Well, I have decided that my project is taking a completely different turn...

I started with a 94 ext. cab 2wd Ranger equipped with a 4.0L, 8.8 rear, and a blown 5 speed that I bought for $100. The original plan was to install the drivetrain from my wrecked 88 Mustang GT in it, fuel injected and 5 speed. Well, I ended up picking up another Mustang (an 89 GT this time), that had some good stuff and a better foundation under it. I bought the car running with adjustable clutch quadrant and cable, BBK open element intake tube, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, BBK long tube headers, full length welded subframe connectors, off-road H pipe, and a brand new Flowmaster cat-back. All for $400. Couldn't pass it up. Then I got a deal on a Vortech T-trim for $700 and decided that the 306 had to come back out of the Ranger. The 306 was already balanced and blueprinted with forged pistons and a Trick Flow Stage I cam with 1.72 Ford Motorsport roller rockers. Add a Ford Motorsport main girdle, Romac balancer, Cobra intake manifold,a different cam and aluminum cylinder heads and it says blower motor all over it.

Well here's the new plan: BALLING ON A BUDGET. Go as fast as possible for the least amount of money. I got a C-4 trans from an old truck that I parted out and planning on a running 302 from a Lincoln Town Car. I already have the correct headers and mount plates made up for the V8 swap into the Ranger. I also have 20' of -8AN fuel line laying around and a 650 Demon carb. And a B2 tank is going between the frame rails.

So, carb it for a while and run the piss out of it. Then, as money and time dictates- go TURBO! Rear mount like an STS kit is the plan. No mods to the headers, just stick it on in place of the muffler with an oil pump, run some pipe with a carb hat and a blow through carb and rock OUT!!

Got some updates on this project.

I will be attending Pinks All Out at MIR in June with this thing. The B2 gas tank idea went right out the window. I was tired of laying in the slop at the junkyard and decided to just use a nice new clean 10 gallon fuel cell instead. I got a Holley Blue pump with a filter mounted on the frame rails ready to go.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740022_large.jpg

This is the motor. Not one from a Lincoln but one from a Mustang. I had bought a wrecked 88 Mustang GT ragtop for $300 and parted it out. I made my money back on the car, so basically, I have decent motor to start with for nothing. There might be $250 total in that engine, which included a new Professional Products 50 oz. balancer, a nice rubber oil pan gasket, a new Melling oil pump, the intake manifold, and the paint. Everything else I had laying around in the shed.

The kid I bought the car from told me it ran well as evidenced by the wat he wrapped it around a phone pole. I tore the engine down and found that it was 100% bone stock. I degreased it, and pulled a main cap and found shot bearings but the crank was still ok. and the cross-hatches were still in the cylinder walls. So here's what I have:

Stock bore 302 with forged pistons and new bearings
Trick Flow Stage I cam .499/.510 lift 221*/226* duration
New double roller timing set
ported E7TE heads with ARP head bolts
Ford Motorsport 1.72 ratio roller rockers
Summit Stage 2 dual plane intake manifold
Melling standard volume oil pump with new pickup
ARP oil pump driveshaft
Professional Products 50 oz. harmonic balancer
Demon 650 carb
Patriot Tri-Y headers
All backed by a fresh AOD (soon to be C4) with a stall converter

Haven't decided whether to juice it or do an STS-style turbo setup, but we'll see. I know that the heads will most likely be replaced with some aftermarket aluminum ones.

Looks like you got a good start. Shoudl have a pretty decent little motor.

ill be watching

Cheap and good! the best way to go.

I'll have some pics of the truck up soon. It's got '01 sheet metal, an Edge hood, drop beams and springs up front with a flip kit and flipped shackles in the rear, 17x9 and 17x10.5 American Racing Torque Thrust IIs on it with 245/45R17s and 315/35R17s respectively. I know alot of people are like "WTF 17s?? Where's the Welds??", but these wheels are actually really lightweight, lighter than 14" steelies. So, stay tuned.

Well here's some pics:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740002_large.jpg

Pic of the truck right after I bought it for $100

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740017_large.jpg

Motor Mount plates

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740019_large.jpg

2001 sheetmetal with lights and 17"s on it

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740023_large.jpg

Empty engine bay awaiting the new motor

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740024_large.jpg

10 gallon fuel cell mounted in the bed on the truck


EDIT: I changed things so your pics show up right in the thread. To help out the lazy ones like myself that don't want to go clicking back and forth.---Pinellas50

sweet looking project man keep up the progress pics for us

Nice ranger :)

Updates:

Well, not doing the turbo idea anymore. The mini is now bottle-fed. I did a trade and got a plate nitrous system, complete with purge kit, 10 lb. bottle, bottle brackets, everything but the jets. The fuel system is 100% installed and ready to go. MSD 6AL box and Blaster 2 coil are installed and wired. I have '06 taillights and sidemarkers installed as well as the Edge fiberglass hood. Also I have the 2003 Mustang seats inside as well.

Just gotta tie up some loose ends (block off holes where the heater box was and few other holes in the fire wall). Other than that I gotts wait for it not to be so blue azz cold so I can drop the motor in. I'll get some pics in a bit.

looks sweet man! im doing a 302 swap also. this cant be very hard, seems like everyone is doing it lol!

ive just never tried anything like this

Well bro, do plenty of research because dropping a V8 in a Ranger is a little complicated. Not as straight-forward as a swap in an S10, that's for sure.

Another update- got the jets for the spray kit, so time to get the install done...

Update 3/26: Motor and trans is installed. Headers are installed. Carb, solenoids, fuel rail, throttle bracket is mocked up. Starting off with a 150 shot and going from there. The jets I have for the other plate is for a 175 rwhp (about 210 crank) shot. I think that is a little much at the moment but we'll see what happens. Pics to follow soon.

Anyone got a PN for a Lokar throttle cable??

Well got an update and some pics. The comp has been on the fritz so that's why it took so long. I started the 302 yesterday finally. I ordered a Canton billet filter relocator since the TransDapt one I have leaks and doesn't fit very well. Also have some wiring to finish and still have to get the driveshaft cut down. So keep tuned...
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740027_large.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740026_large.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740025_large.jpg

Well I got some more pics and updates for ya'll.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740030_large.jpg

This is the Canton oil filter relocator. I should have bought this part in the beginning. The build quality and the fit is awesome. My buddy saw the part and asked if i was building a NASCAR.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740028_large.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740029_large.jpg

Mickey Stickeys- in 17s! The 315 street tires are gone and these take there place. This size ET Street is the only one that is a tubeless design.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740032_large.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740031_large.jpg

The engine RUNS! I flip 2 switches and hit the starter button, it roars to life. The motor mounts are a little weak, so I'm going to make a torque link to hold the motor still.

The Canton piece is nice,they also make a top quality pan.Trucks is looking good.Let us know how the tires hook up.Are they radials?

No, bias ply.

nice build... keep it up!

Update:
Well, now I am just waiting on some cash flow to get the driveshaft out of the shop. The alternator and power steering brackets are installed and ready for a belt. Looks like if I just get that GD shaft and bleed the clutch she'll be basically done.

It's been a while, but finally made some head way on the truck today. Got a hella amount of work done.
First, I was using a 1.75" flex hose for the lower radiator hose with my 4.0L Explorer HD radiator. Well, it was kinked and doesn't work too well. Ended up using a '92 Explorer lower that was trimmed a little with a piece of hose (which is like a 45* angle piece) off a 5.0L Mustang lower and joined with a piece of pipe in the middle.
Second, I finally got my driveshaft outof the shop. They did a PHENOMENAL job on it. I had it shortened, new carrier bearing installed, new U joints including an adapter U joint to use the slip joint from a Mustang and had it balanced. It slid right in and fit perfectly. Couldn't ask for anything better.
Third, I finally got the clutch working. I know for a fact that Rangers are a PITA to bleed stock and I hear they are a most royal pain when using the 280ZX slave cylinder. I used a vaccuum brake bleeder and sucked most of the air out and had a buddy pump it in between vaccuum sessions. Finally got that to work which was a HUGE load off my back.
And lastly, I got the exhaust installed tonite. Kinda sucks with the crossmembers the way they are because the dual exhaust is something you have to play with to get it to fit.
So, tomorrow may be the big day where the truck is mobile. This is 3 years in the making. Wish me luck.

Well, it's definitely mobile with no brakes LOL. Got a rotted section of brake line that needs to be replaced. All in all works pretty good. Just a note to everyone else who plans on using a 280ZX slave- be sure to adjust the clutch real tight otherwise it won't have enough throw to disengage the clutch.

Got some pics for ya'll:
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740035_large.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740037_large.jpg
Pics of the truck as of 7/15. I still have some odds and ends to do yet. One is to make some brackets to put the front bumper on, another is to get the taillights working.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740036_large.jpg
As you can see, I used billet accessory bracket and it kept the engine a little cleaner looking. The high heat paint on the headers didn't last too long, so I think I'm going to take then off and wrap them with header wrap. It should keep the underhood temps down some. You can also see the aluminum L brackets I made to keep the radiator in place.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740034_large.jpg
I was having an issue with the Lokar throttle cable binding up on me, so here is my solution to the problem. Drilled a hole slightly larger than the cable in the top of the gas pedal and fished the cable through it. No fab work required and it works great.

man ya'll make me sick. i hate everyone with a running ranger with a v8. sorry but it pisses me off! lol

jk, here lately i have been working alot more, but its coming along. not like this one did, but itll get there... one day

Dude it took 3 years to get to this point. Also took some serious motovation from some new friends.
It's still got quirks that need to be figured out yet. Definitely DO NOT like the shifter placement when using a stock T5 from a Mustang. So the hybrid T5 is definitely going in it this weekend.

Don't like the shifter placement with the Mustang shifter. Swapped that T5 out for another I had with the S10 tailshaft swap. MUCH better. Hurst shifter is on its way...

Got a little update from the Labor Day weekend:

Friday: drank beer so no work got done
Saturday: installed 4.10s and a Trak-Lok from a Mustang
Sunday: finally fabbed up some brackets to attach '01 bumper and Edge valance to my '94
Monday: Just look at the pics.

Before
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740042_large.jpg

After
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740045_large.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740044_large.jpg

Not bad for a $30 paint job. I still have some odds and ends to take care of. One would be to get a Hurst shifter still. I need to put carpet in it yet and I need to install the heater box.

this is one sweet build

Where'd you do your painting at?? I have some pieces I need to paint, but if I paint them inside, I think everything in the garare would get some major overspray...

dang dude.... that truck is looking hella nice! what heads are you using?

Where'd you do your painting at?? I have some pieces I need to paint, but if I paint them inside, I think everything in the garare would get some major overspray...

Painted it right in the garage its sitting in front of. It was raining out right before and while I was painting it so there wasn't any dust flying around.

As for heads, I'm using stock E7s with a little port work done to them.

this is one sweet build

Thanks bro. I'll be a lot better off when I get some tags for it.

man i have to say, that is the biggest transformation ive seen in a while from a hundred dollar POS to and good lookin beast. much props bro

:hail:

Painted it right in the garage its sitting in front of. It was raining out right before and while I was painting it so there wasn't any dust flying around.

As for heads, I'm using stock E7s with a little port work done to them.

You didn't get any overspray on all the stuff in the garage? I've never used an air compressor paint gun before, but I heard that they get paint over pretty much everything in the room you are painting in. I was gonna paint in my dad's garage, but I can imagine he would be VERY angry if I got white paint on his wooden canoes... haha

Got to love some flat black. Looks good man.

That front end was a huge improvement over the original. What all was involved in that? That's the original core support right?

You didn't get any overspray on all the stuff in the garage? I've never used an air compressor paint gun before, but I heard that they get paint over pretty much everything in the room you are painting in. I was gonna paint in my dad's garage, but I can imagine he would be VERY angry if I got white paint on his wooden canoes... haha

Just be sure to set your gun right and cover up stuff that is critical not to get paint on. The floor in that garage sweats so that kinda helped in a weird way with the dust and overspray.

That front end was a huge improvement over the original. What all was involved in that? That's the original core support right?

Yes original core support. The grille, header panel and the headlights weren't a problem. It's the hood latch (if you are going to use one) and the bumper brackets that are the problem. The frame horns are different, so the factory bumper brackets won't work. I used hood pins, so I wasn't too worried about the hood latch.

Ok, sweet, for a $30 paint job... that looks really good!! I love it!! haha

your truck looks nice!!! sits nice, very nice rim and tire combo!!!

Are those mustang headers?

Shelby Tri-Y headers. From the 60s Shelby Mustangs I think.

Shelby Tri-Y headers. From the 60s Shelby Mustangs I think.

Word what he said. They fit like they're made for this engine swap, other than a little clearancing I did on the top of the passenger frame rail.

how did you get the head lights and grille to fit? looks good in satin black too, that what I wana do with my 94

looks sick man i cant wait til i get my 302 in.. how hard was it updating the front end?

so all you honestly need is the head lights corner lights and grill to switch over from the style to an 01 or newer look? whats all involved, cuz id love to do it with mine

For the front end you will need-
98-newer fenders
all the lights
hood
Grille
header panel (that's the piece that the grille shell clips into and hold the lights in)
Clips for the headlights
Lots of 8mm body bolts
Bumper/ valance
Redneck ingenuity and a welder

And if you want to do it factory style, I would suggest the newer core support. But, mine's a hot rod, not some show truck, so I wasn't too concerned with using factory brackets and hood latches. Also try to get as much factory stuff as possible i.e. fenders and hood. My hood is a factory Ford piece but the rest is aftermarket junk from Keystone/ Certifit (Sorta-fit). The Ford stuff fits alot better and the gaps will match up, which mine don't. Also you will have to fab up some sort of brackets to hold the bumper since the 98- newer front frame horns are different.

I think I might be going all out on this thing rat/hot rod style. I definitely think I'm gonna get some pinstriping done on it and I am still debating on doing a checkerboard firewall. I still neeed to finish the interior yet. So stay tuned for more pics..

do you have to do the hood?

Yes. I think the whole front end was around $250 from Sorta-fit.

what if i skip on the hood? and the fenders header panel and all fit?

For the front end you will need-
98-newer fenders
all the lights
hood
Grille
header panel (that's the piece that the grille shell clips into and hold the lights in)
Clips for the headlights
Lots of 8mm body bolts
Bumper/ valance
Redneck ingenuity and a welder

And if you want to do it factory style, I would suggest the newer core support. But, mine's a hot rod, not some show truck, so I wasn't too concerned with using factory brackets and hood latches. Also try to get as much factory stuff as possible i.e. fenders and hood. My hood is a factory Ford piece but the rest is aftermarket junk from Keystone/ Certifit (Sorta-fit). The Ford stuff fits alot better and the gaps will match up, which mine don't. Also you will have to fab up some sort of brackets to hold the bumper since the 98- newer front frame horns are different.

I think I might be going all out on this thing rat/hot rod style. I definitely think I'm gonna get some pinstriping done on it and I am still debating on doing a checkerboard firewall. I still neeed to finish the interior yet. So stay tuned for more pics..

i think im going to have to experiment with this. thanks alot for the info man.

what if i skip on the hood? and the fenders header panel and all fit?

No. I doubt it anyway. I don't think the body lines will match up. Personally, I think your truck looks good the way it is considering that the paint doesn't look bad and it's all one color. Mine was a hunk of crap and in primer when I got it.

Listen bro, I really want to check your truck out. In Abingdon, MD (which is about 45 mins from you), every Friday night there's a hot rod hangout at the Lowe's right off the MD Route 24 North exit. There's normally some neat stuff there and they tend to stay until 9-930. Come check it out sometime.

No. I doubt it anyway. I don't think the body lines will match up. Personally, I think your truck looks good the way it is considering that the paint doesn't look bad and it's all one color. Mine was a hunk of crap and in primer when I got it.

Listen bro, I really want to check your truck out. In Abingdon, MD (which is about 45 mins from you), every Friday night there's a hot rod hangout at the Lowe's right off the MD Route 24 North exit. There's normally some neat stuff there and they tend to stay until 9-930. Come check it out sometime.

mines shot, dings dents scratches losing clear coat, motor smokes like hell lol.
so i need to get 98 fenders and wat year header panel? to do the 01 headlights?

mines shot, dings dents scratches losing clear coat, motor smokes like hell lol.
so i need to get 98 fenders and wat year header panel? to do the 01 headlights?

if i read correctly i think he said the entire front clip....

dam man i didnt read the two pages, by just looking at the pics, this thing is SWEET, but you shouldve left the gen 3 front clip on it!

dam man i didnt read the two pages, by just looking at the pics, this thing is SWEET, but you shouldve left the gen 3 front clip on it!

I was going to, but the grille shell was all busted, there was a huge dent in the driver's fender, hood was FUBAR, bumper was bent, and sidemarkers were toast. So, it was worth it to just swap it all over. Plus, I have an '02 Harley Davidson Edition F150 and the original plan was to do a mini-me Harley truck with a set of 20s and everything. But, I kinda like this end result better.

Redline- whatever year you want to swap it to is what year stuff you need. You could even swap to an '09 front clip.

Sweet build bro I just got my donar engine and trans to start mine. Any chance you have the P/N for those try y headers? Possibly a link to the sight.

Thanks,

Jason

Patriot Tri-Y headers for a first generation Mustang

PN- PTE-H8426

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTE-H8426/#

you did a amazazing job bro you did very well for the start you had im so far out from my end project its not even funny hope it is half of what yours is congrats bro thanks for letting us comment :hail:

Thanks for the link, do you think they will work with gt40 P's as far as getting the spark plugs in and out with the header on?

[QUOTE=1mean02hd;2079452]Got some updates on this project.

I will be attending Pinks All Out at MIR in June with this thing. The B2 gas tank idea went right out the window. I was tired of laying in the slop at the junkyard and decided to just use a nice new clean 10 gallon fuel cell instead. I got a Holley Blue pump with a filter mounted on the frame rails ready to go.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740022_large.jpg

This is the motor. Not one from a Lincoln but one from a Mustang. I had bought a wrecked 88 Mustang GT ragtop for $300 and parted it out. I made my money back on the car, so basically, I have decent motor to start with for nothing. There might be $250 total in that engine, which included a new Professional Products 50 oz. balancer, a nice rubber oil pan gasket, a new Melling oil pump, the intake manifold, and the paint. Everything else I had laying around in the shed.



Stock bore 302 with forged pistons and new bearings
Trick Flow Stage I cam .499/.510 lift 221*/226* duration
New double roller timing set
ported E7TE heads with ARP head bolts
Ford Motorsport 1.72 ratio roller rockers
Summit Stage 2 dual plane intake manifold
Melling standard volume oil pump with new pickup
ARP oil pump driveshaft
Professional Products 50 oz. harmonic balancer
Demon 650 carb
Patriot Tri-Y headers
All backed by a fresh AOD (soon to be C4) with a stall converter

are those the stock forged pistons that came in the 88 longblock (flat tops without reliefs) or did you put in new forged pistons with valve reliefs? The reason I ask is I am using the same cam and was wondering if the 1.72 rockers will cause any valve to piston clearance issues. Id like to use 1.7 rockers as well but did not think I could do it with that much lift on the cam and stock pistons. Thanks, Jason

I've heard that the Tri-Ys don't work on the GT40P heads because of the plug placement and the exhaust port placement. I don"t really have any experience with these heads so I really wouldn't know. But as far as the bottom end- the factory forged pistons have valve reliefs in the them as long as your short block is an H.O. made after 1986. 85 and 86 use forged pistons with no valve reliefs. 87- 91 H.O. (maybe 92 too) used the forged pistons with valve reliefs in them. Afterwards Ford switched to a hypereutectic piston in the H.O. motors. So, yes, they are the original pistons to that engine. Also I have no clearance issues with the 1.72 rockers and the Trick Flow Stage I cam. I used the cam and rockers on my old motor in the Mustang without issues as weel.

Well I also have a little update/ note to others:

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740047_large.jpg

I painted another set of valve covers and the air cleaner to better match the truck. I think they look alot better without the filler neck sticking up, plus it it adds to the whole hot rod appeal.

Note to others doing a V8 swap in an extended cab:
Use a driveshaft from a truck originally equipped with a 4.0L or you will have this to deal with:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740046_large.jpg

This is the yoke that bolts on after the carrier bearing and houses the center U-joint. I am guessing that the driveshaft I had cut down came from a 4 cylinder or a 2.9L or 3.0L V6 equipped truck. The U-joint that was in this thing was tiny. Luckily I had the original driveshaft from my truck and had the parts to replace the broken one. It was then that I discovered that the center U-joint on the original driveshaft from my 4.0L equipped truck was bigger than the one that was in there. So, it was a good discovery/upgrade and it wasn't too terrible to fix. I had a vibration at speeds over 55 and I'm guessing that was caused by the failing small U-joint. No vibrations any more and now has a bigger U joint. So I am happy it broke in front of the house instead of while I was making a pass down the 1320.

Well I had to replace the radius arms and I had a hair, so I made another altitude adjustment and finally got the stance I wanted. Looks like a hot rod, now it sits like a hot rod.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740048_large.jpg

Looks real good man.

Another update:
I got some carpet in it. Purchased it from another RPS member. It was nasty but I pressure washed it and then dyed it. Turned out really nice, so I was really pleased. Cost me ALOT less than getting a brand new aftermarket rug and alot less hassle installing it.
Also got me a set of aluminum heads which will be making their onto the current engine in the Ranger. This sucker is gonna be fun. I acquired the heads in trade for getting another '94 V8 Ranger together and running for a guy. The other truck's setup is gonna be pretty similar to what mine is now except that it has an automatic in it. Not sure if he's gonna keep it that way but I'll be taking pics along the way. It will definitely be a fun build considering that he has some parts (i.e. headers, oil filter relocator, trans) that are different than mine. So it'll be cool to do a side by side parts comparison to see how they perform.
I'll post pics up as soon as it stops raining and the ball gets moving.
One last thing- I put the Ranger up on the alignment rack and did a front end alignment but did a lookover at ride height too. Bad idea. I got a lot of chassis/ driveline tuning to do yet. First, my pinion angle is way off. And second, the rear end is sitting on the frame snubbers. This would explain the reason why went I get into it, it feels like the rear end is coming off the ground. Because it is. So now I need to do some frame notching and get some shims to get the pinion angle right. Hopefully after this, the little truck will be less hairy to drive and should at least attempt to hook up.

Truck looks great man i love that flat black.

Some new random interior pics:

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740052_large.jpg
My new (to me anyway) black carpet. Thank you wvcountryguy54. The carpet was oringinally gray and had oil stains and nastiness on it, but a pressure washer and some soap got it out. And then some black dye made it look good. Notice the stock S10 shifter and the newer Mustang seats.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740051_large.jpg
Another pic of the whole interior. Yes I know there's dirt and other crap on the floor, but I was working in the truck and I live in a swamp and the melting feet of snow aren't helping matters.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4706/2481/24263740050_large.jpg
Hurst shifter finally. Camaro/S10 T5 base with a Jeep handle. Don't ask how I got that combination but it works. Just gotta go to pep Boys and get the boot for it. Also I'm gonna make a small console to cover the bare spot under the dash to hold some gauges and I haven't decided whether I want to do a factory center console or just build a custom one.

Cool bro, Like the old school hurst action! What dye did you use on the carpet and how did you apply it? I need to do the same thing to mine.

I got the rattle can dye from Advance Auto. I think I used 2 or 3 cans. In the end it was still way cheaper than buying a new rug.