I'm lookin for an intake tube for my '94 XLT 4x4 4.0L (ie - looking for the '95 tube) ... does anyone happen to know this stock OE part number. Also, does anyone know if anyone makes an aftermarket (say anodized or non-anodized aluminum for example) intake tube I could get instead, preferably one piece bent etc. I've been considering trying to get a muffler shop here in town to try and bend me one but I'm not sure if they will / can. What would i ask if they could just create a 3" aluminum mandrel bent tube that goes from here (point to box) to here (behind passenger headlight) creating the "L" shape. I know this has been touched on before but old boards are gone =( I also have to consider the K&N FIPK kit because of emissions etc...Thanks

Talk to Gerry. He just bought a K&N FIPK for his truck and to pick up the 95 intake tube. I think it cost him like $45 and I'm positive he'll still have the Ford part number. You probably already have his e-mail address from the hearder deal but if not let me know and I'll get it for you.

Here's my advice...

Go with a newer model stock intake tube. I'm not sure if my intake (2000) is any different from a 95 but mine is large and very smooth inside. One disadvantage people never touch on when talking about a metallic type tube is heat. The stock rubber tubes resist heat MUCH better than do the aluminum ones, thus keeping the incoming air as cold as possible. Also, you may even think of using a stock air box and just opening up the front of it. This again keeps the heat away. The other option would be using a filter on a MAF adapter like one found here, KKM Motorsports (http://www.kustomz.com). If you go that route, however, try and a fab up some sort of heat shield to keep that hot engine air out.

Hope I haven't confused anyone. ;)

:rolleyes: Actually, you did confuse me. Probably my lack of experience and knowledge. :confused: The K&N kit can just bolt on to the end of the MAF as is say on a newer intake tube from a '95 or newer (if it'll fit). I pretty much have to go with the K&N because of emissions. So if i'm on crack and still misunderstanding thanks for clearing me up :p

:drunk:

DevilSun94_4.0L,

I'll send you an e-mail with the part number and the cost. Also, if your ready to buy the K&N kit right now I can still get you the deal that me and Wed got, $135.00 including S&H.

Later Dude !

Devil

You're on the right track. Let me just tell you this (Gerry or Wed or anyone else who has purchased a K&N kit can correct me if I'm wrong), all the K&N kit is is simply an adapter plate that bolts onto the end of your MAF and a cone type filter. To my knowledge, there is no type of heat shield etc. Just an adapter and filter, maybe a backet to hold things up for $135. KKM sells this same type adapter and filter for under $80. No matter which you go with, I'd recommend you making some sort of shield to block the hot air from getting to your filter.

You are correct RangerSVT,

The K&N kit includes the following,

1 - cone filter
1 - MAF mounting plate
1 - rubber adapter ring for attaching the MAF to the intake pipe
2 - brackets to hold the filter in place (you don't use them on a 94 install).

I did check out the KKM kit before I bought my K&N kit but the 95-97 kit runs $92.95 plus I think it was about $15.00 for S&H so the total is more like $108.00. I was willing to pay the extra $27.00 for the K&N name and the emissions cert. Either one of the kits will get the job done and I agree with you about making a heat shield of some sort. I guess it's all a matter of personal preference.

Gerry

I would bet that the intake that K+N is developing right now for the 98'-00' 4.0L will include the intake pipe and cold air isolation for the filter. If not, they are wasting their time on R+D. I would think that the buying public (the folks who read the truck mags and have somewhat of an idea of what effects performance) is aware of the importance of not allowing the engine to ingest hot engine compartment air. It's pretty common to see these adds with pictures of the cone filter with some type of plastic barrier around it. Just a few years ago, everyone was happy with just the cone filter. I think through marketing and advertising, people expect to get a better engineered product for their money.

Im a clever little Devil and I live at the Hardware store:

Bought a PVC rubber elbow 3" both ends and made my KKM into a cold air setup:

Thanks for all the responses and advice. I have to say JTR is well ... <i>pimper</i> ... than most of us. :afro:

That aside i'll be ordering my K&N tomorrow and hopefully getting my tube here about the same time (not soon enough for this weekend probably) :( but i'll live...guess the headers go on this weekend...with Gerry's luck or better :D Thanks again for the help everyone, and Gerry for hookin the headers up.

Not just another Ranger...MY Ranger

I don't think the "heat soak" into an aluminum intake pipe is going to make one bit of difference. Sven told me awhile back that he himself uses 2.75" thin wall aluminum pipeing because it is more durable than plastic. As for the intake pipe here is what you do.


Intake kit for ‘93-’94 Ford Ranger


List of parts needed:
2 90 degree 3” PVC pipe couplers (rubber with hose clamps on the ends)
1’ of 3” PVC pipe
1 5/8” screw in type hose fitting (from cooling system section of your auto store)
2’ 5/8” hose
1 KKM intake kit
1 tube black RVT silicone

First things first. You need to get rid of the stock air box. Start by removing battery
negative cable and leave it disconnected while you work(this will reset the computer).
Then remove the three nuts that attach the air box to the inner fender from under the right
side inner fender skirt. Remove the two nuts off the aluminum shield around the right
side exhaust manifold and the one screw attaching the intake pipe to the radiator core
support. Do not discard this screw! Remove the vacuum hose that runs from the fire
wall to the top of the air box. You can leave the other vacuum line in place because it
goes to the warm air valve farther down on the intake pipe. Remove the four bolts
holding the mass air sensor to the air box lid. Remove the hose from the oil filler to the
intake pipe and the connector from the top of the mass air sensor. Then remove the two
screws attaching the throttle body cover and loosen the hose clamp attaching the intake
pipe to the throttle body and remove the intake pipe. Then remove the rest of the air box
assembly. Take the vacuum fitting that was removed from the air box and remove it
from the end of the vacuum hose. Then remove the vacuum hose and T-fitting. Use the
vacuum fitting removed from the airbox and use it to attach the two existing vaccume
hoses that were removed from the T-fitting(see picture).

Next you need to make the new intake pipe. Start by cutting the bell off one end of one
of the 90 degree PVC couplers. Cut it as close to the bell as possible. I used the edge of
the bell as a guide. You do this because the couplers are designed to attach a PVC pipe
with a 3” inside diameter so the bells on the ends of the coupler that the pipe goes in is
larger than 3”. The throttle body is only about 2.5” and the coupler wont clamp down
that far. Now put the hose clamp from the bell on the end of the coupler you just cut the
bell off of ,and attach it to the throttle body so that the end with the bell is facing the right
side of the truck and tighten the hose clamp(see picture). Make sure it is fully seated on
the throttle body. If you don’t get it completely on the throttle body you will get an air
leak and you will have derivability problems and it could suck debris and damage the
engine internals. Next cut the PVC pipe to 12’. Then measure the threaded end of the
5/8” hose fitting and drill a hole in the pipe slightly smaller 4-5” from one end. Screw
the fitting into the hole and apply a small bead of black RVT silicone around the fitting
working it into the threads of the fitting where they go into the pipe to seal it(see picture).
Insert the opposite end of the hose that the fitting is in into the coupler attached to the
throttle body with the fitting facing rearward.

Attach the new KKM air filter to the KKM adapter plate. Then attach the air filter
assembly to the mass air sensor using the bolts supplied in the KKM kit. Looking at the
mass air sensor form the intake pipe side and the black box up attach the bracket supplied
with the KKM kit to the upper left bolt with the bracket pointing to the left and the bent
end facing you (see picture) and leave this bolt loose for now. Attach the air filter/mass
air sensor assembly to the second 90 degree PVC coupler so that the other end of the
coupler is facing away from the black box on top of the mass air sensor and tighten the
hose clamp. Attach this assembly to the PVC pipe with the assembly pointing straight
down and tighten the hose clamp. Using the screw saved from the removal of the intake
pipe to the radiator core support attach the bracket from the mass air sensor to the hole
the screw originally came from(see picture). Position the assembly so it isn’t coming in
contact with the alternator pulley or fan and tighten the bolt attaching the bracket to the
mass air sensor. Cut the 5/8” hose to 15” and attach one end to the fitting on the oil filler
neck and one end on the fitting on the intake tube. Finally reattach the negative battery
cable.

Upon initial start up the truck may run rough. This is due to the computer being reset.
Once you drive the truck for awhile the computer will start relearning. The reason you
want to reset the computer is because it’s current settings are with the factory air box
where it isn’t getting as much air. By resetting the computer it will relearn with the air
flow of the new intake.

Geoff Thomas
a.k.a. rangergts

Well finally got around to putting my intake on last night. :) Put the rubber size adapter on backwards so didn't lock into intake tube correctly and fell off when i got to work. Lucky i had a screwdriver. :rolleyes: LOL. None the less I am taking the cold air 90 degree bend approach, will put the bend in it this weekend when I put my headers on. I GUARANTEE i will get those headers on this weekend or else I will make Gerry come down here and put them on for me! :nuts: Damn now that the engine is getting more air wow what a difference, especially since only other thing I have done is a FlowMaster American Thunder cat-back system and MSD 8.5 wires. Its incredible I can actually put my truck in red now if i want, as to before it never seemed to be able to even pull past 4,000 rpm's or so. Well, wish me luck on the headers, damn I hope I can get all the bolts off or I'll be one pissed off mo fo<br>like this -> :cussing: <br><br>So after putting on my nice new JBA headers this weekend, and polishing and waxing it, I should be able to get some pics of my truck finally just to show you guys my ride. After this weekend, here's what it'll be. A 1994 XLT SuperCab 4x4 with offroad package (fender flare guard things, bigger rims, etc), with 2" lift leveling springs in the front with American Racing (AR) Baja 15x8" rims running 31x10.5 R15 tires, with a phatty 4.0L (only 65K miles), Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back (2 1/2" with delta flow series 50 muffler), MSD 8.5mm wires, Modified cold air K&N FIPK intake (thanks for the idea JTR :) ), and a nice new set of silver ceramic coated JBA headers (thanks for the group purchase Gerry :) ), oh yeah and don't forget the pimp stereo! Gotta have music!!!<br><br>:afro: Wish me luck ... for never doing much vehicle work, I sure have learned and done a heck of a lot over the past month or so. It was completely stock about a month and half to two months ago. Now i'm hooked on working on it. Is that bad??

Good luck with the install Dude. If you have the time, take it to a muffler shop and pay them a couple of bucks to loosen all the bolts past the stock headers, it makes the install go a lot faster. Even if you drive a couple of miles with everything wide open like I did (except the headers themselves) it's well worth it. I paid the shop $15.00 to loosen the bolts on the Cat to Y-pipe (3-nuts), Cat to muffler pipe (2-spring bolts), Passenger side Y-pipe to header (2-bolts). Call me if your run into any problems, I'll be home all day Sat. and you already have my number.

Later and again, good luck.
Gerry

PS. Make sure you post your results or I'm gonna come out there and slap you around some.