well i'm on the final leg of my 5.0 swap and i was goin through testing the pins in my bronco II today and I have read on fordfuelinjection.com that pin 30 is supposed to be grounded when your truck is in park or neutral. well I haven't wired my tranny up to ANYTHING and I am already gettin a ground @ pin 30. I'm not sure what I have done with this wire. in my 88 bronco II I had a wire from the original bronco II harness/ECC that went from plug c10f (somethin like that) to pin 30 on my bronco II's computer. I assumed this was still neutral drive wired because ford kept there ECCs the same for the most part. did i screw up? the wired I connected pin 30 to was light green. tahnx guys

Pin 30 through me for a loop too.

There is a real good schematic on there. I honestly don't remember exactly how I did it at this point. But it does need to tie into the NSS.

I had a pretty large post going on TRS about it back when I was doing the wiring. But that is all gone after the site crashed. All I can tell you is I followed what was on fordfuelinjection.com and it worked fine.

If needed you can use a relay hooked up through the nss to give pin 30 a ground. I am going to tackle that today. I'll let you know how it goes.

is there somethin @ fordfuelinjection.com that i missed? all I found about nds wiring was the "no code problems" and it said to make sure pin 30 was grounded while in park/nuetral

were does everybody have this lt. green wire @ c10f going to? what is it supposed to be wired up for/ what's its purpose?

new info: on my truck.....when the battery is hooked up the R/LB wire from the bronco II (in the round 4 pin tranny plug) gets 12v when the key is turned to cranking. i traced the R/LB under the dash and it went to the CPP jumper. where does it go after that???? anywayz......the wire I have no clue on is R/Y and it doesn't get ground or 12v at anytime from what i can tell. i went back and looked at where that R/LB wire went in my bronco II harness, and it went to the tranny PNP switch and it had a factory splice off of it to pin 30 on my bronco II EEC...........i thought pin 30 was supposed to be grounded....not have 12v crank only!?!?!?!?!

ps-have backup lamps figured out so no more worries about them. but i that lt. green wire i was talking about earlier was INCORRECTLY hooked up to the NDS......it actually went to pin 31 on my bronco II EEC and that means it is a canister purse wire..........but I already have the 5.0's canister purge hooked up so do i not need this green wire? the wiring harness i'm using doesn't have a wire from the canister purge that goes through the firewall in any place except for the EEC.

at this point i am wishing i had a carb....... :banghead:

Actually, I think I looked more at the wiring diagram for the 5.0 Mustang in order to get all that sorted out. I don't have those diagrams anymore either. I wish I could remember exactly how I did it. Sorry. I had alot of trouble cause I had initially wanted to bypass the NSS.(It's a long story) When I decided to incorporate it, the wiring went smoothly.

*applying magic remembering potion to your forehead*

Haaaa. I already forgot what I had for breakfast, so you are probably gonna be out of luck on that one.

if i get you the diagrams for a mustang would it spark your memory to what you did? I know a site that has them all there.............

Send them my way and let's see what happens.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19075&hl=pin+30

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9224&hl=pin+30

Those are from TRS. I can't get the search function to do anything here for this.

Sounds like the crank/run circuit...I think that was R/B goes into one side of the NSS. Coming out of the NSS continues the crank circuit. But you also splice Pin 30 into the circuit after the NSS. That's what I seem to remember.

Let's take a look at the diagrams you have and see if that is accurate.

My truck was a 5 speed and had the clutch position sensor on the clutch pedal. I might have tied into those wires. One was G/R if memory serves.

If I get the time, I'll try to see what my wires look like. I wrapped most of them up pretty good so I might not get very far with that approach.

here are the diagrams i've been looking at-
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

right now i'm am thinking about just grounding pin 30 to the body and then running the starter solenoid acivating wire through the neutral saftey......that way no matter what, it can't start w/o bein in neutral or park

are we sure pin 30 in automatic 5.0 mustang computers has to be grounded in park/neutral????

The third one would be the one to look at. If it were legible!

OK. I saved it and can zoom in on it. It looks like the auto should be a hot wire and the manual it's a ground. That doesn't make sense.

Let me look at mine tonight and try to figure out what I did.

on the link you gave me earlier they were saying that it should be 12v crank only @ pin 30.........and thats the way my original bronco II pin 30 was set up!

That's my understanding from the diagram.

I tore my truck up as much as I could for you. Most everything is wrapped up tight. Have you been able to determine what color wire Pin30 even is on the Mustang harness. It looks like purple/yellow on mine. But it's hard to tell. If so, that wire runs out the pass side into the engine bay.

I can tell you that all 4 wire from the tranny go up into the truck harness on the driver's side. None go directly into the cab. Things are buried from there. But I do see two wires I added coming back from that location into the cab. One splices into a tan/green wire coming out of the computer and that wire runs out the pass side.

It looks like a total of 6 wires come from the driver's side engine compartment and enter the cab. All 6 go directly to the computer connections. It looks like 2 are ground wires based on they are black. I tried to use black for grounds and colored wires for hots.

With the clutch position sensor, that had 4 wires going to it. I cut the R/B and the pink wires on it and spliced them directly together. The other 2, gray/red and a light blue wire were not used.

One of those 6 wires coming in on the driver's side goes to the A/C switch. Another goes to the large gray/yellow which is the O2 sensors heat power wires.

If you have an actual Mustang diagram, try to see what the wire for Pin30 does as far as routing and what color it is.

Come to think of it, I see to remember Pin30 being in one of the two main connections. The ones in the engine compartment on the pass side of the Mustang. If memory serves, Pin 30 had some sort of queer looping thing it did in the O2 harness. It went into that harness, didn't go to anything, looped around, and came back out. And wire colors changed in that loop.

Does that sound right?

thanx for going to so much trouble, i really appriciate it. I just finished it up, ford from factory sends 12v crank only to pin 30, and thats the way my bronco II harness was set up to do, and thats what i will be resetting it up like, a guy on TRS has done this a few times and had success so i will try it that way. Thanks a bunch i'll let you know how it goes!
-Austin


-as hooked up now everyhting works correctly, pin 4 on the TFI plug is gettin crank only, my starter solenoid is cycling and so i should be all good, i'll just have to cross my fingers, plug in the computer, and see what happens.

Sweeet!

Kevin...is this sticky material?

its official! well kinda..........i plugged in my computer today and the fuel pump primed, the starter solenoid cycles (haven't connected starter yet cuz i didn't want the engine turning without everything else goin!), and as far as I can tell the neutral safety is functioning flawlessly........just to clear it up i'll tell everyone exactly what i did....

I located the 12v crank only wire that was in the transmission harness wired it down to the neutral safety, so it closed the circuit when in park/neutral. On the return wire from the neutral safety (now only gets 12v crank only when in park/neutral) I spliced it into the 12v crank only wire (that sends power to the TFI and the starter solenoid) and I also spliced it to computer pin 30...........so the computer sees 12v crank only when in park/neutral. I'm almost 100% sure it'll work, but we'll see when I get my fuel leak fixed (o-ring between the injector and the rail is leaking on 1 injector). I thank everyone at TRS and at RPS for their help.

Sweeet!

Kevin...is this sticky material?

I'd say so, lots of good info here.

its official, it works for real! started it up today, 12v crank only works! thanx alot!

I thought that pin 30 requires +12v to start a automatic computer. Or ground to start on a manual transmission. I done alot of research connecting the wiring when I swapped the motor in my truck. On my truck I used the stock pnp switch with the aod and stock ranger wiring going to the switch. But my 4 low would not work. I traced it back to the pnp switch. The switch in the aod was made without the extra pin to send ground signal only to the transfer case controler. I swapped pnp switches with the a4ld and evrything works great.

I thought that pin 30 requires +12v to start a automatic computer. Or ground to start on a manual transmission.

Correct.

This might be of help. The main job of the neutral drive switch (also known as neutral safety) is to keep you from starting your engine with your automatic transmission in a gear other that park or neutral, and has nothing to do with the computer. As a second job, this NDS circuit is used by the computer (connected to pin 30) so that EEC IV can increase engine idle speed slightly when not in neutral or park - this allows the engine to run smoother at these times. I'm not sure why it is used at all for a manual transmission. Anyway, it will pump out a KOEO code 67 if pin 30 is not connected to the NDS circuit. On '88 to '91 V8 EEC wiring, all you need to do is tee the computer pin 30 wire into the NDS circuit which goes from the transmission to the ignition switch, and no more code 67. That's what I did on mine, and the code went away. I was never able to start it other than in park or neutral even though I had pin 30 connected wrong at first.