hi. im on my second ranger, a 91 2.3, 5-speed, base model with manual steering. white with blue interior. so far all i've done is cut about two rounds out of the front springs, then i drilled new mounting hole's higher up in the mounts for the beams to save my camber, and took out the two middle leaves in each pack out back. other then that it all stock except newer ranger wheels.

here's a pic
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/43/l_fdb106a394f908572faaac0438c5499c.jpg

you do realise.. redrilling the beam holes throws off the suspension geometry right?

Welcome to RPS!

you do realise.. redrilling the beam holes throws off the suspension geometry right?

also, wouldn't that bring the beams close to hitting the oil pan?

welcome to RPS

i redrilled the holes directly above the old one's. so technically i just moved the beams up. other then that i didnt change anything. the truck ride's just the same as it did before, just stiffer. everything i did is reversible, and i bounced it as much as i could by hand before i drove it. and i have hauled trash to the dump, went over speedbumps, and have never hit the pan or the crossmember.

if you raise the beams up, your changing the suspension geometry because the axis changes.. doing stuff like this, can cause bump steer.... the only way you can safely do somthing like this, is if you figured out the correct axis and placement in Cad software for your drop b4 drilling.. otherwise it'll be off, and your camber out will be out positive.. you should reconsider the front suspension and install drop beams in the original mounting location.

Welcome to RPS!

matt167, first off i am not questioning your knowledge, but here is what i thought when i dropped my truck. i knew if i cut the springs my camber would be sooo negitive the it would be a very bad deal. in looking at the ranger setup, i figured that if i moved the mounting holes for the i-beams up directly above the originals that i could cut the springs little by little until the camber was somewhere close to where it was supposed to be. i know that at this point, just by looking at the wheels from the front that i am running about 2 to 2.5 degrees negative. so my handling is good. and so far after about five months of driving i still have even tread wear. are you referring to the caster? cause thats the only problem that i can think of with doing what i've done to my truck, that the wheels would have been moved forward in the process of moveing the beams up i know that the camber is ok, and the toe is the same as far as i can tell. but te caster may have changed. but i drive the truck everyday, and it has manual steering on top of that. and i haven't noticed anything in my steering that has caused me any concern. the last thing that i have to say is, if i had the money to buy the drop beams, and springs, i would have. i dont like to half-ass anything, and i would hate to do something that was just plain stupid. like these honda guy's that just take out the springs on they're car's and ride on the bumpstop's! i really thought my setup was ok, maybe not the best way to go, but good enough for a poorboy!

thanks for the concern of ME! lol
also , my wheels are turned to the right a bit. thats why they look like they sit too far back in the pic.

i really thought my setup was ok, maybe not the best way to go, but good enough for a poorboy!

Honestly bro, if its good enough for you, its good enough. Welcome to the site, BTW. Pro comp makes a set of adjustable sleeves. They helped my 2wd out. They are like 60 bucks or so. May be just what you need to fix the cast problem

welcome to RPS poorboy.
ps. the economy is getting better so hopefully soon you won't be as poor. lol

whats up bro welcome

matt167, first off i am not questioning your knowledge, but here is what i thought when i dropped my truck. i knew if i cut the springs my camber would be sooo negitive the it would be a very bad deal. in looking at the ranger setup, i figured that if i moved the mounting holes for the i-beams up directly above the originals that i could cut the springs little by little until the camber was somewhere close to where it was supposed to be. i know that at this point, just by looking at the wheels from the front that i am running about 2 to 2.5 degrees negative. so my handling is good. and so far after about five months of driving i still have even tread wear. are you referring to the caster? cause thats the only problem that i can think of with doing what i've done to my truck, that the wheels would have been moved forward in the process of moveing the beams up i know that the camber is ok, and the toe is the same as far as i can tell. but te caster may have changed. but i drive the truck everyday, and it has manual steering on top of that. and i haven't noticed anything in my steering that has caused me any concern. the last thing that i have to say is, if i had the money to buy the drop beams, and springs, i would have. i dont like to half-ass anything, and i would hate to do something that was just plain stupid. like these honda guy's that just take out the springs on they're car's and ride on the bumpstop's! i really thought my setup was ok, maybe not the best way to go, but good enough for a poorboy!

you should at least take it to an allignment shop.. the caster is adjustable regardless of the drop, because it's the angle of the suspension as viewed from the side ( front to back tilt )... when you changed the position of the beams at the back, you changed the axis they ride on, so the center of gravity changed.. it might be ok, and it probably is, but when you do this type of thing, you really gotta be careful. could cause bump steer which could throw you off the road if your not paying attention.... anyway, if it's been trouble free for 5 months, it's probably ok.... just for next time. use a CAD program, plug the numbers in and figure it out. really the best way to re-engineer a suspension system

yes. i agree completely that when it comes to suspension you can not be too careful. i know that if i put my truck on an allignment rack with, say for argument a friend of mine who has been doin "cars" for longer then ive been alive, i would probally get a nice little lecture and a dissaproving shake of the head, followed by a smile. but i know that my truck is not dangerous, and honest to god the only change i have noticed is the stiffer, more agressive ride. and with manual steering im sure i would have noticed any fatal differance as soon as i got it on the road. also, i have no experience with cad or anything like that. what would be the best way to go about learning the software? i would love to be able to do fabrication on numbers, not guesswork! also, i would like to say to anyone who reads this that is clueless to cars and suspension and such, first off. i went to a school and learned about suspension's, and how they work and how to service them. so i have basic knowledge of how they work, and how the wrong adjustment can, as matt167 said "throw you off the road". my decision was very risky, but very thought out. if you dont know what the hell your doing, dont do it!!! just buy off the shelf bolt on parts and take it to a shop for allignment. also for the sake of my argument, when you lift a ranger they have brackets to replace your originals when you replace your springs for taller one's. is that not the same concept as me redrilling my hole's in the original brackets? also my camber is probally more like 1.5 to 2.0 degrees negative. and i know that .5 or 1 degree nagative is a factory setting for any car on the road. so whatever i am running, i know im not too far from factory setting's. and if i get some money i will have drop beams on it for the sake of a proper done job if nothing else. also. right now i am the only dude on the road that i know of with a stock beamed ranger this low with decent camber. so yay for meeeee!!!!!!!

to each his own...but if i were you I would keep an eye out for any stress fractures between the oringinal holes and the one you drilled. You may have created a weak point there. Also those kits for lifting trucks also include a bracket to change the location of the radius arms.

yes, good point about the weakness between holes. but i dont think there is that much pressure going on in that point of the system. i think most of the stress is at the radius arms, and the wheel side. but i could be wrong. and i have looked at the brackets very recently, and there is no fracture's of anykind. i am in the process of replacing my tranny and while i have the truck in the air, i made the point of going over everything related to my drop. but i will admit that in five or so months, i havent looked under the truck but ounce or twice. i thought about welding up the old hole's to keep everything strong, but i wanted to be able to go back to stock if i decided. and like i said, i dont think there's that much stress at that end of the beam's.

also, i never looked into the lift kits. so i was only guessing.