here's my problem in a nutshell

My truck is dropped correctly, djm upper and lower control arms, 2" drop springs, flip kit in the rear, for a total 4/5 drop.

I have 18" wheels, and i'm eating through my tires (235/40/18) like candy. The inside tread of my drivers side wheel is wearing out faster than any other tire. i've had the truck aligned multiple times due to this. I washed my truck a few minutes ago, and i noticed that the inner tire of both tires was starting to wear down, and that i'm going to need to replace one of my tires.

within the last year i've had my truck aligned 4-5 times. everytime i take it to the shop, they make a print out before/after showing how off it is. i don't have any of them lying around, but it's only showing "off" of about .003 before the alignment (camber/caster).

what else can be causing my tires to wear out so badly? i just bought a new tire less than 3 months ago, and 3 months ago before that.

has your truck been in an accident before?
if so, you could have a bent frame.

Are they checking for toe-in properly? Some alignment shops just can't get it right. I'm not sure if you have tried other places. Negative camber alone will not wear your tires out fast. A friend of mine had suggested Sears because they will give free alignments after the initial one. It's a bit pricey but would save you in the long run. Also, are you keeping tabs on your tire pressure?

In my experience, it takes both negative camber and not enough toe-in to cause the inside edge of the front tires to wear prematurely. 40 series tires are more sensitive to excessive negative camber than taller tires, too. I agree that some alignment shops don't seem to be able to get it right, so I'd also suggest trying another shop. You could also just add a little toe-in and see if that helps. iirc, about 1/2 turn on one of the front links is around 1/4" to toe-in - its not hard to do if you have the right size wrenches - just be certain you get the jamb nuts tight again after you move it!

another factor is worn components, ball joints, tie rod ends, any other bushings.

AND,

Many shops don't seem to realize how much camber changes on a Ranger during suspension travel. they need to bounce it up and down after any adjustments. example, jack up the front of you truck, huge positive camber. set it down, it will stay lifted a little, as the tires need to slide outward to get back to "normal" position. Takes some extra effort. basically, the track width is narrower when truck is raised on lift/jack.

I've spent lot's of money on alighnment too. with unbelievable results. (huge negative camber [like3*], wheel c o c k ed to the side, truck pulling to side)

Depending on the valving of your shocks you may have to work to find the sweet spot setting for your camber. I would suggest adding 1 degree negative camber every time you get your truck aligned.

If it were me I would start by adding 1.5 degrees of negative camber.

Also look into the moog branded radius arm bushings, they are listed in the moog catalog as a improved design. They actually have adjustment in them and will dramatically improve the tirewear and handling of your truck. You will have to find someone who sells moog to even find this part.

Your variance for toe in should be between 1/8th and 1/4"


Also make sure the shop is thrust angle aligning the truck and NOT just a front end alignment.