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Thread: is it the throwout bearing again?

  1. #1
    Pool Truck of Fury! Fast240Z's Avatar
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    is it the throwout bearing again?

    Hey all, my ranger is giving me more grief, and I want to get it fixed. A while ago, I heard a "whooshing" noise coming from the bellhousing area, when the truck was in neutral and the clutch was not in. The noise eventually got louder, my clutch got more and more heavy, until one day, the clutch pedal no longer worked. My father and I had decided it was the throwout bearing/slave cylinder, so we dropped the transmission, and bought a new bearing/cylinder, reinstalled the transmission with the new part, and the noise was gone altogether. I've been driving the truck, my father borrowed the truck (it's his in the first place) and when I got it back it was whining from the transmission (I'm assuming scored bearings) and about a week and a half later, the "whooshing" noise was back. As I said above, the noise goes away when the clutch is pushed in. What could the problem be? The cylinder/bearing setup I bought was from kragen's, and is unfortunately out of warranty now, and it seems to be failing. What else would cause the symptoms I'm describing, and if it's a tranny I need instead of the slave cylinder, how much would it cost for a new transmission/what could be swapped into the truck?

  2. #2
    A Dream Car Cutlass327's Avatar
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    If it goes away with the clutch in, it wouldn't be a T-O bearing - it is only under load when the clutch is pressed. Does it do it now with the trans in Neutral/clutch released? If so, input bearing of trans may be bad. How's the fluid look? Make sure it is up to level. Are there any fluid leaks? I know of one truck that those rubber plugs on the shifter plate were leaking, causing the fluid to leak to where the input bearing failed. Make sure it is Mercon in there too. I've put the Mercon V in mine.
    88 Ranger ext cab -> 88 T-C engine, LA3, T3, 3-position boost control, Volvo FMIC, Stock Ranger 5spd, Spec 6-puck, 2WD

    78 CJ5 -> 258 I6, 3spd, Dana 20 x-fer, D30 frt/M20 rear axles. 'Glass tub and fenders 31x10.5 BFG A/T tires.

  3. #3
    It's always good to grease the throwout bearing on the shaft once you put it in. If you put it in dry it could be loading the bearing and wearing it out too fast. I agree that it could also be the input shaft but it sounds more like a throwout bearing from what you explained. What kinda shape was the pilot bearing in or did you even bother to look?

  4. #4
    A Dream Car Cutlass327's Avatar
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    I forgot about the pilot bearing - it is only used when the clutch is depressed.
    88 Ranger ext cab -> 88 T-C engine, LA3, T3, 3-position boost control, Volvo FMIC, Stock Ranger 5spd, Spec 6-puck, 2WD

    78 CJ5 -> 258 I6, 3spd, Dana 20 x-fer, D30 frt/M20 rear axles. 'Glass tub and fenders 31x10.5 BFG A/T tires.

  5. #5
    The pilot bearing is usually not a very big deal. It pretty much just braces the end of the shaft but it would be something to look at while you have it apart. There is pretty much only one way to find out what is making the noise. If you do pull it apart, replace it all while you are there because it sucks having to pull it back apart again for something stupid.

  6. #6
    Pool Truck of Fury! Fast240Z's Avatar
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    this is what I bought and replaced

    The old one was missing the blue piece.

  7. #7
    Pool Truck of Fury! Fast240Z's Avatar
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    slave cylinder blew today, truck is F.O.R.D. (found on road dead, lol) luckily I've got my '72 240Z to back me up.

    Is raybestos a pretty good brand?

  8. #8
    Man, you sound like like you are having luck like me. I have a 94 civic coupe too but it's burried under a snow bank waiting for warm weather haha. My truck is supposed to be the back up vehicle but I need another backup for my backup haha. Any slave cylinder is better than the one you have on there now

  9. #9
    A Dream Car Cutlass327's Avatar
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    Raybestos is a good name in friction pieces (clutch, brakes, etc).

    I prefer to Flip Over and Read Directions myself.
    88 Ranger ext cab -> 88 T-C engine, LA3, T3, 3-position boost control, Volvo FMIC, Stock Ranger 5spd, Spec 6-puck, 2WD

    78 CJ5 -> 258 I6, 3spd, Dana 20 x-fer, D30 frt/M20 rear axles. 'Glass tub and fenders 31x10.5 BFG A/T tires.

  10. #10
    Pool Truck of Fury! Fast240Z's Avatar
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    ooooh, so you're saying I did it wrong, are you? I see how it is, blaming me for a crappy part, lol. Just kidding, what could I have done wrong?

    I'm buying a new one this weekend, and replacing as necessary.

  11. #11
    The Made Mechanic CalPBrian's Avatar
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    Yeah just avoid the Kragen crap. Get it from NAPA, their parts are good. I work as a parts guy right now and even though I work at AutoZone, I still get most every part from NAPA.
    Officially transferred to the dark side... 08 Toyota Tacoma 4x4

  12. #12
    Pool Truck of Fury! Fast240Z's Avatar
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    CalPBrian, no offense, but I feel the same about most stuff from AutoZone, it's mostly crap. They've lost my business because of the fact that they never have parts for my datsun in stock, and any time I order a part from them, it takes two weeks to get it, and then it's never delivered.

    But, on the same hand, if Autozone, Napa, and Kragen all carry the same part, what's going to be the difference between any of them?

  13. #13
    Pool Truck of Fury! Fast240Z's Avatar
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    I tried bleeding the slave cylinder, and nothing different resulted from it. Now, when the truck is off, the clutch feels just fine, the pedal works nice and smooth. If you press down the clutch pedal while the vehicle is off, and then start it, the gears shift as they should. But, as soon as I take my foot off of the clutch and reapply it, the clutch now sinks halfway down, and goes no farther, and the transmission will not go into gear. I also had my friend start the car while I was looking in the inspection hole of the bellhousing, and the car made a horrific shreaking noise, and the throw out bearing was on the pressure plate at all times.

    What's the problem?

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