First off everyone I'm no expert. I just kept seeing a lot of people asking about this, and I had to replace mine so I figured why not take a few pics and help some people out. So here goes; First off gather the tools needed. All I needed was: 1) 5.5mm socket for the 2 bolts on the Camshaft Positioning Sensor, 2)10mm socket for the bolt that hold the Cam Sync in place. (Just like the Distributor hold down bolt) Both of those sockets were 1/4" drive, I also used a 10" 1/4" drive extension. 3) 13/16 spark plug socket 1/2" drive with universal. A 2" extention would work also instead of the universal. 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar to turn the motor over. The spark plug socket fit the big bolt on the front of the crank. That's how I turned the motor over. Also I used a small pry bar to help lift the Cam Sync.
Ok so much for the tools.
Now locate where the Cam Sync and sensor are located. They are located on the passenger side rear of the motor. Slightly in the middle and just above the oil pressure sending unit. Here is a picture of my engine on an engine stand.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee115/mrmrrck/DSCN0413.jpg
Notice the bolt that holds the Cam Sync down and the 2 little bolts on top of the sensor. Also notice the angle of where the sensor is pointing.
There is a wire connection on the sensor, so you'll have to disconnect it before removing the Sync assembly.
So now let's get started!
First off since we are working on the engine either disconnct the battery or as I did I just disconnected the connector at the coil. Don't want any mishaps here...
1) Disconnect the connector from the sensor. It just pulls off like other wire connectors.
2) Use your 5.5mm socket and remove the 2 bolts on the sensor. These are capture bolts so they will not fall out.
3) remove the sensor by lifting it straight up.

At this point look down on the sync to see where the finger (as I call it) is pointing . It's like the rotor in a distributor.
Right here you can go 2 different way...
1) mark the Cam Sync where it mounts to the engine and mark where the finger is pointing within the Cam Sync. In this route you will not need to find TDC. You're just replacing the Cam Sync assemble with the better one. This is what a lot of you will try to do. You will NOT need the Cam Sync tool if you are going this route.This will be a route you can take if you have a good Cam Sync, but it has a lot of miles on it.
2) TDC route- Notice where the finger is pointing and you will have to turn the motor over until it's is at TDC.
I'll cover each way..
If you a going route #1 mark both the relation of the Cam Sync to the block and the relation of the finger to the Cam Sync. after both are marked, either with marked or chalk,ect.. remove the hold down bolt. (10mm) Now lift the Cam Sync out. While lifting notice how for the finger turns to the left (counter-clockwise). You might have to use that small pry bar to assist lifting the Cam Sync. Once you have the Cam Sync out, set up your new Cam Sync just like the finger was in the old Sync. If your finger was right in the opening then you'll have to remember to move the finger slightly to the left.(slightly to the left of the opening)Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. Wherever you marked the finger location, remember to move the finger slightly to the left or you will not be lined up.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee115/mrmrrck/DSCN0697.jpg
After you have your new Sync ready, (the markings) Just some lubricant (I used Cam lube) and lube down the gear and the landing and rubber ring above the gear. This will greatly assist you in the installation of the Sync.
Now slide the new Sync into place. Don't get in a hurry here! Remember the bottom of the Sync goes on top of the oil pump shaft, then the gear lines up with the cam. Slide the Sync down. This is just like what you would do if it was a distributor. If it jams up or will not slide down, (DO NOT force it) just wiggle it a little. If that doesn't work, pull it back up and realign it and try it again. Remember to have the finger pointing slightly to the left before it engages the camshaft. Once it lines up (and it will line up) then finish pushing the Sync down into it's spot. This is where the lube comes in handy. Before bolting it down tight double check to make sure you finger and the Sync are on your marks. You should be able to turn the Sync slightly if you are off your mark. If your finger is off then you will have to pull the Sync back up and realign. Do this as many times as you want, until everything is back on your marks. Once everything is lined up , then tighten down the hold down bolt. Making sure nothing moves as you are tighting. Once that is done replace the sensor back on top of the Sync and tighten down the 2 5.5mm bolts. Connect the wires to the sensor, and the battery and you are done. Congratulations
I'll cover the TDC method tomorrow, Got to get ready for work...Hope this will help someone.

Excellent pics!

I am doing the swap this weekend. I recently did the Sea Foam thing and plug/wire swap and then promptly noticed the "squeak/chirp" in the engine bay. Changed the belt, etc. to no avail. Stupid CPS.

I went ahead and bought the Motorcraft DA2094 and the synchro tool (per Boss' warning) and should receive the parts this week. I am looking forward to it, but as I've never messed with timing and TDC before, I am a bit nervous. However, if I continue to ignore this, my engine might explode and kill several schoolchildren (probably.)

Anyway, I am looking forward to your tutorial on the "TDC" method :naughty:

thanks man

Good stuff! well I'm looking at your pictures and this can to me as I've been pondering the cause(s)of the failures. While some seam to say a bent cam may be it, we also know that they dry up from lack of lube and chirp which over time makes them seize and take out the gear and oil drive. So besides the lube issue after looking at how it is clamped down I am wondering this. Is the washer clamp that holds the unit in place putting load on the one side to the point it is not inline and in fact pushing the gear into the cam at an angle?. The reason I say this is on old style hold down clamps they were like a fork and pressed down pressure on both sides of the unit. Anyone care to comment on this?

Second issue, while I have not ,but will shortly be replacing mine so I have not held it to have a good look but. Why would one not open it up by making some more holes in the housing to get more oil to splash feed into it to help it live, again any comment?

this guy is VERY helpful! Glad to have him as a fellow member.

Fixed :Links working 7/25/09. Ill try and get a new picture of the current Sensor for the Synch as the one pictured is the older one with the magnet actually inside the sensor with no protective housing. The newer sensor has a housing for the magnet to prevent anything from breaking off and flying around the Syncho and messing it up. Pictured is the result of such an instance happening.


Excellent post. Very informative. FOund it randomly searching and thought id add my 2 cent. I was gonna make a write up a while back and never got around to it. Heres some pics of a cam synch that has been destroyed.

I also found while doing changing out mine it wasnt necessary to remove upper intake manifold. Had i not done that i could have changed this thing out in 20 mins. I also found that having the ford tool made the job cake, though many have done without it, im just super anal and can afford to make a mistake on something like that. OTher then that, the job is extreamly easy if you have the know how (can you do an oil change?....yes, ok , your set) and the "ford" tool (optional to some).

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp279/iindicaii/RPS-Dont%20Delete/IMG_2398.jpg

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp279/iindicaii/RPS-Dont%20Delete/IMG_2399.jpg

first two pics you can see how the top piece of synch is completly bent down, check out pics of mrmrrck new one.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp279/iindicaii/RPS-Dont%20Delete/IMG_2400.jpg

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp279/iindicaii/RPS-Dont%20Delete/IMG_2401.jpg

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp279/iindicaii/RPS-Dont%20Delete/IMG_2402.jpg

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp279/iindicaii/RPS-Dont%20Delete/IMG_2403.jpg

sensor its self got chewed up from magnet breaking off and flying around inside. The new model one dont have the magnet exposed like the old ones do.

Shortly after replacing this i had the magnet in the sensor its self break again, knowing what it was i stopped the truck pulled it off and changed it before any damage could be done to top part of Synch like first two pics shown. Went to auto zone and they had a new model the carried. Guess the other ones keep F**k'n up.

Fyi if you can get the sensor without the magnet piece exposed get it, theres no way for anything to break off cause the magnet is incased in the sensor its self.

Hope this helps.

Wow my Sync didn't get that bad. Glad you found that out before it was too late.

Some exellent posting in this thread. :thumbsup:

FWIW, like iindicaii says, the pics he posted show how a CMP synchro can get wasted by a sensor magnet that breaks off and gets jammed up in the spinning syncro vane. (In fact, this is what happened on my Taurus GL vulcan). Note however that this type of failure is distinguishable from the other lubrication-based failures that seem to be on the rise. The causes are different, and the consequences, as well.

Lubrication-based CMP failures result in a stripped synchro shaft gear which causes the oil pump driveshaft to stop spinning and the pump to stop pumping. We all know what that means. :(

The type of failure shown by iindicaii's pics, on the other hand, does not cause the synchro gear to strip, so there is no concern with the oil pump. It will continue to spin and the pump will continue to function.

Good stuff! well I'm looking at your pictures and this can to me as I've been pondering the cause(s)of the failures. While some seam to say a bent cam may be it, we also know that they dry up from lack of lube and chirp which over time makes them seize and take out the gear and oil drive. So besides the lube issue after looking at how it is clamped down I am wondering this. Is the washer clamp that holds the unit in place putting load on the one side to the point it is not inline and in fact pushing the gear into the cam at an angle?. The reason I say this is on old style hold down clamps they were like a fork and pressed down pressure on both sides of the unit. Anyone care to comment on this?

Second issue, while I have not ,but will shortly be replacing mine so I have not held it to have a good look but. Why would one not open it up by making some more holes in the housing to get more oil to splash feed into it to help it live, again any comment?You have raised some interesting points. :yup:

Im sure im missing something obvious, but you said to mark it before you take it out, and when you put the new one in, put it back on the marks. The new one isnt going to have the marks right? Also, you said the finger will turn to the left as you lift it out. When you put it back in, do you position the finger as it was before or after you took the old one out. Sorry if I confused you, I was just trying to make sure I get this right if I do this.

Thanks

MJ Place the finger the same way as the old one once it's out. Also if you mark the old one, try to do the same (as close as you can) on the new one. If you lube the Sync before you put it in, you can then move it (left or right) to make it look like the old one. Hope this helps.

I see your point about the hold down. I like the old (chevy) hold down. I might change mine over to that. Maybe one from a 5.0 or even older (289) As for more holes, you can drill holes on the Sync but the gear is pressed on.You would have to press the gear off then drill the holes. Clean the Sync, to get all the shavings out, then press the gear back on. (Very Doable) The bearing that is going bad is at the very top of the Sync, so I don't know if any more oil will get up to it. It should I just don't know. What I do know is that Boss is working on a few Syncs to see if he can solve this problem. If anyone can solve this, Boss can.

Good stuff! well I'm looking at your pictures and this can to me as I've been pondering the cause(s)of the failures. While some seam to say a bent cam may be it, we also know that they dry up from lack of lube and chirp which over time makes them seize and take out the gear and oil drive. So besides the lube issue after looking at how it is clamped down I am wondering this. Is the washer clamp that holds the unit in place putting load on the one side to the point it is not inline and in fact pushing the gear into the cam at an angle?. The reason I say this is on old style hold down clamps they were like a fork and pressed down pressure on both sides of the unit. Anyone care to comment on this?

Second issue, while I have not ,but will shortly be replacing mine so I have not held it to have a good look but. Why would one not open it up by making some more holes in the housing to get more oil to splash feed into it to help it live, again any comment?

mrmrrck,

Can you please fix your broken images? :)

I'm trying to find out how to replace my cam synch gear without blowing my truck up :quagmire:

Thanks!

Threepointslow,
Which pics are bad? I just went back and they all came up for me. Hey pm me and I'll send you the pics you're looking for. Also check out the part 2 article, it has a couple pics also. Hope this will help you out.

Threepointslow,
Which pics are bad? I just went back and they all came up for me. Hey pm me and I'll send you the pics you're looking for. Also check out the part 2 article, it has a couple pics also. Hope this will help you out.

PM sent.

All the images up there are broken on my end for some reason... just a white box with a red X

Actually just checked it again and it looks like your image links are being blocked at my work...
I'll have to check this thread when I get home.

Thanks!

I get a message saying the images have been moved or deleted by photobuckit

Bruce, I just open up the write-up and all the pics worked. What pics didn't work for you?

mrmrrck, they don't work for me either. Getting the same error message as Bruce

Just opened up the write up and all the pics showed up. If you want I can pm you with the pics in order.

Your pics work fine for me. Maybe people are getting confused, as the pics ii_ndica_ii posted have been moved or deleted, not yours.

are you using a motorcraft replacement or an aftermarket? im just wondering because if the stock one is failing regularly, why replace it with the same product?

regardless. do you have a part#?

thanks

...regardless. do you have a part#?

thanks

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=226289

Listed at the bottom of mrmrrck's initial post in that thread (Replacing the Cam SyncPart 2). I used those P/Ns in my '98 B3000, werkt perfectly...

BTW... Thanx for the great write-ups, mrmrrck! I wouldn't have attempted it without those great pix!

Great write up, swapped mine out about an hour ago using method 1. The only hard part was making the finger be in the correct position when it was fully inserted.

mrmrrck,

Can you please fix your broken images? :)

I'm trying to find out how to replace my cam synch gear without blowing my truck up :quagmire:

Thanks!

Hey guys, sorry bout broken links. Havnt been around here in over a year. I have the original pics still and ill upload them sometime today. Again my fault.

I replaced my cam synchro a few weeks ago, using the TDC method.
The installation went flawlessly after marking the synchro and trying
to align everything, and the truck started and ran fine.

Afterwards, I ordered the cam synchro tool, and checked the 'timing'
of the synchro. It was off slightly, even though I was very careful
with installation. Maybe the PCM compensates for slight misalignment??
Regardless, I feel better after using the tool and timing it correctly.
This is so precise a setting, the tool is a necessity in getting it
perfect.

As to the TDC marking, I would have sworn there wasn't one on my
04, and I looked very closely. I counted 5 tone ring teeth after the
gap in the ring to get TDC, and aligned the tooth with the crank sensor.
This indeed worked.

HOWEVER, out of curiosity, I rubbed the rust off with a scotch-brite pad,
and to my amazement there was a '0' and degree marks right at the
fifth tooth, marking TDC. It's very light, and hard to see, but it's there.

My thanks to all involved in this thread. Since this is such a widespread
problem, and a potential engine killer, we need all the help we can get.
It certainly saved me a world of grief.......

Something I've found handy is after you scrape the rust off get some chalk or something and rub it slightly over the numbers and stuff and it will be easier to see.

Links have been fixed/updated.

Excellent pics!

I am doing the swap this weekend. I recently did the Sea Foam thing and plug/wire swap and then promptly noticed the "squeak/chirp" in the engine bay. Changed the belt, etc. to no avail. Stupid CPS.

I went ahead and bought the Motorcraft DA2094 and the synchro tool (per Boss' warning) and should receive the parts this week. I am looking forward to it, but as I've never messed with timing and TDC before, I am a bit nervous. However, if I continue to ignore this, my engine might explode and kill several schoolchildren (probably.)

Anyway, I am looking forward to your tutorial on the "TDC" method :naughty:
Thanks you for the post.