You still have that gasket kit for the 3.0 and the oil pump? I am gettin block work on Monday and will be assembling soon. Let me know if ya still wanna sell it. How can I be sure that it will work on my 3.0 I'm doin, since it didn't work on yours? Glad to be back in touch wif ya'll.

Yes, yes, yes. I still have it, I will still sell it to you, and it will fit on your engine. The engine I have is a '92 roller cam, the gasket set I got is for a pre-91 flat tap. I did some checking, and a gasket set for that engine is actually more money than for my roller cam. By almost $30. Let me know...

I will let you know early next week, prob Monday or tuesday, while my block is gettin done I should have some spare $ to send ya. Thanks a bunch. What did you want for the kit and pump again? Just so I know how much NOT to spend at Carlisle this weekend, ahahah. Later.

I just checked my receipts, and it was $188 for the complete gasket set (includes valve seals and all) and the oil pump. If shipping is a prob, let me know. I would consider covering that to keep from losing my a$$ on the whole deal...

You've got yerself a deal man, thanks! Shoot me an email at kingpong1@yahoo.com with your address and the exact amount. Then I will send you a check ASAP for that amount.

I'm so pshyched about gettin this thing in my truck. Do you have yours in yet? Any tips I should know? When I go to do it, there will be 2 of us doing the work and I plan on starting on a Friday evening and being done and have it running by Sunday evening, is that a good time frame to expect? All the electronics have harnesses stock so they should just plug back in. I'm not sure though how the distributor should be adjusted though. Just like a regular carburated engine? Thanks a lot man. I'll hear from you later.

NO, I haven't even started to reassemble it yet! Every time I think I am going to be able to spend the evening in the barn, I end up having to do something else. As far as tips, you will have to drop the tranny mount in order to be able to get to the top bellhousing bolts. Use LOTS of wd-40 or equivalent penetrant. Air tools are a big plus. I would drop the "wye" pipe off of the manifolds and leave them attached to the head and remove them when you can get to them (less chance of snapping a bolt). As far as the distributor, just make sure the engine is on tdc #1, and line up the rotor with the #1 pin on the cap. You may have to pull it a couple of times until you can determine how much the rotor turns when you install the dis in the block, but that should get you close enough to hit it with the timing light. Good Luck!!