View Full Version : M90 Eaton Supercharger on 4.0L SOHC


rpcaster
Apr 23 2005, 10:45am
Thanks to Brian McKelvey's Supercharger Installation Instructions, I've just completed the install of the M90 Eaton Supercharger from a T-Bird Supercoupe to my 2002 Ford Ranger 4.0L. Everything went well and had (no) problem with engine "trouble light". Only question left is Where to mount and connect the (sender) unit for the (fuel pressure gauge)? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Ron

Brian Mckelvey
Apr 23 2005, 08:57pm
Where to mount and connect the (sender) unit for the (fuel pressure gauge)?

Couple options are ....

1. Put a "T" in the fitting on the fuel rail for the test valve.

2. Put it in the back of one of the fuel rails. You can use an 1/8 NPT tap and put it right in the cover plate.

fzr confused
Apr 24 2005, 09:04am
how much work did this take? and how much $$$ approx was it?

rpcaster
Apr 24 2005, 02:07pm
This was installed over a 4 day period, with a learning curve. Have not broken out all costs yet, but will soon. Some costs not previously covered are the "Boost", "Fuel Pressure" gauges, Pillar mount came to about $300.00. I used Autometer "Lunar". M90 Eaton Supercoup Supercharger from Ebay about $200.00, Supercharger to Head manifold about $550.00, Supercharger to throttle body intake about $150.00, Bypass $90.00. You'll have another $150.00 in misc. parts. So that roughly totals out about $1,450.00. I made my manifold from aluminum. It can be made less expensive with steel. Brian McKelvey has an excellent fabrication and installation instructions at http://www.rangerpowersports.com/tech/40/super/sohc/40_SOHC_SC.htm

You can also see some pictures on my Web Page, www.candmnovelties.com

regards, Ron

rpcaster
Apr 24 2005, 02:18pm
Couple options are ....

1. Put a "T" in the fitting on the fuel rail for the test valve.

2. Put it in the back of one of the fuel rails. You can use an 1/8 NPT tap and put it right in the cover plate.

Brian,
Thanks again for the information. This set up really performs well. I'm using the stock 3" pully and develops about 5 1/2 lbs boost. Will break tires loose from a dead stop, and pull real steady and strong under boost thru the gears with my automatic.
Regards, Ron

6pack
May 04 2005, 07:02am
I am in the process of doing the M90 also. What brand gauges did you get?
The manifold looks really nice. Did you fab the manifold yourself or have someone else do it and do you have any dimensions from your work? I am having a guy fab mine but since I can't give him my engine to do the work I need to give him as detailed information that I can so he can get it right.
Thanks!

rpcaster
May 04 2005, 08:23pm
Paul
I purchased autometer "lunar" vacuum/boost & fuel pressure and 2 gauge pod.
Yes we did fab the manifold and also intend to market them. I have referenced my website in my second post if you wish additional information. I purchased the "stock" intake manifold to use as a pattern at a cost around $150.00. It would be best for you to give him your manifold, as dimensions are critical. Height must be minimal as my stock hood clears by less than 1/2". You will be pleased with the performance. Don't forget to include a by-pass valve when using M90.
Good Luck, Ron

6pack
May 05 2005, 07:35am
I PM'd you!
I like the gauges. I have an FX4 Level II and it has a silver/gray gauge color. Does anyone know a type like that? I would like to match the stock ones.
What type of hood do you have? I have the power dome that sticks up an inch or so over the standard hood.
Thanks!

Brian Mckelvey
May 05 2005, 11:40am
If any one is interested I have the M90 and SOHC Intake from my last installation before I put on the MP112. I ran this for a while and it worked flawlessly with the stock fuel system. What I have is the supercharger, aluminum stock intakes from the TB to the S/C intake, aluminum intake from the S/C to the manifold intake, S/C mount and maniflod, bypass valve and S/C nose support. I also have the TB adapter to mount the IAC valve. I have it with either the 7# or 10# pulleys.

Need money for my next project ... I'll let the whole setup go for $450. I also have it listed in the classifieds. E-mail me.

fzr confused
May 05 2005, 11:43am
brian, u got a pm :)

6pack
May 05 2005, 02:13pm
I pm'd, emailed, posted and sent out a couple carrier pigeons. I want it if you still have it!

Brian Mckelvey
May 05 2005, 02:50pm
It is gone ... I sold to the first e-mail/PM based on time stamp that said ... "I'll take it where do I send the money".

fzr confused
May 05 2005, 03:08pm
well, i would have loved to bought this, but it makes my decision a lot easier now, i will go with the tv :). thanks for answering my ?'s tho brian :)

6pack
May 05 2005, 07:09pm
My loss. If whomever bought it changes there mind about installing it, send me an email! If I haven't already fabbed my manifold I will buy it from you.
Thanks :)

Back to my question... are there any gauges that are recommended over others? What about electrical over mechanical?
Thanks!

rpcaster
May 05 2005, 09:43pm
I PM'd you!
I like the gauges. I have an FX4 Level II and it has a silver/gray gauge color. Does anyone know a type like that? I would like to match the stock ones.
What type of hood do you have? I have the power dome that sticks up an inch or so over the standard hood.
Thanks!
My hood is the stock xlt, by having the raised hood you may not need to disable the cruise control. I had to grind off the cruise control tab from the throttle body, and remove a small amount of insulation from the hood. Will relocate it later. As for gauges you can go to autometer and view their full selection of gauges.
regards, Ron

Brian Mckelvey
May 06 2005, 08:31am
... are there any gauges that are recommended over others? What about electrical over mechanical?
Thanks!
For the fuel pressure gauge you MUST run an electrical gauge unless the gauge is mounted on the hood outside. Don't want a potential fuel leak INSIDE the truck!
As far as recommended, I have used so many different types ... it is a question of what style you like and how much you want to pay.

6pack
May 06 2005, 09:16am
Okay, thanks for the info. I have been up and down the Autometer list, so many to choose from...

Ron, check your Pm/email. :)

Brian Mckelvey
May 13 2005, 07:06am
You can also see some pictures on my Web Page, www.candmnovelties.com

regards, Ron

Hi Ron, the aluminum intake you made looks real good ... except for one thing. It mounts the supercharger upside down from the way the M90 is mounted in the T-Bird. If you pull the nose assembly off the M90 you will see that there are cast 'ears'/shrouds over the top of the gears to make sure that lubricant stays on those gears when they are spinning at up to 12,000 RPM. When you install the supercharger upside down, these ears are on the bottom side of the supercharger where the lubricant is and they will restrict the lubricant from getting to the gears. If you use this setup I'd suggest removing the nose piece and machining the ears off so that the gears sit in the lubricant and the lubricant can get to the gears easily.

If I was home I would send a picture (I'm back in 2 weeks and I'll post a picture). Don't mount the M90 from a T-Bird upside down unless you machine off those gear shrouds in the nose housing !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is 8:00PM and 95 degrees in Vietnam and humid

rpcaster
May 13 2005, 09:06am
Hi Ron, the aluminum intake you made looks real good ... except for one thing. It mounts the supercharger upside down from the way the M90 is mounted in the T-Bird. If you pull the nose assembly off the M90 you will see that there are cast 'ears'/shrouds over the top of the gears to make sure that lubricant stays on those gears when they are spinning at up to 12,000 RPM. When you install the supercharger upside down, these ears are on the bottom side of the supercharger where the lubricant is and they will restrict the lubricant from getting to the gears. If you use this setup I'd suggest removing the nose piece and machining the ears off so that the gears sit in the lubricant and the lubricant can get to the gears easily.

If I was home I would send a picture (I'm back in 2 weeks and I'll post a picture). Don't mount the M90 from a T-Bird upside down unless you machine off those gear shrouds in the nose housing !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is 8:00PM and 95 degrees in Vietnam and humid
Hi Brian! Thanks for the post and hope your trip goes well!

Prior to starting my installation I contacted "Ed Lower" with "Magnuson" the North American Factory Authorized Remanufacturing Facility, as I had concerns about inverting the M90 also. He assured me that the M90 3rd generation could be installed in any configuration.

I've already mounted it and had it in operation for 3-weeks, aprox 1800miles, so far running like a kitten.

I have another m90 so will remove nose piece and check it out. Looking forward to seeing you pictures.

Thanks for your response and have a safe trip!

Regards, Ron

Brian Mckelvey
May 13 2005, 09:35am
Prior to starting my installation I contacted "Ed Lower" with "Magnuson" the North American Factory Authorized Remanufacturing Facility, as I had concerns about inverting the M90 also. He assured me that the M90 3rd generation could be installed in any configuration.

I have another m90 so will remove nose piece and check it out. Looking forward to seeing you pictures.


The Magnuson M90 3rd generation are different than the Ford T-Bird M90's, I actually used a 3rd Gen on my 2000 Ranger S/C setup. Just a word of caution on the T-Bird M90's, because they might run great for a while, but .... I'd machine off the shroud if I was going to mount one upside down, actually already did one just to test it. Not difficult, you can do it with a hacksaw and grinder. I also drilled a hole in the cover, and threaded it for a plug, to make sure I had a lubricant fill reference hole.

rpcaster
May 13 2005, 11:24am
The Magnuson M90 3rd generation are different than the Ford T-Bird M90's, I actually used a 3rd Gen on my 2000 Ranger S/C setup. Just a word of caution on the T-Bird M90's, because they might run great for a while, but .... I'd machine off the shroud if I was going to mount one upside down, actually already did one just to test it. Not difficult, you can do it with a hacksaw and grinder. I also drilled a hole in the cover, and threaded it for a plug, to make sure I had a lubricant fill reference hole.
Brian,
I appreciate your great advice, will make modifications on my other m90 and then swap them out. I also like your suggestion on the alternate fill hole.

You knowledge and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Regards, Ron

6pack
May 13 2005, 02:58pm
I'm a little lost by the upside down thing. Can you explain it a little better? :huh

rpcaster
May 13 2005, 05:12pm
I'm a little lost by the upside down thing. Can you explain it a little better? :huh

Paul, When the M90 is used in the stock supercoupe the discharge is upward and it mounts to the drivers side. Basically air is suplied to and discharged thru tubes or pipes. You'll also notice that the oil fill is pointing downward so it's necessary to fill with oil prior to install.

Doug wrote an article titled "4.0Why I don't recommend installing the m90 supercoupe supercharger on the SOHC" check it out.

Doug, stated the "top slopes" I have not found this as it is flat and level at least on the 89 thru 93 model with the "oval" inlet. I had no trouble lining up with the pullys and belt.

I like Brian's Idea of adding an accessable oil filler inlet to allow maintenance without removal of the supercharger. Also will check in nose to see about any oil restrictions as Brian referenced above.

"Magnuson" Eaton's factory remanufacturer stated the m90 could be used in any configuration, and many are installed upside down currently.

Brian, has done many installs and is quite knowledgable of the Eaton Superchargers, so I nplan to check out his concerns.

If you have a problem with the M90 you could purchase the MP90 4th generation.

Regards, Ron

6pack
May 13 2005, 06:49pm
Okay, so the charger is not mounted in the same configuration as we see it on our trucks. That puts it `upside down` when we put it on top of our engine.
I have read Dougs article several times but never quite understood that part.
Thanks for the explanation. :)