I got started on Project Silver Bullet today.

Here's a few pics as promised...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/SilverBulletBegins.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Almostout.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Buick215FirstTestFitting.jpg

In goes the mock-up motor...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Buickgoingin.jpg

No oil filter worries...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Nooilfilterclearanceissueshere.jpg

I'm happy with the preliminary test fitting, just waiting for my oil pan and bellhousing so I can get down to the nitty gritty.

I stuck the Ranger rad back in to show how much room I have, about 3 1/8" from the fan hub to the core.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Roomforafan.jpg

The oil pan mounting surface is about 5" above the main crossmember. I believe the deepest part of the pan is about 5 1/2 to 6" from about mid block on back.

The front part of the pan is probably less than 2" so I could set the motor lower once the old mounts are out of the way if I want to.

Looks like the 215 will be a natural for this swap, I think it will go smoothly with great results. The aluminum block and heads are SO easy to maneuver.

Stay tuned...

Mike

Looks like a good fit!

Pretty cool project. Looks good. Keep us updated with pics.

looks sweet, what are you going to use for a tranny?

Interesting swap. Do any rover parts fit this old motor?

Thanks guys, I think it'll be a sweet project and not very difficult, lots of room.

The trans will be a T-5 GM model, mated to the 215 Buick with a custom made aluminum bellhousing from D&D Fabrication. I'll be using an HTOB connected to the stock hydraulic master cylinder.

Yes, many Rover parts work with the Buick as well as some parts from the Buick V-6. I have a Rover EFI lower intake coming that will bolt right up as well as a Rover pan and pickup to convert to a rear sump.

Mike

:secret:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/1962-1963-oldsmobile-f85-jetfire1.htm

http://www.ctcautoranch.com/Featured%20Items/Turbo%20Charger%20Setup%2062%20Olds%20F85/Turbo%20Charger%20Setup%2062%20Olds%20F85%201.JPG

WOW!!! Now there's an early performance piece... Olds factory turbo set-up for the aluminum 215. My how things have changed!!!

Mike

So how much money are you going to have tied up in this project?

Well, I paid $300 for the truck but will likely get about $500 out of the trans and 2.3 so that gets me in pretty cheap to start.

The turn key motor complete will run 4 G's, toss in shipping, a custom bellhousing, a decent used GM T-5 and a few other essentials and I'd guess around 6 G's. That's not to say I couldn't/wont spend more but I'd say that will get me mostly where I want to go with the basic project.

A junkyard 5.0 and T-5 could make for a cheaper "entry fee" but I really want something different that's capable of good balance and great mileage while having enough power to be fun. I'm sure I'll be about 12 lbs per HP including driver so it will move right along when I want it to.

I'm set on having Mark at D&D Fabrication build my motor, ( It's already on order), as he is an expert on the 215. It will be run 2 hours and dialed in so when it arrives it will be bolt in and go. Having the mock-up motor will make it easy to have everything ready to go so I can have the 215 installed and running in one weekend. So far I'm having fun and it looks like everything is just falling into place.

Mike

Well, I paid $300 for the truck but will likely get about $500 out of the trans and 2.3 so that gets me in pretty cheap to start.

The turn key motor complete will run 4 G's, toss in shipping, a custom bellhousing, a decent used GM T-5 and a few other essentials and I'd guess around 6 G's. That's not to say I couldn't/wont spend more but I'd say that will get me mostly where I want to go with the basic project.

A junkyard 5.0 and T-5 could make for a cheaper "entry fee" but I really want something different that's capable of good balance and great mileage while having enough power to be fun. I'm sure I'll be about 12 lbs per HP including driver so it will move right along when I want it to.

I'm set on having Mark at D&D Fabrication build my motor, ( It's already on order), as he is an expert on the 215. It will be run 2 hours and dialed in so when it arrives it will be bolt in and go. Having the mock-up motor will make it easy to have everything ready to go so I can have the 215 installed and running in one weekend. So far I'm having fun and it looks like everything is just falling into place.

Mike

Keep me updated I like this project. I'm not to fond of the price tag though on another note thouse ports look healty why are they so low on hp stock just because of the small cubes? What does that 215 weigh? The 5.0 is a pretty light engine. Any plans to spray it or boost it later on?

I'll be posting as I go...

I know the price seems high but for an all aluminum turn key crate motor I think it's pretty reasonable. "Stock", (as built by Mark @ D&D), at 225hp/250 tq is more than a stock 302 HO and more than 1 hp per cube.

More power can be had for sure but not my goal at this time. There's always room for a mild boost setup later on but current plans are leave it as built.

The 215 is unreal for a lightweight V-8. It is easily 160 lbs lighter than an iron headed 302 and 100 lbs lighter than the 2.3 4 cylinder I just removed.

How's this for light???

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/REALLYLIGHT.jpg

Block with main caps and a pair of bare heads... lift it with one hand!!! No BS, these things are LIGHT!!!

Mike

Iron bore I assume? BTW nice mug shot. lol

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/REALLYLIGHT.jpgNo BS, these things are LIGHT!!! MikeWhere did you get that?
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/5451/logohv7.jpg (http://imageshack.us) ????
Is that a pathetic pot plant growing out of that other Briggs & Stratton?

Yes, iron sleeves from the factory... mug shot huh??? Yeah, not one of my better pictures... :)

I got the old 2.3 mounts out of the way and dropped the 215 back in with a pair of stock motor mounts bolted on. It's setting low enough that the valve cover clears the heater box so I wont have to clearance it. :)

Scored a pair of Rover aluminum valve covers, an EFI lower with plenum and rails and a Rover factory ECU. Just lacking a MAF, injectors, harness and a few sensors now.

Removed the bench seat and cleaned the cab up for the arrival of the bucket seats sometime next week. Bellhousing should be here by the end of next week.

Progress, little by little... I'll post up some more pics when the intake stuff arrives.

Mike

Where did you get that?
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/5451/logohv7.jpg (http://imageshack.us) ????
Is that a pathetic pot plant growing out of that other Briggs & Stratton?

Get what??? :)

No man... around here we call 'em Spruce trees and we don't smoke 'em, although I'm sure someone has tried... :)

Yes, iron sleeves from the factory... mug shot huh??? Yeah, not one of my better pictures... :)

I got the old 2.3 mounts out of the way and dropped the 215 back in with a pair of stock motor mounts bolted on. It's setting low enough that the valve cover clears the heater box so I wont have to clearance it. :)

Scored a pair of Rover aluminum valve covers, an EFI lower with plenum and rails and a Rover factory ECU. Just lacking a MAF, injectors, harness and a few sensors now.

Removed the bench seat and cleaned the cab up for the arrival of the bucket seats sometime next week. Bellhousing should be here by the end of next week.

Progress, little by little... I'll post up some more pics when the intake stuff arrives.

Mike

I wasn't sure if it was like a briggs and have alum bores. lol
I was going to say don't do it if it was that way talk about ware out fast!

Thats nice that it clears the heater box.:thumbsup:

Keep the pics comming!:thumbsup:

I had to look a second time to realize that motor was being lifted WITH heads attached. That's crazy lite!

Yes, the 215 is crazy light, I couldn't do that with my 5.0 block with NO heads...

It will be 100 lbs lighter than the 4 cylinder with a MUCH lower center of gravity. I need to get a good scale to weigh the pieces, I'd guess a bare head is about 16 to 18 lbs. and I think the crank outweighs the block!

Thanks to everyone for your interest and I'll keep the pics and updates coming.

Mike

good luck on the project looks good

Thanks!!! Got the old bench seat out a couple days ago, bought a new bucket seat for test fit and mount fabrication. Gives the cab a little attitude already.

I'll post some more pics by this weekend.

Stay Tuned...
Mike

What is the bucket seat out of or for?

Bucket is new from Schucks Auto, (Kragen, Checker Auto). It's a black "Racing seat" simulated leather pretty nice for the price.
I'll post pics this weekend. Mounting looks to be a breeze, took the factory bench seat mounts off the original seat, bolted them to the floorpan and the rest will be easy to fab/mount.

My Rover EFI intake pieces arrived today and look pretty cool sittin' on the Buick 215. Rover aluminum valve covers should be here tomorrow, I'll freshen 'em up and get some pics posted.

I'm STOKED!!! Does anyone still say that? :)

Mike

I had a '64 Skylark wagon with the 300 V8 (also aluminum). Be sure to run a good coolant mix and not just water, or it will eat the passages. Also, be careful when changing spark plugs, or better yet have helicoils put in when it's built.

Here's another 215:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1391/1344638700_1b1fa6bbf5.jpg?v=0

Hey Mike... cool project you have there:thumbsup:
Once I put the Lightning back on the road I might be looking for a Ranger to do a V8 swap.

OT
How's the 5 speed lightning holding up?

Chuck

Hey, another guy from the Pacific Northwest :). NICE chainsaw!!! Reminds me of the "Predator". Those things are BADAZZ!!! Now if we could just get them dang trees to grow sideways... hahaha!!!

Yes, I'll keep proper coolant in the 215, don't want to have any issues. I'll be running an all aluminum radiator too. I'll talk to the engine builder about the plug threads, I worry about that too... Thanks!!!

Mike

Hey Mike... cool project you have there:thumbsup:
Once I put the Lightning back on the road I might be looking for a Ranger to do a V8 swap.

OT
How's the 5 speed lightning holding up?

Chuck

Hey Chuck!!! How ya been? Hope things are going well for you. Any idea when you'll have the L done? The ol' Lightning is still running strong with near 205k on her. Still spankin' the unsuspecting now and then... sure is fun to drive.

Yep, I finally figured out how to remove even MORE weight from the L... jack up the radiator cap and drive a Ranger under it, HAHAHA!!! If you decide to do a Ranger V-8 be sure to put this place on your Favorites. This site is a wealth of information and a great bunch of guys.

The L is down to 3890 with the ARE cover off and the bed box out.
I'd have to remove another 1400 lbs to get to the Rangers finished weight, can you imagine???

Well, my EFI parts showed up but not my bellhousing, oil pan or Rover valve covers so I have no pics of the final test fitting to show.

I had to work Saturday 'til almost 10 pm anyway so all I did this afternoon was pull the gas tank and shield and the factory exhaust. Hopefully my parts will arrive tomorrow and I might have some time after work to accomplish something...

Mike

Hey Chuck!!! How ya been? Hope things are going well for you. Any idea when you'll have the L done? The ol' Lightning is still running strong with near 205k on her. Still spankin' the unsuspecting now and then... sure is fun to drive.

Yep, I finally figured out how to remove even MORE weight from the L... jack up the radiator cap and drive a Ranger under it, HAHAHA!!! If you decide to do a Ranger V-8 be sure to put this place on your Favorites. This site is a wealth of information and a great bunch of guys.

The L is down to 3890 with the ARE cover off and the bed box out.
I'd have to remove another 1400 lbs to get to the Rangers finished weight, can you imagine???
Mike

I've been doing fine,Thanks for asking...well my lightning has been down for about a year an a half....I killed it at 201,000 miles...built a 357, forged pistons,rods, stock crank,new Edl. Vic Jr. heads w/ 1.7 harland sharp RR...CR 9.3:1...arp hardware...etc...Hopefully within the next month or so I'll have it fired up

I've been lurking around here since 2006.... just never post anything because all my questions have been answered through SEARCH....Great site guys!:thumbsup:

Good luck on your ranger project Mike!:thumbsup:

Chuck

Right on Chuck, glad you're gettin' close to being back up and running. Sounds like a solid motor for the L.

I'm planning to retire the Lightning from work duty as soon as the Ranger is streetable. The cost of Premium to drive the L everyday is killin' me, plus I'm sure I'll be facing a rebuild before long if I keep driving it.

I'd rather sideline the L and spend the $$$ on my new, more fuel efficient daily driver. Good to know you're lurking here, check back for updates.

Good luck with the L,
Mike

Well guys, had to work this last weekend too but I did manage to fab some seat brackets and get my bucket test mounted. Haven't had time to clean up any motor parts but I figure dirty pics are better than none... wait, that didn't sound right... Anyway, here's a few pics.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/SilverandBlackAttack.jpg

These are Rover pieces including the aluminum valve covers...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Roverintakeandcovermock-up.jpg

Love the ol' time hotrod look of the lower plenum "stacks"

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/RoverStacks.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/RoverStacks2.jpg

Here's a shot with the hood closed showing potential for clearance...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/RoverHoodClearance.jpg

And the new seat...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/NewSeat.jpg

Hope to add more soon, depending on my work schedule...
Mike

Does that first pic have the engine in the truck if so you need to drop that bad boy.:chacha:

In the pic where you can see the front of the Lightning? Yes and no...

Bare block, bare heads,t-cover, water pump, Rover v-covers and intake yes...

Crank, rods, pistons, oil pan, cam, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, rockershafts, balancer, flywheel, starter, clutch and bellhousing no...

Then there's the trans, driveshaft, exhaust, fuel cell, another bucket seat, full size radiator, fans, accessories etc.

It will sit lower when finished but I'm considering dropping it a bit. I'll have to see how much once it's done.

I live on a rough gravel road and will be getting in and out of some pretty bad jobsites so I can't get too low.

It looks more like a 4wd right now, not the look I'm after...

Mike

Yes that pic, If you want to do it right you'll have to get some drop beams. They are around $600 not including springs and the drop kit for the back so...kind of pricy if you ask me.:grrr:

he could go lower an inch or two just by using springs, but after that you're going to need the beams. If he does want to go that low and get beams the whole kit with shocks and flipkit for the back is likek $540 from summit. just the beams are $330

This is what mine looked like after adding dream beams and flipping the rear axle:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_210_full.jpg

It rode great but the rear tended to bottom out against the rubber frame stoppers on hard bumps until I added the traction bar system. Stock springs and shocks all the way around at first; drag shocks added a little later. If this is the look you are going for, that's how I did mine.

sneaky sneaky sneaky!!
Whats up Mike. We're tunin' in here at the Ol Struckby garage seeing what your up too!!

Way cool project man!! I always admired your fab skills and spirit to try something new.

Goodluck on this project as well :)

EE-tuning in ;)

Well, well... talk about sneaky... look who's lurkin' on the V-8 Ranger forum. How ya been EE? Long time no hear 'eh?
Who ratted me out anyway? Hehehe.

It's good to hear from you and thanks for the compliment, always admired your skills as well...I may even need your assistance when it comes time to fab a wiring harness for the EFI and battery relocate.

Imagine... me converting a carb motor to EFI, now that's a switch huh? Yep, you know me, always tryin' to think a little outside the box. :)

You'll want to keep an eye out for progress reports, think this will be interesting.

Hope all is well with you and the FLA contingency... tell 'em I said "HEY!"

Mike

Yep, it sucks it costs so much to lower these things to any significant amount... I DO love the look. I have to keep it at a reasonable level to avoid bottoming out in some of the places I have to go, especially when I'm packin' several hundred pounds in the bed.

I may eventually convert to a Fatman Mustang II front suspension if I ever think of spending $$$ on a drop, that way I can have the tight rack and pinion too.

Dave, LOVE that little sleeper you got there, VERY nice!

Mike

Scored a nice used T-5 on Ebay, it arrived today!!! The D&D Fabrication custom bellhousing I have mates the 215 to a GM T-5. This one's from a Camaro. I decided to go with the .73 5th gear, should be more useable for my purposes and still deliver excellent highway mileage with the 308 rear gears. Hoping to do a test fit with motor, bell and trans this weekend if I have some time...

Stay tuned...
Mike

Wow a .73 5th gear and 3.08 rear end, this thing will be idling going down the highway, lol. I cannot wait to see some videos.

got to love that thought thou. bombin down the freeway and deside to just cruse, pop it over in to 5th and just take your foot off the gas. my buddys camaro does that... took a road trip to portland and got better gas mileage then my ladys honda..LOL...crazy huh over 30 mpg in a V8!!!

Man, I would LOVE to see 30 mpg outta this thing!!! I believe it will cruise at about 1800 rpm @ 60.

So I made some progress today guys, here are some pics of my mock up project...

Block, bell and T-5 united...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Trans-bell-block.jpg

Package going in...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/TBBGoingin.jpg

Heater box mod...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Heaterboxmod.jpg

Temporary aluminum cover in place...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Heaterboxmodcover.jpg

Firewall clearance, no hammering of the seams necessary...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/BelltoFirewallclearance.jpg

Lots of room, 15 inches from front of block to core support...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Blocktocoresupport15inches.jpg

T-5 right at home...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/T5Rightathome.jpg

Floor cutout...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Floorcutout.jpg

Shifter in place...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Stockboot.jpg

I'm liking this look!!!

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/TrialFitting.jpg

Side shot...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/215athome.jpg

Well, the oil pan they sent me was the wrong one so that will wait for another time.
I feel I made some decent progress today. The trans crossmember, not pictured, is a piece of
1 1/2" square steel tube, .095 wall thickness, set into the frame rails. I still need to fab an adapter for the 22* Camaro mount before I finalize the install.

This is a sweet project.

-Mario

This is a sweet project.

-Mario
I second that! Keep the pics rollin'!

Thanks guys!!! I'll keep posting pics as I make more progress... I appreciate everyone's interest in my project.

I know the GM thing isn't a favorite idea with Ford guys, I've always swapped Ford motors into my Fords... but this project seemed like the perfect opportunity to take advantage of the little Buick's potential.

I've always thought the aluminum V-8 was an ultra cool motor, since I was a kid... but I never had a vehicle small and light enough to put it to good use... until now. So far it's going together TOO easy!!!

Stay tuned...
Mike

Maybe I missed it or don't remember reading it but what are you going to use as electronics for the EFI? Sweet project!

Thanks, nice ride ya got there Matt!!!

The EFI intake and supporting pieces are Land Rover. The intake bolts up to the Buick 215 with the ECU duties being performed by a stock Rover unit and engine harness.

I have the ECU, just need a harness and a Rover MAF meter. Fuel delivery will be handled via an inline pump fed by an aluminum fuel cel. The stock fuel tank has been removed.

I'm working on fabbing up the engine crossmember mounting plates and hope to have them installed this weekend along with the trans crossmember and mount.

Mike

I know the GM thing isn't a favorite idea with Ford guys, I've always swapped Ford motors into my Fords...

Land Rover used to be owned by Ford, so we'll let it slide... this time. ;)

I know the GM thing isn't a favorite idea with Ford guys

I usually frown when I see non-Fords in Fords but nothing makes me cringe more than a 350 in a Ford. I see all of these show trucks and the guys spent $10,000's and then throw some lame Chevy motor in it. My dad always says its just because they couldn't find a Chevy pretty enough to put their motor in.

But I digress, if you're going with a non-Ford, at least it's not a 350.

I have to second that but this is a stand alone engine made by buick and its different than swapping in a 350.

-Mario

Hey guys, I appreciate you all cutting me some slack on this... very cool of you!!!

Honestly, if it wasn't for the fact that it's all aluminum and so light I doubt I'd have given it a second look.

If I ever do a high horsepower version I would probably consider the Rover V-8 which comes with crossbolted mains and is pretty cool.

Mike

wht motor mounts are you going to use? what pan? how long is this engine?

I am alos very intrigued.. very cool swap.. parts seem hard to get however.

I'm using the stock Buick 215 mounts, like for a 1961-63 Skylark.
They are compact, lightweight and best of all are a simple "through bolt" design with elongated holes.

The 215 is VERY compact, so is the custom bellhousing made by D&D Fabrication, who also can supply most any part you can think of including stroker parts. Mark is an expert on the 215 and has many years experience building them for everything from Vega V-8 swaps to Hydroplanes. As far as parts go alot of items are commonly available from your local autoparts store, in spite of them being built in the early 60's. I see and have bought lots of parts on Ebay. There are lots of aftermarket parts still available plus some Rover pieces are a "bolt on" swap.

I designed my own mounting plates that bolt to the crossmember using existing holes. A friend of mine who has some cool shop equipment was nice enough to help me get them made and did all the welding on them.

They attach to the factory mounts with one thru bolt per side.
I installed them today, leveled the motor and torqued them down. The cool thing is, now that they are bolted to the crossmember I only have to remove the two thru bolts to pull the motor and everything stays in alignment for the re-install. That is especially important since I am only mocking everything up and will likely have the motor in and out at least a few more times.

I will post up some pics of the mounts on Sunday.

I'll take some motor measurements and post them tomorrow too.
The 215 should fit anywhere you can swap a 302/5.0 but without the oil filter clearance problem plus the 215 is a front mount distributor unlike smallblock Chevy.

The 215 is also about 260 pounds lighter than an iron head SBC and about 145 lbs lighter than an iron head 302/5.0. There are Rover intakes for Roots style blowers and of course with a Rover EFI intake you can easily run a centrifugal blower or turbo.

Here's a pic of one in a little MG(?). A guy could get ideas lookin' at this kinda stuff...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Supercharger-A.jpg

Cool huh?

I also reinstalled the Camaro shifter into the T-5 with the shift lever rotated 180. Now the position works with the trans installed level. The Camaro T-5's are installed on a bellhousing that rotates the trans 22 degrees toward the driver. They compensate by laying the stick away from the driver 22 degrees so it's straight up.

As for the oil pan, I could make a stock pan work but I wanted the motor LOW and have been thinking of a custom made aluminum pan. Early Rover pans are supposed to fit but the one I got wasn't right. Now that the motor is bolted in and level, (side to side), I can take a serious look at how I want to design the pan.

I'm mostly working on the house this weekend so I wont get much done on the Ranger... :(

Stay Tuned...
Mike

Your project reminds me of a swap i did with a friend on his old Chevy Vega back in high school... He got the engine from a Olds Starfire[I think] that a neighbor had sitting in the garage and his Vega had a 4 banger in it.. God would that car run strong...

I doubt it but I might even have pics of it still somewhere.. That MG pic reminded me of the Vega and its engine bay.. Without the Roots blower though!!!!

Good luck on the Ranger and have fun with it..

That Vega swap sounds like a VERY cool project, I bet it was a blast to drive!!! D&D Fabrication has done over 2,000 Vega swaps since the 70's... it's a great lookin' car and light weight too.
Please post up a pic if you find one, love to see it.

The 215 is about the same weight as the Vega 4 banger but capable of alot more power. I was shocked to find that my 2.3 4 banger out of the Ranger is actually 100 pounds heavier than the little 215 V-8... I think I'm gonna need lighter springs!!!

I just noticed in your sig the 427 Ranger... HOLY CRAP!!!

Mike

I usually frown when I see non-Fords in Fords but nothing makes me cringe more than a 350 in a Ford. I see all of these show trucks and the guys spent $10,000's and then throw some lame Chevy motor in it. My dad always says its just because they couldn't find a Chevy pretty enough to put their motor in.

But I digress, if you're going with a non-Ford, at least it's not a 350.

They do it because the 350 block is one of the most versatile v8s out there. Many parts are available for it opposed to other v8's. Not saying I'm a chevy supporter or anything, but If I was on a budget for a v8 build, and a 351w wasn't feasible at the time, i'm sure I'd do a 350. I know where I can get one with trany out of a camaro, ready to go for 1200 dollars. Pretty cheap v8 swap if you ask me :P

This looks like an awsome V8 swap. Especially that mileage... If you can get upwards of 25mpg, that would be awesome!

Well my plans have changed and my mileage wont be as good BUT...

I just bought a 1998 Range Rover 4.6 motor with 82k miles which will reside in the engine bay of the "Silver Bullet" in place of the Buick 215. The factory specs are 225 hp @ 4750 rpm and 280 ft lbs @ 3000 rpm. Not bad for a stock pushrod motor. Oddly it's the same size as the current Mustang GT at just 281 cubes. It won't likely be as fuel efficient as the 215 but it should be impressive. It is all aluminum and though heavier than the Buick version is just 375 lbs complete compared to a small block Chevy at 575 lbs. I was feeling the budget crunch of late and felt my original plan would be too expensive. I compromised with a "salvage" motor that will be emissions compliant and easy on my budget... So I'm no longer dabbling on the "Dark Side"... more of a grey area... hehehe!!!

The good news is, the Rover variant will bolt right up to my newly fabbed mounts in the same position as the 215.
It also uses the same bellhousing so all my test fit and fab work was time well spent. I'll post pics when it arrives.

Stay tuned...
Mike

Still very cool.

still a very unique build! keep us all posted, especially with pictures of your prgress!

Thanks guys!!! You bet I'll keep posting my progress. I feel I'm much closer to a running truck now with the smaller budget. Once I have the 4.6 in hand I'll be down to the "little" stuff...
radiator, driveshaft, flywheel, clutch, exhaust etc. With a little luck and perseverance I hope to have her streetworthy in a month or so, not finished but at least driveable.

Stay Tuned,
Mike

I know you have the hole cut, and trans in, but if you're using a Chev BW T-5 trans, why not find a s-10 or Astro five speed tailshaft and top plate, and place the shifter in the stock location...
Worked stellar on my 347 swap, with some machine work (that you won't need) to fit the Ford Version...

I've seen similar setups done with the S-10 tailshaft and for a stock interior they work great. I wanted the shifter right near the corner of the drivers side racing bucket seat and the trans I bought came with a killer stainless steel heavy duty B&M stick which worked out great.

Looks like I'll be using a Mega Squirt system to control the Rover 4.6 injection system as well as spark with the addition of a crank trigger.

Stay tuned,
Mike

Well I got my Rover 4.6 all aluminum V-8 Friday and today did the first test fit.

Here's a few pics...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/46TestFit.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/46NestledIn.jpg

Check out the near perfect fit of the passenger side factory header... just a slight clearancing of the upper frame rail needed.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Passengersideheader.jpg

I think I can make the drivers side fit as well.


...and a couple of the updated look...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/SBcrop.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/SilverBulletClearDiamondLightsFr-3.jpg

Looking good so far,
Mike

Cool. The fact that that motor is 4.6L is gonna really confuse some folks I imagine. lol

Thanks! Yes, not what you picture when you hear 4.6 'eh?
The Land Rover on the intake should lead to a few confused looks.

There are lots of 4.6 emblems available but I have a 3.5 High Output emblem from a new Charger V-6 on the lower right corner of the tailgate... that should throw off the unsuspecting.

So I've doubled the displacement from the 2.3. The 4.6 stock is 225hp @ 4750rpm and 280tq @ 3000rpm with 9.35 to 1 CR. I'll be using the Mega Squirt system to operate and tune so I should find a few more ponies in there along with the Efan upgrade.

I can't wait to drive this thing!!!

How's this one coming along?

Wow, haven't been on in awhile, too much work and not enough truck time. I have managed to get the 4.6 bolted in, made a bracket to adapt a Camaro A/C eliminator pulley to bolt to the drivers side head.

Got a Rover alternator mounted, figured out the serpentine belt routing and length and installed it, got a new aluminum radiator, fabbed the mounts, installed it and bolted the original Ranger fan guard to it.

I discovered with the shorter distributorless front cover and water pump of the Rover serp setup I have enough clearance to mount the stock Rover viscous clutch hub and mechanical fan, just waiting on the fan.

The radiator is mounted behind the core support with easy access to the filler neck. All I had to do is cut a 1" square opening in the support on either side of the rad to allow the wiring harness to clear the radiator, it looks almost factory.

The radiator is a two row with one inch tubes, no trans cooler and is Chevy style, (drivers side upper, pass side lower), and measures 19 1/2" high, 26" wide and 2 1/4 thick. Got my upper and lower rad hoses on too.

I haven't got any pics of the progress yet but will post some as soon as I do.

Been researching the Megasquirt II EFI controller and hope to be implementing it soon along with the Ford EDIS-8 crank trigger ignition. Thats about all I have to report for now, thanks for the interest!

Mike

Still lovin the plan! Can't wait to see it finished!

If you are thinking MS-II, you might want to consider the MS-1 Extra as it does not require a chip change from a standard MS.

Thanks John! Glad you like the plan. Keep checking for updates...

I was thinking MS II 3.57 for some of the extra features including the IAC control. Buying a complete assembled unit from an authorized distributor. I'm gathering my EDIS-8 pieces and hope to get started on the wiring soon...

Here are a few pics of my more recent progress...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/RADIATORINPLACE.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/NEWFAN.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/ACIDLERBRACKET.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/FANFROMBEHIND.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/FANTORADCLEARANCE.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/NEWRADTHROUGHTHEGRILLE.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/OVERHEADSHOTOFSTOCKUPPERHOSE.jpg


As you can see this little V-8 is compact enough to allow the install of a 2.25” core radiator in the stock location and still clear the factory Rover fan and viscous drive with room to spare.

I have to say I am impressed with the way the 4.6 fits in the Ranger's tight quarters, leaving easy access to spark plugs, no oil filter conflict and several inches of hood clearance. It required NO firewall clearancing, not even any bending over of the standing seam between the firewall and floorpan.

I was easily able to fit an inexpensive “off the shelf” radiator and get this...
that upper radiator hose... it's the stock factory 2.3 replacement from the local auto parts store!

All in all, so far, it's been one of the easiest swaps I've ever done.

Stay tuned for more!
Mike

So what updates have there been?

Ahh yes... updates...
I pulled everything back out after that first test fit, decided to replace the timing chain and gears along with the water pump.

I wasn't able to locate a true roller type for this application so I shopped for Rover replacement pieces along with a factory Woodruff key which have been installed.

I removed the pan to have a look, observing the crosshatch still visible on the cylinder walls, pristine looking cam lobes, babbit still on the rod bearings, polished looking journals etc.

As I rotated the crank to get a better view I saw 4.0 stamped on a counterweight and after some checking verified what I have is in fact a 4.0 with a 4.6 intake tract.

Now that I'm over the initial disapointment... I am working toward getting the motor buttoned back up and into the truck.

Once that's done I'll be able to continue putting everything else together to the point of starting and tuning.

Obviously the economy hasn't been helping the cause and I'm up against the clock with a DD turning over 208K...

I have mounted the 36-1 trigger wheel to the back side of the harmonic balancer, thanks to a friend of mine, (Thanks Terry!!!), who machined a flat around the balancer hub and machined a centering bushing/mounting flange from scratch which I fastened with (4) 1/4-20 button hex head cap screws.

He also machined a billet aluminum plug with mount tab to replace the no longer needed cam position sensor.The EDIS 36-1 system operates off the crank trigger wheel and VR sensor and doesn't require a cam position sensor.

I fabbed an aluminum bracket that mounts the Ford EDIS VR sensor approx .040 away from the tooth surface of the trigger wheel, removed the Rover coil packs from the factory bracket and modified it to accept the two Ford coil packs and have done some preliminary exhaust design and layout work.

The exhaust is simple, compact and effective, consisting of a 2 1/2" crossover pipe from the drivers side header merging with the down pipe from the passenger side header through a Magnaflow stainless Y into a single 3" Catco convertor, 5' of 3" 13g tube, a Walker Dynomax Thrush welded muffler, a few more feet of 3" tube and out a Pilot Motorsports stainless, resonated, angle cut, rolled tip. If it sounds like I think it will, it'll be a cool tone for a Ranger... ; )

That's about it for now but I hope to have more to report and PICTURES soon...

As always, thanks for your interest...
I wish I was driving it last week!!!

Mike

Good stuff.

Good deal man

-Mario

what is the meaning of this Buick aluminum??




___________________
aluminum plate (http://www.preciseplate.com)

awesome build dude! cant wait to see it done...

Thanks guys, I'm havin' a blast doing it, can't wait to get it on the road!!!

I know, I know... Buick in a Ford... I've never done anything so... perverse... BUT, in this case I HAD to make an exception. I wouldn't have ever thought I would but, in my defense, the final version IS a Range Rover motor so technically speaking it's English, not GM... : ) Hey, it's an affordable all aluminum V-8, for me it's a dream come true, a 2600 lb V-8 truck!!! What could be better?

I've made more progress, finished the heater box mod, detailed the engine bay, (yuck was it dirty!), removed the brake booster and re-installed the master cylinder, mocked up the 2 into 1 Magnaflow stainless Y, Catco 3" high flow cat, single 3" exhaust through welded Thrush chambered muffler and Pilot Motorsports angle cut rolled stainless 3 1/2" resonated tip.

Just need to finalize the hanger locations and have everything welded up. Very affordable exhaust, simple, straight forward and tucks up under nicely. Should sound great and I'll be sure to post up some vids with sound clips!!!

Got a local metal fab shop building a custom aluminum fuel cell for me so I'll begin installing the fuel system soon. Still alot left to do but I'm gettin' there.

I need to get some pics posted up when I have time.

As always, thanks for your interest!!!
Mike

Here's what I've been up to lately...
Simplified the exhaust layout to save time, trouble, weight and $$$.
Still a 2 into 1 via the stainless Magnaflow Y , ( 2@ 2 1/2" into 1 @ 3").

I have the Y and 3" Catco convertor welded together occupying the space the factory cat was in, works great with the factory floorpan heat sheilding.

The Thrush muffler is welded directly to the cat and has a steel hanger I fabbed welded to the outlet pipe that fits the factory dual rubber hanger.

The 3" tailpipe is welded to the muffler and has about a 47* bend which points it out just ahead of the spring hanger and exits through the Pilot Motorsports 3 1/2" tip just ahead of the rear passenger side tire.

I think it looks pretty cool, I just have to fab a hanger for the tailpipe at the frame rail then all that's left is the downpipes from the headers merging into the Y. I'll get those done once the motor is bolted back in.

The fab shop was gonna charge me way too much for the fuel cell, ($305 basic and bare), so I ordered a sheet of .090 aluminum, 24" X 48" for $35 + $13 shipping and once again have enlisted the help of my friend Terry. We are gonna fab a more custom fitted fuel cell sometime in the next few days.

I got a new VDO fuel level sending unit, tipover check valve assembly, fittings and pickup tubing. I also got a BRAND NEW fuel filler pipe and steel tube with clamps and inner pipe, everything but the gas cap, just $65!!!
If you've priced one of these you know why I'm excited. I have my external mount EFI fuel pump with mounting clamps, inline filter and some steel line so I'm close to having a fuel system.

I'll post up some pics when I can, just figured it was about time for an update. Thanks for your interest and check back for more updates, it's gonna get interesting here pretty soon!!!

Mike

Just curious but in the name of saving money.. why didn't you just use the stock tank and pump?

What a great project! Keep us posted.

Out of the ordinary - I like it!

Cool swap!

Thanks for the compliments guys! Yes out of the ordinary for sure!

As for retaining the stock fuel tank... True it would be easier and maybe cheaper but the stock unit is HUGE by comparison and with the shield and steel mounting brackets quite heavy. Also I'd still have to modify it to accomodate a better fuel pump, replace the 17 year old stock pump and the fuel gauge sender which had quit working. That means dropping the tank etc which is unpleasant to say the least.

With the new custom fuel cell I have a new VDO sender, ($27), and an external EFI pump from Summit, (made by MSD-$85), that will support up to 500hp.

I'm very lucky to have a friend with a shear and a sheet metal break who can weld aluminum. Actually, I don't think there's anything the man can't fabricate. So my total cost for the fuel cell will be under $100 including the tipover/vent check valve.

It will connect to the stock filler tube plus it follows the contour of the frame rail, tucked neatly and safely away from road hazards and speed bumps. Then there's the weight savings. I'll weigh both tanks and accessories and report that info as well.

Though the cell will only be half the capacity of the stock tank it will be plenty of range between fillups for me. On the occasional long trip I can throw a five of fuel in back if I think stations might be more than a couple hundred miles apart.

I've got an ADDCO rear sway bar and hardware on it's way, hoping to order one for the front soon. Those will give it some stability in the corners for much better road manners. Of course some traction control will be in order too.

I also got my RAM HTOB, (Hydraulic Throw Out Bearing), and have a new bearing retainer on the way to replace the worn one on my used Camaro T-5. I'm gettin' there...

Stay Tuned,
Mike

A minor but notable update... I got the fuel tank filler tube with inner and outer hoses installed. The worst part was removing the years of built up dirt clods in the surrounding areas. Although the unit was listed as application specific I had to mod it to make it work. For one, the 3 holes in the fill tube mounting flange didn't line up with any of the 3 holes in my fuel door backing plate. I made a template off the old piece, transferred it to the new one and drilled 3 new holes in the correct positions.

The molded outer hose needed to be twisted around 180* to work. This left the inner hose pinched at the first bend as it is also contoured and needed to be twisted around too. Other than the extra time and a bit of effort it worked out well.

The better news is... my original Ranger driveshaft will work perfectly with the Rover motor placement. Once I remove large the anti vibe yoke and replace it with my stock Chev T-5 yoke it's going to bolt up, with no cutting or welding, in the exact stock length!

I was planning on a new custom built aluminum shaft but the stocker will get me by just fine and save some $$$ too.

Rear sway bar will be here Monday so when I have some time I can work on fitting it.

That's it for now,
Mike
__________________
Black '94 Lightning Original Owner TKO 600 5 speed 208k miles.

Silver Bullet 1991 Ranger GT R (Rover 4.0 all aluminum V-8

The better news is... my original Ranger driveshaft will work perfectly with the Rover motor placement. Once I remove large the anti vibe yoke and replace it with my stock Chev T-5 yoke it's going to bolt up with no cutting of welding in the exact stock length!

That's the kind of stuff that makes you crawl out, do a happy dance, and then go back to work. I'm looking forward to seeing this thing run.

Yep, HAPPY DANCE!!! That doesn't happen very often but what a great surprise!
Got the T-5 GM yoke assembled onto the driveshaft with a new U-joint and replaced the rear one as well. Addco rear swaybar arrived today, looks like quality stuff including urethane bushings, can't wait to get it mounted! I worked ALL weekend so no truck time for me... makes me grumpy! So much I want to do, so little time to actually do it. :(

Still no pics but I'll get some up soon!
Mike

Still no pics but I'll get some up soon!
Mikeplease please please!

I PROMISE to get some pics up soon... I have been working so much, then my spare time has been spent Ebaying, packing and shipping several items all over the country.

I had to build a shipping crate for one of my Buick blocks, another for a crankshaft, a pair of heads, cast iron exhaust manifolds, a cam, connecting rods, a lower intake, etc.

Then I got sick with some upper respiratory crud for a week, really bad case of it, YUCK! Of course that put me behind at work so I spent the last few days trying to catch up. I worked 11 hours today but have tomorrow off. I'm thrashed...

I did get my rear sway bar mostly installed last night after work, just need to drill four holes in the frame and install the bolts/nuts through the bushing brackets which are C-clamped in position.

It's a nice bar, powder coated gloss black. Sure can tell the difference, makes the leaf springs work together and greatly reduced the side to side body roll when I try to rock the bed standing in back.

The directions were confusing and the diagram was obviously not for my application but I figured it out. Would've went much quicker with the correct instructions and diagram...

The front sway bar arrived Friday, haven't even unpacked it yet, wonder what the instructions look like???

Stay Tuned!
Mike

Looks like you've been having a helluva time!

So a 4.0 V8 RangeRover engine? What're the specs on that one? Sounds like any sort of performance upgrade you'll ever do to that engine is going to be either a universal piece that you have to find out how to make work, or something totalliy custom.

Goooood luck, man.

Lookin` forward to some pictures.

Nice lookin' truck ya got there, VERY NICE!!! The 4.0 Rover V-8 in stock trim makes 190 hp and 250 ft lbs tq. Doesn't take much to coax alot more out of it. Not bad for a V8 that's 325ish lbs, about 100 lbs lighter than the 2.3 4 cylinder.

As far as performance upgrades you have all the usual options including aftermarket heads, a wide selection of cams, intakes etc. I'll be running/tuning my injection setup with Mega Squirt II which will find some extra ponies.

At a later date when money's not so tight a remote turbo will be all the upgrade I'll need. If that's not enough I'll build a 4.6 or a 5.0 Rover stroker out of my 4.0. I actually picked up another complete 4.0 to build while I'm driving this one.

The 1995 and newer 4.0/4.6 are crossbolted at all 5 mains making a near bullet proof 4 bolt main block, great starting point for a performance stroker.

Well today it poured down rain but I managed to get some pics anyway, please excuse the nasty looking underside, the flash makes it look worse than it is. My always wet gravel road makes it pointless to clean.

Okay so here they are!!!

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/100_9905.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Exhaust.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Tipside.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Tip.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Tip2.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Heatboxdone.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/100_9897.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/100_9904.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/100_9900.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/100_9902.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/CoverwithVRandCPSplug.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/CPSplug.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Triggerwheelandsensor.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Shaft.jpg

Here are a few of the rear sway bar install...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Rearswaybar.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/SBbracket.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Endlink2.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/BlackP-38/Endlink.jpg

Just from my very recient experience. It may boad well for you to put some locktite on the collector ring on the pulley.. a BMW this weekend at the track nearly blew his motor becuase they backed out and started to eat into the aluminum block like a lathe.

My thoughts exactly... and yes they are loctited, plus the threads and fasteners were cleaned with Brakleen and allowed to dry thoroughly before assembly. Thanks!!!

Mike

Brakleen

Brakleen is awesome! Just watch out for the stuff at O'Reilly's, it smells like cat urine! :puke: For a while, I thought a cat pissed in my interior at some point when I removed my seats. LOL

Pete

Yep, gotta love Brakleen, great stuff!

Until recently we didn't have O Reilly's here but they bought Schuck's, (Kragen and Checker Auto in different parts of the country), and I'm starting to see the "O" brand stuff on the shelves so THANKS for the heads up on their brand brake cleaner, that would O'Reilly pissed me off... :) hehe!

I looked over the install instructions for my front swaybar, they are basic and straight forward plus the diagram is correct. The nice thing is it requires NO drilling, (YAY!), as the bushing brackets and end link brackets use factory holes.

The front bushing bracket holes utilize the rearmost mounting bolts/nuts for the factory crossmember, (the one that dips down to protect the steering linkage), so I wire brushed the threads and shot them with PB Blaster to get them loosened up ahead of time.

I bet I can install the complete front swaybar kit in less than an hour.
I'll get some pics up of the install by this weekend. Next project should be installing the new custom aluminum fuel cell and the high pressure EFI pump and lines.

Mike

Soooo this morning before work I removed the two factory bolts from the rear mounting points on the crossmember to prepare for installing the front swaybar.

After work I figured I'd "slap" the thing on in no time before dinner...
First off, the factory bolts are supposed to be reused to attach the front of the bushing brackets, simple enough except that the slots were too narrow to accept them.

I had to take a large rat tail file to the slots and basically "keyhole" them to clear the factory bolts. Of course there's one bracket per side plus each bracket has a backing plate about an eighth inch thick.

The slots in the backing plates were also too narrow so in total I had to keyhole two brackets and two backing plates, aggravating and took a little time/effort but no big deal.

I mounted the bar with little difficulty but when it came time to attach the end link angle brackets to the I-beams I discovered the "bolts provided" did not match the factory threads... oh boy, so much for a quick project before dinner.

I went ahead and assembled both end links to the swaybar and I-beam brackets to make sure there were no other issues. All is well, now I just need to hit the hardware store for the correct bolts and I'll be done.

Even with the extra BS I had everything done but installing the two bolts in about an hour so I can't complain. The bar and hardware are nice pieces and beautifully finished and most importantly will be a major improvement in handling.

I still need to drill the four holes in the frame rail and install the bolts/nuts to complete the rear swaybar install. I'll get some pics of the front swaybar posted soon.

Later,
Mike

I took another look at the threaded holes in the I-beams and after some PB Blaster and a little manual thread chasing with various pick tools I determined in fact the "bolts provided" ARE correct, (12mm x 1.75 pitch).

I fought my way through one side and got the bolt in and torqued but decided when I'm in town today I'll buy a metric tap to make life easier. I did a cursory cleaning on the other side and soaked it in PB Blaster so tonight after work I should be done.

Mike

when i put my bar on i just took an extra bolt and cut a grove down one side to clean them

^^^ thats what my granddad taught me to do if i cant find a tap.

That's a great idea, like a homemade self tapping bolt. I thought of doing that too but I didn't have any extra metric bolts in that size/pitch. I bought a good quality 12mm 1.75 tap today for $4, worked like a charm. Guess I should consider buying a metric tap and die set... anyway, the front bar install is complete.

I'm hoping to get the holes drilled in the frame for the rear bar bushing brackets so I can get the bolts installed this weekend but looks like I have to work. If I have time I'll get that done and post a few pics.

Mike

Well the weather has been crappy for a couple weeks now, I hate not having a garage, especially with all the rain and wind. I have a "carport" shelter thing but the rain runs through on the ground like a small flood. I did manage to finally drill the holes in the frame for the rear swaybar bushing brackets and finish the installation.

When I deleted the brake booster in favor of manual brakes I had to remove a master cylinder firewall plate from another Ranger so I could re-mount the master on the firewall without the booster. The brake pedal lever for power brakes is different in the location of the stud from the fulcrum since less leverage is required.

The problem with converting to a manual setup is that the master mounts higher and requires the stud for the brake rod to be closer to the fulcrum for increased leverage as well as proper angle approaching the master cylinder piston.

Removing the brake pedal lever is no picnic on manual trans models since you have to extract the clutch pedal lever. If you've ever done this you know what I mean.

The clutch pedal lever has a long shaft welded to it that slides through the support and brake lever pivot and is kept in place by a circlip on the right side of the support.

In order to gain enough room to the left of the support to clear the length of the long shaft I had to move the main harness out of the way which meant unbolting the round multipin firewall connector from under the hood and separating the halves.

The inner half is held in the firewall by 3 pressure clips and once released allowed enough slack to pull the harness out of my way. When I thought I was almost there I realized the E-brake foot pedal mechanism was keeping the shaft from coming out the last 3/4" or so... aaaaarrrrgggghhhh!!!!

I wasn't about to give up at that point so I unbolted the
E-brake assembly, removed the cable and pulled the assembly out of my way. Success at last!!! But what a freakin' pain... did I mention there's no way to get into a comfortable positon under there???

I decided instead of replacing the brake pedal lever with a manual unit, (which would mean pulling the one out of my other Ranger... no thank you!!!), I would modify my existing unit and re-install it.

I got the measurements from my other Ranger, drilled a hole in the correct location on the lever and tapped it for a 1/2-13 shouldered bolt. I ran the bolt in from the same side as the factory stud 'til the shank bottomed in the threads and torqued the crap out of it, then I threaded a nylock nut on from the other side an torqued it down.

I cut the bolt head off at the appropriate length, ground it flat and chamfered the edge. Next I cut off the excess threads from the nut side and ground it smooth.

I had to make a brass bushing to step the new stud diameter up to 9/16, prefit the brake rod with black bushing, white nylon washers and brakelight switch to get the location of the hole to drill for the springpin retainer. I removed the pieces, drilled the hole and reassembled everything, it worked great.

I got the brake and clutch pedals back together along with the firewall connector, cut the part of the E-brake bracket that doubles as the drivers side dashboard mount, re-installed that piece and the lower dash access panel and called it a day.

So I finally have brakes again except for the E-brake which I am replacing with a Rover floor mounted hand brake. So much for those simple little mods that "wont take long"... :)

Mike