Went to my shop yesterday and decided to start workin on the truck, heres some picture of the progress. We started at about 4pm and finished at about 10 pm.

Before i pulled it in
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap003.jpg

The Gutless 3.0
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap004.jpg
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap006.jpg


What do we have here?
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap005.jpg

Takin the front off
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap007.jpg
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap008.jpg
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap012.jpg
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap011.jpg
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap010.jpg

My friend doing a little touch up prepping for the new core support
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap009.jpg

Motors Ready To Come Out
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap013.jpg
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap014.jpg
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap016.jpg
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap017.jpg

Motors Out
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap020.jpg
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap019.jpg

This is where we left it, gonna clean the engine bay and paint it next weekend.
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap021.jpg

This is pretty much gonna be a weekend project since im going to school and working full time. Just need to start buying parts so i can put it back together when im done with the swap.

Looks like a good start. Keep up the work.

did a little cleaning up, figured i would clean what i could before i put it together

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap001.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap004-1.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap006-1.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap005-1.jpg

We got the motor mounted but realized there was a slight leaning issue with it, if you look close enough you can see the drivers side is lower then the passenger side. I think i saw some where you have to have a taller mount on the drivers side, but im not sure anyone have any ideas? Im leaning towards taking the poly mounts out and getting rid of them and buying the V8 kit available threw JEGS.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap009-1.jpg

Thats how far we got today til i had to go to work but basically we were just trying to see how much room there was gonna be for the transmission.

I had to put a few washers between the block and motor mounts on my drivers side. If its doesnt have to go up a lot on that side I would just use washers.

i used washers on mine, i also tossed that kit from jegs in the dumpster!!

yah i think i know what i have to do, i was reading about how people had to slot the holes for the mounts so they could get the motor level. I really dont feel like buying the kit eighter and the poly mounts are way better then the ones in the kit. So now i just need to get the motor in right and see if i can some how use the bbk shorties i have.

yah i think i know what i have to do, i was reading about how people had to slot the holes for the mounts so they could get the motor level. I really dont feel like buying the kit eighter and the poly mounts are way better then the ones in the kit. So now i just need to get the motor in right and see if i can some how use the bbk shorties i have.

Your truck is going to be nice.I slotted my holes in my frame,and it was no problem getting it level.Fox body convertable mounts work great,and are cheap.I hate to tell you,but I don't think your Mustang headers are going to work.I would sell them,and buy a set of Hooker Ranger headers,James Duff,or atleast TriY's or Hedman's.Don't cut your frame!!!!!!!!lol

what size cam you running? maybe its the angle but the one spring looks awfully close to coil bind. i also hope your using jackstands i cringe when i see that. keep the pics coming its looking good.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap009-1.jpg
==========================================
PLEASE tell me you have a jack stand under this that we can't see???????

Believe me, jacks are not that trustworthy and DEFINITELY not worth takin the chance!:rip:

o yah there is defiently a stand under there, its right behind the tire, my friend was gettin creeped out cause he could hear the jack creepin when i wwas lifting it up, dont worry.

heres a pic, you can kinda see the shadow of the stand here

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap008-1-1.jpg

That's good news... A person really only needs to see a vehicle fall once to become a little safer.

I'll be shiming my ds mount today, too. So much fun.

yah, i got the slots put in today and they worked like a charm, adjustable enough to make it level. so much easier then trying to drill a hole in the right spot.

So now the motor is in and i can start getting everything fitted around it. HOW DID/DO YOU GUYS GET THE MOTOR LEVEL? THERE ISNT REALLY ANYTHING TO GO OFF OF. MAYBE JUST BY THE TRANNY MOUNT?

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap006-2.jpg

You could see mine was off, by eye. (low on the ds)
The upper intake was off, I set an angle finder on the gasket surface. Compared it to the core support.
It was close enough for me, but my friends pointed out that I would be the first guy to tell someone "looks good, motor's crooked".

lol yah i just eyeballed it and my friend and i agreed that it looks almost perfectly level but i didnt know if it was a big deal or not

So i have been having this thought in the back of my head and wanted some opinions,

what do you guys think about frame support?

any ideas are helpfull w/ a little explination if needed thanks

So i have been having this thought in the back of my head and wanted some opinions,

what do you guys think about frame support?

any ideas are helpfull w/ a little explination if needed thanks

My opinion is boxing in the frame rails would add strength,and also maybe a boxed X at the back of the cab and under the bed.I'm a aircraft mechanic,and NOT a engineer,so some of the other guys may have better ideas.A 6 or even a 4 point cage would also add strength.
Rember all the bracing adds weight,and unless you have a 545"BB like JP3 or a 1000 HP diesel like Dalpilot,it's probably not necessary.

yah i wasnt thinkin anything would b nessecary, maybe some cross braces but its just a mild 302. i guess i will see how the truck handles when i get it done

nice man

not sure if anyone is interested but i have the headers forsale/trade, look in the classifieds if your interested.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap008-2.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/V8Swap010-1.jpg

so i got my tranny yoke in yesterday and now i need to look into new u joints. what have you guys used for the u joints? will stock ranger u joints work? i guess i need to do a little measuring and see what the size difference is in the new and old yokes.

?

Well my computer was having dificulties due to some people pushing buttons when they shouldnt, so heres a couple pics of how my truck is sitting as of now. I am actually printing off my harwood manuale as i type so i can begin the wiring process. I figure i could work on that for now until i get a little more cash flow going.

I will probably be pulling the bed off to get the tank out and fix a ouple things under there while its off. I have an explorer axle set aside at a local parts yard and plan on installing that as well.

Getting a custom fuel cell or "water tank" made from a local guy who does amazing work, and plan on installing that where the spare tire would be.

Just a couple pics for you i will try to get some more and get working on this thing.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/eric050.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/eric051.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/eric052.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/eric053.jpg

This thing is going to be fricking sweet!

Looks good so far, I need to start on mine...

This thing is going to be fricking sweet!

Thanks man, i hope so too. Im just in a shi t spot right now whit my job and school about to start again. I would like to work on it, i have most of the big parts but its just the nickle and dime stuff i need to get. And the fact i lost my liscens so o well, hopfully it will start to come together.

Take your time and do all the thing needed to make it right. Thats why its referred to as 8 pistons of pain.,But belive me when its done its all fun from there.I spent several months doing mine, but it turned out like a factory install and runs like a scared rabbit.If I can be of any help PM me Good luck

Take your time and do all the thing needed to make it right. Thats why its referred to as 8 pistons of pain.,But belive me when its done its all fun from there.I spent several months doing mine, but it turned out like a factory install and runs like a scared rabbit.If I can be of any help PM me Good luck

What year is yours? I'd like to check it out some time.

1998 xlt flairside. Had it sents it was new .You can check it out at my site thanks

coll thanks midnite, i defiently planned on taking my time on it, all i c areound where i live are a bunch of hondas that are hacked together cause stupid ass kids just want t od oa swap over night and think they have a fast car. So yah time wasnt really a bad thing, i knew it would be a while, hopfully i will be able to get out and work on it somtime soon.

hey man you still need headers i got those swap headers still

how much?

Got this put together last night, I wanted to make sure i didnt ruin it when i take it to the shop, since oil doesnt come off of paper. I think it is pretty nice for a manual it should defiently help alot and make things alot easier.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00828.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00829.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00830.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00831.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00832.jpg

well i know its been a long time since i ve done any work to my truck (trust me i think about it every day) but i am now getting a little more $ coming in so ive been compiling a list of parts.

Today i purchased so DJM Dream Beams from Status P.I.T.S. hope to get those here shortly.

So i was looking at getting drop springs and am having trouble figuring out if im gonna be ok on my camber. I searched a littlle but most threads i found were 98+ so i figured i would ask on here before making a new thread.

Im tossing up the idea of getting eighter the 2 or 3 inch drop springs and want to make sure if i get the 4* adjustable camber bushing i will be able to keep my tires from ripping off the rims?

I would like my truck to be low, probably no lower then 6 in the front but i will do 5 if it means better reliability. So throw your comments my way, just trying to get some input. Preferable people who have done this before. And remember i will be having the v8 on top of it all, but to mee it looks like it sits the same as it did with the v6 in there.

Heres a list of some parts i have been trying to put together, if you know where i can get these parts cheaper let me know i would appreciate it.

Jegs

Intake w/MAF BBK 140
Smog Pump Eliminator 52
EGR Eliminator (70mm) 40
Oil Relocator 50
Serp Belt 43
Spark Plugs 20

Ebay

Intake N/A
Smog Pump Eliminator 53
EGR Eliminator (70mm) 26
EGR Eliminator(plate) 6
Oil Relocator N/A
Pulleys 80

uprproducts.com

smog eliminator 60
pulleys 90
powersteering bracket 80
egr eliminator(70mm) 35
EGR Eliminator(plate) 10
Intake w/o MAF Off Brand 120

Also i am going to be needing all the front end parts for a 93 Splash except a front bumper, so if you know good places for that stuff let me know. Ive been glancing at LMC truck and im gonna look at RockAuto also.

Pretty bas ass, keep the pics comming. This makes me want to ditch my 2.3 and do a explorer swap... I'm still undesided about the whole thing. Where did you get the manual out of curosity?

Harwood Performance. The manual is based around the '93' Mustang wiring so some things will differ depending on what you are using. You can buy the hard copy or down load a version. It's a good general manual, some fluff but some good info also. His old Ranger ended up here in Wisconsin about three blocks from where I worked.
Dave
http://www.harwoodperformance.bizland.com/encrypted_download.htm

The manual is great, a huge help. Downloads in seconds. Take it with a grain of salt, I changed a few things myself. But the Ranger info, combined with some common sense, makes it easy.

SB, my opinion, don't bother with drop springs. Just cut yours. Mine have one coil cut, dropped it exactly 2". (4.0 springs, supercab, if there really is a spring difference). Try half a coil, and adjust to taste.
Mine might have dropped a sixteenth or so with the v8, if at all.

what he said, woulda been nice if it had everything to do the swap butl ike mentioned in the manuel there are alot pf variables so the cant garentee ur swap will b the same as yours. yah ive had this stuff for 2 yrs and never had a reason to do the swap so i just made myself do it.

yah, only problem is i already cut the coils, took 2 complete rungs out ( a little to much ) but i only drove it maybe 500 miles like that, so i was thinking of getting the sprungs so i know they r the same, idk, might try the springs i have now and see what its like, i guess i know the camber will b the same since beams dont effect camber really.

Beams affect camber a lot, for me....
But they shouldn't. ( I have DJM and Beltech, on two trucks)

I guess you should buy name brand drop coils. I bought cheap ones, and they were way off the the advertised drop. (too much)

yah i was looking at the canuck ones but i think i might just snag a stock pair from the parts yard

Got a nice little package in the mail today, got these from Status P.I.T.S.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/09121035.jpg

hopfully try to put these on soon, was thinking about doing a brake upgrade, i read that 95 or 96 spindles bolt on and have bigger breaks can anyone confirm this for me?

u can put cobra 13" brakes on a 95 96 spindle... or u can make an adapter and just a sport trac 12" rotor and a stock caliper (with the adapter)

Yes, 95-97 spindles and brakes will work as long as they are beams for a 89-97 truck.

The 95-97 brakes are about the same size I believe but the calipers are dual pistons instead of the normal single piston calipers.

As mentioned above you have to have the 95-97 spindles if you ever want to do the Cobra brake swap.

get some parts in the mail an also took some off the truck.

Got a new 3550 tranny yoke, $50w/shipping
Got a new Header Panel, (Great company, payed for it on the 16th and got it on the 18th, super fast shipping):5stars:$40w/shipping
And the new Core support is on its way.$60w/shipping

Pulled the driveshaft off the truck on saturday and also took the flywheel off.

1st Question

To me the flywheel doesnt look right, as you can see in the pictures there are "3 humps" on it, which makes me think there was a 3 puck once installed on the car. Not sure but the clutch i have now looks fairly new but has some weird wear makrs. Just looking to see what everyone thinks about the flywheel and clutch also what do you think i should do about the pressure plate?

It wont be a problem getting this stuff resurfaced, i can just take it to school and do it myself.

I believe it is a stock 50oz flywheel, (since it feels like it weighs about that much), but not to sure. You would think upgrading to a kingcobra clutch you would get a lightweight flywheel but who knows.

2nd Question

The yoke and driveshaft are gonna be one of my next tasks and im trying to find out what has been the best combos of u-joints that have been used. I would like to know if i have any options or if its a one way route.

Well just let me know

im gonna do some looking around to see what i can find out, might call a local driveline shop and see if the know (probably gonna have to take both parts to them)

Heres some picture to help you out

The black stripe on the drive shaft is from a rubber bungie i had holding it up, just fyi.
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00864.jpg

Company I got The Header Panel From
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00865.jpg

Got This From ShaftMasters
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00856.jpg

Flywheel, you can clearly see the "humps"
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00855.jpg

Pressure Plate, Surface rust, comments on cleaning this up?
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00854.jpg

Need the one on the left to replace the old one, hmmm How will i do this?
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00859.jpg

King Cobra Clutch
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00860.jpg

These are a little blurry, camera sucks on close ups.

Flywheel side, hard to tell but half of it looks a little glazed, the other half looks untouched.
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00862.jpg

Otherside of clutch
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00863.jpg

Let me know what you guys think.

Get the flywheel resurfaced and it will be fine. You can tell the balance of the flywheel by the weight of it. Its is 50oz imbalance not 50 oz altogether. If it was one 50 oz that sucker would be LIGHT(3lb 2oz light).lol

Take a picture of the weight part on the backside of it and we can tell you what balance it is.

I would replace the clutch/pressure plate. The disc looks pretty worn.

Also take the yoke and driveshaft to a Napa and somebody that should be able to get you setup with the right joint. Thats what I did with mine and they got me setup with the right one.

yah it has the weight on one part so i think its an offset 50oz, so probably just the stock flywheel,

What do you think about turning it down and possibly making it a little lighter?

I would probably only be able to tak .100 off but that might save me a couple ounces but idk.

That new yoke looks pretty big. Have you trial fit it in the trans yet? For a 3550 it should be the same as on a C-4 or T-5, takes the 1310 u-joint and is 28 spline. I'd hold off worrying about the joint until you get the driveshaft to the proper length. As for the flywheel, just take off the minimum to clean it up.
Dave

ahh fack, i went and got a couple parts today, u joints, and a relocator kit, rented a u joint clamp and ended up breakin the part that bolts to the rear end, then tried removing the rest off the driveshaft and it started poping and creaking so i quit. now i get to go pull parts off a truck at the parts yard, and i think im gonna go to a shop to get it done right. made me mad, i guess thats what happens with 16 yr old parts.

Well ive been getting a pile of parts together and nedd some info, im working on getting a parts list together so when i get it up be on the look out for parts for me.

I am looking into getting an EGR delete plate for my 5.0. I searched and didnt find anything on here about it.

There is no need for emissions here in Iowa so not to worry. I know i need to get a plate that matches the Throttle Body Size, (75mm).

Also i believe you need the Eliminator plug for the harness/computer otherwise it mess with the computer.

Im just looking for input on parts/places people have used and where you got it from, and also if there is anything else involved in doing this.

Let me know seems pretty straight forward, put the plate on and plug in the "fake" egr valve, and your good to go. Hopfully its that easy.

Heres a link to the plate i found on ebay, let me know what you think

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Thanks

well i finally got some time last week to work on my truck

got some 2 inch lowering springs from dross (thanks dross)

I ordered some headers from summit and also got a poly trans mount, got those put on, the headers fit perfectly ang the trans mount looks awesome. The trans mount has different spacing then the factory mount had on the 3.0 so i think im going to make a custom trans crosmember and since im doing that i will make it so it doesnt stick down so far, so basically its just gonna be a custom raised tranny member. Also the tranny mount was about 2 inches forward from the crossmember so it is going to have to get moved forward.

I measured the drive shaft length from the rearend face to the center of the yoke where the u joint goes, with the yoke pushed in all the way then subtracted 1.5 to 2 inches cause i figure it needs to be out a little for suspension travel. And the driveshaft doesnt look like its going to be long enough so i think im going to look into getting a mustang driveshaft, i think they are a little more heavy duty then the ranger ones so that will help some as well.

Got a little welding up front done for the restoration, the core support mounts were rusted out and the holes on the frame brackets were wore a little bigger then they needed, so we took some plate and welded it in and i will be cutting the hole once i get the new cab bushings.

Took the bed off the back (what a pain in the as$) ended up cutting/breaking all the bolts off to get the bed off. Some were rusted so bad they instantly snapped otheres wouldnt budge so i cut them. Once i got the bed off i realised there is ALOT of work that needs to be dont in the back. Everything in the back is terrible, nothing rusted through but really heave surface rust, the frame is still solid but all the cross members are getting replaced and im thinking about pulling the cab off as well.

Im not 100% on what all needs to be unhooked to pull the cab so if anyone has a thread or any info on this that would be great.

Adventually the whole frame is going to get cleaned up and get some kind of undercoating. And more then likly all the cross members will be replaced, excepth the motor mount cross member. I hate rust and it takes so much life off of a vehicle and im gonna try to keep this truck around for a while. Also want it to look good. Undercoating im going to look around not sure which stuff works better, my friends borhter has some he used on his car that looks like its some pretty decent stuff (not sure the brand).

Ive als ohad the fuel cell idea in the back of my head, trying to find a 15 or 16 gal cell, then have and inline external pump and filter, probably end up running new fuel line, but i might just modify the existing stock fuel line. I just think the factory line is some what of a restriction for a v8 but idk.

I have some pictures, my camera died and i forgot it yesterday but i will try to get those up soon.

Let me know what you guys think about taking the cab off, and the undercoating, and the fuel line.

Get a driveshaft from a 4.0L equipped truck. The u- joints are bigger. Are you doing an EFI swap or carbed?

FWIW, I used the trans mount from my 4.0 trans. Bolted right up to the T-5.

A 16 gallon cell will fit between the frame rails at the spare tire perfect. I did it to mine and it turned out great.

As for moving the cab around, those bolts were worse than the bed bolts on mine, but when they were all out, I could push the cab around on the frame easy.

Looking to be a great build, can't wait to see it finished!

- On another note, after seeing that quick wiring diagram pic of the Harwood you posted I just finished buying/downloading my copy, looks like it'll be a huge help!

- On another note, after seeing that quick wiring diagram pic of the Harwood you posted I just finished buying/downloading my copy, looks like it'll be a huge help!

Agreed! Just remember not to take it as gospel, I veered from it a little.

A 16 gallon cell will fit between the frame rails at the spare tire perfect. I did it to mine and it turned out great.

Yah i was actually looking at your thread earlier today, great sruff that is basically how i want to do my cell

Get a driveshaft from a 4.0L equipped truck. The u- joints are bigger. Are you doing an EFI swap or carbed?

What about and explorer shaft? i think they are 1 piece, there are more explorers then 4.0l truucks in the parts yard where im at. And yes im doin an 89 efi 5.0 HO swap.

As for moving the cab around, those bolts were worse than the bed bolts on mine, but when they were all out, I could push the cab around on the frame easy.

Yah i dont think they will be very hard, i pulled the 2 rear bolts out and they came out (with a little help from a 3/4 inch IR Air Impact) and the front ones are gone (rusted out) so the only thing holding the cab on are the 2 middle mounts.

well i forgot that i also tried to resurface my flywheel, i dont think it came out right so im just gonna scrap it and get a new one. It has some hard spots in it where it got hat so i think its junk anyways. OEM replacment is $75 or there is an F1 Brand Lightweight Aluminum flywheel on ebay for $200 i kinda looked at. Anyone know anything about that brand? Also looked up a clutch kit at Advanced, i can get the "Street Upgrade" ZOOM clutch kit for $180 comes w/ everything except flywheel, or i could opt for a dual friction clutch kit for $260, dont remeber the brand. I figure the dual friction is adveously better but havent herd anything about them. So i need some input on the clutches.

As for the Master/slave setup, i plan on running a 4.0l 4x4 Master off an explorer with hard lines ran to the slave. Eighter going to do a slave kit for the t-5 or possible do the hydro throwout kit, they are about the same price.

Heres some picture i got my computer fixed so now i can uplaod some pictures for you ADD mofos.

1st two pics are from my phone so if the suck, sorry
Heres the flywheel attempt
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/10191046.jpg

Heres what the back end looked like when i pulled the box GAY!!!!!!! I HATE YOU IOWA AND YOUR RUST!!!!!!
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/10251539.jpg

Heres my new grille, love the factory look of my truck, i wanted to do a conversion then i was looking at wheats pictures and i think the stock front end is pretty clean

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00866.jpg

Heres the new radiator core support

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00867.jpg

Energy suspension trans mount

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00871.jpg

Patriot brand shelby tri-y headers, fit great

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00874.jpg

Headers installed on motor, looks like it just want to run

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00877.jpg

Passenger side clearance by the starter, has about 3/8" clearance need to make sure the starter will fit.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00878.jpg

Drivers side clearance, plenty of room.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00879.jpg

Got the motor/tranny installed temporarly to make sure the headers will clear

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00880.jpg

Passenger side frame rail, good cleance

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00883.jpg

Drivers side, might have to take the rubber cover off so it doesnt melt

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00885.jpg

And we got a little bored so we messed around with the buffer
Before

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00881.jpg

After

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00882.jpg

My friend from Northern California (Chico) who thinks Big green Tractors are insane, almost like hes never seen one before.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00875.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00876.jpg

This is where the batteries ran out on my camers, DOOOHHH, well next time i go out there ill make sure i have new batteries and i have a couple more pictures to take as it sits now.

Well i think i might go back out in a couple days but its sapposed to rain so we will see.

This is from foxracings thread but my shifter ended up in the same position, i will get a pic when i go out to the shop.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/Shifter.jpg

bump for updates

Also, i was looking at a thread on here and saw this

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/Crossmember.jpg

Im thinking about doing somthing like this for my trans crossme,ber, having the mounting plate towards the front of the truck, maybe have 2 tubes going across so there is no possibility of twisting anything.

My sport bucket seats come with a center console/armrest, attached to driver's seat and slides with the driver, no floor console. Do you think it would interfere with the shifter?

My sport bucket seats come with a center console/armrest, attached to driver's seat and slides with the driver, no floor console. Do you think it would interfere with the shifter?

the shifter is back to where theround on the seat ends on the side of the seat, ill try to find a pic to show you,

and as far as the height, the top of the shifter w/o knob is about at the top of the seat, so basically its about a 3 inches towards you at your knee,

1st gear will is a little close to the side of the seat but if you put it on the pass side of the mounting post it will be better.

My nightmare is finding out that the rigid console blocks the tranny from shifting to 2nd, 4th and Reverse.

well i just put a small list of parts that i know i need right now together and apparently i was of fa little on how much more i was gonna need.

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I like your buddys t shirt! lol

I didn't read all the console comments too carefully, but I have a full length Ex console in mine with a T-5. I'm using the stock Mustang shifter, but I straightened the handle.

Well im still workin on getting more parts, will be for a long time, but went to the parts store and picked some stuff up, heres some pics to keep yall happy.

Pile of parts:
2 40 series Flowmasters
Set of lug nuts w/ locks
2 MOOG Camber/Caster Bushings +- 4 degrees
9007 Silverstar Ultra's Headlights
K&N Oil Filter
Flywheel Bolts With new bellhousing bolts.
Mustang & Ranger Hayes manuals w/the mustang mag
Can of undercoating (gonna try it out)
Oem Spec Flywheel
Trans Dapt Oil Filter Relocator, (might look into get the L&L, im not sure if this is gonna work since the lines come straight out instead of sideways.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00898.jpg

Flowmasters 40 series, got 2 of them
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00897.jpg

2" belltech drop springs purchased from dross, Thanks bud.
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00891.jpg

Cool man, just like Christmas isn't it? I think thats the same oil filter kit I bought but I had to use a different block adapter. Make sure it's the one where the oil lines come out at 90* or it probably won't work.

Flowmasters are cool. I ran them on my last truck. Kinda loud for me. I've since switched to Magnaflows and won't look back.

You can buy the adapter for the block you need separate from Summit for like $20. I had to pick one up for mine also.

Beware of the crappy block adapters.... Had 2, ended up buying a billet one because they leaked. billet one works great

well i think i will just buy this adapter http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-1413/ , and use the parts i have from the kit.

also heres some more progress, been messing around with this thing a little trying to figure out how i want to finish it.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00887.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00888.jpg

cleaned up the blower motor
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00886.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00889.jpg

I currently am aiming for a 5/6 or 5/7 drop depending on how it looks when i drop it. I have the dream beams and also have beltech 2" drop coils for up front. And the rear will get dropped 4" with the 8.8 swap and the hangers are flipped for an extra 2".

So what im looking for is what parts would you recomend. Edit: I realize that coilovers are probably the best but im gonna keep it a little more affordable untill im out of school, or untill i can find a great deal. lol..

Which shock would you recomend? Also what kind of mounting is preferred?

Im thinking i could do the explorer crossmember or actually i might make a custom one since im gonna be making new cross members anyways.

Sway Bar Upgrades? Should i get the bell tech sway bars or are the B2's about the same?

Im gonna be replacing all the bushings with poly bushings to help with handleing and also deterioration.

Anything els i didnt ask about let me know, im here for one reason and thats for Information, and i think thats what everyone slse is here for aswell.

Thanks

Eric

http://desmoines.craigslist.org/pts/1475601431.html

got a couple parts fit a couple things up to check fitment. not to much action latley.

Did this a while ago just never got a pic till now. Im gonna go to the junkyard and get a new plate so the hole isnt so huge.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00949.jpg

Just wanted to make sure i wasnt making the notch to small.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00951.jpg

The A/C Eliminator is Forsale $50 let me know if your interested.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00953.jpg

Heres it's replacement, should workj out better and give me more clearance for the powersteering lines.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00902.jpg

Couple side shots

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00954.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00955.jpg

Going a new route with the oil filter relocator

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00901.jpg

Next item on the list to purchase is a clutch kit. Probably gonna go with a king cobra kit. I need to get this s oi can move onto other stuff and wont have to take the motor/tranny out any more.

http://desmoines.craigslist.org/pts/1475601431.html

thanks for the post ill give the guy a call and see what hes got.

Progress looks good! Be sure to post pics of the finished heater box.

heres an update for you guys, i thought you would enjoy this. lol

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/12191030.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/12191030a.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/12191032.jpg

That's why Im glad to live in Florida lol

even tho I ride snowmobiles I still hate snow!!!! do they salt the crap out of the roads in Iowa? oh nice build by the way.

even tho I ride snowmobiles I still hate snow!!!! do they salt the crap out of the roads in Iowa? oh nice build by the way.

lol yah the roads a pretty much paved with salt and sand in the winter, thats y im doing a frame restor and wont drive it in the winter when im done, plus i doubt it will b a good winter vehicle when its done

Well, see that green stuff showing where the snow has melted? We don't even have that up here. There are no signs of solid ground. Even the roads are ice packed, only the state highways show any signs of pavement and most stay iced all winter. Sucks!

Good move with the power steering brackets. I used them too and they moved the pump up several inches. It's a much better set up.

yah, we had about 3 times as much snow a couple weeks ago, we got a lovley rain which melted alot of snow then turned into ice. yah the p/s bracket is nice it kinda suck tho because i just found an entire bracket pulley and belt kit last week for like $130 i might have to look into it some more.

Pulley and bracket kits work really well. Plenty of clearance. And just to note, we got 2 feet of that white death stuff here. I hate it. Sucks even more when removing it for 16 hours.

I'm loving the clearance with the tri -y's Are they made for a 5 litre Ranger? or for a Mustang chassis? Where can I get a set of these?

I'm loving the clearance with the tri -y's Are they made for a 5 litre Ranger? or for a Mustang chassis? Where can I get a set of these?

Ebay/Summit/Jegs are good places. They are in the $150 neighbourhood. They are designed for '65 to '70 Mustangs. So you can use those years in a search.

got mine from summit for 165 to my door, like ted said, 60's shelby headers, i think all the 302 exhaust is the same, i wanted some full length headers instead of the swap headers, and these are cheaper then the swap headers also.

Thanks Guys! I like the idea that their kinda a long tube in design and that should help out on making a little more torque than the shortys would. The fact that they clear almost everything..well that's an added bonus!

Header wrap? what do you think?

I think for a DD, most would not go with them. You may not have to worry about them retaining mositure when not running and promoting rust where you live. Work great for someone at the strip who has to go in and change plugs or someother engine work during runs.
Dave

Header wrap? what do you think?

i was thinking about getting some, just for the fact to keep anything from getting too hot, (plug wires etc.) i gues i beter figure that out before i start putting together. I think it would help but dont know if it is neccesary.

I put it on my bike in place of heat shields and it's VERY effective, the pipes do not even get CLOSE to being too warm or making me uncomfortable. I'm thinking if it takes the heat out of the engine bay down the length of the tri-y's, then that will really help the temps under hood. But probably make my feet real hot!! ha ha. time to order hush mat.

Well, I have about 10000KM on my swap (6K miles...) It's pretty damn cool, I wouldn't worry too much about it. It runs cool, the plugs wires are cool, it looks cool, lol....

no wrap ted or yes?

Since I use the word "cool" a lot, maybe I should clarify...
Nothing gets hot, nothing has melted, I sure didn't bother wrapping anything.

The only time I noticed the underhood heat, was when had the very short air intake. (It's a speed density system, so it was just a cone off the throttle body) I could feel the truck loose power as it warmed up, as it was breathing air right off the header. That was a simple fix.

If you get good plug wires that fit well and stay clear of the header tubes (like stockers), you should not have an isssue.
My bro has spark plug wraps, and all kinds of heat probs in his rx7, so I can see why you're concerned.

My engine temps are very cold, I've been slowly working to warm it up. Next swap will be a 192deg thermostat. (began with 160, then a 180) I was just worried about it overheating at first.

the hotter the temp thermostat, the longer the antifreeze will stay in the radiator allowing it to cool so when the thermostat opens it has more of a capability to keep the engine cooler. you wouldnt think so but its true.

well i guess i will just have to get o good set of wire holder and make sure they are clear of everything, and if i have an issue then i will wrap them

Subscribed! Looks great man! I can't wait to start on mine and drop some more (hopefully this coming spring)!!!

Subscribed! Looks great man! I can't wait to start on mine and drop some more (hopefully this coming spring)!!!

thanks man, i got some school moneyu comin here in a couple weeks so i think i will finally get t owork on this thing, and the fact that its 0 degreews out but a heated shop is very nice, theres just no room.

Since im doing a frame up restore, i am going to be replacing the fuel lines, and since im doing that i figure i might as well figure out what kind of system im going to need.

First off:

What kind of fuel system do t he 89 5.0 H.o.'s run? return style im assuming.

What are other options for a fueling system? returnless?

What size fuel lines would be rcommended? I figure factory ranger fuel lines are probably a restriction to a V8, so upgrading while replaceing seems like the only smart thing to do.

Fuel cell, i like the way V8RANGER has his fuel cell set up, but im thinking since i live in iowa it might be better if i have my everything in the bed, protected from the elements. I dont plan on driving in the winter, but if its my only resort then yah.

Fuel Pump, im thinking either a Holly Red or Blue should be sificient enough, or possibly a smaller aeromotive pump, not sure what kind of feed rate i should be looking for?

Pressure regulator, probably an aftermarket one will work, ive been looking at fuel rails that have regulators on them and they seem like they would be able to do the job.

Injectors, i plan on running the same ones that were on the motor when it ran, that way i wont have to mess with the ECU or a tune right away, and later upgrade if needed.

My plans as for now are to run N/A, but maybe i nthe future i would like to put a blower on it, so i would like to put all that into consideration when picking fuel lines, pump and type of system I install.

Dont really feel like dishing out $1500 for the aeromotive kit, and i think braided line is overkill for my aplication, and the funds are cooperating with that. So thats why im going with hard lines.

Well let me know what you guys think, sorry for the long thread just trying to make my intentions clear so there arent any questions.

I tried looking to see what the mustang guys use to upgrade but no luck yet.

And if there is a sticky or somthing about this throw me over there so i can read up on it.

Thanks for your time and looking at this

Eric

Since im doing a frame up restore, i am going to be replacing the fuel lines, and since im doing that i figure i might as well figure out what kind of system im going to need.

First off:

What kind of fuel system do t he 89 5.0 H.o.'s run? return style im assuming.

What are other options for a fueling system? returnless?

What size fuel lines would be rcommended? I figure factory ranger fuel lines are probably a restriction to a V8, so upgrading while replaceing seems like the only smart thing to do.

Fuel cell, i like the way V8RANGER has his fuel cell set up, but im thinking since i live in iowa it might be better if i have my everything in the bed, protected from the elements. I dont plan on driving in the winter, but if its my only resort then yah.

Fuel Pump, im thinking either a Holly Red or Blue should be sificient enough, or possibly a smaller aeromotive pump, not sure what kind of feed rate i should be looking for?

Pressure regulator, probably an aftermarket one will work, ive been looking at fuel rails that have regulators on them and they seem like they would be able to do the job.

Injectors, i plan on running the same ones that were on the motor when it ran, that way i wont have to mess with the ECU or a tune right away, and later upgrade if needed.

My plans as for now are to run N/A, but maybe i nthe future i would like to put a blower on it, so i would like to put all that into consideration when picking fuel lines, pump and type of system I install.

Dont really feel like dishing out $1500 for the aeromotive kit, and i think braided line is overkill for my aplication, and the funds are cooperating with that. So thats why im going with hard lines.

Well let me know what you guys think, sorry for the long thread just trying to make my intentions clear so there arent any questions.

I tried looking to see what the mustang guys use to upgrade but no luck yet.

And if there is a sticky or somthing about this throw me over there so i can read up on it.

Thanks for your time and looking at this

Eric
5.0 Mustangs use a return fuel system.
Your best bet is to stick with the stock fuel tank if you are using fuel injection,and just get a stock 5.0 fuel pump.You can't use a Holley Blue or red pump with F.I..Those pumps are for carbed applications which use far less fuel pressure than F.I.
If you are using F.I,I would get a A9L mass air mustang ECM and a 89-93 Mustang wiring harness,and wire it to your truck.That would be the least expensive route.
Now if your are using a carb,Then a fuel cell,Holley blue pump,and regulator set a 7psi is the way to go.I hope this helps you out.

5.0 Mustangs use a return fuel system.
Your best bet is to stick with the stock fuel tank if you are using fuel injection,and just get a stock 5.0 fuel pump.You can't use a Holley Blue or red pump with F.I..Those pumps are for carbed applications which use far less fuel pressure than F.I.
If you are using F.I,I would get a A9L mass air mustang ECM and a 89-93 Mustang wiring harness,and wire it to your truck.That would be the least expensive route.
Now if your are using a carb,Then a fuel cell,Holley blue pump,and regulator set a 7psi is the way to go.I hope this helps you out.

well i think i have a better idea of what im going to be useing.

I want to center the weight and relocate as much as i can to the rear of the truck. So im going to be using a cell, have it mounted where the spare tire would be. Have braided line go from the cell to the pump. Once i find a pump i like, probably a 255 lph inline pump at 45 psi, (there are a couple on summit i like) mount that to the inside of the frame rail, run an inline filter (not sure the best location for that is yet.) Then run 3/8 hardline down the frame rail to the engine compartment, where it will then hook up to braided line again, which will go to the regulator, (probably mounted on the fuel rail). Then, i believe i need to run another line off the other fuel rail which will then "return" the fuel back to the cell, having the braided, hard bradied line configuration.

The cell will need a pickup and a return fitting on it. also im trying ot figure a way to retain the factory fill tube location on the drivers side, so it looks like the factory tank is still in it, but really its just a custom hose running to the cell in the back.

I have a realativly good idea how im going to run it now just need to find the right parts to do it.

A inline pump will work.I didn't think about that.I'm using a carb,and I would also like to use a fuel cell in the exact same location as you are talking about.Jaz (I think)makes a 45 degree adapter that would bring your fill location towards the rear side of your bed.
I have thought of cutting my fill door/neck assemblie, and rewelding it at the rear of the bed so I could fill my truck almost like stock.
Another option is have a fill coming up flush with the bed floor,or a small door in the bed floor to fill your cell.
I still have my stock tank,and I would like to have a aluminum cell made to fit inbetween my frame rails and filled from the side of my bed,but the funds are not available.
I can't wait to see how yours turns out.
BTW,255 lph is a huge pump for a N/A engine.190 should be fine unless you are using forced induction.
Also,the 1986-198? had a high pressure fuel pump mounted on the frame rail.The lift pump was in the tank.I have no idea of the volume,but it could work in a pinch.Just throwing around ideas.BBK makes a inline FI pump too.
I have though about a Bronco 2 tank,but I think they hang too low.

I found a few part # that will help you out.Summit inline FI pump,upto 500HP,43 gal per Hr@40psi.Summit #
SUM-G3138 And a inline regulator adjust from 30-100psi.made by Mallory part #MAA-4305M
BTW,Most all summit brand parts are name brand parts that summit buys in bulk at low prices,and packages in there own packages,so the Summit brand fuel pump is probably a Mallory too.

yah i was looking at the summit magazine and they have a cell to filter ,line kit, comes with braided linefittings, its only like $30, so im thinking that will be somthing i should get.

Im in the process of figuring out how to run the hose from the cell to the factory fuel door, since i have fiberglass bed i cant just cut and weld.

All the 16 gal, tanks summit has are eighter steel or plastic, and if im going to be able to do the factory fill door location then i would rather use an aluminum on so i can work on it, and also it wont rust. I need to get the measurments from frame rail to frame rail, so i know what size cell i can use.

The 255lph pump would be overkill, i know this but there is the possibility for a boosted application in the future, but the more i think about it, if im goingto go that route then i should wait on the pump that way i can get one that is perfect for my application, so getting a smaller pump would work, thanks for the advice there.

Im almost certain i could have a cell made for cheaper then $200 and it would be exactlly how it needs to be to fit in my truck, and if i cant get the fill hose to work out like i want then i will just go the access door like you said, i plan on having access doors for the tank and battery anyways so it will work out whichever way i go.

Now what is a decent -AN size to go with? im probably going to be using 3/8 hardline on the rails so 6 or 8 -AN? Im not to sure about the sizes so enlighten me a little. I see that summit has a fuel line kit for a 5.0 and they use 6AN line so that must be the facory size.

6AN is equliviant to 3/8.8AN is more like 7/16 or 1/2.
I used 8AN on a Mustang I had years ago,and it was just a waste of money on the bigger fittings and hose.So to answer your question,I think 6An will be fine even if you decide to go forced induction in the future,unless it's like 1000HP.:eek:
What are you going to do about wiring harness,ECM?Summit makes a 5.0 wiring harness too.

cool 6 -AN it is then, and i might be picking up some braided hose, my friendjust bought a race car and it has braided brake lines on it. They use hard lines since braided expands, but for my truck braided will work fine. So hopfully i can get enough to do my whole truck, and it will be free so even better.

My wiring harness, i have the harness out of the mustang, as well as the Computer, so that is just going to need some clean up and then i need to figure out what goes where and what can get thrown away(if anything). Ive thought about buying a 5.0 harness but that would be a lost resort if i mess mine up too much, i would like to get on since it would be alot cleaner, but idk if its worth the $.

FYI, AN sizes...
Each number = 1/16".
So -3AN is 3/16" OD, -6 is 3/8" OD, -8 is 1/2OD, etc.

Frank was on the money, left a little question in his first line...
AN fittings a very similar to a 37deg JIC fitting. Supposed to be more accurate due to their military origins.

I ran -8 AN lines with a Holley blue pump on my truck. Overkill for a basically stock motor, yes, but I got a spray plate on it too. With the #8 line, I don't need to run a separate fuel system for the nitrous system. If you are going to stay NA then #6 line will be plenty big enough for your truck. Should support almost 500hp NA with #6 line.

Braided lines actually DON'T expand so much, they are used as a replacement for rubber lines which REALLY expand, plus they (braided) are sexy, that's why I put them on the harley (don't expand much at all, not sexy) because I'm a blind, old, bald, fat guy who can't react so fast, so I need the help with braking.

yah well idc i will take the free braided over having to buy anything so, eigther way im gonna use it, anmd yes i think it is sexy as well, and al lthe fittings are on the line so, shwing, HARD ON!!!!!!!! i love free shi t!

They,russell and aeroquip make a snap lock line that uses barbed an fitting that is far less expensive than the braided stainless stuff AND is NHRA approved. i used this combination on my 89 notch mustang with a 190 tank pump and a T rex booster on a blown 306. No problems. If you wanted to remove the fittings it required a sharp knife to cut the line away from the barbs. Comes in either black or a cool ford blue!!!

note to self: make sure all cab mount bolts are removed befor trying to remove cab from frame lol, pictures to come later tonight when i get home.

well decided to get my hands dirty so i went out and did a little work, enogh talking heres some pics. Quick question, theres a guy with a 97 exploder 8.8, he was gonna use it for a project and ended up going with a 9 inch. He took the brakes of of the 8.8 and put them on the 9. hes askin $150 for it. Im not sure what exactlly he means by taking the brakes off but if i had to replace everything from the backing plate do you think $150 is a resonable price or should i offer him $100. he bought it for $200. Let me know

Now on with the pictures

Pulled it in like this

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/12191030.jpg

Took bed off

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00968.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00969.jpg

Pulled it out

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00975.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00972.jpg

And off goes the cab. (first attempt)

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00977.jpg

Forgot about 1 cab mount bolt (how did that happen) Rolled it back in, removed the bolt and pushed it back out.

Second attempt

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00976.jpg

And Wallah!! Strange looking vehicle you got there.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/01131821.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/01131821a.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/01131822.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/01131821c.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/01131821b.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/01131822a.jpg

sorry for the blurry pics, batteries in my camera died (go figure) so i was using my phone for 90% of these pics.

so what would be better to use when making cross mambers, round or square tubings, i plan on having plates on the end to have somthing to bolt to the frame with but i didnt know if there were any benefits to eigther shapes.

so what would be better to use when making cross mambers, round or square tubings, i plan on having plates on the end to have somthing to bolt to the frame with but i didnt know if there were any benefits to eigther shapes.

I don't think it would matter.
But make two of everything, and send the seconds my way...

I want that transmission!

Definately one of those, "whatever's cheapest today" things. Unless you've got to mount tabs to it for 4 link...

so ive been thinkong about new shocks in the rear, and got the ideaof using coilovers instead of shocks, so then if i ever go 4link i will have the coilovers already. defiently would go with adjustables, but i still need to check for clearances and lengths. what do you guys think about this idea? this would be using an exploder 8.8 with the shock plates below the axle and the top mounts would be on a custom crossmember.

I don't think I have ever seen coil-overs and leafs in the back of the truck, but they do make coils that go over shocks in trucks to help carry heavy pay loads. So I geuss that would be essentially what your doing making the rear suspension very stiff and bouncy. Just buy a 4-link kit from summit for like $400 and do it all at once while you have it apart. Project looks great man by the way, so much easier to do stuff with the cab and bed off and its only a few more bolts when you're this far into a project.

yah im debating the 4 link, im not 100% on all the geometry of it but i think i might throw it on there.

Im going to work on the truck today and will probably get it almost 100% torn apart. I want to try and keep it rolling until i get an appointment to get the frame cleaned and coated.

I should have some more pictures up since its been a while, workin on this has been slow since its cold as fock.

did a little work to the truck yesterday, heres some pictures for yah.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01000.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01005.jpg

This si how i move heavy shi t
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01009.jpg

Old tank
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01006.jpg

put the powersteering bracket on
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01001.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01002.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01003.jpg

Heres how it sits, now i just need ot make some calls and see whn and where i can get this thing cleaned up.
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01007.jpg

Looking good! Don't forget the green paint to highlight some parts.

Looking good! Don't forget the green paint to highlight some parts.

Wah-wah, that's funny!

yah let me get right on that, we were all young and dumb once. i found an 8.8 about 10 minutes from my moms place in davenport for $125, its out of a 97 120xxx everything os complete so im told, so hopfully i can catch a break with this cold and make my way up there and pull that thing. i think its a decent price. also got my financial aid check today so you know what that means. lots of parts/progress soon to come (hopfully).

just had an idea for a shift boot, since i work at a bar we go thru crown all the time and the bags just get thrown away, i think i might try to take a bag or two and make it into a shift boot. idk sounded loke a cool idea, what do you guys think?

I'd stick with the green paint.

you can, i learned my lesson

I was bored today, and was looking at my 4.0 Radiator and i think it might have no hope. So......... I got an idea and i think i can make it work, ill let you guys look and see what yall think

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/02021601.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/02021605.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/02021606.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/02021606a.jpg

Also, I picked up some other headlight/corner lights so I think im gonna try to sell these.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/02021607.jpg

Cluster Fuc k any one?

Well i figure i might as well start looking at the wiring since im not ale to work on my truck right now sooo...

Need to gedt a couple EVTM books and dig in.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01014.jpg

Ranger Harness on left Mustang on right

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01015.jpg

Am i missing anything?

Also took a couple pics a week ago, (i was bored)

This is my scrap pile, lol j/k

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01011.jpg

middle cab mount, i think im going to look into new brackets.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01012-1.jpg

leaf spring brackets, front, both look like this eewwww

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01013.jpg

finally i was looking at replacing this piec of junk, need to make more room for the cell. Any one replace this with anything? i think ive seen a couple with different crossmember on ther, just trying to see what i should use.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01010-1.jpg

O yah i also picked up an Explorer 8.8 3.73 L/S for $150, not bad im gonna need to get sping plates and u-bolts. Im gonna try to make the e-brake cabel hook up to the ranger one, ill get some pics of that when the time comes.

Talked to a powder coating company and they said $300 will probably be the cost to do my frame, my friend just had is late model chassis done and it looks killer so im defiently gonna take it to the same place. thats about all for now, we keep getting snow and its pissin me off, updates will come when i get time.

if i bought this

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-65120/

what other wiring would i have to do? the same as if i was just putting the factory harness in?

i doubt i will buy that $1000 harness but im just wondering if it would be easier.

I think when i do my wiring im going to run all new wire, loom etc. i dont like the idea of having a ton of splices and i would like to try and make the harness look as neat and clean as possible.

Maybe something like this

http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/part_number=60510/302.0

or like this

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=9631

I would like to make my own look like the last one.

Anyone have any other ideas let me know, i hate a cluster fuc ked harness and defiantly am looking for anything that will help.

how about this
http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=4

i would/did use a factor mustang harness it is a lot cheaper. but not as simple

i like that one, clean, cheaper then the others, thanks for the post.

Did you ever buy the Harwood? I forget.

yah i got it, bought it last summer, before i even started the swap. Im prolly gonna attempt to do the wiring with what i ahve and then when i can get some extra $ i might buy on of the above harnesses so its cleaner.

I need to look at the harwood again for a refresher and then start cleaning my harness. I just hate the fact of 21 year old wires and the same in grease.

I think my underhood wiring consists of about 5 wires (minus the spark plug wires) Lol

yah i got it, bought it last summer, before i even started the swap. Im prolly gonna attempt to do the wiring with what i ahve and then when i can get some extra $ i might buy on of the above harnesses so its cleaner.

I need to look at the harwood again for a refresher and then start cleaning my harness. I just hate the fact of 21 year old wires and the same in grease.


I'd sure go with a new harness what ever you pick. Tracking down a bad connection somewhere on the harness can drive you nuts. How many times have them wires been yanked on? The wiring stuff in the Harwood manual is basically what came out of the Ford swap manual. I think someone here in the house has that scanned in. The Harwood is good for all the other info related to the swap. Hey Spring is coming! Out in a tee shirt today.
Dave

Look into getting an underhood chassis harness from an older truck (89-92). It will save lots of headaches from trying to separate the 93 harness into the chassis and unused engine parts. The Power Distribution Box is on the opposite side but everything else is basically the same. I think 2 wires need to be repinned and a few need lengthened for it all to work.

how about this
http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=4

i would/did use a factor mustang harness it is a lot cheaper. but not as simple

That's what I have. It would be super cheap to use a mustang harness, but they're getting pretty old now. Even if you don't have a loose connection, there could be high resistance building up in a wire you don't even know about. It could cause a higher or lower value to the ECU and rob some horsepower and you would never know.

That's what I have. It would be super cheap to use a mustang harness, but they're getting pretty old now. Even if you don't have a loose connection, there could be high resistance building up in a wire you don't even know about. It could cause a higher or lower value to the ECU and rob some horsepower and you would never know.

Good point.

Once you've spent the time digging through the wiring like this once, I think actually MAKING a new harness would be fairly doable, as I believe places sell all the connectors. (www.fordfuelinjection.com) But that is likely expensive, which brings us back to Painless, et al.

yah, i completely understand. I decided to dig into the harness i have now and o man.

found out that tape from the 80's really sucks and the adhesive on it is retarded. Also looks like my harness was converted to mass air, the MAF was soldiered in, or at least they tried to soldier it, and the injectors are all rewired by the salt n pepper connectors.

heres a pic of it now after i took all the tape and shielding of of it.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC01026.jpg

kinda looks like the painless, lol. Im prolly gonna get some cleaner and try getting the rest of the residue off of it and right now i think my best option is going to be to make my own. One piece, no un needed splices and everything will be shrink wrapped and protected.

I just need to figure out what i wont need as far as everything goes, and since im doing that i will just make the harness for my swap, so instead of making a new mustang harness, then having to put the ranger stuff on, i will just put it all together first.

Maybe you guys that have done the wiring can post some pictures of what ranger connectors you put on the mustang harness and where.

This way it would basically be a swap harness, then maybe if i want i could make one or two extra and sell them? IDK?

We can do that.

Typical Mustang ('93) harness:
This was very useful (pun...) for me...
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/files/M-12071-C302.pdf

Just follow these locations, all the parts are listed there.

Here's a one-piece harness for comparison:
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/files/M-12071-A50.pdf

Any other questions, just let us know. I'd recommend putting the ECU in the firewall like '95-newer trucks, but that's up to you.

thanks ted, i guess i haven't thought about this part yet, but what did you do for the relays and dash harness.

I think the dash harness wont be a problem, since i have to splice in the giant round connector that goes thru the fire wall into the mustang harness, Correct?

But the engine compartment fuse/relay box, did you use the ranger or mustang one?

thanks ted, i guess i haven't thought about this part yet, but what did you do for the relays and dash harness.

I think the dash harness wont be a problem, since i have to splice in the giant round connector that goes thru the fire wall into the mustang harness, Correct?

But the engine compartment fuse/relay box, did you use the ranger or mustang one?

Mine is different. The only thing in my Ranger Engine harness was the Ranger Engine. It didn't touch the fuse box, the alternator, the cruise, the dash, nothing at all.
The 42pin connector between the engine harness and truck was all I touched.

The Harwwod told me what the truck-side pins were. Pin x goes to dash oil gauge. Pin y goes to dash temp gauge. Pin z goes to key on power, etc.

edit: ted, I believe the 42 pin connector you are talking about, is the black one with the bolt in the middle, that is picture in the harwood? I dont have the plug anywhere on my harness.

ok so i have no idea , I'm trying to find the same plugs that are in the Harwood and i can only seem to find half of them. from what i remember there is only like 14 wires that need re-pined, which makes me wonder, can i get rid of the wiring from the ranger harness that has plugs for the 3.0 sensors? i need to keep the headlights so obviously that part of the harness needs to go back in. fuse box keep, since it has fuel relay and i can wire the 5.0 ecu into that correct?

What else do i need to keep on the ranger harness? i know there were things you guys cut off that weren't needed, and thats what I'm trying to figure out. I want as little wires as possible.

I guess I'm just so confused right now i would rather pay someone to do this part. I just don't want any unneeded jumble in the engine compartment, if you get what I'm sayin. I want the harness to be as easy as laying it on the motor, plugging all the sensors in, and the connectors then the firewall plug. All one piece, thats what i want. I don't know what else to say.:blahblah::blahblah::blahblah::blahblah::blahb lah: I cante even figure out what i want to say really.

If your pickin up what I'm layin down please help me out.

so this is what i have gotten out of the Harwood on what all needs to be wired up, if there is anything else please throw it up here.

Oil Pressure Gauge/Warning Light
TFI Module on the distributor (3 wire splice)
PCM
Tachometer
Temperature Gauge
Clutch Pedal Position Switch
Vehicle Speed Sensor (I would use the factory Ranger harness for this & need to modify the ground)
Check Engine Light
02 Sensors
Fuel Pump (goes to inertia switch)
Back-up Lights

thats what ive gotten out of it so far, let me know what you think.

Sounds good.
The speed sensor, I just left it all as it was, and removed wires around it.
Some of it really doesn't require touching anything.

I'm off to "work", I'll PM you later.

Well nothing much to say, i have been bored and decided to try my first fiberglass/bondo project. Not done yet but for less then a day total it doesn't look too bad.

On with the pictures

Here was the first idea= FAIL

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00887.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/DSC00888.jpg

And now this is what i decided to do

1 layer
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03151642.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03151642a.jpg

3 layers, has the same strength as the plastic.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03162338.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03162339.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03162339a.jpg

Starting to Bondo

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03171730.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03171730a.jpg

Some Sanding

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03171828.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03171829.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03171829a.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03171830.jpg

Thats how it sits as of now, probably have 3 hours into it, not much don't want to kill myself on this one. Will get come more filler on there to get it fairly smooth, then get some liquid/filler Bondo and get my final layer on. Sand it smooth, paint it Gloss Black and that will be it. I wish i would have thought about SDJR's idea before i cut the piece out but hey, theres plenty on non A/C boxes in the junkyards.

I guess the snow hasn't melted yet? ha ha.

I literally was on my way to get the dremel out, when I thought I'd pause for a "moment of thought" on the "thinking chair".

too bad you don't have the pool of labor with questionable residency status who would sand that thing smooth as a baby's bottom for $5, like around here. LOL

snow has melted, but it just so happened that my gramps was down in Florida for vacation when it did so no workie on the truck.

Also there are plenty of those people around here, they all figured out it was full down south and started coming north.

did a little more work on the heater box

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03181555a.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03191126.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03191126a.jpg

only thing left now is to get some fuller and smooth it out.

O yah, kinda a bad picture but, any ideas on fixing curb rash on wheels?

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww291/SatansBrother05/03101516.jpg

Very nice!