ok guys i got a 5.0 in my 97 ranger with a t5 gonan be finishing soon whats everyone running for a driveshaft strictly custom or wat i got a extended cab any help will be great thanks

My stock one bolted right up. But each swap tends to be different.

Do you have the two piece shaft deal?

yea gay two piece

does anyone know of a heavier duty carrier bearing for the stock 2 piece driveshaft in an 89 extended cab? mine was replaced a couple of years ago and i haven't put but maybe 4 thousand miles on it with the 4 banger, and with maybe 2 thousand with the 8 the rubber encased bearing is getting torn up.

yea gay two piece
So tell us, What's gay about it ? My "gay" two piece held up to everything I threw at it, till the 331 was put in front. And then the weak link was the cast slip yoke behind the carrier bearing. When it went, the carrier bearing was STILL the original one that came with the truck. The only other weak link was the tiny assed center U joint, broke it twice till I used a "zerkless" joint. Don't be so quick to put down the 2 piece setup, they're stronger than you think.

How did you set your 2 piece up to work Dave. Was it moving the center bearing thing or something. I forget.

***Hi-jacking***
The driveshaft i previously used with the 7.5 doesnt bolt up to my 8.8. What is the part called that i need to find to replace it with. I hope someone knows what im talking about. Im either going to use the driveshaft that i have and replace that part and the u-joints in it and have it rebalanced or find another ranger with a 8.8 already in the u pull it yard and take the driveshaft from that. But id have to find one with the correct length and maybe have to go thru the hassle of possibly shortening it. HELP ME !

my 2 piece bolted up with no modifications, however I am starting to tear up the rubber around the carrier bearing and there isn't that many miles on it. the one that I replaced was the original and it had 174,000 miles on it.

i made mine....some steel plumbing pipe with some jb weld and a lil duct tape and like 3 self tapping screws. i love it! i can drive so much lower now!

i made mine....some steel plumbing pipe with some jb weld and a lil duct tape and like 3 self tapping screws. i love it! i can drive so much lower now!
You are kidding right? :huh:

You are kidding right? :huh:
lol i sure hope so!

***Hi-jacking***
The driveshaft i previously used with the 7.5 doesnt bolt up to my 8.8. What is the part called that i need to find to replace it with. I hope someone knows what im talking about. Im either going to use the driveshaft that i have and replace that part and the u-joints in it and have it rebalanced or find another ranger with a 8.8 already in the u pull it yard and take the driveshaft from that. But id have to find one with the correct length and maybe have to go thru the hassle of possibly shortening it. HELP ME !

It should be a direct bolt up. Mine was when I switched my 7.5 out for the 8.8 Is it the rear part of the shaft that wont bolt up to the pinion flange? I don't know what to tell you on that one, but it should go right on.

The 8.8 uses a larger yoke than the 7.5. Back when I swapped rears out ( the 1st time LOL) I had to go to the junkyard and get the larger yoke. This larger yoke is on the 90-up Rangers.

The 8.8 uses a larger yoke than the 7.5. Back when I swapped rears out ( the 1st time LOL) I had to go to the junkyard and get the larger yoke. This larger yoke is on the 90-up Rangers.

You are a wealth of information Dave. Mine is a 92. So I guess that explains it.

The larger yoke is also used on the pickups, vans and probably the Crown Vics and other larger cars as well. There's at least two versions, with different sized U joints.

***Hi-jacking***
The driveshaft i previously used with the 7.5 doesnt bolt up to my 8.8. What is the part called that i need to find to replace it with. I hope someone knows what im talking about. Im either going to use the driveshaft that i have and replace that part and the u-joints in it and have it rebalanced or find another ranger with a 8.8 already in the u pull it yard and take the driveshaft from that. But id have to find one with the correct length and maybe have to go thru the hassle of possibly shortening it. HELP ME !
I believe you are talking about... damn well I forgot what it is called exactly, accepter flange, or something (I think that is also the "yoke" baddad is writing of). Anyway, this was just mentioned to me by the guy I just got my 8.8 off of. He had an 80 something ranger and when he switched from his 7.5 to 8.8 he had to get that flange so he could bolt his driveshaft to the rear end. Either that or he would of had to replace the whole thing that flages bolts to, I don't know the name of it, the round thing with bolt holes. That is good news to me that the flange from my 7.5 will bolt to the 8.8 because I have a '92. Yay, saves me about $30.

The larger yoke is also used on the pickups, vans and probably the Crown Vics and other larger cars as well. There's at least two versions, with different sized U joints.
There two size U-Joints I am aware of that ford uses. The 1330, which are for yokes and such that are 4" across from u-joint sides, then there is the 1310, which is 3.5". Bothe have same diametere caps. I used the 1310 to mate right with my shaft from my stock ranger shaft to the yoke for the T5. I had my TWO piece lenthened 2" and had the shop put in stronger u-joints throughout and I believe they replaced my center carriers with a stronger one because I had one that was painted black but when I got the shaft back there was a steel colored one on with some new lub (magenta color) seeping from places.

FORBARED CV style explorer shaft rebuilt to length with Spicer greasable 1310 U joints :)

Same thing up front.

Total was like $325 for both shafts, all new everything.

im useing my stock 2pc,but i had to get 2 1/2" added..it cost like 80 bux.

You are kidding right? :huh:

wow i meant to get back to this sooner...yea lol im runnin the stock one. lmao