Ok, as I was in Home Depot today checking out some other bathroom cabinets (since Lowes didn't have a huge selection), I came across this Gasket Rubber material. and it slapped me in the face... PERFECT for making a gasket for my hurst shifter since it's the exact thickness and it's durable.

I'm going to finish this tutorial tomorrow night and take all the pics while I'm cutting it up and installing it. I'll prolly have some extra rubber left over and might be able to mail y'all some pre-made gaskets!!!

EDIT: FINISHED
Please keep in mind, you want to make 2.. yes 2 identical gaskets for the thickness to be correct!!!

Here's all the stuff you'll need
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/hurst/IMG_8738Medium.jpg

You can use your older template (as I did in this pic)
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/hurst/IMG_8733Medium.jpg

or you can measure a 3-1/4" circle with a 1" circle in the middle.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/hurst/IMG_8734Medium.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/hurst/IMG_8737Medium.jpg

Now cut it out, add the "breather" slot and use the hole punch to make your screw holes.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/hurst/IMG_8740Medium.jpg


install and VIOLA!
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/hurst/IMG_8741Medium.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/hurst/IMG_8742Medium.jpg

Finished!!:chug:

updated.

awesome. this should be a sticky!

Yeah sticky this thing. Nice gasket. Give us some updates as to how it works.

I basically did this with the gasket that Hurst provided in the kit. It still spits oil, just at the top where the shifter mates to the tranny instead of the tail stock seal. Hate to burst your bubble, but we're gonna need to look elsewhere.

Sean

this may work compared to cuting the factory hurst as its a little thicker allowing an actual vent.
I am not saying it will or wont I hope it does becaus right now the only place oil is coming out of mine is at the top wich has sucessfully made its way underneath my carpet and ruined it.
So I am looking for a solution if not I am going to knock one of the pins that held the origional shifter in and run a vent from there to the engine bay I shouldn't get any splash from the gears there as the factory vent was on top of the sifter

Well either way, let us know!

Sean

on mine i made my own gaskets out of gasket paper stock, did away with the hurst gasket entirerly. i tried putting a vent in the top cover right behind the shift tower but it would always blow oil out in short spurts after the trans would warm up. with the hurst gskt gone, im hoping it will vent around the pivot "ball" simialr to what it did stock. i havent noticed any leakage and the last time i checked my trans oil it was full and the case wasnt under pressure. ive got some pennzoil sycromesh to try out in my trans, hoping for a brake in the weather to change it out. heres a interior shot of my hurst, i put a small 1-1/2 extention between the shift ball and chrome lever, makes it a bit better for me :)http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l241/racsan_2006/fordtruck002.jpg

ok... in conclusion:

the husrt kit come with a bad gasket and we need to make a custom one?

With a body lift, you think i can install it ?

should be able to, theres a plenty big enough hole in the floor to work with. got my trans fluid changed out a week or so a go. running pennzoil syncromesh fluid in it. trans wasnt under pressure or low on oil when i changed it, took oof the shifter boot to check on fasteners for loosening and all was good, looks like it may very well be venting at the piviot point inside the "cup". i have noticed that since changing the oil to syncromesh, the lever doesnt feel warm near the boot like it used to, might be a bit qiueter. shifts as good as it did before, you could just cut away the portion of the hurst gasket where it seals against the shift finger, basically thats what i accomplished by making new gaskets, my original was tore up some after a couple of times of being togther and took apart. i wouldnt cut that notch in the side of the gasket like in the pic, it will leak out of that spot for sure.

i dont know if i want take a chance to spil oil with that shifter... :/

patatewz, trust me, it's worth it.

UPDATE:
I have now gone 6000K miles (2 oil changes) without ANY leakage from my transmission. The gasket I made is working beautifully, no leaks or anything. (keep in mind I did cut a hole in the front, not the rear)

Pickupman, silly question.. but what part of Home Depot did you find the gasket rubber? I searched around for 30 mins and found nothing!

I'm not sure. I found it on an end cap near the plumbing section I believe. In the picture there is a # on the packaging of the gasket, not sure if that will help.

sweet definitly trying this out! thanks PickupMan92!

Pickupman, silly question.. but what part of Home Depot did you find the gasket rubber? I searched around for 30 mins and found nothing!

I got a "free" hurst shifter and the gasket that come with it was toast so I used this method, just wanted to say thanks for a great thread. And by the way I found the gasket material in the faucet repair section in plumbing at home depot.

Glad you searched and found this! How do you like the shifter so far? I'm still loving mine with every click of every shift :E

Glad you searched and found this! How do you like the shifter so far? I'm still loving mine with every click of every shift :E
My truck is currently immoveable on jack stands but just from sitting in the cab and shifting it I can tell Im going to like it alot more then my stock shifter.

I called hurst and they make a new gasket for this shifter because there where alot of complaints on leaking. Just call tech support and get them to send you one, should be free of charge.

You ever get that gasket? I'm just curious to see what it looks like. Def glad Hurst has fixed the issue though :thumbsup:

Nope hurst F'd me, i never got any of the parts they promised to send me. I made one out of gasket maker, seems to be working fine.
Hurst customer service is a joke!

Nope hurst F'd me, i never got any of the parts they promised to send me. I made one out of gasket maker, seems to be working fine.
Hurst customer service is a joke!

you can say that again! I've called their customer "support" several times and they've never picked up... I left a message, and of course no replies.

So this 250.00 {inc s&h} shifter I have comming for my rig is gonna leak when installed with the parts "as delivered"?

And, the short of the fix it a full {no notch cut} new rubber gasket {proper thickness} with the center hole a little bigger than the shifter {for venting} is the fix?

Tell me guys, cause my shifter will be here on Wed..

the design of the "factory" hurst gasket shouldnt pose a problem, as it is "folded" to expand with pressure. (its hard to explain without a photo, when you see your gasket, it makes sence) the problem is though, the gasket is very thin and can tear easily. i made gaskets out of gasket paper and have had no issues. the opening post with pictures is yet another idea. you can always try the kit the way it came and see if you have issues with leakage. its not like youve got fluid gushing out every transmission seal / gasket. good luck, the shifter is a much better improvement over the factory setup.

I have the same problem. So what is the best way to fix it? Get gasket paper or what? What exactly should the gasket look like when done? I know there are pictures first post but is that the best way?

if it works , it works. what worked for me was making gaskets out of gasket paper material and putting between the body of he shifter and where it meets the trans. and because i needed that (included) part to have the correct fork-engagement lever length i needed to put a gasket there also. ive not had any issues since. if you look at the pic in the opening post, my paper gaskets were the same size as what he did with that thick material, i just didnt put a slot through the side of it. here is a picture of my shifter with the boot removed. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l241/racsan_2006/connectionfailed002.jpg

Hey Q can you tell me the thickness of the gasket rubber you are using because the one i found at home depot today is 1/16" in thickness. Im asking because my hurst came in today and the gasket rubber i have seems a tad bit thinner than yours. Thanks

Will

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/images/icons/icon4.gifhttp://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/images/icons/icon4.gifhttp://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/images/icons/icon4.gifhttp://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/images/icons/icon4.gif
Ok guys... I'm making an update and a new gasket. my previous gasket, to be honest, looked like crap, but worked for a long time.

HOWEVER.... using a soft rubber allowed for contraction and eventually the allen bolts loosened themselves and ended up with me shifting into second gear and with my entire shifter in my hand and out of the transmission.

Now with that being said I am working on making a new SPACER out of plexiglass. It should work. If this does work, I will make more of them and sell them (NOT for profit, just shipping and cost of supplies) to anyone on here that needs one. If anyone thinks this won't work, PLEASE LET ME KNOW as I want to find a final and permanent solution for this effin shifter so everyone doesn't have to worry any longer.

here are pics of the new SPACER compared to the old gasket.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/IMG_3437resized.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/IMG_3438resized.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/IMG_3440resized.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/IMG_3439resized.jpg


I am planning on gluing line trimmer fuel line hose in the yellow rectangle part I cut out. This will allow any air (and or fluid that spits out) to be direct onto the ground.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/IMG_3438resizedLarge.jpg

well, its a idea. try it and see how it works out. id almost put a small containor on the framerail and run the hose to it, then you would know for sure how much if any fluid was venting out. as always keep a eye on fluid level, low fluid is the # 1 killed of these trans. mine is still doing fine, its not as noisey as it first was. sometimes its not even noisey at all. oh, and it helps to use some blue loctite on those 4 bolts mounting it to the trans, blue not red. use a solvent like brakeclean to remove any oil from bolts/threads. ive heard of others who didnt loctite and had looseing issues.

I think I might use a water bottle for that container... I'd really like to see how much it's spitting out. Thanks for the tip on the loctite too :thumbsup:

Ok, well my holes weren't 100% perfect, like 98%... so I have to go back and drill 2 of them out a bit. My main concern is if there will be enough thread on the bolts to go into the tranny. Here are some progress pics. If anything I can swing by my local nut and bolt store and see if they have anything like this, just maybe a 1/8" - 1/4" longer. I am planning on putting a water bottle at the end to see exactly how much this thing vents or spits out. Maybe if there's enough I can show Hurst and maybe a miracle will happen and they will fix it.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/IMG_0589Medium.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/IMG_0592Medium.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/IMG_0594Medium.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/IMG_0595Medium.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/qwertman123/IMG_0597Medium.jpg

What abut using your rubber gasket and putting a drop or two of thread locker on the bolts that vibrated loose?

yeah you can do that I guess... I'm set on making a spacer because I think the rubber gasket allows too much contraction.

so how is the new one with the hose working

Thats what I was thinking only I was going to use the original spacer and drillin out a small hole on the side and taping it to put a 90 degree elbow from like a vacume line kit and just run the line some where under the truck or in the engine compartment away from heat sources. im waiting for my sealent to fail before I do it otherwise letting it vent through the shifter seems to work just fine for now
best of luck

I used the first gasket idea and put thread locker on the 4 allen heads and its doing great. Best mod EVER!!!

the new spacer is working great! I need to put some thread locker on the allen bolts, but I put the hose into a plastic bottle to see if it leaks or not and it doesn't, but I CAN see and feel the hot air venting into the plastic bottle, so I know it's working. I'm gonna work on making more of these if anyone is interested. I'd only charge a couple bucks + shipping if anyone wants one. I have to cover the cost of my supplies.

the new spacer is working great! I need to put some thread locker on the allen bolts, but I put the hose into a plastic bottle to see if it leaks or not and it doesn't, but I CAN see and feel the hot air venting into the plastic bottle, so I know it's working. I'm gonna work on making more of these if anyone is interested. I'd only charge a couple bucks + shipping if anyone wants one. I have to cover the cost of my supplies.
i would like one of these so youll have to let me know when you get more made.

the new spacer is working great! I need to put some thread locker on the allen bolts, but I put the hose into a plastic bottle to see if it leaks or not and it doesn't, but I CAN see and feel the hot air venting into the plastic bottle, so I know it's working. I'm gonna work on making more of these if anyone is interested. I'd only charge a couple bucks + shipping if anyone wants one. I have to cover the cost of my supplies.

Awesome man. The rubber gasket is working great for now. What did you use to keep the hose in place on your spacer?

99greenmachine, give me about a month. I'm just busy taking care of gf and family stuff after work to work on this.

I used gorilla glue to hold the vent tube in place on the spacer. 99greenmachine, remind me in a month if I forget, but I'll make a few just in case anyone else wants them too.

99greenmachine, give me about a month. I'm just busy taking care of gf and family stuff after work to work on this.

I used gorilla glue to hold the vent tube in place on the spacer. 99greenmachine, remind me in a month if I forget, but I'll make a few just in case anyone else wants them too.

cool, just shoot me a pm whenever you get it made, thanks.

Hey did you ever get anymore gaskets made? I did the rubber gasket mod on mine and I just noticed that I have been getting some leaking on my shifter. Its kinda leaking all around the spacers. :sad2: I'd like to buy a spacer. Thanks

***edit: what thickness of pexiglass did you use?

Well I guess I got a couple people interested so I can work on making a couple pieces.

I used 3/8" plexi and will try and get around to make them this weekend. It's probably only going to be a couple bucks to ship so just so PM your addy when you get a chance guys and I'll ship em out for free. It'll be up to you to get hose though as I don't have anymore fuel line, sorry. and you *MIGHT* have to do some trimming drilling to get these to fit perfectly. I'll do my best but all I've got is a jigsaw, grinder and a drill bits lol.

Hmmm.... Here's a thought. What if i cut a vent for the aluminum spacer that came with my hurst kit when I bought it? It included a spacer that was supposed to be used for older year rangers. Its already drilled with the right holes, it would just need to be cut with a cut off wheel and it looks the be about the same thickness of your spacer Q. What do you think?
I'm gonna try it tomorrow

****Update****

I looked for the box my shifter came in and found the aluminum spacer with the longer bolts to go with it. And today at work I went ahead and cut the slit. And this is what I got. I'm going to install it when I get home from work today. I'll let ya'll know how it works out. It should work as good as Q's idea with the pexiglass spacer. Of and the thickness is 1/4" thick. On to the pics

http://www.hi-upload.com/upload/uploaded11/spacer 1.jpg

http://www.hi-upload.com/upload/uploaded11/spacer 2.jpg

http://www.hi-upload.com/upload/uploaded11/spacer 3.jpg

http://www.hi-upload.com/upload/uploaded11/spacer 4.jpg

That looks like it would work perfectly! I might look into getting longer screws or using a good thread lock on the regular bolts.

I bought my shifter used and don't remember mine coming with that :/


and to be honest people, I forgot about this thread. Just got busy with life etc.

I have a older ranger and I needed the spacer so how did you seal the shifter from leaking after you cut it? Is the gasket needed if I use black gasket maker between the spacer and transmission instead?

I just used the rubber gasket included with the kit. I placed the spacer in between the gasket and the shifter. And the cut faces forward too.
Like this:
___O
___I I_____
{__________}
{_Shifter___}
[_spacer___]
--gasket----
(transmisson)

I've got the original 'rubber gasket fix' on mine for the last 10k and it's been working perfectly...no leaks at all. Of course, my bolts are locktited and tight as hell. My gasket looks alot worse than the pics in the original post. see...

http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu42/fx4wannabe01-2/P6190114.jpg


But before I used the red rubber fix, I used paper gaskets....still leaked...even more hardcore.


I've been thinking about an alternative. You guys are adding a chunk of plexi or the 1/4" spacer.....using those spaces the shifter stub in the trans higher. Wouldn't that cause some issues with the shifter and the shift rails??? My truck didn't require the use of the spacer that comes in the kit.....trucks that require the spacer are the early Gen M5od's. My alternative involves machining a breather vent in the piece that bolts to the transmission itself. Machined 1/2 the thickness of the base piece in two locations. In the end, it'll be very similar to the original 'fix', still retain the proper depth of the shift arm inthe trans, and similar to what is pictured below...

Grey areas are the machined areas.

http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu42/fx4wannabe01-2/-Misc%20Blah/hurstfix.jpg

It does set it higher in the transmission, but it's either that a rock and a hard place kind of problem.

I like your idea, but I don't know if I want to experiment with a $200 part;) lol

Experiment performed on mine, confirmed by another local hursted friend of mine, great success(insert borat pic here).

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=255145


Not getting anything out of the vent relief notch. I've been using the alternative fix thread for my findings(linked above). I'm so satisfied, that I'm considering not even running the hose to the firewall.

I might look into that once the body is a little higher :spy:

should be able to, theres a plenty big enough hole in the floor to work with. got my trans fluid changed out a week or so a go. running pennzoil syncromesh fluid in it. trans wasnt under pressure or low on oil when i changed it, took oof the shifter boot to check on fasteners for loosening and all was good, looks like it may very well be venting at the piviot point inside the "cup". i have noticed that since changing the oil to syncromesh, the lever doesnt feel warm near the boot like it used to, might be a bit qiueter. shifts as good as it did before, you could just cut away the portion of the hurst gasket where it seals against the shift finger, basically thats what i accomplished by making new gaskets, my original was tore up some after a couple of times of being togther and took apart. i wouldnt cut that notch in the side of the gasket like in the pic, it will leak out of that spot for sure.

I know this post is over a year old, but DO NOT put syncromesh or any other gear oil in your M50D!! The M50D has an excessive amount of tiny needle bearings used through out it. Mercon ATF is required for theses trannies because it is thin enough to get into those needle bearings. Gear oil is way to thick for the Mazda trans and will ruin it. If you want to put a better fluid in your M50D, then use full synthetic ATF. I am currently runnning Royal Purple and it makes the trans run a lot quieter.

-plumcrazy

ive actually had this fluid in my trans for 2 years now, its not a gear oil, probly closer to a 20-30 wt motor oil. here is a link-->http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/pesyfl1qtbo.html ive had no problem due to useing this oil, and it does get in the 20's and teens in the winter. when i got the replacement transmission 4 years ago, it actully said to use 5w 30 engine oil in the trans. i did for a bit then went to mobil 1 syn atf then i found out about this fluid.

ive actually had this fluid in my trans for 2 years now, its not a gear oil, probly closer to a 20-30 wt motor oil. here is a link-->http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/pesyfl1qtbo.html ive had no problem due to useing this oil, and it does get in the 20's and teens in the winter. when i got the replacement transmission 4 years ago, it actully said to use 5w 30 engine oil in the trans. i did for a bit then went to mobil 1 syn atf then i found out about this fluid.

Syncromesh still isnt as thin as ATF. You would be better off sticking with the Mobil 1 synthetic ATF.

-plumcrazy

What year model does the husrt shifters fit? I read some where they only fit 1988-2003?

all mazda M5od trans. including 2010.

all mazda M5od trans. including 2010.

Thanks.