Well I've saved my pennies and I'm going to get a Zex Nitrous Wet kit #82023 for my Ranger. I've done some searching on here and found the old threads for the dry kits but the pictures aren't there anymore.

My first question is to those who used the Zex kits where did you mount your control modules under the hood? My second question is the blowdown tubes. How did you seal them against the floor?

Thanks!

I can tell you about the blow down tube. The ones offered by the different companies won't work if you are putting this in the cab. I have mine behind the seats in my 92 standard cab.

You will have to use braided hose. One end connects to the safety vavle on the bottle obviously. You will have to get what they call a bulkhead for the other end. It goes through the floor and secures from the outside. Then you attach the braided to the bulkhead. That way, if the vavle ever does pop, the braided hose won't be floppin all over the place with the pressure.

Got any pics pinellas. Im buying a NOS cheater system next weekend. Im planning on mounting mine set back between the seats. Also going to pick up the C4 too. NATE

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_64_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_63_full.jpg

I haven't actually done the blowback tube on it yet. I was at the store last week looking into this very issue so I was passing on what I found.

thats nice , anyone got any tips to get a used wet kit maby around 200 ? not on ebay

Have any problems with the bottle mounted that way yet?? they are supposed to be mounted front to back (hard in a ranger std. carb for sure).

Brad M

Yeah I noticed that as well. If I do mine inside the cab I'll do it front to back because I have a supercab.


Have any problems with the bottle mounted that way yet?? they are supposed to be mounted front to back (hard in a ranger std. carb for sure).

Brad M

Where do you pick up the braided hose? I'm assuming you get a bulkhead fitting from Lowes or HD. Is there a way to plug them in the winter?



I can tell you about the blow down tube. The ones offered by the different companies won't work if you are putting this in the cab. I have mine behind the seats in my 92 standard cab.

You will have to use braided hose. One end connects to the safety vavle on the bottle obviously. You will have to get what they call a bulkhead for the other end. It goes through the floor and secures from the outside. Then you attach the braided to the bulkhead. That way, if the vavle ever does pop, the braided hose won't be floppin all over the place with the pressure.

The bottle can be mounted like this. It just has to be positioned correctly. It's in the instruction books. I have had no problems. Well, none associated with the bottle orientation. My ability to tune it and not melt down the motor is another story!

The braided line and bulkhead are all NOS stuff.

Brian, Summit, Jegs or Ramchargers for the hose. You need AN fittings for this stuff. I would not recommend anything less. The small size will be inexpensive.

T

So are you required to have the blow off tube on there if its mounted in the cab for certain race track requirements or what. NATE

So are you required to have the blow off tube on there if its mounted in the cab for certain race track requirements or what. NATE


Yeah, I am not currently running one, but I need to get one. Mine is mounted the same way only behind the passenger seat so I can reach it on the street..... Not that I would ever do that ;)

Are you guys running a purge on your setups. And how do you have it wired up.
For the cheater system im looking at im going to run it through a large toggle to a push button to the WOT microswitch on my carb to the solenoid. it will also go to my crane cam igntion retard box. NATE

Many tracks will require it. My local one doesn't even look at your vehicle before you run.

Gopher, I can reach mine very easily on the street.....Not that I have ever tried either....No need for a remote bottle opener.

I have a bottle heater(not in picture) and no purge. I have the nitrous on a toggle that runs through a micro switch on the throttle body. A different toggle for the heater. Right now, I was setting timing the old fashioned way.

You can use the blowdown tubes most nitrous companies sell, but they are a pain to work with and get the hole correct. I suggest using a small length of braided line for this. Braided line will meet all NHRA & IHRA requiremnets for a blow down tube, and is more flexible and easier to work with. I personally have my bottles mounted facing the front of the truck where the passenger seat should be, but they can also be mounted like pinellas has, and can even be mounted standing straight up.
Get a length of braided 8AN line (mine is about 18-20" long) and you'll need 2 8AN hose ends (I have a straight hose end, and a 90 degree hose end). You'll also need a 8AN bulkhead fitting (to be mounted in the floor) and a 8AN lock nut for that bulkhead fitting (they sell seperatly I believe). The hose isn't that expensive, and the fittings are cheap, but the hose ends are a bit. The straight hose ends are like $8 but the 90 degree hose ends are around $20 I think.
If done properly, you will have no sealing problems and a track accepted and easy to work with blowdown tube.

Many tracks will require it. My local one doesn't even look at your vehicle before you run.

Gopher, I can reach mine very easily on the street.....Not that I have ever tried either....No need for a remote bottle opener.

I have a bottle heater(not in picture) and no purge. I have the nitrous on a toggle that runs through a micro switch on the throttle body. A different toggle for the heater. Right now, I was setting timing the old fashioned way.


Yeah I am running a purge, I have it wired to a momentary toggle.

the real reason I mounted it on th epassengetr side is I lost about 2 seat clicks that I couldn't afford to loose on the drivers side (6'0" 220 lbs).

I guess I need to clarify what I said earlier. The normal blow down tube won't work with the bottle positioned the way I have it. It would probably work with the bottle mounted in different positions.

Ok I'm looking more at installing it in the bed because I still have to "use" my supercab because I haul my kids around and I don't want to them to damage the brackets or fitting. Plus they give plenty of suppy hose from the bottle to the control unit.

My question would be since I run with my toneau cover closed I'd assume I'd still need a blowdown hose to vent under the bed ,but I'm concerned if I mount the bottle on the passenger side the blowdown would be right over the exhaust and that wouldn't be pretty. Is it ok to have it come down through the bed and then have a 90 degree fitting and more hose so if it does pop it would spray out the side of the frame?

The NMRA website rules don't go into detail.

Should be no problem with exhaust proximity.

Now, all this talk about Nitrous has got me thinking of a small shot with the supercharger :) :) :) How much total cost for a simple wet kit?

Ok I'm looking more at installing it in the bed because I still have to "use" my supercab because I haul my kids around and I don't want to them to damage the brackets or fitting. Plus they give plenty of suppy hose from the bottle to the control unit.

My question would be since I run with my toneau cover closed I'd assume I'd still need a blowdown hose to vent under the bed ,but I'm concerned if I mount the bottle on the passenger side the blowdown would be right over the exhaust and that wouldn't be pretty. Is it ok to have it come down through the bed and then have a 90 degree fitting and more hose so if it does pop it would spray out the side of the frame?

The NMRA website rules don't go into detail.

If you mount the bottle "outside of the driver compartment", you DO NOT have to run a blowdown tube. I had mine mounted in the bed of my Lightning the whole time I had it, and even had it mounted in the bed of my Race Ranger for over a full season before moving it inside. I never ran a blowdown with it mounted in the bed, as it is not mandated by NHRA, IHRA, or NMRA.
The purpose of the blowdown is to vent the nitrous out of the driver compartment in a situation where the burst disc in the bottle pops. The disc that is installed in ALL aftermarket nitrous systems bottles are 3000psi burst discs, and will not relaese unless it reaches 3000psi. I personally have never had a bottle over 1500, and also have never seen a burst disc rupture.

You should be fine with the bottle in the bed, without a blowdown.

If you mount the bottle "outside of the driver compartment", you DO NOT have to run a blowdown tube. I had mine mounted in the bed of my Lightning the whole time I had it, and even had it mounted in the bed of my Race Ranger for over a full season before moving it inside. I never ran a blowdown with it mounted in the bed, as it is not mandated by NHRA, IHRA, or NMRA.
The purpose of the blowdown is to vent the nitrous out of the driver compartment in a situation where the burst disc in the bottle pops. The disc that is installed in ALL aftermarket nitrous systems bottles are 3000psi burst discs, and will not relaese unless it reaches 3000psi. I personally have never had a bottle over 1500, and also have never seen a burst disc rupture.

You should be fine with the bottle in the bed, without a blowdown.

Exactly.

Ok, I wanted to be safe and legal when I race :) I can put the cost of the blowdown towards that cool rapid fire purge :)

I joined the club today. Got a nitrous express Hitman kit, good from 100-200HP, Was looking at the NOS cheater system, It was 424$ the Hitman was 339$, So with the money differnce i got a purge for it, the parts for my braided stainless blowdown tube.
NATE

Heres the kit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00550.jpg

This Aeromotive A1000 pump should supply enough fuel :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00547.jpg

Also got some more autometer gauges, A tach and vacum gauge, I will get a few others once i decide if im gettign that C4. A trans temp, nitrous press, and a Pyrometer.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00549.jpg

Also got some more autometer gauges, A tach and vacum gauge, I will get a few others once i decide if im gettign that C4. A trans temp, nitrous press, and a Pyrometer.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00549.jpg


Excellant kit man.

Don't waste your money on a pyrometer, you have no need for it. Get something like fuel pressure or oil pressure (fuel pressure is VERY important on a N20 setup).

I have oil press and water temp in my a pillar im molding gauges in the radio bezel. My fuel pressure is on the regulator in the engine bay Although my press shouldnt drop since my setup is designed to handle over 1200 carbed HP, Yes just a little over kill i know. Im going to get a speedo but i need to figure out if i can use A mechanical, cause the electric one with sender is almost 300 Bucks. i heard a pyrometer is good for tuning, Its like a A/F ratio gauge , i just wish i would have bought a fuel cell with a sender in it so that would be another gauge that would be handy. Im gettignt he engine ready to pull back out to replace the rear main seal and Hopefully put that C4 in. NATE

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00552.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00553.jpg

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Does anyone have pics of how there purges are routed to vent, Got the solenoids wired up today, Gonna start fiberglassing my console and bezel tomorrow. I got all of my braided stainless brake lines done also. NATE

Anyone? NATE

Hey, if this reg is mounted to the firewall you might want to move it to the fenderwell as I believe it is an NHRA no-no to mount the reg to the firewall.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00552.jpg

Realy, hmm, if i take it to the track are they realy going to look at stuff like that.it will probably only go to the track a couple of times. mostly takin it to car shows. I realy dont feel like making new lines to move it else where. NATE

If it an IHRA or NHRA sanctioned track, they will more than likely check it at tech-in. That reg location is pretty obvious when you openthe hood...

No pass tech, no race truck!

Do you have a link to the website with all of the requirements. NATE

No I don't and apparently the NHRA rules are not available in pdf format... arrg. If I find anything out I'll let you know.

The 2005 rule book is avail off nhra's site for $10.

alright thanks, NATE

I *did* find out it has to be 6" from the firewall in the event of transmission/flexplate/flywheel failure. They don't want a flywheel to frag the bellhousing and take out the fuel system causing a fire.

So what if your using a SFI approved, Scatterproof bellhousing. I guess im gonna have to figure out wear to relocate it.good thing i can reuse these lines for the fuel cell. But back to the speed shop to buy another 10ft roll of -8 for 50$ :banghead: guess i might as well get it done right. Thanks, NATE

SFI bell or not, they require it. Better safe than bar-b-qued in my book.

yeah. I think im going to mount it on the front of the heater box. NATE

Funny thing is the fuel line has to cross the flywheel plane to get to the engine! Does it have to be protected by frame rail?

yeah i was just thinking about that too. NATE

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/16c6c91a.jpg

Funny thing is the fuel line has to cross the flywheel plane to get to the engine! Does it have to be protected by frame rail?


Depends I have yet to be at a track that enforced it as long as you used common sense...... IE if it is braided line run safe and protected either in the frame or on the opposite side, or at least run in a safe manor (IE secured with SFI bell and a shield around the line)...... basically you show that you have tried, and they won't fail you until you start running low 10's in the 1/4. As far as the regulater The best place is on the carb mounting area.

LOL.. yeah it is *supposed* to be outside the frame rail or encased within an 1/8" thick steel tube, withing 12" of the firewall plane or something like that. I sure wish I had a copy of that rule book. Maybe I'll cough up the $10 for the IHRA one as my local track is IHRA sanctioned. I've seen some pics of exploded tranny's and stuff and man, it isn't pretty. Certainly don't need fuel added to the mix!

LOL.. yeah it is *supposed* to be outside the frame rail or encased within an 1/8" thick steel tube, withing 12" of the firewall plane or something like that. I sure wish I had a copy of that rule book. Maybe I'll cough up the $10 for the IHRA one as my local track is IHRA sanctioned. I've seen some pics of exploded tranny's and stuff and man, it isn't pretty. Certainly don't need fuel added to the mix!


I agree 100% I have an uncle that put a '69 z28 back togather and that is the reason it was parked in the barn when it was it took out the floor board when the clutch exploded.

so what about the stock ranger fuel lines they run right along the inner frame rail. NATE

so what about the stock ranger fuel lines they run right along the inner frame rail. NATE


That is what I am running right now and like I said I have never seen it questioned because where they run provides a good amount of protection.

Well I got everything wired up. I just need to loom everything. I think it came out pretty good, Had to modify the microswitch bracket cause it was made for mechanical secondaries. i need to figure out were to vent the purge.NATE

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00578.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00579.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00581.jpg
Also got a lokar throttle cable, universal one, Apdapted very easy to the ranger pedal. Looks realy good
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00575.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00576.jpg

Looks tight guy, good luck with the spray. If you have any tuning issues, let me know, I'm pretty good with it. I'm assuming you know the basics, but let me lend this one comment out that you should definitly remember......."Don't get greedy with the pills!".
I saw your sig says "200 shot". I STRONGLY recomend starting smaller, about a 100 or so, and work your way up from there, but make sure you pull your plugs and tune for it.
Personally, I'm not hitting my race truck with anywhere near that. I have both stages wired up and a total of about 200 is in both kicks, but I normally only run the single stage. If you have a stock block, be careful with the jetting. As the saying goes "pill it till ya kill it", which is real easy to do on the smallblock fords. I've cracked enough to know when to say when with the magic box of jets.

Good luck though, the setup looks real clean!

Yeah, Im running the dual plane manifold, which the guy at the speed shop said will not distrubute Nitrous in large shots like above 150 very well. so yeah im gonna start at 100 shot. Im also running the crane cams ignition retard box with my setup. And a set of colder plugs. How much timing would you reccomend i retard. Its wrieed to retard when the solenoids are activated. Thanks for the comments. NATE

Yeah, Im running the dual plane manifold, which the guy at the speed shop said will not distrubute Nitrous in large shots like above 150 very well. so yeah im gonna start at 100 shot. Im also running the crane cams ignition retard box with my setup. And a set of colder plugs. How much timing would you reccomend i retard. Its wrieed to retard when the solenoids are activated. Thanks for the comments. NATE


For a 100 shot, go 1 step colder in plugs (gapped around .30 is best), and retard your timing 4 degrees. Rule of thumb is 2 degrees for every 50 shot, you can play with that a little depending on the weather, but I wouldn't recommend doing so unless absolutly necessary like in heads up racing.
A dual plane isn't the best idea, and an Edelbrock Victor Jr or Super Victor are the best flowing intakes out there especially for nitrous.
You have the timing wired correctly, you want it to pull only when the system is activated.
I run the MSD timing retard box with my MSD distributor completly locked out, meaning there is no advance (mechanical or vacuum). I have my base timing set at 36 degrees, then pull whatever I need from the retard box when the nitrous is activated. You can opt to not use a timing retard box, and pull all you need from the distibutor up front, but in larger shots the motor will have a hard time down low, then have a big nitrous backfire when the system engages. Been there, done that.

I know a dual plane isnt the best for nitrous but if i put. A open style manifold , The guy at the speed shop said i will lose alot of my low end power. This a street truck that will go to the track on occasion. If i decide to start spraying it hard, I will install some foggers and such in the manifold. .030'' for the spark plugs? Seems like a small gap. Also my crane distributor is set up so i have 24* advance by 3,000rpm. I will just dial in on the retard dial for 4* retard. Thanks for the info, Do you have any pics of how your purge vent is routed. Thanks, NATE

I know a dual plane isnt the best for nitrous but if i put. A open style manifold , The guy at the speed shop said i will lose alot of my low end power. This a street truck that will go to the track on occasion. If i decide to start spraying it hard, I will install some foggers and such in the manifold. .030'' for the spark plugs? Seems like a small gap. Also my crane distributor is set up so i have 24* advance by 3,000rpm. I will just dial in on the retard dial for 4* retard. Thanks for the info, Do you have any pics of how your purge vent is routed. Thanks, NATE

.032-.035 gap is what I am using. I would really play with the timing, I think you need more advance. I am sitting on 12* initial and either 28 or 30 (can;t remember off the top of my head) by 3000 that is just for the first little bit when I get it tuned right and possible a knock sensor I am going to try upping it a little bit more.

As far as the purge no pics, but on mine I have the solinoid mounted directly to the n2o 'noid and then hard brake line run up to the hood and then rubber line from there to more brake line that runs to the scoop openings in the hood. Doesn't look bad at all (I know it sounds ghetto) but it actually looks profeshional... I would get pics but I have it dissasembled right now while I paint the hood and I am either going to polish it or paint it black.

Alright, I have mine going to the noid too, I was wondering if i can juust put a rubber line going from the purge to the washer fluid squirters, since im not using them. As far as the timing i stuck with the variable settings on my crane distributor. Check out the link below, If you scroll down you will see all of my options for advance curves. Also arent most people running 14-16* base timing on there stangs. Thanks for the input guys.NATE

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/90001500.pdf

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00582.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/showImage.jpg

[QUOTE=95Rangerxlt]. Also arent most people running 14-16* base timing on there stangs. Thanks for the input guys.NATE
/QUOTE]

Purge should be fine the way you are talking... I guess the squirters can handel it........

Yeah they are but they aren't running nitrous and I don't have an in cab adjuster yet so......

That intake should be good for street use then, but don't get greedy with the jetting.
It's been our experience with SBF's on the dyno, that they like between 34-36 degrees of total timing. Retard from there, 4 degrees for the 100 shot. Always use your total timing (or advanced) to set your nitrous system, as you will (or SHOULD) only be hitting the spray at WOT.
A .30 gap is just perfect, maybe up to a .35 at the most as the nitrous will blow out the spark. I was running .32 on my 351W street truck with no problems, and now run around .30 on my Race Ranger.
My purge comes out of the main feed line right before the split for both stages, and has a dual vent with copper line running into the cowl from the wiper motor area, then up through the slots in the cowl.

Alright thanks guys, So if i have my distributor set up for 24* advance i can set my base timing at 12* and drop right on 36*. what part number plugs are you guys running, Thanks Again, NATE

As far as WOT, noids will only come on after this is switched.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/natelammers/DSC00579.jpg