I need some encouragement from you guys with the TransGo shift kits. I've got the 5R55E auto in my '98 with the 4.0 (only 28k on it). I've never been impressed with the way its shifted. (Last car was a 5.0 5sp manual Mustang - so no wonder I was dissapointed with the auto).

I have read several posts on the kits with almost all of them being favorable. I guess I'm a little scared to tear into the tranny and need some encouragement. I'm not worried about the hard shifting since I'm usually the only one that drives the truck - I would plan on installing both springs. All comments are welcome, but I'm really interested in:

1. Will the 1-2 shift bark the stock 225/70/14 stock tires under heavy accel?

2. Does the kit improve the 2-3 shift under WOT, currently it is fairly harsh and there is some slip much like the transgo kit claims to fix?

3. How hard is it to adjust the 'bands', what do the 'bands' do, and how would I know if they needed adjustment?

4. The kit's description sez it 'allows you to hold any gear'. What exactly does that mean?

Sorry for the 20 questions, but I need some favorable comments to push me over the edge. I am concerned about the tranny's health b/c it is the 2nd most expensive part of the truck. Since I've done a few minor mods and have a few more minor ones planned, I want to be sure I do all I can to preserve the tranny. The 2-3 shift's slip bothers me quite a bit.

i got one sittin in my room i am just scared **** to put it in myself

Break out a large piece of cardboard to help catch the fluid, get on some disposable clothes, and go at it. It's not that hard as long as you follow the directions. Mostly messy as the trans drips fluid the entire time you're under there. I'm assuming you know about unbolting the pan a little at a time until the rear drops and fluid starts to run out. Have a pan that will hold at least 2 gallons, but you will only lose maybe 5 quarts. After the pan is off, it's a matter of unbolting and replacing stuff. If you can change plugs and wires, you can put the kit in. The most difficult thing on the older models was keeping a couple small (about 1/4") ball bearings in place while putting everything back together. Use grease to hold them in, but they loosen up quick since the fluid is still dripping. Decide on the shift firmness you want before starting, I usually did the first stage because the firmer ones can get really harsh.

On the questions.
1) A engine and trans in good condition will probably bark the tires on the 1-2 shift.
2) It improves all shifts, none of them have any slip after the change.
3) I don't think the bands are adjustable anymore, the last I worked on you could adjust the 1st/reverse band and that was it. The bands are kinda like the brakes used on go carts, a band that wraps around the shift drums to transfer power. That's where the shift firming comes in, more pressure is applied to these so they grip more quickly and firmly.
4) I don't know if the "hold any gear" applies. It basically would let you keep it in whatever gear you selected manually. Since these only have 1-2-Drive, that's all you can do anyway.

Good luck, get greasy. You can do this in no more than 2 hours if you follow the instructions. 1 hour if you're quick. Don't forget to add fluid when you're done, and check the level every day for a couple days to make sure it's full. Doesn't hurt to measure what drained out so you can have a close idea on what to put back in. And watch for the small bearings and any springs that fall out. The instructions show where they go back, and it's pretty easy to figure out anyway. I haven't done a kit on the later models so the balls may not be there anymore. But all the kits work the same way, remove the valve body and either modify or replace the valve body separator plate, and a couple other minor things that are covered in the instructions.