SBC IN RANGER
I. Motor Plate - 2 piece design
A. Cut out to sit on top of frame rail.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h177/94ranger355/Information%20help/WOWisthataBOLT-INmotorplate1000pix1.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h177/94ranger355/Information%20help/WOWisthataBOLT-INmotorplate1000pix2.jpg
B. Used 2X2 angle iron to make motor plate mounting
tabs OR use Moroso solid motor mounts & towers.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h177/94ranger355/Information%20help/93RangerMorosomountPass.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h177/94ranger355/Information%20help/93RangerMorosomountDriverside1000pi.jpg

II. Transmission mounting - Moroso Solid Mount
A. Remove cross member bracket rivets.
B. Test fit when trans is in place, mark, & drill
holes. Use Grade 8 bolts.
OR make your own cross member out of whatever you
desire, I used 1x2 channel, welded 2 pieces together
to form a 2x2 square & mounted inside of frame with
Grade 8 bolts.
C. I used a speedometer cable for 74 Chevelle with Turbo
350 and Autometer speedometer.

III. Exhaust
A. MANIFOLDS: Ramhorn exhaust manifolds will work, but
be sure to have them on before mounting motor plate or
motor mount/tower combo, as top of passenger side
frame rail will have to be notched slightly.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2179000-2179999/2179915_8_full.jpg
B. HEADERS: If you can find a set to work, same as above
description. (I used Blockhugger on Pass. Side, but
had to remove flange & extended it with mandrel bent
pipe into new collector……..Driverside I used 88-89
Chevy Truck, but had to modify steering shaft)
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h177/94ranger355/Information%20help/355Passengersideheader1000pix.jpg

IV. Radiator
A. I used Griffin 4 core radiator PN# 25182 (without
cooler), made a hold down bracket.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h177/94ranger355/Information%20help/NEWGriffin4coreradiator1wireAlterna.jpg
B. Trans cooler: Imperial PN# 242009 or Ford PN#
XL3Z-7A095-CB(have to find nipples for Ford cooler).

V. Driveshaft

A. Stock driveshaft will be right length, but will have
to use Chevy yoke.

VI. Power Steering Pump
A. 2.9 V6 with steel bracket & V-belt pulley, flip
bracket upside down from original (grinding required)
to get 2 welded nuts on left side of pump when on
engine.
B. Hog out single nut to allow bolt & spacer(s) to
attach to driverside head. Use adjustable eye & nut
assembly to mount top to bracket & bottom eye to top
steering gear bolt. Adjust as needed.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h177/94ranger355/Information%20help/BroncoIIPowerSteerinPump1000pix.jpg
C. Power steering lines may have to modified or made as
per your application.

VII. Wiring
STARTER: Can use stock wire, will have to run NEW wire
from fender solenoid to ignition post on Chevy
solenoid.
ALTERNATOR: NEW 1 wire is the easiest, just run wire
from alternator to positive post of
battery.
IGNITION: Toggle switch of choice, run wire from
positive post of battery to IN post on switch,
then wire from OUT post on switch to BATT tab
on HEI distributor cap (I used 10 gauge wire)

VIII. Firewall Mods

A. Will have to hammer firewall back or cut out area
behind distributor for distributor removal while
engine is in vehicle. I moved my firewall back 3"
and then fabbed a box out of sheetmetal.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2179000-2179999/2179883_18_full.jpg
After painted
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2179000-2179999/2179883_23_full.jpg

If I left anythin out, just drop me a PM and I'll try to answer any questions you have as per my experience on doin this twice.

First off, I would like to thank 94ranger355 for doing this write up. By looking at the amount of views on the latest post about this topic, it seems the interest for information about this swap is out there. And we aim to please.

I know many of you have strong feelings about the whole Chevy motor in a Ford topic. That's fine, but this thread is not the place for those opinions. If they show up, they will be removed. Please respect this.

That being said, if you have a question about the topic or some personal expierence to add.....bring it.

Thanks again 94ranger355

Let's let this float in general circulation for a few days, then sticky. Nice write up!

T

Neat info, but notch the firewall? Yikes, I didn't do that even with my 460. That part kills it for most guys who aren't willing to hack into the firewall to fit a motor. I'd assume it could be dome without the notch, right?

Neat info, but notch the firewall? Yikes, I didn't do that even with my 460. That part kills it for most guys who aren't willing to hack into the firewall to fit a motor. I'd assume it could be dome without the notch, right?
================================================== =======
As I stated, you can hammer the firewall back to clear the distributor...............
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2179000-2179999/2179915_8.jpg
But I opted to move part of mine back 3", and YES I did remove the heater/AC box inside & out. My plans are for a Mojave Heater for a Jeep CJ that measures 12" x 9" x 5" mounted inside under the dash & ducted into the defrosters.....
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Photos/p24265b.jpg

Send me some pics of your 460 Ranger PLEASE!

THANKS!

you fit a v8 thats kool but what about a 4.3 v6 i loved mine in my old s10 is it much different and how did you do the wireing for the v8?

=
Send me some pics of your 460 Ranger PLEASE!

THANKS!

Looky here:

www.bigblockranger.com

Instead of notching or modifying the fire wall, I purchased a MSD pro billet short cap distributor and it works well, I'm very pleased with my combo. I would like to do a MII front end with a 460 swap next. :headbang:

how did you "modify" the steering stem

I'm all about sticking engines in things that they don't belong in. Hell, I wanted a mustang with a 350 just to be different. But isn't it really hard to fabricate it? Another thing: What kind of radiator is that

how did you "modify" the steering stem
================================================== ====
Here's a link to where I buy some of my aftermarket hard to find parts:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/parent_id.176/dept_id.178/qx/DisplayGroup.htm
ONLY REQUIRED if you run headers, my Son's 93 w/ramhorn exhaust manifolds doesn't have a clearance problem.

I'm all about sticking engines in things that they don't belong in. Hell, I wanted a mustang with a 350 just to be different. But isn't it really hard to fabricate it? Another thing: What kind of radiator is that
================================================== ==
:secret: IV. Radiator
A. I used Griffin 4 core radiator PN# 25182 (without
cooler), made a hold down bracket.:thumbsup:

FYI: I sold a 90 Mustang LX Coupe that I had setup for a SBC (had motor & trans settin in it, removed them for my Ranger) to purchase my 94 Ranger & start my current project:driving:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/2181000-2181999/2181144_2.jpg

very interesting...

i have a 88 chevy suburban with a 350 TBI and freshly rebuild auto trans that i would love to drop in.

what are your thoughts on the TBI setup on the chevys?
worth runing it or converting over to carb?

the truck is 4x4 thats the only thing that i am worryed about having to deal with the transfer case.

also any idea what size fuel pump to go with i am sure the stock 3.0 efi pump may joke trying to feed it.

headers or manafolds

what are these ramhorn exhaust manifolds? Just curious. also are there any other motor mounts available for this swap, or do they all have to be fabricated? i'd love to get this thread runnin again.

somebody needs to start selling headers for this swap and things would be alot easier

somebody needs to start selling headers for this swap and things would be alot easier
================================================
DITTO! I second that! However you want to term it......... DAMN GOOD IDEA!!!:thumbsup:

real good write up,its helped me out a good bit.What had to be done to the steering shaft for the header to work on the drivers side? the link up above didnt work...Anyway you can take a pic? I hope to sit my motor in sometime next week.

real good write up,its helped me out a good bit.What had to be done to the steering shaft for the header to work on the drivers side? the link up above didnt work...Anyway you can take a pic? I hope to sit my motor in sometime next week.
==========================================
I purchased some 3/4" steering rod, 1 heim joint, 1 knuckle off the steerin box, 1 knuckle inbetween...........
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h177/94ranger355/355%2094%20Ranger/Driverside88-89Truckheader750pix1.jpg

Send me some pics of your buildup.............

Email: a355ranger@bellsouth.net

THANKS!

Hi, I also have a ranger with a 350 in it, Although its mounted totally different.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/mgman71/DSCI0008.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/mgman71/DSCI0006.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/mgman71/DSCI0007-1.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/mgman71/DSCI0010.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/mgman71/DSCI0011.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/mgman71/DSCI0005.jpg

what did you do for engine mounts? Any write up or details at all? Great pics and great job! :thumbsup:

what did you do for engine mounts? Any write up or details at all? Great pics and great job! :thumbsup:

Stock engine and transmission mounts (the saftey mounts). If you notice in the pic that the rad is actually under the rad support instead of behind, so this is obviously important. Just cut the bottom out and fab up a new bottom support, Widen the opening and may have to notch the frame slightly depending on how wide your radiator is, but its worth it. There is ample room for the fan and distributor (no firewall cutting).

The engine sits low and oil pan clears the crossmember underneath (about half inch to 5/8" clearance). To get the engine that low, you have to place it in with the mounts attached, then set it in, mark on the crossmember where they are. Now basically you have to cut the crossmember wide enough to clear the mount and bolt. Weld in a plate. Place engine in again to mark the bolt holes. Now for the drivers side, i dont believe it has to be notched, but the engine portion of the mount has to be extended because it is now located over top of the steering box. I'll edit this post later on with more pix.

I ran into a guy with a 94 sbc ranger at the track and he claims S10 headers fit with a little work.:nixweiss:
Looking under his hood even tho it was dark it appears he is running the headman shorties.
whats up with that? I didnt think the Sdime would work on a ranger.
Ive been waiting 2 months on my truck to get out the paint shop before I drop my motor in so they can paint the firewall and all,but Im gonna try it out when I get it back enless somebody on here has tried it before

what rear end are yall usein

what rear end are yall usein
================================================== =
Explorer 8.8's w/LS & 3.73's...............

i did it into a 1988 bronco II here: http://broncoii.org/forum/index.php?topic=9152.0

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh134/shumaker_7/IMAG0462.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh134/shumaker_7/IMAG0468.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh134/shumaker_7/IMAG0470.jpg

i have a million other pics, just ask

**edit
what rear end are yall usein
gm12 bolt rear, and dana 40 front, np205 t-case, and sm465 trans

94ranger355

in your original post I noticed you said you ran a motor plate,solid motor mounts,and solid trans mounts.....

maybe im wrong and would like others thoughts on this....
but i was always told and tought(SP?) that if u use solid motor mounts ya want to stay away from solid trans mounts if your planning on streeting it....sine the frame twist and all puts the mounts under heavy loads,that it can be bad on the cast trans tail...I was always told and how we have always built them was if u put solid mounts one had to be soft...hope this make sense to everyone.

and like i said looking for others opinions.(or maybe I didnt read it right also):hail:

Thanks in advance
Dustin

p.s.
nice info and write up btw!