My 91 2.3 5-speed Will not get over 170 Degrees. I have checked it at the t-stat housing with a non-contact thermometer so it not just the gauge reading wrong. I have used two different t-stats (the one in there now is a 192 motorcraft) and it still will not warm up all the way. the temp gauge will barly touch the N on NORMAL. I would like it to ride right in the middle like it should but it won't get there. the clutch fan is working like it should as is everything else. Is there a trick to this?

Thanks ahead of time, Steve

I have the same problem with mine, I have a 91' 2.3. About 2 years ago my nephew was driving the truck when the water pump went out. It got "HOT", and it was drove like that for awhile before I was informed. Changed water pump, thermostat, took off clutch fan and put an electric fan on. Changed thermostat several times and still cannot get it to warm up. When it was 25 to 30 outside when I was headed to work I might have lukewarm air and i am 26 miles to work. The temp gauge will not move off the C. My only fix currently is to run a piece of cardboard in front of radiator. I have about 4" tall and length of rad. open at bottom. If anybody has any suggestions to try before I get my T motor in. I should have it done by summer.

Try pressure testing your cooling system and see if there are any small leaks. Also pressure test your radiator cap. Not building proper pressure in the cooling system can make it run cool. If you don't have a cooling system pressure tester, I think you can rent one pretty cheap. That would be my advice. Good luck.:drunk:

I have a pressure tester and it leaks from the radiator end tank. I didn't know that would keep it from running cool. I was thinking that since the engine is bored .040" over that the cylinder walls were disapating the heat too quickly. Make sense? Like I said it will run a constant 170 degress but i would like it to be around 195-200.

My experience is that whenever my cooling system develops a leak, it will run cooler until the coolant level gets too low. I have read on other postings that you can gently crimp the tabs that hold the tanks on the end of the radiator. It usually is due to the lack of presuure being built in the system. Did you check the radiator cap? Good luck again.

This has been an ongoing concern in several threads people have started. I believe one of the solutions that resulted in the temp being corrected was a full coolant flush, along with the proper t-stat from the dealer. In my 94 the gauge barely hits the N in normal, but it wasn't even going that far before the right T-stat. I'm gonna get the whole system flushed. 1 Guy reported when he had that done and bunch of crap came out of his cooling system.

I got a brand new radiator, cap, upper and lower hoses today. the thermostat is only a month old and it did bring the temp up about 30 degrees. yes it is a motorcraft 192 t-stat. I still don't see how a leak would make it run cooler?

okay, im having this same problem recently. i dont know how to pressure test the system, but it seems like a good idea. Only problem is that i just changed the fluid not too long ago, and i still get good heat. only problem is the temp guage will not really rise much above a quarter of the way up, if that. it deffinatly moves off the C though.

I see this has been abandoned for a few weeks, but my dads 85 ranger 2.3l also will not warm up fully. i changed the t-stat to a 180 kragen deal, the old one was stuck wide open, temp guage would not move. now it warms up to the bottom of Normal (the N) But it should get warmer still! There are no leaks in the system, need to check the cap still... and the coolant gets changed all the time. however when i had the t-stat out, the cooling system looks like it had stop leak put in it...

if you run the heater on full blast, you can cool the heater off, and it will blow cooler air. That made me think not enough flow or air pockets, but there seems to be no air pockets, and not enough flow should over heat it, right?

also original water pump. any further suggestions/ideas?

A lower temp T-stat will just make a cool running truck run even cooler, so consider putting the stock 190 back in there. It is possible to have a new T-stat that isn't working properly and opening too soon. Rust, scale, and deposits can often keep the coolant from properly pulling the heat out of an engine, or prevent you from getting much heat from the heater core. A good professional engine flush may help. A lot of Rangers don't really display any usable info on the temp gauge either - some are glorified idiot lights. If you want to know how hot it is, put in an aftermarket gauge with numbers on it.

Can you see the coolant flowing quickly though the radiator when you pop the cap off with the engine running and up to temp? If not, consider replacing the water pump too as it's not very expensive and it's easy to do. It's also possible that your clutch fan isn't disengaging like it should at lower temps, so you've got several things to check out.

A vehicle needs a tight cooling system. If there's a constant pressure release it will begin to run hot. Put it in terms of a pressure cooker.,,if the internal pressure is released it begins to boil. That,s why radiator caps are rated for specific applications.As far as not warming up. a leaking head gasket may cause insuffucuent coolant flow. A restricted heater core will cause low heat that,s generally checked by the temperature difference between the inlet and outlet heater hoses. If a core is flowing good the difference between the temperatures of both hoses should be fairly close<<<hot water in>>good flow>>fairly how water out.If the temperature is wayyyyyyyyy different the core is probably clogged or possibly the heater control valve is not opening properly. While the engine is at hot running temperature, set a thermometer in the coolant in the radiator. The reading should be real accurate.I found an old thermometer for cooking at the flea market. The next thing is the guage in your dash. Most ranger guages are inaccurate if you think it,s wrong ground the single wire temperature sensor . With the key on the guage should sweep to full hot. Either install a good aftermarket guage or you may be able to change the temperature sender in the head and it may read better. Good Luck