are there any special tools required to install I-beams? also, ive seen some say that come with ball joints. could i just use the ball joints off the old ones? or was that a dumb question.

No special tools needed. Don't worry about the balljoints either. Aire tools would be the best help, and you'll need a 1 and 1/8 inch socket or wrench for the big I-beam bolt.

you may have seen this but go to ....

http://www.100megsfree4.com/og95ranger/beam.html

the radius arm is a pain to get off. It gets stuck. Correct me if im wrong on the name. i had to bang on it for like 5 minutes.

thanks guys. ill need that page Pimpin.

btw what beams did u get?

im not sure. im meeting BadboysRanger in NC to pick them up. he gave one he** of a deal and i couldnt pass it up. is there any reason why you ask that?

ahh no not really, im sure no matter what beam u do get they install in the same basic manner. Consult the hanyes manual if u get stuck too. It sometimes helps. Once you start taking stuff appart it will all make sense. JUST TAKES A SH*T LOAD OF TIME! :mad:

yea i figured it would take a while. thats why im goin to use my friends shop one weekend. that way if i dont get it done in one day then i can leave it indoors overnight. but i hope to have it done in one day.

It took me ans a few buddys 11 hours..for a 3/4

Its been winter driver plenty do everything was rusted bad

have fun!

back when i 3/4'ed mine everything came apart faster than greased lighting except for the huge bolt that holds the beam in on the drivers side, it was a major pain!!! O & I didn't have to take out my ball joints either. took me and my one buddy about 7-8 hours.

94 ranger here and it took me 5.5 hours with a bud to do mine 3/4

all i can say is make sure you spray every nut and bolt daily for a week that your gonna have to remove... it will make takin it apart a peice of cake

thanks. i guess ill start sprayin WD-40 on them. its gonna be about 2 weeks before i install them b/c im waitin on my c-notch first.

It took my brother and I 8 hours for the front, about 4 for the back when I did mine. Everything was poo rusted together. You should be able to get it done in a weekend. Don't rush yourself, and everything will be fine. Good Luck!

maybe u should spray them, but i didnt and i had no problem. Took me and my dad like all together about 12 hrs or so. maybe a bit more. did u also get new shocks? u must for the back cause i havent and it sucks for a ride. ITs possible not to but i suggest if u have the money dont. I've heard the Doestch (sp?) ones are good.

i havent got new shocks yet but i plan on to as soon as i get some more cash.

Ball joints are pressed into the spindle, and bolted into the I-beam, easy to get off i beam with a fork, or a hammer, haha


don't have to worry about the ball joints when doing I-beams

hey guys..since yall r talkin about taking the suspension all apart....i thought that i should go ahead and ask...when i am going to cut my coils....do i have to undo everything the beams and radius arms....or can i just somehow get the coil to come out....and then keep the suspension on some wooden blocks and cut the coild and reinstall it...and bolt it back up and let it come on down....i know that a bunch of people told me not to cut the coils but i dont really care about ride.... so if i am right these r the only instructions i will need to use...
1) Park your truck on flat level surface. PIC 1
Chock the rear wheels.
Loosen front lug nuts.
Raise the front with a floor jack.
Support the frame with jack stands. Remove front wheels.PIC 2

NOTE : ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS - NEVER RELY ON JACKS ONLY!!

2) Using the floor jack, support the driver side beam near the spring bolt.PIC 3
Remove front shocks.PIC 4
Loosen tierod end bolt & remove from spindle.PIC 5
Remove nut and tie rod end.PIC 6
Loosen lower spindle ball joint nut, and remove upper spindle ball joint pinch bolt.PIC 7
Separate lower spindle ball joint.
You can now remove spindle from beam.PIC 8
Secure spindle to frame with safety wire.PIC 9

DO NOT LET SPINDLE HANG FROM BRAKE LINE!!

3) Loosen and remove lower shock mounting bolt.
Loosen and remove end link assembly from beam and sway bar.PIC 10
Loosen and remove coil spring retainer nut, and coil retainer.
Lower floor jack a little bit and remove coil spring.

and then cut them and then put it all back together...
and can i still use the stock shocks....if they r not already blone i think they r...i think that i am looking at a 3/4 drop for now untill i can get some beams and then i will go lower...

ok from what i remember when i was doing it its really not that hard. Take off the wheel, then u will see it basically right in front of you. Take off the shock and then loosen the nut inside the coil. U wont be able to get it out until you make the Ibeam loose. I think you will have to disasemble the tierod end and sway bar. You wont have to take off the spindle im almost 100% positive. someone correct me if im wrong.

thanks...so basically i just take the wheel off and then loosen the shock and losen the tire rod and take the sway bar off...and the see if i can get the coil out...and i have herd that i dont have to reinstall the sway bar....so did i get everything

when i had coils i cut them in the truck not 2 hard. jus take off the wheels and cut. mine rode nice w/ cut coils

ok, with my truck i had the leafs springs heated a long time ago and it dropped my truck about 2 inches. so now, with a flip kit and 2 inc drop coils the front is about an inch higher than the back. when i put my DJM beams on, what would be the best way to lower the back more to level it out. blocks or shackles? which i know i got to notch the back firsts. anyone have any idea how much places usualy charge to notch the back? i got a moster notch from Pure XTC so i have everything i need. does anyone make a bolt on bracket kit for the front?

does anyone remember exactly what it took to install the ibeams as far as tools go. i wanna make sure i have everything i need before i start it so i dont have to stop workin and run to the hardware store.

basically if you have a selection of sockets, a good impact and a good selection of wrenchs youve got it all. I also needed a torch to heat some things up to get them to move. It all depends how rusty things are.

One "special tool" i used was a balljoint fork seperator. You arent supposed to use one because you can damage the balljoint seal when you are hammering in, However if you are carefull it can be done. You may be able to just hit the beam in the sweet spot and get the balljoints on the spindle to unlock and drop out, however i couldnt so I used the fork.

Anyways good luck!

well i dont have a torch so hopefully sprayin so wd-40 on them for about a week will help. but does anyone make a bolt-on bag bracket for the front?

Originally posted by onelow97ranger
well i dont have a torch so hopefully sprayin so wd-40 on them for about a week will help. but does anyone make a bolt-on bag bracket for the front?

airbag brackeT???

AAC does I believe:
www.alteredaltitudecustoms.com

AAC is what i was told...but when i was lookin in to it did not see it..goose told me thats were he got his a long time ago...but he said that he did not lay out...he had 16 inch rims and said that he was about 2iches from laying...but he did not notch for tire rod...and did not take the innerfenders out...so u might be able to lay...

Originally posted by linkinlogan
AAC is what i was told...but when i was lookin in to it did not see it..goose told me thats were he got his a long time ago...but he said that he did not lay out...he had 16 inch rims and said that he was about 2iches from laying...but he did not notch for tire rod...and did not take the innerfenders out...so u might be able to lay...

the AAC site really isnt that thorough just go to the contact section and email Kevin or Jeff.

Um in all honesty the mounts should be the same as weld in ones as far as laying goes. Its gonna be real hard to lay on 16's with inner fenders...or without notching 4 tierod clearnce for that matter...i Really think you should be able to lay given you complete the job

im not all that worried about layin out in the front anyway. my main concern is the back so i can throw some sparks. with mine being a daily driver im not goin to put the extra money into it for all that. i prob. wont ever show mine at a show either.

well if u get a bolt on kit i dont see y u should buy it cause the reason u buy a bolt on kit is cause u either dont have a welder or dont know how to weld...and u stil have to weld to notch for tire rod so go ahead and buy the weld on kit if u can weld...i just dont see the point..

well, i dont have a welder and have no clue how to weld. i have to find a body shop around here that can weld my c-notch in for me. i got to take the guy a picture so he can see how its done.

Originally posted by linkinlogan
well if u get a bolt on kit i dont see y u should buy it cause the reason u buy a bolt on kit is cause u either dont have a welder or dont know how to weld...and u stil have to weld to notch for tire rod so go ahead and buy the weld on kit if u can weld...i just dont see the point..

very good point. The only reason I can see, is that you dont plan on keeping your truck for ever and ever and want ot be able to rid of the mounts without leaving a big mess..

weld on the mounts and notch up around those tie rods..lay er out!

if i notch for the tie rods do i have to have a little piece like for a small c-notch?

i dont think you have to, as it is realoly small and wont significantly effect the structural integrity of your frame in taht area, but for coolness points a you could!

ok, well how do i know how much to take out for the tierods. or do i just take a guess and take little out here and there?

well i still think that u should get a weld on kit....even if u dont know how to weld...use the extra money that u will spend on a bolt on kit and go buy a welder....and learn how to weld...and then one day u will be able to bag your truck.....and not be worried about not laying out....i dont have a welder but someone has already tought me and i can weld pretty good...but the welds r still kinda ungly....gotta work on that....or on the other hand u could just pay a shop to bag your hole truck...

so the bolt on kits are more? well, i guess i could teach my self how to weld but i dont know a thing about welders. could someone give me some info as far as picking one and anything to help me out?

Well I can't remember the name of the welder I am gonna eventually buy...but I know that who has a welder jus like it... u can pm them contact jory and ask him what welder he has... and it depends on what kinda welder u got but I like wire feeders... so when u pull the trigger on the welder more and more wire comes out so and when u have u have (I don’t know what it is called but it looks like a jumper cable to start your car off with) and when u have that hooked to something on the metal u r weldeing it will weld when the wire hit the metal...I haven’t really ever made any straight welds but I have just made tack welds to weld stuff up....and basically all u have to do then is just buy a welder and practice a whole lot.... Before u take it to your truck... and of course u have a bottle of gas that runs with it...and u have a plug in that plugs in to a drier that drys close plug in...And if I have missed anything ok please fill him in....

thanks man. it would help me alot to learn how to weld. then i wouldnt have to drop my truck off somewhere and pay someone to do it. i could also get things done quicker and more often.

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