Mmk, I've read and read on clutch bleeding processes and I have no clue as to which one works best. I dont understand the whole removing the master cylinder bit. I understand air gets trapped, but I don't understand how you are supposed to use the clutch pedal if the master cylinder isn't attached.
The process in the Haynes manual and what I got from TRS seem pretty straightfoward though, I believe I will try the one from TRS first.
Vacuum bleeding seems pretty easy, almost too easy, but from what I understand it is hard to get a good seal on the bleeder for my truck. Reverse bleeding does not seem that hard either, but I've read it can cause some problems with the line maybe?
What is the method that most people use?
What is wrong with bleeding it like a regular clutch? Just pumping and bleeding...
This whole clutch job has given me enough problems, I'm hoping to wrap it up tommorow, and I don't want to waste more time trying to bleed the clutch.
Any help is appreciated.

If there is a lot of air in the master cylinder, just pumping will not remove it because of the orientation of the master cylinder.

That is why people recommend removing the master cylinder, pointing the rod end down, and then pumping it - this will allow the air to move out of the master cylinder. That is what I ended up doing when the m/c was filled with air when I had the leaking slave cylinder.

The best way to do it is to buy the m/c and slave from Ford, because they are pre-bled complete units - you just install them and drive away!

Oh christ... I remember the HELL I went through this past summer, trying to troubleshoot a bad slave cylinder.

Here's what I've learned:
If you have to bleed your clutch, you have a leak in the hydraulics somewhere.

Bleeding the clutch (regardless of the clutch master cylinder orientation) is only a temporary fix and will only prolong the inevitable.

98% of the time, it's the clutch slave cylinder that is leaking. 1% of the time, it's air in the clutch master cylinder. 1% of the time, the plastic hydraulic line connecting the clutch master cylinder to the quick disconnect on the clutch slave cylinder is cracked or leaking somehow.

It's NOT necessary to remove the Y-pipe (4.0 models) from the exhaust manifolds to R&R the clutch slave cylinder. I still have nightmares about removing that damn transmission...

Lastly, bleeding the clutch is a pain in the ass no matter what way you look at it.

Actually, I used the method in the Haynes manual/on TRS, and it seemed to work. I may have to do it a few more times, but the pedal is fairly stiff. It is working fine. I'll wait a few days, drive it a bit, and see if it still works for me lol.