hey guys are there any places to buy just slotted rotors out there????? if so where can i find some for a good price?

same thing w/ some brake pads too.

thanx guys

For the Ranger???

Try a new set of rotors and your local machine shop. They can fix you up.

Farmer :) :)

Here is my set up. (http://64.246.6.99/~admin5/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=24899)

Keep your eyes on the group purchase board. I think there is going to be another GP sometime in April.

I got these for $140 shipped from Cali to Florida.

Hope this helps.

Chuck

If you do not plan on upgrading the diameter of the rotors than my suggestion is to use good quality stock rotors and Performance Friction "Z-rated" carbon metallic pads. These pads are wonderful! Only down side is on cold days the first time you brake can startle you. I have a big hill I go down when I leave my house and on cold days I drag the brakes some to get a little heat in them before I reach the bottom. But the hotter they get the better they grab. When stopping quickly you can feel them grabbing harder as the stop continues and they heat up. Not fading as you near the end like the stock brakes. Oh yeah and they have a tendency to wear the rotors faster as well.

If you do get them be sure you get the "z-rated" and not the standard carbon mets. Also stay clear of the race compounds (like the 83 & 93 sold in Summit) because you will stop even worse on the street. The race compounds don't work at all until they are hot and you need several hard stops in a row to get them hot enough.

Also slotted or cross drilled rotors are not needed with carbon mets because they do not produce the gases like most pads. So you don't need an avenue for the gases to escape from between the pads & rotor. Cross drilling/slotting for carbon mets does nothing but compromise the rotor's integrity and reduce braking surface area.

if you want to get cross drilled and/or slotted rotors, do it, but don't get them for better braking. i am not saying they don't work, they do and they work very very well, that is the problem. these type of rotors are more for constant hard braking, like in autocross and things. you would better off to find some larger diameter stock replacements, then match them up with a really good set of pads. one of the best things you can do is upgrade your rear drums. because our trucks have such a big wieght bias, getting the back to brake better would help out alot. another good thing for better braking is stiffer suspension. the less the truck shifts forward in braking, the more the rear will grab. beefier sway bars, stiffer shocks and struts, stiffer springs and a set of bushings all the way around will give better results than those type of rotors. like JoeB said, when they are cold, they hook up real good and this may cause you to go through pads and possibly rotors more often. these are the things i have learned through countless articlels and such, what you decide is your opinion. ask around shops that do performance stuff, make sure this is what you want to do first.

With carbon mets the pads actually last much longer, but the rotors wear much more quickly. When a set of carbon mets finally wear out you will likely need to replace the rotors...even if it was new when you installed the pads. For me I just consider that the price of performace.

"Z"-rated don't like to be used for HD towing though :E
Burned a set flush in a year. I'm back to Factory Spec stockers until I perfect My brake upgrade (after everything else is done!).
Idea is to cut the existing disc OFF to create a Ranger Hub. Then add a mustang style disc (hat) over that hub. The Mustang 4 piston caliper is going to be bolted to a 1/4" plate welded in the knotch that was used to mount the Ranger caliper (with those damn sping clips). Should be neat!

hmmm. that's interesting. I will keep that in mind because I am currently searching for a full size truck to tow with. I know not to put the z rated pads on it when the time comes. I wonder why? How long do the oem pads last while towing?

I'm testing that now...
So far, 4 months with no problems or notiable difference in braking.