Hey guys I finally decided to get more involved with my setup. Every since I have been spraying I have been running a .063 N2O and a .071 fuel jets on my cheater plate system.

I have been looking at some calculators online and foudn that I should be way rich. all the calculators I hav found say I should be running a .055-.056 fuel. Why is there such a large discrepency? I can understand NOS being a little on the safe side but that is ALOT!

I know "Captain" could probablly answer my question but he hasn't been in a while. Has anybody else came across this?

i think one of the best tools you could buy is a wideband o2. you could make sure your at 12-13 to 1 air/fuel @ wot without nitrous and with nitrous.

but then I would have to drill, weld a bung, and find a computer to read it.

true, you would have to drill and weld but you wont need a computer to do anything. a wideband will tell you in realtime what your airfuel is. they are exspensive but well worth it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Innovate-LM-1-wideband-o2-Air-Fuel-Ratio-Uego-datalog_W0QQitemZ330112472587QQihZ014QQcategoryZ33 740QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I was looking into the MW-1 but they seem pretty expensive I heard that I can use a cheaper Pyro gauge.

i suppose a pyro gauge will work, too much fuel would cause colder temp and too little hotter. timing would have alot to do with the exhaust temp as well, the more you retard timing the hotter the exhaust temp, if i'm not mistaken.

I thought it was the opposite the more advanced the hotter.. I know the lean/rich plays a big roll. I have seen some headers glow! haha.

Sorry I haven't been on here in a long time, been real busy.

If you're looking to move up in HP, the next jet setting is a .073 N2O & .082 FUEL, and should be about 180 shot @ 5.5 psi flowing fuel pressure.
NOS gives you baseline tune-ups that are relativly safe. They tell you to set your fuel pressure @ 5.5 psi and you bottle pressure @ 950 psi.
I find that just tweaking the fuel & nitrous pressures & timing retard can net you anywhere from 1/2 tenth to 1/2 a second (yes a 1/2 of a second) DEPENDING on how productive it is set now. BUT (and there's always a "but"), you have to be REAL careful.
For example, let's say I'm running a 125 shot and my truck will run consistent 10.50's with that tune-up. If I lean it out a tad (take some fuel pressure out & up the bottle pressure a bit), I can now run a 10.40-10.42, but I'm living on the edge. If I fatten it up a bit (add some fuel pressure and maybe pull 1 more degree of timing from the MSD retard box) I will now run a 10.60-10.65 or so.
This is all done by tweaking you baseline tune-up.
It's easy to just pill it up, but don't get greedy.
Get yourself a good spark plug magnifier (I use a 30x handheld w/ a built in light, the best $10 I spent on my nitrous program) and pull ALL your plugs after every pass. The plugs will tell you what it likes and doesn't like. Just be VERY carefull with your pressures. Watch that the fuel pressure doesn't drop too much (I wouldn't run under 5 psi with any tune-up), and set it flowing, not dead headed.
Watch you N2O pressure, don't go over 1050 or below 900, 1000 is a real good safe power making psi to stay at.
Get your self a GOOD N2O gauge (not a bottle mounted one, get an Autometer or Stewart Warner gauge) and mount ot where you can see it on the starting line.

These are only a few things to do, to maximize your baseline tune-up, just remember, don't get greedy, take baby steps or she'll pitch a fit that you won't like!

This is exactly what I use, but there are other cheaper ones that are copies of it for around $10.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Illuminated-Pocket-Microscopes-30x-w-Magnifier-a-100x_W0QQitemZ200118605769QQihZ010QQcategoryZ10236 2QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Run a search on ebay for 30x magnifier and see what pops up. The one I have is made by illuminex, just like the link I posted.

Just thought I'd post it.

I knew you would have the answer.

Not really looking to up the hp.. just maximize what I have now. I just did all the calculators and all of them said that I need a smaller jet for fuel.. Do you know why this is?
For me.

Bottle pressure is around 950ish
fuel is at 6.0 psi.

What is the magnifier for. I know you can see the plugs better but what are you looking for? can't you tell if the plug is lean or rich with out? or is this for tuning at a much finer scale? When I first put the system on I did a few runs on the strip, shut down after run, then immediately pulled the number 1 and 6 plug. Figured I would get to the easiest and one in the middle? 8 is alot to pull on a test and tune night.

Of coarse I have made runs to get exhaust gaskets and trimmed them to fit after blowing them off on the spray. I have also became a fan of multi plate head gaskets :)

Not sure what calculators you're using, got some links to them for me to test out?

Your tuneup is relativly safe, but you could squeeze a bit more out if you wanted to.
I would say 5.5psi fuel, and 1000psi N20 would be the spot for your combo, but I wouldn't suggest doing that if you're looking at your plugs with a naked eye.

The magnifier brings out TONS of stuff you normally wouldn't see. You think the plug looks great, but under magnifacation you can see stains on the porcelin, "pepper flakes", color changes, and even little itty bitty balls of metal (microscopic pieces of your piston) stuck to the porcelin.
Each thing you see tells you what the motor likes or dislikes, and you make your tune-up changes from the info you collect through the microscope. Like I said in an earlier post, it's the best $10 I've EVER spent on my N20 program. I actually bought 2, 1 as a backup, but I might even order 2 more as extra backups (I'm big on having extras of everything).

Oh, and cylinders 4 & 5 seem to be the leanest on any of my motors. I pull every plug after every run and look at them all, but it's the corners I pay particular attention to when using the plate. The plate just doesn't have the precise tuning capabilities like the fogger, but it still works REALLY well (I won 2 NMRA Championships only using my plate). With the plate, you need to tune for your leanest cylinders, which will be the corners on a SBF, especially 4 & 5.

If you're looking for a good head gasket, Cometic makes killer MLS gaskets, and the Felpro MLS is awesome too. I've blown the regular Felpro gaskets with a 150 shot, but have hit my new motor with 300 on the 2 stage plate and haven't had any issues with the MLS gaskets.
They're a little more $, but well worth it and beats the hell out of O ringing.
Good luck!

thanks, I will play with it some more.

as for the links.. every calculator I found using google. came up with close to the same result.

Myself I run Cosmetic. I had good luck with them when I raced my old 250r and had to put a new piston in it ever three or so races. haha...