View Full Version : swap a 3.0 into 84 B II?


dzk007
Feb 08 2002, 06:00pm
I'm going to be putting a 3.0 into my '84 Bronco II 4wd, 5spd and would like any advice for things I may have missed. I have the tranny,clutch and fuel sys figured out. any ideas on motor mounts, radiator, headers, cats(dual complete system). The motor is from an '89 aerostar, will the power steering pump on the 3.0 work for the B II? Thanx in advance!

Also the radiator is the original from the 2.8. Thanx for the tip on the ranger mounts, thats what i figured i'd try first. My big question is the power steering pump. it's from an aeropuke with rack + pinion. are there any issues with using it in my B II ?

Thanx Brandon

302 Ranger
Feb 08 2002, 07:33pm
Well if you have a 2.9 radiator, then you should be ok for the radiator. On the mounts, just get some 3.0 Ranger mounts..they should work.

Brandon Miller
Feb 08 2002, 11:55pm
Aerostar pump will work fine.

jholley
May 10 2002, 12:28pm
the 3.0 does not have the same bell housing pattern as a 2.8.the only way to get it to work is change the bell housing or get a tranny from a 3.0 ranger.

i was going to do the same thing as you and everyone was telling me it would work.nope.

i sold the 85 and bought me a 88 2.9.life is easyer now.

jason

dzk007
May 17 2002, 10:28pm
My 3.0L Bronco II is almost done. I swapped the bell from an '87 aerostar and the slave setup as well. This appears to work OK after I trimmed .7" off the pilot of the trannies input shaft. It was just to long. A ranger hydraulic clutch line fit perfect.
The A/C mount had to be milled 1/4 " to get the pump closer to the bracket. I needed to do this to get the bolts in with it beside the frame. (no biggie) . I had to chop the alternator bracket down because it was going to hit the hood. This is all from an aerostar so the engine compartment clearances are different than what a ranger 3.0 would have been.
I got a JBA header (james duff #3075?) and it fit ok but I had to shorten the crossover on the drivers side near the header flange. I had to do this to get the right exit angle for the cat connection. I then had to make a custom flange adapter to mate to my 2.5" cat. This was an easy job for someone like me but it did involve a lot of manual machining.
I couldn't get a set of ranger 3.0 motor mounts around here for a decent price so I choped the 2.8 one's off and made new mount plates for the block. i then dropped the motor in where I wanted it and marked and welded them together. This was time consuming but not difficult. The 3.0L oilpan doesn't clear the frame cradle and suspension the way I wanted it so the motor sits a little higher than I wanted it to. But not much.
Although I ported the entire engine by hand with a dremel and die grinder, I flow checked all the components and was within + or - 2% for volume at 6,000 rpm's expected need of 320cfm. I think I did extreemly well for not using a CNC mill. It should run like a scalded dog!! I can't wait!