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This is my 92 Ranger. It started life with a 4 cyl but I decided to put a Mustang 5.0 in its place.

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Except for the 3"/4" drop, I have tried to keep the truck as stock looking as possible. The suspension drop components were from DJM. I used the dream beams up front and a flip kit in the back.

Here is a pic when I first got the truck and put the drop kit on it.

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I have always liked the sleeper look. New paint will be a future endeavor.

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I put a roll pan on it as well. I will fill it in to the rest of the body better when it comes time to prep for paint.

I used a 302 out of an 89 Ford Econoline van for my power plant. This is what the motor looked like right after I pulled it from the van.

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I rebuilt the motor and took it .30 over to make it a 306. I also added JE forged pistons in case I decide to put a power adder on it in the future.

The heads are TFS track heat aluminum. The cam is a TFS stage 1. To go long with the heads and cam are TFS pushrods and 1.6 ratio roller rockers. I also put in Cometic head gaskets so I don't have to worry about blowing head gaskets.

Here are some pics of the motor on the engine stand.

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I had to take out some of the material inside the valve covers to get them to fit with the roller rockers. This included taking out the oil baffle on the passenger side cover, cutting out the metal that the baffle bolted to, and taking out a bunch of little bars that were along the sides of the covers. Here are pictures after the clearancing.

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Roller cam conversion:

This motor came out of an 89 Ford E150 van. It is a 302 but it came with a flat tappet cam. I decided to retrofit it to a roller cam set up. Here is how you do it.

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These are the parts you will need for the retro fit. They are all stock Mustang 5.0 parts. You will need the lifters, pushrods, lifter guides(dog bones), and the lifter guide hold down spring(spider). Also try to get the 2 factory bolts that bolt the spider down in the oil gallery.

This is the only modification you will need to make. In the oil valley, there are two bungs directly in the center. These must be tapped so that the bolts that hold the spider down can do their job.

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CAUTION!!!! Be very carefull when you go to tap these bungs!! Directly underneath them are the cam bearings. If you go down too far with the tap you will wipe out the bearings. I mentioned earlier about trying to get the 2 factory bolts that hold the spider down. This is because, if you put in bolts that are too long, you will wipe out a cam bearing this way too.

After you have tapped these holes, you can now put in a roller camshaft and all of the related gear. It should look like this in the oil galley.

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To finish this conversion, you will also need to get a distributor gear that is compatible with your new roller cam. A distributor from a 5.0 Mustang will swap right in. The thing about the gears is flat tappet cams use cast gears and roller cams use steel gears. The two will not interchange with the cams and if you have the wrong distributor gear, it will not last more than a couple of hundred miles.

The distributors are identical except for the gears which are somewhat hard to identify by eye. The part number for a Mustang 5.0 distributor is E7SE-12A332-CA. Ford part number E6SE-12127-EA should also work fine.

Here are some pics of the engine bay after the 4 cylinder was removed.

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Next up was locating the engine and transmission in the truck. Here is a picture of the motor on the lift with my helper in the back ground.

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I used Mustang 5.0 convertible motor mounts to bolt the motor to the vehicle. With these mounts you can pretty much put the motor wherever you want. A common misnomer is that the Mustang mounts will make the motor sit up high. This is not true!

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This is how much room I have between the oil pan and the front suspension I beams. I intentionally put the motor down low. It is about 2 to 3 inches from contacting the suspension.

These are photos of the frame before it was drilled to accept the new mounts. The areas circled in red are APPROXIMATELY where I drilled for the mounts.

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The big thing to know when using these mounts is they go in opposite the way they would on a Mustang. If you look at the frame side of the mount, you will see it has one large stud that is offset. When this mount bolts to the frame, this stud should be orientated so that it is more foward towards the front of the truck. If you try to put it in the other way, you will quickly find out it is wrong because one of the mounts won't be anywhere near the frame.

My truck came with a 4cyl. I found that the passenger side mount(V8) kept going towards the upper hole from the old 4cyl mount. This was my starting and reference point.

The tricky thing about trying to figure out where to drill is that, the crossmember is at an angle with the mount studs. You have to compensate for this. What I mean is, if you bolt the mounts to the motor, drop it down so the studs touch the frame, and drill there, the motor will not sit right. As the motor mount lowers down into the frame, the studs will move down as well. You can drill from the origional point and then cut a notch down to accomidate for this movement. Or you can figure out how to where the final resting point should be and drill in this location. I ended up using some slots.

I suggest having the transmission bolted to the engine when determining where you are going to drill the crossmember. Make sure the transmission is centered in the tranny tunnel and this will help you line things up when it comes to the motor mounts.

To help yourself out when it comes time you put your new transmission in, fold this lip in the transmission tunnel over with a sledge hammer. I made a series of relief cuts in the lip in order for it to fold over easily.

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While you are in there, do your self a favor and pay some attention to the crossmember that runs underneath and ties the two suspension stabelizer arms together. Each side has 2 bolts, 2 rivets, and one large nut on the large suspension bar. Take this time to get those rivets out of there and replace them with bolts. This is in case you ever have to remove the transmission while the engine is in the truck. By taking out the rivets, you make that crossmember removable. It's next to impossible to get most transmissions our between that crossmember and the top of the transmission tunnel.

And some pictures of the motor after its initial install.

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This was taken shortly after the motor was put in. You can see on the left how close everything is to the A/C box. I had to notch the rear portion of it to clear the valve cover.

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The truck origionally came with a 5 spd manual. In order to install the new AOD, I had to make an adapter plate out of plate steel. The problem was that the origional transmission crossmember was too far back to work with the AOD. I made the adapter plate and used a polyurethane transmission mount for a Mustang 5.0 The plate moves the mount foward to the correct position to mount to the transmission.

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I used my origional driveshaft but swapped on the transmission yoke for the AOD. This AOD came out of a E150 van and I have been told it is slightly longer than the car versions. I don't know if that is true or not however. I had the AOD transmission rebuilt with red clutches, an A+ servo, a hardened input shaft, and a B&M shift kit. I put in a TCI 3000 stall speed converter to match the combo.

I swapped in a shifter out of a Mustang 5.0 in order to control the tranny. I still have to finish the interior work.

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Trying to fit the intake and everything else that goes with it became a headache. The problem is trying to fit the induction past the large A/C box on the passenger side in the engine compartment.

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Many people use a 90 degree EGR elbow from a 5.0 Ford Explorer in order to clear the airbox. I also got one and began to set mine up the same way. I ran into problems trying to run a Mustang throttle body with this as well as finding a throttle cable and TV cable long enough to reach the new position of the throttle body. I also couldn't find a bracket to hold these two cables and would have probably had to fabricate something. I got the throttle cable and bracket from a late model Explorer but there was no provision for a TV cable with that set up. I would have had to use a throttle body from an Explorer as well but there still would have been the TV cable issue.

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These are pictures of another Ranger that successfully used the Explorer EGR elbow. Pictures are courtesy of Gaelicvyk. :-)

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Then I learned that TFS made an EGR delete plate that brought the throttle body much closer in. Steeda makes a similar plate as well. I found that this plate is 3/8" thick. The idea behind the EGR delete plate is that you stop the hot exhaust gas from going back into the intake and heating up your intake charge which reduces your power potential. My main reason for using this was simply for gaining clearance for the intake tube.

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I mocked this spacing up using washers to see how it would allow the intake tube to fit. It worked but was pretty tight.

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Then a buddy and I decided to make our own plate from much narrower tool stock plate aluminum. You can see here how much narrower it is, but it is still super strong. The need for this plate was mainly to bring the throttle body in closer to the upper intake and provide a place to bolt the Mustang throttle cable bracket. The plate with the larger center hole was my template. It is designed to run a 90mm throttle body. The smaller one is what we made to work with the 65mm throttle body I have.

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This is the final product with our fabricated plate mounted in the appropriate place.

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And this is what the final product looks like. Everything clears the A/C box nicely. Now I can use the Mustang throttle cable and TV cable which are easily attainable cheaply. No more quess work!

I have since upgraded the induction with an Explorer intake. Here is the Explorer intake which is a version of the GT40.

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And here is what it looks like on the truck.

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I had the lower intake ported by Tmoss of corral.net to squeeze out a little more power.

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For fuel lines I used a fuel rail and lines from a 5.0 Explorer. The good thing about the explorer lines is they have a female end which attaches to the stock Ranger fuel lines which have male ends. The lines were much longer than I needed so I ran them up and over the brake master cylinder. It's not the cleanest install but I don't think it looks all that bad.

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Here you can see where I put the oil filter using the filter relocation kit. I mounted it to the frame, just ahead of the front tire. I have good clearance from it with the street tires.

I used the front engine accessories from a 5.0 Explorer. This freed up alot of room between the motor and the radiator. i had first used the accessories from a 5.0 Mustang and had only 2 3/4" between the two. Here is what it looks like now before the radiator.

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I had to cut a little notch out of the driver's side bracket in order to have the ability to move the distributor to time the motor.

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I also had to have a custom power steering hose made for the pressure side.

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The cooling system consistes of a 2 core, aluminum radiator that tucks up underneath the core support.

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I put in this fitting made by Moroso in order to have the filling point of the cooling system at the highest point. That way I don't have to deal with air pockets.

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I used a cooling fan from a Volvo and trimmed the fan shroud to fit perfectly over the radiator. The fan is controlled by a DC fan controller.

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I intend to keep the air conditioning system functional. I live in Florida! The A/C condensor origionaly was located where my new radiator now resides. This meant that I had to move the condensor to the front of the radiator core support. To do this, I had to cut out a small metal brace that had been in the center. This brace was part of the metal just behind the front bumper and bolted to the radiator support.

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Here is a picture with the old Car Craft Poiter showing you where that brace was located.

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I then moved the condensor to the front and bolted it to the radiator support. I had to punch holes through each side of the support in order to have an opening for the hose fittings to go through.

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I took an old A/C hose assembly from a 4.0 Explorer and cut off all of the hoses so I just had the block that bolts to the back of the A/C compressor with 2 pipes coming out of it. I then took this to a local hydralic and hose shop and had them weld on AN fittings. I did the same for the fitting that comes out of the dryer.

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I then had this shop make custom A/C hoses for it. Here is what they look like installed at the compressor.

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Here is the supercharger:

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It is a Powerdyne supercharger and is currently pullied for 6lbs of boost.

To go along with the supercharger, I got a set of 42 lb injectors and a matching C&L mass air meter.

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Here are some pics of the install:

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I still have more than enough clearance between the blower pulley and the fan.

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I had to move the volute on the blower to get it at more of an angle that I can work with. One problem I ran into was the blower was hitting the valve cover. Nothing a die grinder couldn't handle.

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I then took it to a local tuner and had a custom discharge tube made and a dyno tune.

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For exhaust, I used a set of Kaufman long tube swap headers to keep up with the TFS cylinder heads. Unfortunately, Kaufman is no longer in business which is a shame because their headers are excellent.

To make sure that I would have enough room to fit them, I did some clearancing on the transmission and frame rail.

Here is how things looked before the clearancing.

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Here is how it looks now. I shaved off excess aluminum around the starter and took a little bit out of the top of the frame rail.

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Here are some pics of the headers before they were installed.

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And here are pics of the headers installed. First are pics looking down into the engine bay.

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Here are pics of how the collectors clear the radias arm cross member and the AOD transmission.

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I had an H pipe made and used a pair of Flowmaster 50 style mufflers. A pair of turn downs was welded to the other end of the mufflers.

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WIRING: I wired in an EFI harness from an 89 Mustang 5.0 to run everything. This is what the process of integrating it into the Ranger wiring looks like. Reading wiring diagrams for hours on end will get you loopy!

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This is what my work bench was looking like while doing the wiring.

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I used the wiring diagrams for the truck from Helms, A Chiltons manual covering 89-92 Mustangs, and a swap manual from Harwood Performance. This manual is written specifically for this swap. Helms has excellent diagrams and the are inexpensive. www.helminc.com

Wiring a Mustang EFI system is not a plug and play situation. I am told that the wiring from a V8 Explorer is. Just food for thought for anyone thinking about this swap.

In order to get traction with my new found power, I swapped in a heavier duty 8.8 inch rear end to replace the stock 7.5 inch. The rear now sports 4.10 gears.

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This is my new 8.8. It is at the top wearing a new coat of black paint.


I also took this opportunity to upgrade the fuel pump The easiest way to swap out the rear end and fuel pump was to remove the bed from the truck.

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After this, everything was easily accessible.

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And a pic of the top of the fuel tank. The large white ring is what you must remove in order to pull the pump and its housing.

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The good thing about this swap is the two rearends use the same axles and brakes. All I did was swap these items from the old rear to the new.

Here is one of the axles.

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Here is what the truck looked like once I pulled the old rear out and made preparations to put in the new. After pulling the axles, I pulled the brakes off the old rear by unbolting the backing plates and simply moving the entire housings out of the way.

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Here is the finished product.

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I had lowered the rear in the past by using a flip kit.

With much more power on hand, I welded in new spring perches in order to have the suspension much more solid but still retain the 4 inch drop.

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These are the traction bars I welded in. My friend who I got this set up from calls it a "top half 4 link". I have seen this used on several other cars with very good results.

Here are some pics of the brackets I made, welded on, and the final product.

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You can slightly see the bars behind the wheels.

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I have had the truck at the drag strip with these changes. The traction available is awsome. There is no sign of tire spin when leaving the line at full throttle.

In order to get more weight over the rear axle to help with traction, I installed a fuel tank that came from a BroncoII. This is what one looks like.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_162_full.jpg

The first challenge was how to mount this in the truck. I wanted the tank to sit lower than the bed so when the bed was put back on it would look like a factory install.

I used some strip steel I got from Home Depot to work as the straps. Then I fabbed them up, bolting the rear parts to the last part of the chassis frame. I also reinstalled the old cross bar from the spare tire carrier under the tank for added support.

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For the front, I made a new cross member out of angle iron. For now it will be bolted in but I may weld it in later. This will go across the frame rails just ahead of the tank and will be the front mounting point of the straps.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_173_full.jpg

I intended to take the whole fuel pump assembly out of the Ranger tank and put it into the BII tank. Here is the first problem I found.

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The two are different. In order for the Ranger unit to work, it will have to be spun around 90 degrees. I just cut off the two alignment tabs in the top of the housing and dropped it in.

I also had to cut out one of the cross members on the bed in order to clear the new tank. The cross member that was removed is the closest one on the saw horse.

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Here is the bed after the cut was made.

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The final problem was how to get gas into the new tank with the bed on. The options I considered was cutting the old fuel door out of the bed and moving it back to the rear, punching a hole through the bed floor, or mounting the fuel filler assembly behind the driver's side tail light and putting the light housing on a hinge.

I ended up putting the fuel fill directly behind the driver's side tail light.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_195_full.jpg

And this is what the final product looks like:

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Here are some pics of the 98 Cobra 17X8 rims I put on. Front tires are Kumho 234/45R17. I had to use a dremel to open up the center of the front rims in order to fit over the center hub.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_150_full.jpg
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I put a set of Nitto 245/45R17's on the rear. I love these tires! Excellent traction on both wet and dry pavement.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_210_full.jpg

The Final Product

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And the interior kick panel is back in place on the passenger side. By looking at it, you would never know what went on behind it.

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Auto Meter mechanical guages tell me what is going on with the motor.

Dyno and Performance Results

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And here are the results of my first outing to the 1/8th mile drag strip. I was only able to make 2 passes before getting thrown off the track for not having a helmet.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519188_330_full.jpg