JP3
May 05 2003, 08:57am
This is what I wrote up for the guy who bought my turbo stuff:
Fuel System
Modifications:
1. #24 lb/hr injectors - 1994 Chevrolet Z-28. They fit fine, but the stock assembly clips on top won't really work. They are really only there for assembly purposes, as the bolts & rail hold everything in place once on the manifold.
2. Extended pickup tube in reservior/cannister filter mounted on frame. I inserted a short piece (5/8"-3/4") of 1/8" pipe thread pipe nipple into the existing fuel pickup tube. The nipple screwed into it with a pair of vice grips. I just screwed it in tight enough that it wouldn't vibrate out.
Exhaust System
Modifications:
1. Flipped exhaust manifolds 180 deg. to where they now dump forward and up. I ground the odd-shaped flange down to a smooth curve for added clearance near the steering shaft. I'm not sure if this was necessary or not, but it sure didn't hurt anything. The same was done on the passenger side to clear the alternator mount. The manifold gets real close to the alternator mount, but it will fit.
2. Exhaust crossover pipe was constructed and serves as the main mounting point for the turbocharger. I used copper RTV and never had any real leakage problems. A support bracket attaches to the alternator mount and another to the passenger exhaust manifold.
3. The downpipe was constructed with a dump for almost zero backpressure at the track. It dumps into the passenger fenderwell. Believe it or not, but it actually ran better with it capped. My best guess is since the exhaust and intake were on the same side of the truck, it was sucking exhaust into the intake and reducing performance. This was one thing I was planning on changing before the meltdown. I was going to eliminate the dump and smooth up the exhaust flow to the rest of the system. From there, the exhaust system travelled down the frame rail and snaked down to a high flow 3" cat and a 3" 3 chamber Flowmaster, finally dumping just in front of the rear tire.
4. Eliminated the EGR tube. The MAF computer does not use EGR so I just cut the tube at the exhaust manifold, pinched it closed and ran a weld down it to seal it up. I installed a small EGR block off plate to the upper intake I made from a small piece of aluminum.
Cooling System
Pre-turbo Modifications: These were all done before I even considered a turbo.
1. First and foremost I installed a 4.0L Explorer radiator. This should be considered a MUST for any 2.9L, turbo or not. The stock hoses work fine with this radiator, but the top is kind of at a funny angle. If I really would have had my brain turned on, I might have used the 4.0L t-stat housing and upper rad hose that sort of snakes around the back of the alternator.
2. 16" electric fan. This freed up space and horsepower. I wired it to run 100% of the time because I really didn't trust those thermostat switches. :)
Post-turbo Modifications:
1. I cut the heater hose to allow coolant to flow through the turbo. I routed it to flow coolant through the heater core then the turbo, but any setup will work. I've been told that the coolant lines are not even absolutely necessary, but I tend to think a cooler turbo is a happier turbo. (My Powerstroke turbo (TP-38) does not have cooling lines on it, just oil lines)
Charging System
Modifications:
1. I relocated the battery to the passenger side of the truck. Again, had I had my brain in gear, I would have just relocated it to the front corner of the bed in a boat-style battery box. It would have been much easier to do and would have looked much better. I actually did this long before the turbo was considered as I put an airbox from an Aerostar in the stock battery tray. It was about twice the size of the stock Ranger airbox.
2. I slotted the alternator mount to allow the alternator to rotate closer to the engine. I did this because Version 1.0 (drawthruTB) needed additional clearance. I'm not sure this is necessary with V2.0 (blowthruTB). I popped on a shorter belt I got at Autozone as well.
3. I think I took the grinder to the bottom of the alternator mount to allow more room for the passenger exhaust manifold.
Induction System
Modifications:
1. All the parts I used are included with the exception of the air filter. I used a K&N and I can't remember the part number. I just remember getting on Jegs & Summit's website and looking until I found one that fit the dimensions I needed.
2. The rubber elbow included is from an 87 Aeroster van. I was going to cut a stock Ranger hose to allow for a smoother intake transition, but again this was a pre-meltdown idea. I'm not sure if the Aerostar hose will fit the stock Ranger TB, as I was using a 5.0L Mustang TB that has a bit larger outside diameter than the stock piece.
3. The metal piece that attaches to the turbo and the Aerostar hose that has the BOV mounted to it was also slated for revision. I was going to make it a nice curved piece that transitioned to the 3" tube needed for the hoses.
Lubrication System
Modifications:
1. I installed a "T" fitting at the oil pressure sending unit to send pressurized oil to the turbo and installed the braided hose to the top of the turbo.
2. Oil return line. I poked a hole in the oil pan at the front and JBWelded a return hose bung in. I ran a piece of ordinary heater hose from the bottom of the turbo right down to the return bung. I believe a better type of hose (read: oil resistant) should have been used. Last summer when it was extremely hot outside, you could see where oil was weeping through the hose. Not a real big problem, but something that should have been addressed.
Boost Controller
The stock wastegate actuator on this turbo will regulate boost to 6-7 psi if connected directly to the turbo's output tube. The supplied brass Dawe's Devices (www.dawesdevices.com) adjustable boost controller (aka: "Grainger valve") can be used to raise the boost level. The tighter you tighten it, to more boost the turbo will make. It is my recommendation that you do not install the DD controller until after you have run it a while with it in the 6-7 psi range. Then install it at it's loosest setting and gradually tighten until the desired boost level is attained.
Misc.
1. I added a torque strap to the driver's side of the engine to limit engine movement under hard acceleration. I just used a big turnbuckle I purchased at Home Depot.
2. If you have AC, some modifications may be needed. It was removed from my truck before the turbo ever happened since it was non-functional.
3. Same goes for power steering. My truck is a manual steer, so some exhaust mods may be required to clear the power steering pump.
4. Power brakes and all other vacuum accessories can remain in their factory locations.
5. Stock ignition was fine. I just put the coldest sparkplug I could find in there.
6. Timing was set at 5 deg BTDC.
7. If it has little tiny tinky pinging from time to time don't worry too much about it. It really does not hurt anything too much. It's the BIG LOUD UGLY sounding stuff that burns pistons. I had plenty of the BL&U stuff before I got the fuel system figured out, so it can take some abuse. :)
This stuff is a great starting place for a turbocharged 2.9L. There is plenty of room for improvement in the areas of increased airflow and smoother airflow, not to mention improved exhaust flow. With these improvements, I'm certain more power can be made at possibly lower boost levels. I was only scratching the surface of turbo 2.9L power. 300 crank hp should be an attainable number, especially with a hotter camshaft, some mildly ported heads and possibly some fuel system upgrades. Another cool thing is that any performance turbo (like a Super 60) available for 2.2L Chrysler products will bolt right in. Pop for a set of forged pistons and you have the ingredients for a scary fast Ranger. Heck, mine ran 14.71 in the quarter with a sickening 2.3 sec 60' time on 205/60-15 elcheapo street tires. If I had a 5 speed (mine's an auto), some slicks, and managed to get my 60's into the 1.9 range or better, high 13's would have been a reality......at altitude (3600'MSL). That would have been a real eye opener at my local track. I'm really gonna miss going out to the track and whoopin' up on unsuspecting Mustangs, LT1 Z-28's and the like. Nobody expects a little blue Ranger to be door handle-to-door handle at the big end! Lots of fun for sure.
Fuel System
Modifications:
1. #24 lb/hr injectors - 1994 Chevrolet Z-28. They fit fine, but the stock assembly clips on top won't really work. They are really only there for assembly purposes, as the bolts & rail hold everything in place once on the manifold.
2. Extended pickup tube in reservior/cannister filter mounted on frame. I inserted a short piece (5/8"-3/4") of 1/8" pipe thread pipe nipple into the existing fuel pickup tube. The nipple screwed into it with a pair of vice grips. I just screwed it in tight enough that it wouldn't vibrate out.
Exhaust System
Modifications:
1. Flipped exhaust manifolds 180 deg. to where they now dump forward and up. I ground the odd-shaped flange down to a smooth curve for added clearance near the steering shaft. I'm not sure if this was necessary or not, but it sure didn't hurt anything. The same was done on the passenger side to clear the alternator mount. The manifold gets real close to the alternator mount, but it will fit.
2. Exhaust crossover pipe was constructed and serves as the main mounting point for the turbocharger. I used copper RTV and never had any real leakage problems. A support bracket attaches to the alternator mount and another to the passenger exhaust manifold.
3. The downpipe was constructed with a dump for almost zero backpressure at the track. It dumps into the passenger fenderwell. Believe it or not, but it actually ran better with it capped. My best guess is since the exhaust and intake were on the same side of the truck, it was sucking exhaust into the intake and reducing performance. This was one thing I was planning on changing before the meltdown. I was going to eliminate the dump and smooth up the exhaust flow to the rest of the system. From there, the exhaust system travelled down the frame rail and snaked down to a high flow 3" cat and a 3" 3 chamber Flowmaster, finally dumping just in front of the rear tire.
4. Eliminated the EGR tube. The MAF computer does not use EGR so I just cut the tube at the exhaust manifold, pinched it closed and ran a weld down it to seal it up. I installed a small EGR block off plate to the upper intake I made from a small piece of aluminum.
Cooling System
Pre-turbo Modifications: These were all done before I even considered a turbo.
1. First and foremost I installed a 4.0L Explorer radiator. This should be considered a MUST for any 2.9L, turbo or not. The stock hoses work fine with this radiator, but the top is kind of at a funny angle. If I really would have had my brain turned on, I might have used the 4.0L t-stat housing and upper rad hose that sort of snakes around the back of the alternator.
2. 16" electric fan. This freed up space and horsepower. I wired it to run 100% of the time because I really didn't trust those thermostat switches. :)
Post-turbo Modifications:
1. I cut the heater hose to allow coolant to flow through the turbo. I routed it to flow coolant through the heater core then the turbo, but any setup will work. I've been told that the coolant lines are not even absolutely necessary, but I tend to think a cooler turbo is a happier turbo. (My Powerstroke turbo (TP-38) does not have cooling lines on it, just oil lines)
Charging System
Modifications:
1. I relocated the battery to the passenger side of the truck. Again, had I had my brain in gear, I would have just relocated it to the front corner of the bed in a boat-style battery box. It would have been much easier to do and would have looked much better. I actually did this long before the turbo was considered as I put an airbox from an Aerostar in the stock battery tray. It was about twice the size of the stock Ranger airbox.
2. I slotted the alternator mount to allow the alternator to rotate closer to the engine. I did this because Version 1.0 (drawthruTB) needed additional clearance. I'm not sure this is necessary with V2.0 (blowthruTB). I popped on a shorter belt I got at Autozone as well.
3. I think I took the grinder to the bottom of the alternator mount to allow more room for the passenger exhaust manifold.
Induction System
Modifications:
1. All the parts I used are included with the exception of the air filter. I used a K&N and I can't remember the part number. I just remember getting on Jegs & Summit's website and looking until I found one that fit the dimensions I needed.
2. The rubber elbow included is from an 87 Aeroster van. I was going to cut a stock Ranger hose to allow for a smoother intake transition, but again this was a pre-meltdown idea. I'm not sure if the Aerostar hose will fit the stock Ranger TB, as I was using a 5.0L Mustang TB that has a bit larger outside diameter than the stock piece.
3. The metal piece that attaches to the turbo and the Aerostar hose that has the BOV mounted to it was also slated for revision. I was going to make it a nice curved piece that transitioned to the 3" tube needed for the hoses.
Lubrication System
Modifications:
1. I installed a "T" fitting at the oil pressure sending unit to send pressurized oil to the turbo and installed the braided hose to the top of the turbo.
2. Oil return line. I poked a hole in the oil pan at the front and JBWelded a return hose bung in. I ran a piece of ordinary heater hose from the bottom of the turbo right down to the return bung. I believe a better type of hose (read: oil resistant) should have been used. Last summer when it was extremely hot outside, you could see where oil was weeping through the hose. Not a real big problem, but something that should have been addressed.
Boost Controller
The stock wastegate actuator on this turbo will regulate boost to 6-7 psi if connected directly to the turbo's output tube. The supplied brass Dawe's Devices (www.dawesdevices.com) adjustable boost controller (aka: "Grainger valve") can be used to raise the boost level. The tighter you tighten it, to more boost the turbo will make. It is my recommendation that you do not install the DD controller until after you have run it a while with it in the 6-7 psi range. Then install it at it's loosest setting and gradually tighten until the desired boost level is attained.
Misc.
1. I added a torque strap to the driver's side of the engine to limit engine movement under hard acceleration. I just used a big turnbuckle I purchased at Home Depot.
2. If you have AC, some modifications may be needed. It was removed from my truck before the turbo ever happened since it was non-functional.
3. Same goes for power steering. My truck is a manual steer, so some exhaust mods may be required to clear the power steering pump.
4. Power brakes and all other vacuum accessories can remain in their factory locations.
5. Stock ignition was fine. I just put the coldest sparkplug I could find in there.
6. Timing was set at 5 deg BTDC.
7. If it has little tiny tinky pinging from time to time don't worry too much about it. It really does not hurt anything too much. It's the BIG LOUD UGLY sounding stuff that burns pistons. I had plenty of the BL&U stuff before I got the fuel system figured out, so it can take some abuse. :)
This stuff is a great starting place for a turbocharged 2.9L. There is plenty of room for improvement in the areas of increased airflow and smoother airflow, not to mention improved exhaust flow. With these improvements, I'm certain more power can be made at possibly lower boost levels. I was only scratching the surface of turbo 2.9L power. 300 crank hp should be an attainable number, especially with a hotter camshaft, some mildly ported heads and possibly some fuel system upgrades. Another cool thing is that any performance turbo (like a Super 60) available for 2.2L Chrysler products will bolt right in. Pop for a set of forged pistons and you have the ingredients for a scary fast Ranger. Heck, mine ran 14.71 in the quarter with a sickening 2.3 sec 60' time on 205/60-15 elcheapo street tires. If I had a 5 speed (mine's an auto), some slicks, and managed to get my 60's into the 1.9 range or better, high 13's would have been a reality......at altitude (3600'MSL). That would have been a real eye opener at my local track. I'm really gonna miss going out to the track and whoopin' up on unsuspecting Mustangs, LT1 Z-28's and the like. Nobody expects a little blue Ranger to be door handle-to-door handle at the big end! Lots of fun for sure.