I am new to the world of baged sports trucke and would liketo bag my 1998. i need a list of everything i need. do i have to buy is all seperatly or does someone make a complete kit?

suicidedoors.com has everything you need...just use the search and you can find anything you need to know to bag a truck

thanx

but does anybody make an all inclusive kit

NOt usually no. One reason there is not an "all inclusive " kit is b/c there are 100 different ways you can run your airlines and fittings for starters. Plus not everyone likes to use he same style mounts.

i have the rear mount picked out (air bag it road grater) but what should i use in the front? by the way i rally appriciate the help.

i have the rear mount picked out (air bag it road grater) but what should i use in the front? by the way i rally appriciate the help.
overpriced and ridiculous if you asked me.

For your truck you need:

[FBSS setup]
Lowering control arms
Front cups
(4) 2500lb **
(8) Valves *
about 40 ft of airline
Triangulated 4 Link *
8inch Step Notch
Misc. Fittings
Raised Tranny Xmember (i think)
Compressor
Tank
Water Trap
(4) Check Valves*
Rear bag mounts

And then if you wanna lay flat frame, you need to either get a shop to Z the frame (raise the part of the frame where the engine is) or do it yourself.

Thats all to my knowledge

*there are other options here
**Slams RE6's or RE7's recommended.

Roadgrader = overpriced jizunk!

overpriced and ridiculous if you asked me.


Roadgrader = overpriced jizunk!

It can't be said enough.

does any body have picks of a zed frame

This is what ive come up with so far

Lowering control arms-?
Front cups-Ranger Front Bag Brackets 98 and Up-64.99
(4) 2500lb-Firestone 255c 2500-279.99
(8) Valves -3/8" SMC Valve 8 Pack-219.99
about 40 ft of airline-3/8" DOT Reinforced Air Line-19.99
Triangulated 4 Link -Universal Triangulated 4-Link Kit-279.00
8inch Step Notch-Generation 2 Bridge Kit-199.99
Misc. Fittings-?
Raised Tranny Xmember (i think)
Compressor-Viair 480 200 PSI-214.99
Tank-Chrome 5 Gallon 4 Port-64.99
Water Trap-SMC Water Trap 3/8"-29.99
(4) Check Valves-SMC 3/8" Check Valve with Fittings-95.99
does everything sound right. and how bout sugestions on c-arms

anything from airfagit/aim/chasis tech ....is complete junk and is probably worth more at the scrap yard.

you won't need any check valves because the viairs have them built right into their leader hose. i would suggest 1/2 valves and 1/2 line. 3/8 is pretty slow. you might want another 5 gallon tank (or 1 12 gallon). you will need more than 4 ports.
and another compressor too. with 1 480 and 1 5 gallon you will only be able to lift the truck once and then have to wait a couple minutes before you are able to lower it and lift it again.

a lot of guys on here will probably suggest slam specialties bags over the firestones, because they have a lot better of a reputation becaus ethey are made much better and are very reliable.

another option on your 4 link would be the super lift setup. it is a nicer ride, and gives you more lift.

but you are on the right track...if you have any mroe questions feel free to ask. there are a lot of knowledgeable guys on here who can answer just about any question involving your truck.

does any body have picks of a zed frame

hit msturg up..he has sent me alot of pics of his Z...
I would run 1/2" line with the 3/8 valves to optimize your airflow...you wont be any faster with 1/2 lines and 1/2 valves.you would need 5/8 line to optimize the 1/2 valves
with one 380 and a 5 gallon tank i can raise my truck and still have enought to drop and raise it again and i have it set at 165psi

so i need an 8 port, drop the check valves, get and bigger line. how bout the c-arms amy recomendations

i would put a check valve on the tank after the water trap so if anything happens to the watertrap or line going to the compressor the tank wont empty.
get the DJM arms...

paco would be one of the knowledgable ones. haha

stop it, your going to embarass me ...lol

come to think about i learned most of what i know from reading yours and msturg And clenzer's posts (and a few others).so i am but a padawan while you sir are the master....
edit: I cant forget to mention Blausplash...

i am by far no master...for instance i didn't know you could get more than one lift out of a 5 gallon tank. but that is why there are a million of us on here....that way some of us can pick up where others left off.

and we have to remember each truck is going to be different, my ride height isn't going to work for some 98+ guys since i have my tranny crossmember raised between the frame rails, I can ride lower. also the type of bags you run and how the rear is set up will impact how much air you have left in your tank, I can go from layed out to ride height and not even kick the compressor on, going from 165 in the tank to 140, but my ride height pressure is 90 in the front and 30 in the rear

with the way mine used to be, i would ride 110-120 up front and like 80 out back...i had a 2 5 gallon tanks that i filled to 200psi. i'd get about one and a half lifts before the compressor kicked on. so that gives you an idea in the difference in setups.

yea, it takes more to lift the front of an i-beam ranger than a c'arm ranger, hows the build going anyway, i know you said you havent done much because of the cold, but its been awhile since i seen any progress pics...

If you plan on doing this yourself and haven't really messed with too much fabrication and modification, I would say steer clear of the Z. It's not too bad to do at all, but it takes some confidence to cut the front clip completely off, lol.

As for your bag "kit" I would talk to suicidedoors or Brian at www.illusivefabrications.com

Brian is a regular poster on here and knows what it takes to get the rangers layed out.

yea, it takes more to lift the front of an i-beam ranger than a c'arm ranger, hows the build going anyway, i know you said you havent done much because of the cold, but its been awhile since i seen any progress pics...

its going...i posted updated pics of the dash and center consol in primer...about to pull the cab back off and build some air tank and fuel cell mounts...i won't be posting much progress til i get the frame smoothed. i have a lot of little crap that i need to do that wouldn't even be worth me posting updates about. give me a month or so. i'll have some pics of the frame painted hopefully.

you won't need any check valves because the viairs have them built right into their leader hose.

Check Valves are always a good idea to have between the tank and the bag, that way if the tank loses pressure becuase of a busted line, or a blown bag somewhere else, your truck wont slam into the ground at high-speed.

Also if you have leaks in your tank, or drain your tank for a cold morning, you can leave your bags filled when you are parked, get up in the morning and drive your truck like a static vehicle, while your tank fills up.

I try to convince everyone that check valves are good things to have.

Have you ever seen a truck with the front up, and then they raise the back up and the front goes down? thats becuase of a lack of check valves. (just some info for 1998tangwagon)

I don't run check valves either. That's mostly due to the fact that the fill valve for the bag acts as a check valve. I've never seen a truck fill up in the back and the front go down, at least not the way you are talking. I've seen this happen only slightly due to weight re-distribution.

Check Valves are always a good idea to have between the tank and the bag, that way if the tank loses pressure becuase of a busted line, or a blown bag somewhere else, your truck wont slam into the ground at high-speed.

Also if you have leaks in your tank, or drain your tank for a cold morning, you can leave your bags filled when you are parked, get up in the morning and drive your truck like a static vehicle, while your tank fills up.

I try to convince everyone that check valves are good things to have.

Have you ever seen a truck with the front up, and then they raise the back up and the front goes down? thats becuase of a lack of check valves. (just some info for 1998tangwagon)


msturg hit the nail right on the head...their is no need for any check valves on your system other than between your compressor and tank. check valves anywhere were else is just a waste of money....otherwise everbody would be using them. so there is no need to "convince" anybody to use them between the tanks and the valves.

no hes right it has to do with the volume and pressure in the tank im gona put check valves on the explorer when i get it back on the road. my ranger has mic manual valves so they also act as check valves somewhat. and my tank has a pinhole leak in it so it leaks over night and the truck stays aired up. but anyways, yes if you dont have enough air you lift the front then the back the front can go down.

yea, when running electric valves there has to be equal or greater pressure in the tank to keep air from leaking back into the tank.....thats why if you lift your truck and let the air out of the tank the truck will drop...

are you guys saying that if I lift the front of my truck filled up to say 100 psi. Now I lift the back of my truck and say I only have enough air to fill the back ones up to 80 psi.

So now I have an air tank and two rear bags sitting at the same psi that because the psi is lower my front will go down to say 90 psi?

I'm calling shinnanigans. That's all going to depend on how the valve operates. If the valves operate in accordance to the pressure then you theory would be correct. But an electric valve, at least the ones on my truck are either opened or closed. They don't open up if there is more pressure from one side or the other.

With more and more people agreeing, I think this is dependent on what valves your running.

With more and more people agreeing, I think this is dependent on what valves your running.

I know for a fact that I've had my front aired up to 140 driving down the road and popping the assend up and down. My front never went down in psi.

I am using Blitzlufts from FBI for my fills and smc for my dumps, and if my truck is aired up and the pressure in the tank drops below the pressure in my front bags the front will drop..also once I had my leader hose break at my tank and my entire truck started dropping as soon as the tank pressure dropped..not fun going 75 on the interstate 5 in the morning...

I've got nuthin, I'm running GC's and my system doesn't act the same as your guys.

I've run, Blitzluft, Asco, and GC. All of them did it.

I'm glad some people are agreeing, because I thought I was crazy lol, 2 of my friends trucks did it, and then I told them about check valves, now they dont.

i have gc's and have never had this problem...i'm still sticking with msturg on this one. a valve opens and closes. when it is closed it should not allow air to backflow through it.

without any back pressure there isnt anything to keep the diaghram closed, just a small spring...
I dont have this problem usually since i dont use alot of pressure to get to ride height, but when i had my Black Max valves it was terrible...

*edit*
I am willing to bet all valves have to have a certain amount of back pressure to stay closed, but depending on the valve it may be less for some than others.....if I have time i will check it out at work today...*