Well, I figure, it's time to start my thread. I am still in the process of tearing apart the engine, but with a thread in here, I can get more pointers.

When it started:
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10337.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10338.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10340.jpg

It's a stock 5.0 out of an 89 Crown Victoria with about 120k miles. Around 150hp and 250 ft/lbs stock.

My plans are... tear it all apart, rebuild it, maybe hone it out if necessary.
I am going to keep the AOD. It has been recommended by some people to convert to carb. I will get a little more power, and a lot easier for a first time swap. I'm not really sure what to do yet.
Carb would sacrifice some mileage but more gains in power correct?

Also, some small mods I will do, smog pump eliminate, probably eliminate the A/C (I'm going to be up in the the Upper peninsula of Michigan, so who needs AC when you get 200+ inches of snow a year), and then maybe some aluminum pulleys.
Tri-Y headers through an X-pipe out through some flowmasters or something similar.
And a shift kit for the AOD.

250hp would be nice by the time all is said and done, but with the simple mods listed above, I don't think I would break 200, which is where a carb'd engine might be much better for my wants...

What do you all think?

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0141.jpg

Tranny is off... Looks like I killed someone on the floor with all the fluid on the ground...

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0142.jpg

As she hangs now

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0140.jpg


And finally, I got bored playing with the greasy engine, so I had to do something that felt real productive:

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0143.jpg

I am trying to get the intake off before I take the other cover off, but it's hard... the 4 6 pointed star screws(forget what they're called) are making it hard... I have broken two screw bits already. Need to buy another tomorrow and 10 bottles of Extra Strength liquid wrench before I pull out the grinder...


hehehehe, my dad must hate me for having this engine in his shop... When everything else looks so much nicer...

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0103.jpg

Looks like you off to a good start.A roller camshaft will do wonders as far as HP.If you are interested in a complete factory roller cam,lifters hold down,lifter retainers,bolts,etc,PM me.Also by removing the smog bump in the exhaust port is worth some HP as is lining up the ports,and a multi angle valve job.A single plane intake,and a Holley 600 cfm double pumper,windage tray in the oil pan,and ARP rods bolts,you can get very close to 300HP if you go with a 5 speed.A AOD take quiet a bit more power to turn than a manual.
Be sure to replace the front seal in the transmission before you reinstall it.

Ok, cool, PM sent, haha.
I would like a 5 speed, but for now, I am going to stick with an auto. I've heard the AOD does steal quite a bit of power, but it's all I got really. 300hp would be great though...
I've been playing around with DesktopDyno 2003 a bit and working on it. That's what made me decide to go carb I think, haha.

Hey a little progress is a good thing if you do it right! See above you are talking about going to the UP, moving or going to Mich Tech? You still in Harvard? Did you know that a bunch of us Ranger owners/drivers are having a meet over in Rockford on May 23, that must be a 45 min drive for you. Don't really have to bring a Ranger, just a love of them and join right in. Lifted, dropped or the always work in progress doesn't really matter.
Dave - shoot me a PM for more info.

Yup, I'm going to Michigan Tech for the next 5 years. Mechanical Engineering and minor in business hopefully.

I am hoping to be at that meet. I am on the list. My truck will be there too, still in 4.0L form. It's right around graduation for me though, but I still should be able to make it.

I got a couple questions...

1. Will the AOD fit with my driveshaft, or do I need to modify that a bit?

2. When I convert to carb, do I need to pick up a duraspark II off an older V8, or can I use my current ignition stuff?

3. I was reading on TRS about a shorter water pump, do I need to pick one of those up too?

I got a couple questions...

1. Will the AOD fit with my driveshaft, or do I need to modify that a bit?

2. When I convert to carb, do I need to pick up a duraspark II off an older V8, or can I use my current ignition stuff?

3. I was reading on TRS about a shorter water pump, do I need to pick one of those up too?

1.The shaft should work,but you may have to get a 5.0 stang front trans slip yoke.
2.Your current ign will not work,you have to use a Duraspark,MSD,etc. for a distributor.They also make a HEI for Fords(1 wire).
3.A Explorer and acessories give more room,but you can use a standard WP too.It's just tight.

Ok, cool, thanks. MSD stuff is pretty expensive, so I will probably pick on up off an older V8 at a junk yard sometime.

Is there a way for me to look at the transmission at all, before I put it in my truck, and figure out if it is in working order at all? I don't want to drop it all in my truck and end up with a dead tranny...

I figured out my backup plan though! Before I tear my truck apart, I can get a motorcycle liscense, and ride my dads Honda 250 around town and too work for a week while the truck is torn apart, lol.

I don't have any pictures to go with my progress, camera is dead, but I will try and get them tomorrow.

I had a Homer Simpson moment while working... I could only get one bolt off the flywheel holding the torque convertor on. It was the only one I could get a socket around. The other ones I tried with an open end wrench. Bad Mistake, one was pretty badly stripped... Anyway, my Homer moment was, I never thought of rotating the engine to get at the other bolts... Once I did that, I could get 2 more off, and the last bolt I had to use a vice grip since it was stripped. But I got that off, and took the fly wheel off.
Took out the spark plugs to try a thumb compression test. And the spark plugs are slightly black at the ends... (picture tomorrow) so I think there is a small oil leak in the cylinders. All 8 plugs look the same too. With the thumb compression test, and a ratchet on the crank pulley, my dad says some cylinders have a little more compression then others... So we need to replace the cylinder gaskets, or valves, w/e it is.
Started cleaning as well... This will be a long process, haha. Out side will take a couple days, with detergent or something similar. Then some sand paper and rust remover on a couple spots.
In the intake ports of the heads, there seems to be some carbon or something. I should probably take the heads in for a valve job and good cleaning at NAPA.
I have a friend who just received his automotive degree, and is also rebuilding a 5.0L out of an 80s Lincoln, so he can help me out some I hope.

Anyway, I'll try and get some pics tomorrow.

Have your buddy take a look at that trans or take it to a shop for a quick look. The swap project if done right in not an overnight job.
Dave

Oh, no def not over night, but I am hoping with the engine ready before hand for the most part, I can make it a 30-40 hour job.

Got Some pics to go along now.

My work place, sitting on a piece of plywood... Sometimes I wish my driveway was paved... Engine lift doesnt roll well on gravel.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10396.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10397.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10398.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10399.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10400.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10401.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10402.jpg

Started cleaning it a bit. Oil pan is pretty bad. Some rust remover and some sand paper might clean it up though. I'm not sure.

That is a roller camshaft engine.

Oh, so that is different then you had first assumed? Is that good? Or does this mean, by adding that cam you offered me, I wouldn't reach the 225hp mark... It's more the E6 heads holding the power at 150 isn't it?

Oh, so that is different then you had first assumed? Is that good? Or does this mean, by adding that cam you offered me, I wouldn't reach the 225hp mark... It's more the E6 heads holding the power at 150 isn't it?

Yes.I thought your engine came out of a Crown Vic,or similar.That engine came out of a Mustang,or a late model Explorer.If the heads are indeed E6's,that would be a slight restriction.E7's flow slightly better.If your engine came from a 86 Mustang,I think they had forged pistons,and NO valve reliefs.
BTW,that is a crown vic or something intake

The guy said it came out of an 89 grand marquis. Can I check the casting ##?

that engine didnt come from a mustang unless they took off the intake and put one off a f-150 or crown vic

I did some reading, and I think Crown Vics did come with Roller Motors. Only thing I am curious about is, is it still rated at 150hp? If so... that sucks, lol. What is the difference with an HO engine then? Just the E7 heads?

Also, if I have some oil on the spark plugs, they are a bit black, but not dirty or anything else wrong with them, just not that nice brown color, does that mean leaking piston rings? Or is it burning oil somewhere else possibly?

Looks like either a Crown Vic or Grand Marquis, same motor, both rated at 150 HP. Non-HO motor. Big difference is the lot less perfromance cam in the non-ho motors. They run a different firing order. You could really enlarge one of your first pictures of it hanging and check the plug wiring to confirm firing order. The injectors and TB are another clue. Think the non-ho run a 45mm TB. What color were the injectors?
Dave

My mistake.lol,I guess the cam and intake are the only difference,but I could be wrong AGAIN!

Watch out on those duraspark distributors. 1985 Ford Mustang GT with Manual trans I believe is the only year with duraspark and a roller cam (steel gear) from the factory. If you get one with a cast gear and use it with the roller cam, it will get eaten up.

Pete

Ok, thanks for the heads up. So if I got a CAM from a HO engine, a decent intake and 600cfm carb or so, I could still hit near 225hp possibly? With some more bolt ons, maybe some more power too?

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0150.jpg

Those are flat tappet lifters, not roller lifters, meaning I also don't have a roller cam...

Everything says that is a roller cam so far. Remove a rocker arm, pushrod and the "spider, holds the lifters from rotating" and pull a lifter out. It's at the bottom of the lifter where the name "Roller Motor" comes from. Flat tappets have a flat machined surface that rides on the cam lobes. Roller cams actually have a small wheel that rides on the cam lobe, much less friction and other advantages. There are roller tipped rocker arms that have nothing to do if it is a roller/flat tappet cam.
Dave - small picture from the Summit catalog showing a roller lifter.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/cca-836-1_w.jpg

Oh, Ok, I understand now.

Well, I figured there is no way to do a compression test without a starter, so I just took it all apart.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0152.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0153.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0154.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10493.jpg
That is the worst cylinder, the others aren't that bad.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10494.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10495.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10496.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10497.jpg

What do you all think of the condition?

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0156.jpg
Dirty Pistons

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0155.jpg
Cleaned pistons. Tomorrow I will have a lot more time. Going to clean the other 4 and the heads if I get that far, and have enough cleaning stuff left.

nice and clean

Thanks, you think it needs just a honing, or a boring too?

Thanks, you think it needs just a honing, or a boring too?

Hard to say over the internet, does it have a bad cylinder ridge? I usually let a machine shop look it over and tell me what it needs. They can tell you what you can get by with, and what would be a good idea to machine as far as tolerances since they have the tools to measure that stuff accurately. Just take it there, I am sure someone will be glad to take a look.

From the pics, it looks like you have a roller block. Good deal.

Your engine looks similar to mine (~120K miles) when I cracked it open, but I had it bored and the crank turned by recommendation of the shop. Also had the heads looked over and reworked, they were a used set of GT40s.

Pete

Hey Pete,
Bet you know as well as many others, what's the lift at the valve you can safely go with the flat top's he has? Cost of a normal head job in our area ran me almost $300 six years ago, how about today? Ballpark figure. Told him I might be able to stop by his place next week and drop off some parts.
Dave

When I built the frankenstein 5.0L I used to have, I just hit the bores with a hone, tossed in a set of used 5.0L forged pistons, new bearings and rings and ran it. I also swapped in a used HO cam. It was fun to drive and ran pretty decently even with the E6 heads and Explorer manifolds.

Check for a ring ridge at the top of the bore. If it is really tiny or non-existent, just clean it up and go. Look for bad scratches in the cylinder walls as well. It kinda looks like you can still see the factory honing marks from you pics which would be a good sign.

Good luck.

Oh yeah, since they are off, think REAL HARD about swapping those E6's for some GT40's or at the very least E7's.

i've got a set of e7's you can have if you figure out how to get them

I thought really hard about a different set of heads. My wallet just shook it's head no, wouldn't even consider it...

But, in a flat rate shipping box those E7s probably wouldn't cost too much to ship.
Are they in decent condition, or do they need a valve job and all?

I'll see if I can get it to a machine shop or take a good look at them myself.

Would forged pistons be any benefit to me? Or without any other upgrades, pistons wouldn't make a huge difference?

My buddy told me I could have the heads machined down slightly for a small bump in compression too... What do you think about that?

I would definitely look into getting some forged pistons if you are trying to make any power whatsoever. And E7 casting heads (from a truck, Mustang, or Mark VII) are leaps and bounds better than C6 casting heads (Crown Vic, Town Car). You can pick a set of E7s up for around $100. Also be sure to grind the Thermactor bump out of the exhaust ports. Just that little modification will help out greatly. Don't knock E7s just becuse they are stock- cars running Factory Stock class have run low 11s on these heads.

Hey Pete,
Bet you know as well as many others, what's the lift at the valve you can safely go with the flat top's he has? Cost of a normal head job in our area ran me almost $300 six years ago, how about today? Ballpark figure. Told him I might be able to stop by his place next week and drop off some parts.
Dave

Not sure about the valve lift with factory flat tops, I replaced my pistons with forged that had valve reliefs and my B303 cam @ 1.6:1 is only .488" lift. I checked it with clay and there wasn't any piston to valve interference. Seems like duration and other factors would come into play, better safe than sorry. :)

I will dig up my machine shop receipt when I get home tonight, I had a bunch of stuff done at once and ordered some parts through them. The total will be a little skewed, knew a guy there and he did a bunch of stuff for free. I am sure it was a little more than $300 though.

Pete

I looked into forged pistons. They are really expensive, I think out of my budget...

I just bought a set of used stock 5.0L forged pistons. Mainly for the benefit of valve reliefs. I think I paid $75 for them off of the corral. Cleaned them up, put new rings in and drove the snot out of it. I sold that engine to a friend who sprayed it to low 12's in a Fox body.

Since the engine is pretty much apart, my advice is to make some smart part choices that will not limit your possible future upgrades.

I have a good set of recently pulled low mileage factory forged pistons with the factory good rods. PM if your intersted..

Also since you cleaned the top of the pistons you probably sent more debris down into the rings then there was to begin with. I would suggest pulling the pistons, and at least visually check and plastigague the bearings.

The whole bottom end of the engine can be rebuilt for for less than $500 including buying forged pistons. This is as long as no machine work is required. Look around for sets of used forged pistons and parts on Mustang forums and on here. Be patient and don't rush your project, it will pay off in the long run. Just FYI- there are a few parts that are HIGHLY recommended that you should replace since you have the bottom end of the engine apart:
1. Oil pump and shaft- Advance Auto sells Melling oil pumps for less than $30 and replace the factory drive shaft with an ARP one. It's cheap insurance.
2. Crank and rod bearings- Advance also stocks these. I think the complete set cost me about $60.
3. Harmonic balancer- ALWAYS replace this on a rebuild. Harmonics destroy an engine very quickly. Get a Professional Products one, it's a race quality piece for about the same price as a factory one. And don't forget the crank pulley spacer.

I rebuilt the engine in my Ranger for about $300. I started with an engine from an '88 Mustang so I already had the forged pistons. But, I did a compression check before I tore the motor down and it checked out OK. So, I tore it down and saw that the cylinders looked good and the cross-hatches were still visible so I left the rings alone. Just be sure to torque all the rod and crank bolts. And when you do, torque them in steps so they will all be torqued evenly.

One other thing is to maybe look for another engine from a Lincoln Mark VII. They normally don't have the piss run out of them and they are H.O. motors identical to the one from a Mustang.

I already know the rings are bad, at least that's what I think it is, since it was burning some oil...
I'll keep my eye out for some forged pistons off corral or chitownracing. They came in all HO engines?
I am planning on replacing the rings and bearings and all with the rebuild.

How much better are E7s over E6s anyway?

Forged pistons came in '87-92 5.0L HO (Mustang, Mark VII) models.

I'd say the E7's are probably worth 20-25 hp over the E6's. Look at the chambers on the E6's. The valves are really sunk into the chamber and very heavily shrouded.

Yeah, I did some research, I think the E7s might be worth it. I have an offer on Chitownracing already for a set at $85, and they have upgraded valve springs allowing up to .550" of lift...
But can I use those with my stock pistons?... I have some offers on pistons and rods as well around the same price, but I really want to keep this a budget build.

That is in fact a roller cam block. It has the spider and dog bones. A non roller cam will have the pads where the bolts go to hold down the spider but no bolt holes. If a block has the pads it is a roller block just doesn't have a roller cam installed. You can then drill and tap the holes and retrofit the roller cam in.

From what I can tell the crown vics never got the e7 heads. I would almost recommend trying to find a set of gt40 style heads if you are intent on not using the stock ones. On second thought you will be much happier with a set of aluminum heads. You can get them for pretty cheap these days. Unless you luck out and find a good deal stock heads will take some money to get good power from. Yes they are used by factory stock racers to run quick ET's but I bet they have $1000 worth of work done to them, like bigger valves, acid port, big time milling to raise compression.

As far as using a carb goes, I like the Megasquirt fuel injection kit. It can use the harness and sensors you already have and is fully tunable to what you have not and may have in the future. It will also give the best mileage and power where a carb can be tuned for either one or the other but generally not both.

Forged pistons aren't really necessary unless you are increasing cylinder pressure. For this build you will get little benefit. Buy a stock rebuild kit, I think I paid something like $300 or so with pistons. Get a better cam definitely. Check out Tri State Cylinder Head for some decent deals on heads. I think they might be a little more than you are looking to pay, but if you do it right the first time you won't be tearing it back apart in 6 months to put better heads on. And you will always want more power, it's guaranteed.

The thing with the factory forged pistons is that they have valve reliefs cut into them while the cast flat tops do not. You WILL run into clearance issues using the the cast pistons while running a bigger cam. So all in all, if you have the motor torn down and want to make power eventually then, it would be almost stupid not to change the pistons.

The thing with the factory forged pistons is that they have valve reliefs cut into them while the cast flat tops do not. You WILL run into clearance issues using the the cast pistons while running a bigger cam. So all in all, if you have the motor torn down and want to make power eventually then, it would be almost stupid not to change the pistons.

what he said ^^^^

just get these. they will work fine for a mild street motor. as long as you don't plan on spraying it or running a blower.

http://beta.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-17302-00/

last set of pistons i had changed ran me $50 at the local machine shop

Ok, I had three seperate offers for a set of E7 heads. All free. One is in a town about 10 minutes away. But the guy is also giving me a set of forged pistons and rods, with brand new rings for $75. 6 of the 8 pistons are notched for larger valves too. So, once I get some money in a week or two here, I am going to get all that. Grind the exhaust bumps, and possibly get a book on porting, and maybe do a little myself...

But I have two questions.

1. Camshaft. Which one? Someone offered me an Explorer Cam for $10. Should I go with that cam?

2. Headers. I read Tri-Ys don't work with an AOD. If I get a mini-starter, and some small mods to the headers, will they fit?

So, I might bid on a set of GT40P heads on ebay... I know header fitment is a bit of a problem with those, but header fitment is a bit of a problem in the ranger anyway... My hope is, no one will bid on them, as they don't include rockers, and are a pain to ship. But they are nearby for me...

Certainly be better than E7's.

As for your Tri-y question, I still think it will be tough.

Gt40Ps are the best heads, better flowing then GT40s, but idk about the spark plug problem... I might be stuck using stock manifolds anyway, until I can afford some Torque Monster Headers.

Well, I am going to go with E7s. I talked to my friend whos dad is a welder for the airline industry. He thinks his dad could probably modify the Tri-Ys to fit the AOD.

Also, these are the heads I was offered:

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/parts036.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/parts037.jpg

Think that rust will clean up, or will they need milling for sure? How much can I mill them and still not have to mill the intake?

Modding the Tri-Ys to fit shouldn't be a big deal at all. Just cut off the pipe before the collector, cut an angle on it and re weld it. I had to do some fancy finagling to get the exhaust to work on mine even with a T5.

Ok, my friend right down the street, his dad is an airline welder, so he shouldn't have a problem with some simple exhaust.

I started my porting. Bought some steel file bits at menards, and a couple stones. And my Grandpa lent me some other ones. I took a wire brush to all the rust, and now it's nice and clean. Then I started on my exhaust ports. Ground off the exhaust bumps in one head. Didn't do much else except a little around the valve guide. Opened up the port a little as well. I read taking the exhaust bumps off alone gains about 20hp. So with what I have done to the exhaust ports, maybe around 25hp gains?
When I am finished with the steal cutting/filing bit I will take a stone to it and smooth it all out.
For intake ports, I will probably just take off the intrusions of the pushrods, and leave it at that. I don't have 4" bits, so I really can't get in the intake ports very well. I am doing this all with an old electric drill too, but it's fairly easy to use.

This is the article I am following:
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/e7.html

If you are thinking about doing this, I highly recommend it!! A year ago, I didn't even know what a head was, now I am porting my own set of heads... haha. I'm not really sure what the final flow will be and how it will compare to GT40 heads, but I am hoping similar.

Hey, that's how most learn, jump in. Sure you might make mistakes but that's the learning process. Don't enough room to list my learning mistakes.
Dave

Making good progress on the head porting. About half way. I don't have long bits, so I can't get deep on the intake ports... And I should be getting gaskets tomorrow to compare.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10640.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10644.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10646.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10654.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10670.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10667.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10669.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/SDC10663.jpg

Theres a good amount of pictures. As you can see, I got my sister to work on the sanding. Gave her a piece of 400grit paper to smooth out the exhaust ports after I took the file and stone to them.

Well glad to see you got some help, teach her right on working on car/truck parts. You can get bit extenders from Farm & Fleet or most hardward stores to make it easier. Think when I did the set from my '66', I gained almost an 1/8" all around the exhaust port, but only went 1/2".
Dave

are you going to pull the valves to clean/lap them?

are you going to pull the valves to clean/lap them?

I don't have any tools for that... And a machine shop would be like a $100+ I think.

I would sure hope the heads get a going thru, new valve springs with the different cam.
Dave

Well, it's the same cam these heads had though. HO cam with HO heads.
I really need to have them gone through?

I would but you're on a different buget. Take them heads all apart, clean really good, you can buy lapping compound for the valves and do it yourself. You might need new valve guides, can't tell from here. A shop would hot tank them and do a real good job of cleaning them up. How many miles on the heads? Springs do wear out, lose their tension after miles.

I think they have around 120k on them...
I will stop by Sears tomorrow and see if I can find a tool for compressing the springs. If I can get that cheap, then lapping the valves shouldn't be a problem.

i bought one at harbor freight for $10. the lapping compound was like $5. the reason i said that is i bought a set of e7's with 65k. i didn't check them over just cleaned them. i took them apart after i ran them for about 20k. and found the valve guides had 2cracks and was leaking oil on the intake valves.

Ok, well, I'll def go to Sears tomorrow and get a took, take the valves out, clean the ports, and check the valve guides.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W84002/
Would that be the tool I need? I don't see how it would work though...

On a side note, I bought a fuel pump. Now I just need to drill my timing plate of something, as the EFI ones are block off where the fuel pump mounts I think.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260441720958&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

Says it doesnt come with fittings, so I'm not sure what all I still need?

this is like the one i got
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-4573/e i got

i rented a valve spring compressor for like $20 from advance then after i finished lapping all 16valves (OMG!!!) i took it back and got my money back.

i really wanna buy some decent heads for it, i dont want aluminum right now, im gonna buy another block (i hope a roller block) and build that up. i want some good stock option with some porting, it has 351 heads right now :(

Got the valve spring compressor from advance, and the lapping compound. Compressor was $60... but I can return it, lol.

And I got my gasket set in the mail. Head gaskets got a little bent... ugh... one might be shot...

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0170.jpg

So, one thing crossed my mind. The AOD I have, since it came from a bigger car, is probably calibrated for 3.73 gears or something right? So, this would be a good reason to upgrade my gearing along with installing my trac-loc...

On a side note, I bought a fuel pump. Now I just need to drill my timing plate of something, as the EFI ones are block off where the fuel pump mounts I think.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260441720958&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

Says it doesnt come with fittings, so I'm not sure what all I still need?
That is a nice looking pump but don't think it's going to work, won't clear the frame or steering. You need the inverted one from a '73' Econoline van. I'd sure just go with a low pressure electric, don't even think about drilling the timing cover, need the boss that the pump mounts on. You'd still have to add the eccentric drive for the pump, mounts on the cam in front of the timing chain.
Dave

I didn't look at my timing cover... It doesn't have the boss for the pump. I was told by some guy on Chitownracing that the efi ones were the same as the carb ones, just the pump area was filled in... He was wrong in my case though.

So this pump won't do me any good? That sucks... A low pressure electric pump? About what kind of pressure? Going to be more expensive too... oh well.

I haven't run an electric pump in 30 years so really don't want to give you some bad advice. Lots here are running an electric and better off to listen to them.
Bitch slap that guy from Chitownracing.
Dave

Haha, will do, except, he is the guy that gave me free E7 heads... lol

So what about those head gaskets, the little kink in them from the mail, are they still useable?

No, that gasket is junk, send them back.

FYI, the FRPP M-6051-A302 head gaskets are just repackaged Fel Pro 1011-2, but they're $30 a set versus $40 each for the Fel Pros. The FRPP gaskets seriously have "Fel Pro" and "1011-2" stamped in them.

No, that gasket is junk, send them back.

FYI, the FRPP M-6051-A302 head gaskets are just repackaged Fel Pro 1011-2, but they're $30 a set versus $40 each for the Fel Pros. The FRPP gaskets seriously have "Fel Pro" and "1011-2" stamped in them.

Just go with a set of 9333-pt1's. I explained why in my post in the regular V8 tech thread about this.

I got another set of heads,and if you want the ported E7's I have,I will let them go for $200.00.They have all new locks TrickFlow valve springs,retainers,etc.Just bolt them on and go.This may save you some money,especially of you get a valve job from a machine shop.
Heads have less than 1K miles.
BTW,don't use that head gasket.It will most likely leak.

Yeah, do not use that gasket. It's junk.

Damn, that sucks... I bought those off ebay, probably can't send them back. Only $45 for the whole felpro set, but still.

I think you live too far away for the E7 heads... It would be another $100 just to ship them. Mine will hopefully be alright though when it's all done.

Guys on corral say I won't gain much of anything if I don't go to bigger valves. One guy had 1.94" intake and 1.60" exhaust. But idk if I want to spend that much. I am not expecting huge gains from this porting really. How much do you think I will gain?

You're going to run the stock GT cam right? Don't think you'll gain a lot. Just get it all cleaned up, get it running. As far as the head gasket, just got to NAPA and get one. Go for more mods next Summer if needed. I've learned that a lot of people are sure willing to spend your money, on your buget..
Got up to a whopping 63 degs with rain up here today, so much for "Goreble" warning.
Dave

Yeah, I really want to get it running this summer. Next summer, if I do anything, it will be nitrous... But most likely I will be broke as a joke, lol.

Some of the guys on corral estimate around 240rwhp and 290 rwtq. That would be sweet. About 100hp and tq increase over what I have.

I'm thinking the weekend of August 8th or 15th will be the weekend I pull my old motor and start to put this one in.

Bro, check out my thread and/ or CarDomain page. There's alot of stuff on there that I think will help you move your project on a little faster. It seems like alot of people are always trying to spend your money for you, I know what it's like. Just get it to move and the work it from there. The hard part is getting the all the parts to work together initially. It took 3 years to finally make up my mind and get to where I'm at now.

Your right about people wanting to spend my money, lol. Here on RPS, people must be a lot nicer. Over on corral, it's rough. And don't even get started with chitownracing... those guys will rip you apart on any subject they disagree on, lol.

I think after the heads, it's a matter of gathering up the last parts, and putting it togethor.

Oh, one more thing I thought I'd mention... My friend just joined the army. I didn't talk to him very much, but I work with his best friend, also a friend of mine. I was talking to him the other day. And I asked about Ian's, the kid in the army, Mustang. Apparently he sold it to a friend for $351... Good running Mustang, '94. 5.0, 5 speed... I missed quite a deal there. The body was a bit rough. I say good running, but I guess I really don't know. He drove it to school every day, lol. His last Mustang(restored '67, 289) he blew the tranny on by driving it into a ditch drunk... So I guess this one might be in rough shape too, as he drove it drunk plenty of times... idiot.
But, anyway, good deal I missed.

Bro, check out my thread and/ or CarDomain page. There's alot of stuff on there that I think will help you move your project on a little faster. It seems like alot of people are always trying to spend your money for you, I know what it's like. Just get it to move and the work it from there. The hard part is getting the all the parts to work together initially. It took 3 years to finally make up my mind and get to where I'm at now.

Glad you see it from my point of view also. Just running a stock 302 over anything is so much better. Learn to handle the power and then move up the power when you have the money. Still not a thing in the world wrong with only having 300 HP at the crank in a Ranger.
Dave

300hp at the crank would be great. I am thinking more like 270hp at the crank, at most though with this build.

I talked to my friend. He's got a MIG welder. When I need to modify my Tri-Y headers, I will bring that over there. And to do my full exhaust as well. Probably give him like $40-60 and we will build it up togethor.

I'm thinking, Tri-Y. Dual exhaust using Dynomax Trush Welded mufflers after an H-pipe dumped somewhere under the bed, or maybe out the side in front of the passenger tire.
The only thing with reusing my cats, my exhaust would have to stay at 2 1/4" piping right? Would this be any bottle neck? I kind of doubt it with this mainly stock 302.

I talked to my friend. He's got a MIG welder. When I need to modify my Tri-Y headers, I will bring that over there. And to do my full exhaust as well. Probably give him like $40-60 and we will build it up togethor.

I'm thinking, Tri-Y. Dual exhaust using Dynomax Trush Welded mufflers after an H-pipe dumped somewhere under the bed, or maybe out the side in front of the passenger tire.
The only thing with reusing my cats, my exhaust would have to stay at 2 1/4" piping right? Would this be any bottle neck? I kind of doubt it with this mainly stock 302.

What needs to be modified on the tri-y's? I thought they were a direct bolt in aside from the O2 bungs.

They don't fit with the AOD... I haven't bought them to try them myself, but I was told they don't fit right with the AOD.

One more thing, while I am on summit and ebay ordering a couple parts, I bent the block plate on the AOD a bit when I took it off, do I need a new one? Or is it safe to bend back and reuse?

And these are the mounts I need correct?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HEAVY-DUTY-CONVERTIBLE-MOTOR-MOUNTS-5-0-302-MUSTANG-V8_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a15Q7c66Q3a2Q7c 39Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2e m14QQhashZitem1c0b4b12b6QQitemZ120448553654QQptZMo torsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


After doing a little research, I decided I am going to go with the B&M shift kit for the AOD. What's the shift point on an AOD? I could also get a governor recalibration kit that would allow up to 5500 RPM. Think that's a good or bad idea?

those mounts will work

The Tri Ys passenger side header has a bend on it the will hit the AOD. It will need to be cut and straightened out. My engine right now probably makes 300hp at the most at the crank and it blows the tires off the truck now even with an open diff and 3.08s. So 275hp should be perfectly streetable.

On another note- why not go with some high-flow cats on your truck? They're $80 a piece for 2 1/2" Magnaflow ones from Summit.

Cause $80 a piece would be another $160 on the budget... maybe I can just search Chitownracing. They always have exhaust stuff forsale there. Get an H-pipe maybe.

I'm going to buy all the rest of my parts tonight hopefully...

Mufflers
Motor Mounts
Valve cover oil cap
Shift Improver kit
Oil Filter Relocation kit
Headers

Already got bearings, gaskets, piston rings, heads, cam, pistons, oil pan...
I will get the carb and intake from Swapper someday, haha.
And I am going to search Corral for a fuel pump. Holley red or something similar.
Do I need a new block plate if mine got bent?

Two suggestions for you to think about- 1st do a Holley blue pump because you can build on it. I always tend to go a little overkill with the fuel systems but I'd rather stay rich than go lean. That and it gives room for upgrades. 2nd- Buy a quality billet oil filter relocator such as a Canton or Moroso. I tried using the Trans-Dapt kit and it was more headache than what its worth. All I used off the kit was the oil filter mount. The billet ones fit with no modification, the don't leak and can be clocked to any direction.

Ok, I'll look into that.

idk about the blue pump. I'm just seeing what I can find on Corral...

So, I other then the pump, I need different fuel lines correct? And of course a new fuel filter... What type of fuel lines should I get though?

I used braided steel hose. Could use some rubber hose.

They don't fit with the AOD... I haven't bought them to try them myself, but I was told they don't fit right with the AOD.

One more thing, while I am on summit and ebay ordering a couple parts, I bent the block plate on the AOD a bit when I took it off, do I need a new one? Or is it safe to bend back and reuse?

And these are the mounts I need correct?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HEAVY-DUTY-CONVERTIBLE-MOTOR-MOUNTS-5-0-302-MUSTANG-V8_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a15Q7c66Q3a2Q7c 39Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2e m14QQhashZitem1c0b4b12b6QQitemZ120448553654QQptZMo torsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


After doing a little research, I decided I am going to go with the B&M shift kit for the AOD. What's the shift point on an AOD? I could also get a governor recalibration kit that would allow up to 5500 RPM. Think that's a good or bad idea?


ah, ok. Didn't realize you were using an AOD, that makes sense.

I used braided steel hose. Could use some rubber hose.

K. I keep seeing, -6an and -8an... I tried a google search, but I don't know what it means still?

Its the size of the line.

AN stands for Army-Navy. They are military - spec fittings.
The number represents the outside diamter of the tubing, in 1/16".. So, "dash 4" is four sixteenths of an inch in size. (-4 = 1/4", -5 = 5/16")

Similar to JIC fittings, with a 37deg flare.
I looked for AN fittings here and people looked at me like I was insane.

AN stands for Army-Navy. They are military - spec fittings.
The number represents the outside diamter of the tubing, in 1/16".. So, "dash 4" is four sixteenths of an inch in size. (-4 = 1/4", -5 = 5/16")


What he said. AC fitting are the same too. You can go to Home Depot or Lowes and get the flare fittings but they will be brass and not anodized aluminum. I used -8 line for my truck because I can build on it. Like I said I tend to go overboard with the fuel, but when I get some $$ for a good set of heads, the fuel will already be there.

I got a holley blue and regulator coming in the mail soon I think...

Got home today to a package with a B&M shift kit, Oil Pump driveshaft, and King Bearings. Got the crankshaft in, and 2 pistons. It's about 7 now, I had to come in. Lunch break was at 11, I'm about to implode, haha. And low blood suger... had to take a break. Maybe after dinner I will go back out there.

Went to the Junkyard today. Didn't have any luck with a starter. They wanted $25 for a starter that I had to pull myself. And there weren't many 5.0s left in the vehicles... Plus it was muddy and nothing had any wheels left, so there wasnt a way to get down there.
Shifter we didn't get either.
What we did get was an electric fan. It's off a Pontiac Grand Am. Dual fans. Don't know how well they will work... Cost $42 which was more then I was expecting as well...

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0177.jpg

So I am trying to figure out how to time the cam and all to install the timing chain... According to my book, the crank gear should have the timing point facing straight up, with piston 1 at TDC. And then the cam with the pin pointing down. But the timing point on the cam should also be down, and I don't know where the timing point is on the HO cam...
Any help?

the marks are on the timing gears.

Found them and got it installed. Started on the timing cover and harmonic balencer... That thing will not go on. I have a harmonic balancer installer, and I still can't seem to get it on. It's a long rod/screw that I screw into the crankshaft. Then a big nut is supposed to push on a thrust bearing that pushes on the balancer. Well, the balancer is so deep set that I had to put a block of Oak with a hole drilled in the center to push on the balancer from the outside. Still couldn't get it all the way on. Got it some of the way, but now, as I crank on the nut, it just is crushing the piece of Oak... The balancer will just simply not go on... I must be doing something wrong here.

Don't know what balancer you're using but sometime you have to heat the balancer up a little to get it to go on. Then use the tool to press it on some and use the bolt and hit it with an impact.

I'm using the stock balancer, I will just put on the retaining bolt and torque it to the 90 ft/lbs. By then it should be on all the way...

Bad news... my dad doesnt want me to put it in my truck, and the title is in his name...
Looking for an older Ranger, or Fox Stang. Fox stangs are much easier to find...

Yeah but every one and their mom has one (or 2 in my case)...

As far as the balancer goes, do you have the keyway lined up?

Oh, about that balancer... Had the crank sprocket backwards, LOL! Ordered a new timing chain set, so that will be here tomorrow.

Yeah but every one and their mom has one (or 2 in my case)...

Thats true. There are only 2 in my town of 9000 though. One is a nice clean 5.0. The other a 4 banger, or completely stock 5.0, as it's very quiet.
The advantage to one Stang I found... Comes with A9P, Harness, Full Length headers, and some other goodies... that alone will save me around $300 in the build, and the car only costs $500, or $600 with a 306, extra set of ported E7 heads, and an E303 cam...

Thats true. There are only 2 in my town of 9000 though. One is a nice clean 5.0. The other a 4 banger, or completely stock 5.0, as it's very quiet.
The advantage to one Stang I found... Comes with A9P, Harness, Full Length headers, and some other goodies... that alone will save me around $300 in the build, and the car only costs $500, or $600 with a 306, extra set of ported E7 heads, and an E303 cam...

Sounds like the one i bought 2 years ago. Except I sold the good running motor out of it for more than I bought the car for.

I don't think I could sell the 306... I am leaving for college in a couple weeks, so I wouldnt have time to sell it, and the guy has already been trying to sell it. This summer, I would see if I can get the 302 in. Next summer I would start to put on the missing body panels, switch in an 8.8" and maybe paint it.

Well... it's official. I am not allowed to put it in my truck. Was hoping that when I started talking about buying another car, my dad would not want to me spend another $500, and let me put it in the truck, but it didn't work. So I am just going to get a stang, and go EFI.

Sorry to hear the news but don't lose the dream. Think you are starting to see how long and how much money it takes to do it right. You'd be just another one of many here with a Mustang. Guess I can go and sell those parts now.
Dave

Yeah... I wish I could still do it in the Ranger. I looked for an older one too, but couldn't find any... All being destroyed in Cash for Clunkers.

So, even though it's not going in a Ranger anymore... I'll keep the thread going with the new car...

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/Picture390-1.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/Picture39332.jpg

Getting it later this week. 8.8" rear, A9P + Harness, lowering springs, new shocks(not sure what kind), already has AOD shifter. He was asking $500, but that was when it came with headers, which are now gone. So I will offer $400.

Long Block is done. What do you think of the Paint?

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0185.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0186.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0187.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0188.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd282/superman22x/Project%20302/IMAG0189.jpg


When all is said and done, I can add to my list of things I've built. 2 computers, 1 engine, and 1 car. lol, I guess Mechanical Engineering seems like the right route?

Do yourself a favor and buy some different valve cover gaskets. I wont use cork for anything. Over time it will begin to seep oil through it.

I used cork on the oil pan too... along with gasket sealer. What kind of gaskets would you recommend?

I used cork on the oil pan too... along with gasket sealer. What kind of gaskets would you recommend?

For the valve covers I recommend the factory gaskets. They are metal with a rubber "o-ring" type of seal all the way around the perimeter. They are a little pricey, but are also re-usable. I've got the original's on my Mustang and I've had them on and off 4 or 5 times now. Not a drip of oil leaked. My engine for the ranger has cork VC gaskets right now and the heads are just saturated with oil.

For the oil pan I recommend the Fel-pro perma-seal gasket. The one with the steel core. I used this one on the Mustang aswell. A little expensive, but an excellent gasket. Install it dry with a light skim coat of clean motor oil to prevent it from binding under torque. A dab of RTV (Permatex "right stuff") in the corners where the pan has the semi-circles for the crank openings. A light coat of RTV over both sides of the "semi-circle's". And finally a dab where the timing cover, pan and block all meet. This ensures a leak free, durable, long term seal.

Even on a budget, gaskets are something I will spring for the "best" on.

On another note, what in the world kind of sensor set-up do you have plugged into the heater fitting hole? I know one is the ECT sensor, but what is it screwed into?

I really don't know... I need to get a wiring diagram for an 89 grand marquis, and one for the 87 Mustang.

On another note, what in the world kind of sensor set-up do you have plugged into the heater fitting hole? I know one is the ECT sensor, but what is it screwed into?

It's a fitting so he can use soft heater hoses, instead of the metal ones.

It's a fitting so he can use soft heater hoses, instead of the metal ones.

That was my guess, but I hadnt ever seen one before.