94 splash 4x4 gets a 302

[SatansBrother]

Yup 12 or 13mm 12 point socket and blow them suckers off with an impact.

12mm is what i used, would hate to see those stupid bolts get rounded off.

[Teddyzee]

When I removed my driveshaft recently, I didn't have a 12pt socket, so no impact...
I used a little heat and a tiny wrench, and they came out with ease. Where there's a will, there's a way!

[1mean02hd]

When in doubt- grab the torch.... lol I think that may be my most favorite tool. Who doesn't like to play with fire?

[gt40]

12mm 12 point. Get a cheap 12 point wrench, and put a big pipe over the end.

[Teddyzee]

We use a hand held torch all the time, with a yellow "MAPP gas" tank. The thing does wonders!

[saleengt2001]

does the core support bolt in on our trucks? i would like to remove it for dropping the 302 in

[Teddyzee]

It does not.

My 302/T-5 went in in one piece fairly easy. There may be a few scrapes on my core support, though!



That's three people guiding it in, and me pushing the chains back.

[1mean02hd]

I had to actually drop my 302 in side ways and spin it once it got in the engine compartment. Note: leave the balancer and water pump off until you get the motor in the truck.

[sdjr]

Time for an update: The engine compartment is empty. The hanging sheetmetal is at the paint shop. I probably need to drop the old tranny from the 3.0 before trying to set the 302 in it. All that's left is the fluid systems, I'll probably pull the clutch and brake hydraulics, and leave the steering box in for test fit/engine mount locations, do I need to lay the heater box in place? Bleed the brakes before taking off brake master cylinder?

Here's where I'm at:

The 3-slow is out



The radiator support is bare



The fire wall is bare

[1mean02hd]

Are you stripping the engine compartment so you can send it out to get it painted?? Otherwise there really wasn't any reason to disassemble all of that. IMO I'd paint it all black and be done with it.

[SatansBrother]

It does not.

My 302/T-5 went in in one piece fairly easy. There may be a few scrapes on my core support, though!



That's three people guiding it in, and me pushing the chains back.

thats why i cut my rad support out, and also cause it was rusted out. In a small little way im glad i have to replace it cause it makes installing/pulling the motor a breeze.

[wahlstrom1]

You can pull the front diff from the beam, and the axleshafts etc. Make sure you leave the stub shafts in the hubs though, or else you'll shear a spindle off just a few miles down the road.

[sdjr]

Are you stripping the engine compartment so you can send it out to get it painted?? Otherwise there really wasn't any reason to disassemble all of that. IMO I'd paint it all black and be done with it.

Yeah, the cab is going out for paint after the box, I actually might do a home line-x or some such stuff. Then I can clean up and paint the frame.

You can pull the front diff from the beam, and the axleshafts etc. Make sure you leave the stub shafts in the hubs though, or else you'll shear a spindle off just a few miles down the road.

What purpose do the stubs serve that they can prevent spindle shear? and if they are not in the pumpkin, won't they rattle around and fall out? Or is there a big ring on the end? I've had them apart a couple times, but there's been much grease under the nails since then and I can't remember off the top of my head, except that the factory manual sucks for the hubs.

[_97_4X4_]

I'm jealous...

[wahlstrom1]

The stubs are weight bearing as the spindle's are hollow. They are held in place by the snap ring/washers that hold up against the outer snout of the spindle.

[sdjr]

I'm jealous...

Yeah me too, I froze my tail off today riding to work on the bike, and got my face scoured with sand kicked up by the other cars. This truck better be worth it.

What do you guys think about painting it british racing green?

[sdjr]

Frickin' exhaust and tranny/transfer case!!!! Took out the speedo cable and then the m-f'er rolled, and puked royal purple all over the driveway!!! I got Pissed at the exhaust hangers and cut them out with the die grinder. who but ford bolts a hanger to the tranny mount??

edit: Okay the entire drive line is out and sitting on a pallet in the corner of the garage...boy that front end looks funky all high up and the front tires canted out at the tops, it looks knock-kneed. Ever try and get the motor mounts out of a 4x4 with twin traction beams?? it took some creative extensions/u-joints to even get on the nuts. and a loooong breaker bar. Here's a tip for the next poor ba$Trd: take the tire off the passenger side..

[sdjr]

So for the next guy: #1 remove engine; #2 remove exhaust, I cut the hangers with a cut off wheel, new exhaust should have new hangers, remember 1 hanger is bolted to underside of tranny mount; #3 with floor jack under transfer case; remove skid plate then loosen tranny mount nuts, and allow transfer case to droop a little. #4 unbolt 5 bolts holding transfer case to transmission extension housing. Work it free and lower it to ground. #5 STRAP tranny to jack, remove mount/tranny support crossmember. #6 ease tranny out no sweat. If only...

AND don't forget to remove gear shift/boot....ahem....

Lastly, palletize engine/tranny/txfr case/shafts and douse with gasoline left over in tank, burn that mean old nasty...





It's an empty tunnel, just waiting for some 302 love.

[sdjr]

Dropped the gas tank today, when I removed the electrical connector from the top, I found what looked like dried sap in there. What is it? Clean it out? Leave it alone? Put more in?


I know you're liking the vacuum caps I put on the tank ports, man the fumes that came out curled my nose hair, I can only imagine what the garage would smell like over night without the caps, if the house didn't blow up first.

[1mean02hd]

That is dielectric grease in there. Keeps the connections from corroding.

[sdjr]

Not real greasy after 16 years. Looks like dielectric glass. Better clean it up and replace it.

[SatansBrother]

that greas just keeps the conector tabs from getin al fed up and making it imposible to reuse. I was in the process of removing my tank last i worked on mine, i just ended up removing a couple crossmembers and the tank one was one of them. Looks good, its starting to get cold here so its gonna suck to work on mine but at least i can move it into a heated shop.

Yah and im sooo glad my truck is only 2wd, its bad enough trying to get to the damn motor mounts i could only imagine with the damn 4wd in the way.

[oldfordisbetter]

so this is what im looking at when i swap a bronco 351 in huh...

[sdjr]

Well, maybe not as much...my budget swap has sorta morphed into a frame off resto/mod. Picked up some POR-15 and marine clean today, to clean and paint the frame. I've blown out the interior mainly for paint, and looks like LMC truck is gonna be my santa this year for door panels, and maybe carpet. I decided to take advantage of mild san diego winters to do this project a little deeper than I first intended.

One thing I noticed is the pile of interior pieces is much bigger sitting on the garage floor, than when assembled in the little cab. LOL.

[SatansBrother]

Well, maybe not as much...my budget swap has sorta morphed into a frame off resto/mod. Picked up some POR-15 and marine clean today, to clean and paint the frame. I've blown out the interior mainly for paint, and looks like LMC truck is gonna be my santa this year for door panels, and maybe carpet. I decided to take advantage of mild san diego winters to do this project a little deeper than I first intended.

One thing I noticed is the pile of interior pieces is much bigger sitting on the garage floor, than when assembled in the little cab. LOL.

I ran into the same problem, figured i would just do the swap for now and the rest later but when i started diging into it i realised i might as well just get it all dont, and the fact that people will say "nice swap, but why didn't you clean up everything else?". So im just gonna get it all out of the way instead of having to tear it apart later down the road.

And i dont exactlly have a "liscens" right now so i have a little time.

I bet the as s end of your truck isnt nearly as bad as mine is tho?

[sdjr]

Nope, my frame is pretty clean, just some brown sugar after 16 years. It all looks pretty much like this, or better.





blown apart, there's the red I fell in love with back in the early 90's.



Let me tell you guys about door disassembly. There's a ton of rivets, and the best tool I used was the dremel with cut off wheel, it beats the stones and tile cutters. I figured on an hour per door, and it turned into 8 hours to figure out the lock actuator rods and how to cut out the window motor and handles.



Just need to figure out how to remove the windshield and rear window, and the cab goes to the paint shop. 4 quick pin holes with the drill to locate door hinges before I haul it.

[sdjr]

Again, in reality, there is nothing quick about drilling pin holes in the heavy steel door hinges ford makes....and it looked so easy when lou did it on Muscle Car. I found the tile cutter bit on dremel the best. Especial when I realized it doesn't have to be perfect, I mean 3/64 of slop will be okay.

[sdjr]

The moment I've been dreaming of...



Dreaming of the engine, not the dude helping me, kyler I work with him.



I repeat: Dreaming of the engine, not pete, the old guy I watch out for.



and here it is...

[sdjr]

Now for the rubs...how do I solve these issues?

Do I locate and drill holes for the nubs, or grind them off?

Driver side


Passenger side



The pan seems to bottom out on the twin traction beam (TTB) pivot point mount; Maybe I can grind it off enought to clear the pan and the drain plug??







Tell me what you think? maybe no ginding, just a couple washers between mount and block on the driver side?

[sdjr]

Here's the locations for the slots I made. I don't know which mount is driver or passenger because they aren't marked and once they were out of the boxes, who knows? But they mount best if the bolt is rearward.

Passenger side:




Driver side: