The following should work on any removeable throttle body. This is a 3.0 Throttle body off a 2004 Ranger. We dissassembled a 2004 4.0 throttle body and the steps were identical to this. First remove the throttle body from the truck.

Remove the two screws holding the round disc in the center of the throttle body. Open the throttle body and slide the disc out. Note the position for reinstalling. Remove the two screws on the electronic device on the right and remove the device.


http://www.granitebydesign.info/gallery/d/148-1/tb2.JPG

With those pieces removed, you can slide out the shaft. Make note of the spring position so it can be reinstalled.

http://www.granitebydesign.info/gallery/d/154-1/tb5.JPG

Next I used an electric grinder with a metal cutoff wheel to cut out the shaft. DO NOT remove the section that is threaded. Remove the side that is an open hole. I left a little of the slot on each side. Clean the cut with a file or grinding wheel.

http://www.granitebydesign.info/gallery/d/145-1/tb1.JPG

Make sure there is no metal shavings or debri before reassembly. I used an air gun to thoroughly blow out all pieces. Slide the shaft back in just enough to position both sides of the spring. Spin the shaft a couple of times to preload the spring, then push the rest of the way in. Reattach the electronic device. Rotate the shaft to slide the disc back in and slowly turn it back to closed. There should be no gaps or daylight through the disc. Reattach the two screws holding the disc. I failed to take a "before" picture, but the original obstruction was close to double the size pictured.

http://www.granitebydesign.info/gallery/d/159-1/tb8.JPG

Lastly, we used a die grinder to shave the threads of the screws flush with the shaft.

http://www.granitebydesign.info/gallery/d/161-1/tb9.JPG

I have used this tool in the past to taper bore the throttle body. It is a cylinder honing tool and is available at Sears and many Auto Parts stores. I attach it to a cordless drill and insert it into the throttle body using a gentle up and down motion to bore out the throttle body. DO not get near the disc seating area. If you enlarge this area you will have major idle problems on the vehicle. The goal is to enlarge the opening where the intake tube attaches and gradually taper this back down to oem size before the disc.

http://www.granitebydesign.info/gallery/d/163-1/tb10.JPG

It's a relatively simple mod and is basically free. Dead and Underdog performed this mod and it took about an hour. Dead was able to get a used throttle body in case there were problems, but it ended up not being necessary. The benefit is one less obtruction in the air path to the cylinders.

I could tell a very slight difference in normal excelleration. At WOT the truck bogs. This is caused by not having the computer tuned.

This mod is very easy and takes little time to complete. Best of all its free! I would suggest getting flush mounting screws and tapering the holes in the throttle butterfly for a flush fit.

Thanks for the use of your tools Wayne

looks prerry good man. im gonna need to set up an appt and do taht.

then cut the air box, k&n filters and cowl hood b4 i run the dyno... well cowl hood wont do anyhting on a dyno but w/e

It'll take all of an hour. I pulled this from another thread. It was pretty enlightening for me to read. Basically if your gonna do a free mod, do the throttle body over the maf sensor:


I have done flowbench testing on the 3.0 MAF and TB ( That is -I- personally did the testing, on my Superflow flowbench). The MAF out flows the TB by two to one easily. Moral: the TB is the flow restriction. The "performance gain" people feel they get by gutting the center pillar is'nt due to "getting more air " into the motor, What they inadvertently do is kill the vacuum signal to the sample tube. That leans the snot out of the motor - usually to the point of pinging. Really, this wouldn't be a bad mod if instead of gutting the center pillar, you just shorten the rear cover on the center pillar until you get the lean out you want.
All this means is the stock MAF is more than adequate - concentrate on a larger tube connecting the MAF to the TB - I hear people have made those out of PVC with good results.and a larger TB
PS I found that my coverted Mustange 60mm TB flows the same as my stock MAF - good match!

I did mine today. No bogging at all. Feels good. I'll get hiway miles on it Monday.