Sorry guys for some reason I couldn't complete my post last night for those that are wondering.:nuts: I just need to know if my manual is correct.(chilton's)
I know chilton's is famous for having things a bit wrong so here's what it says.
1.put heads in place
2.install lower intake then finger tighten all bolts
3.tighten lower intake bolts to 36-72 in/lbs
4. tighten head bolts to 59 ft/lbs
5.tighten lower intake bolts to 6-11 ft/lbs
6.tighten head bolts an additional 80-85 degrees
7.tighten lower intake bolts 11-15 ft/lbs
8.tighten lower 18ft/lbs
9.dip each pushrod in heavy oil and install
10. install rocker shaft assemblies and tighten the bolts to 46-52 ft/lbs front to rear in several stages

Does all of this sound right?Again sorry for the confusion

When I bolted the heads back onto my engine a couple weeks ago, thats pretty much the sequence that I used.

Only thing I did different, is I torqued the head bolts to 24#'s, then 44#'s, and then 59#'s, and then the 80-90 degree turn.

Originally posted by Adam Baker
When I bolted the heads back onto my engine a couple weeks ago, thats pretty much the sequence that I used.

Only thing I did different, is I torqued the head bolts to 24#'s, then 44#'s, and then 59#'s, and then the 80-90 degree turn.

Thanks Adam for the clarification. I thought that just tightening them right down to 59 ft/lbs was a bit wrong.
One thing it didn't mention was how tight the fuel rail bolts are supposed to be. I'm guessing not very much.

The fuel rail bolt (studs) are supposed to be tightened to 10 ft/lbs in a circular pattern from the inside out.


Bird

Originally posted by BIRD
The fuel rail bolt (studs) are supposed to be tightened to 10 ft/lbs in a circular pattern from the inside out.


Bird

Thanks Bird.:thumbsup: I checked my manual again and can't find that info anywhere.(maybe I wasn't looking in the right spot) :)

µ 26. Install bolts and tighten in sequence shown in three steps:

1 Tighten to 30-35 Nm (23-25 lb-ft).

2 Tighten to 70-75 Nm (52-55 lb-ft).

3 Tighten an additional 90 degrees.

µ 27. Install the push rods (6565).

µ 28. Install the rocker arm shaft assembly and tighten in two steps.

1 Tighten to 30-34 Nm (22-25 lb-ft).

2 Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
29. Install the camshaft synchronizer. For additional information, refer to «Section 303-14».

µ 30. Apply silicone rubber in four places.

l Use Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G323-A4.

µ 31. Install a new intake manifold gasket (9439).

µ 32. Install the intake manifold (9424).

µ 33. Install and tighten the bolts in sequence in four steps.

1 Tighten to 2.5 Nm (22 lb-in).

2 Tighten to 10 Nm (88 lb-in)

3 Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

4 Tighten to 14-18 Nm (11-13 lb-ft).


thats what my ford manual said looks very simalar but it looks like the combined a few steps

and bird's torque spec is correct (9-11 ftlbs)

rutt if you want all the info i have i can email it to you in a pdf

I would appreciate that info if you could send it. Thanks.

fm10153@msn.com

email sent

The only part I disagree with is the use of silicone. The newer lower intake gaskets already have rubber/silicone on the corners. I think in my case the silicone actually added to the problem. It appeared as though the silicone actually ate through the rubber and then went into water jackets in the heads. But thanks for the info. I really appreciate the help.:thumbsup:

Rutt, I guess it depends on the type of gaskets you get. I got gaskets for the 4.0 I have, and the lower intake gaskets werent connected, you had to run a bead of silicone between the heads, along the block, at the front & rear, in order to get it to seal.

Originally posted by Adam Baker
Rutt, I guess it depends on the type of gaskets you get. I got gaskets for the 4.0 I have, and the lower intake gaskets werent connected, you had to run a bead of silicone between the heads, along the block, at the front & rear, in order to get it to seal.

I think the dealership I dealt with must have been using the older ford books or something as they used black silicone to seal things up.
At school I helped with a '92 Aerostar with two cracked heads and the intake gaskets were completely different(like yours) and we did use silicone in the corners. When I first saw the lower intake gasket for my '99 I was shocked to see just how different it was. I then showed my friend with the aerostar and he didn't know what engine it went on.:nuts: :) I then told him and he said it would have been much easier to install. Even my chiltons says to use silicone but looking at the gasket I don't think it's necessary since it's already 'built' into it.

there is a pic to go along with step #30

it looks like they want you to stick a 6mm bead of silcone at the corners

i dunno
have fun

Just wanted to add for those interested. I didn't use any silicone and so far no leaks. Also that 80-85 degree extra turn on the head bolts is easier said than done.:nuts: Just make sure to have a good quality T-55 torx bit as mine was destroyed in the process.
All said and done this project has been a great success. But just as another FYI for others. Make sure you mark the locations of where all the wiring and connectors go or else you'll end up playing the 'matching game' for a few hours.

Oh yea, I definatly agree about the final 80 degree torque. I had my engine stand move around quite a bit while I was working on torquing down all my head bolts.

why they put the final torque 80degre and not like 10ft/lb more wont that be esier