bought my radiator my choice was the radiator out of a '97 5.0 explorer

I dont think its going to fit.... Uhm I could swear thats what I bought the first time and it was too wide.... I dunno now.

the 97 Explorer 5.0L radiator is much taller then the 4.0L unit, a little wider too.
I have both in the shop.

Brandon how in the world did you fit the 4.0L HD radiator in there? remember I am running the mechanical fan and clutch on the 5.0L, all from a 979 Explorer, I tow so electric is not for me.....

Did you put your engine further back? My 5.0L is using the L&L mounts and is about as far back as its going to go :)

Any input is appriciated, these conversion radiators are expensive and I already have a 4.0L HD unit, also a 97 5.0L unit......

Brandon how in the world did you fit the 4.0L HD radiator in there? remember I am running the mechanical fan and clutch on the 5.0L, all from a 979 Explorer, I tow so electric is not for me.....

Did you put your engine further back? My 5.0L is using the L&L mounts and is about as far back as its going to go :)

Any input is appriciated, these conversion radiators are expensive and I already have a 4.0L HD unit, also a 97 5.0L unit......


Ahh didn't know you were running a mechanical fan. I was running and electric fan with my setup. I had the 4.0 HD radiator and the '94 Stang accessories.

Mechanical fan is exactly why I went ahead and modified the core support in mine. I wanted a mech fan and was sick of dealing with space 'issues'. LOL

Mechanical fan, spacer, v belts and stock 2.9L shroud in stock location

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/gallery/data/500/508MVC-863S-med.JPG

Gained 3.25 inches of room, and if my measurements are close I should have about 2.75" between water pump snout and rad.

Pics.

Rad mounted under core support.
http://www.smalltowncustoms.com/truck/5.0%20swap%20in%20progress/thumbs/tn_med_4L-rad-under-core-support.JPG

8" clearance between front of block face and rad, with rad mounted as it was meant to be...behind core support.
http://www.smalltowncustoms.com/truck/5.0%20swap%20in%20progress/thumbs/tn_med_rad-stock-mounting-clearance.JPG

11.25" clearance between front of block face and rad, with rad mounted under core support.
http://www.smalltowncustoms.com/truck/5.0%20swap%20in%20progress/thumbs/tn_med_rad-under-core-mounting-clearance.JPG

Worked pretty damn well, just need to fab up a simple bracket underneath to secure the bottom of the rad.

Kevin

**Edit**
The rad cap fits on there just fine too, no hacking holes in the top of the support to add coolant. :thumbsup:

More info about how this was done is available here.
http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=147253