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Old Mar 14 2009, 05:43pm   #61
fordnut71
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dont force it to much. better to get a tap of the right threads an clean them up using it insead.
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Old Mar 16 2009, 11:40am   #62
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Yeah. The LAST thing you want is to torque it down too tight and break one off in there. I did that with one of the bolts holding on the power steering pump when I replaced my engine.
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Old Mar 29 2009, 09:14pm   #63
lilwhteranger
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wat year tarus did the fan come out of?
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Interior: low back buckets, 04 door panel swap, blue neons, painted interior accents
Exterior: 08 mustang gt wheels, 2/3 DJM drop, fiberglass roll pan, clear lights all way round, tint, shaved tailgate, billet grill, xenon lightning style bumper cover, leer tonno cover
Audio: Kicker 8" L7, Kicker zx450.2, kicker zx350.4, Stinger wires, custom ported box, Kenwood KDC-993
Performance: K&N cold air intake system, high flow cat, Cherry Bomb turbo exhaust
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Old Mar 29 2009, 09:34pm   #64
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just go to a junk yard and find a taurus.. year really doesn't matter as long as it's a single two speed fan you are good to go. mine did need some trimming to make it fit between a 4.0
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GO - V6 4.0L - efan - 3.73 & Trac Loc - Slapper Traction Bars - 5sp swap with hurst shifter
Suspension - DJM 4/5 - Rear air shocks
Audio - Kenwood DDX512 - 2 12" Premier Subs - Custom Box - Kenwood Class D 1800w amp - Pioneer Tweets
Exterior - 5% tint - FR500 18x9 18x10 - clear headlights/fogs - cowl hood - SS mirrors - Rollpan - De-Pinstriped
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Old Mar 29 2009, 10:02pm   #65
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oh ok. i got a 2.5. so it should fit pretty good
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1999 Ford Ranger 2.5L- "LIL WHTE"
Interior: low back buckets, 04 door panel swap, blue neons, painted interior accents
Exterior: 08 mustang gt wheels, 2/3 DJM drop, fiberglass roll pan, clear lights all way round, tint, shaved tailgate, billet grill, xenon lightning style bumper cover, leer tonno cover
Audio: Kicker 8" L7, Kicker zx450.2, kicker zx350.4, Stinger wires, custom ported box, Kenwood KDC-993
Performance: K&N cold air intake system, high flow cat, Cherry Bomb turbo exhaust
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Old Mar 30 2009, 04:19pm   #66
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This is a very nice write-up.I have a 2.3L and it needs as much help as it can get to free up some ponies being used to drive the ancilliaries.

This would be a good idea is to use an electric fan to replace the clutch fan. If there is really no hp to be freed by eliminating the clutch fan and at the same time sacrifice reliability, why do it? The clutch fan would last longer than the efan.

Is there any other reason why it would be good to do this?

Just debating if it is worth the issues involved.
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Old Mar 30 2009, 04:26pm   #67
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well it also helps keep ur engine alot cooler. i live in arizona, so the fan would really help out alot. but i thought they also gave ya better gas mileage
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1999 Ford Ranger 2.5L- "LIL WHTE"
Interior: low back buckets, 04 door panel swap, blue neons, painted interior accents
Exterior: 08 mustang gt wheels, 2/3 DJM drop, fiberglass roll pan, clear lights all way round, tint, shaved tailgate, billet grill, xenon lightning style bumper cover, leer tonno cover
Audio: Kicker 8" L7, Kicker zx450.2, kicker zx350.4, Stinger wires, custom ported box, Kenwood KDC-993
Performance: K&N cold air intake system, high flow cat, Cherry Bomb turbo exhaust
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Old Apr 01 2009, 09:23am   #68
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From what I understand they do improve performance a bit because the efan can always turn off if it's not needed, where the fan clutch will always be there as drag on the engine. Also, in the 10 years I've had my truck the fan clutch has gone out 2x. If the efan lasts longer than 5 years I'll be satisfied. I have a feeling it would/will be easier to swap out too, should it go bad.

Anyway, I went to the junkyard this weekend looking for a few things, I found the relay box boysenberryblue was talking about. It was on the driver's side of a Lincoln Town Car. It didn't seem to be attached to anything, just held in place by the position of the wire harness. Snapped a few pics for those of you who might want to go look for one:










... In the 2nd pic I'm showing the tab you push down to release the tray so it can be slid out. In the last pic, the 30 in the lower right corner... does that mean it's a 30 amp relay? Goody was talking about using 70 amp relays. If so, I'll have to swap out the relays. But I got this and 1 other thing for $5 so if nothing else it's nice as a factory-looking box for a clean install.
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My Truck:
'99 XLT Supercab, 2.5L, 5-speed
Edge Bumper Mod
'01 Lights & Grille Mod
2/3 drop, Nitro shocks
18" Chrome Cobra replica wheels
245/40ZR-18 Kumho ECSTA ASX tires
Color matched topper, without side windows
Sport package (most Sport trucks were Splash, mine is straight bed)
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Old Apr 01 2009, 09:52am   #69
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if you wire the 2 relays in parall you will have like a 60 amp relay. so your spliting the power load across 2 relays as each relay only see 1/2 the amp load. as to running 1 big amp relay.
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Old Apr 01 2009, 12:16pm   #70
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The design calls for 3 relays, and I think all three need to be 70 amp. Doing it the way you mention would only leave room for one more relay.
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Focus 90% of your time on solutions and 10% of your time on problems.
- Anthony J. D'angelo

My Truck:
'99 XLT Supercab, 2.5L, 5-speed
Edge Bumper Mod
'01 Lights & Grille Mod
2/3 drop, Nitro shocks
18" Chrome Cobra replica wheels
245/40ZR-18 Kumho ECSTA ASX tires
Color matched topper, without side windows
Sport package (most Sport trucks were Splash, mine is straight bed)
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Old Apr 09 2009, 01:26pm   #71
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Quote:
Posted by Fla_Panther View Post
In the last pic, the 30 in the lower right corner... does that mean it's a 30 amp relay?
Just wanted to bump in case anyone didn't see this question that I posted in that thread after the pics.
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Focus 90% of your time on solutions and 10% of your time on problems.
- Anthony J. D'angelo

My Truck:
'99 XLT Supercab, 2.5L, 5-speed
Edge Bumper Mod
'01 Lights & Grille Mod
2/3 drop, Nitro shocks
18" Chrome Cobra replica wheels
245/40ZR-18 Kumho ECSTA ASX tires
Color matched topper, without side windows
Sport package (most Sport trucks were Splash, mine is straight bed)
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Old Apr 09 2009, 05:52pm   #72
GoodysGotaCuda
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no, the 30 means terminal 30. Bosch style relays use terminals 85,86,87,87a, and 30

Not all relays have the amp rating on them. Fwiw my 70a relays do, and they have terminal sizes that of "maxi" (big ass) fuses.
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Old Apr 10 2009, 08:24am   #73
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Sooo..... how do I tell what the amp rating is on the ones I have? Multimeter?
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Focus 90% of your time on solutions and 10% of your time on problems.
- Anthony J. D'angelo

My Truck:
'99 XLT Supercab, 2.5L, 5-speed
Edge Bumper Mod
'01 Lights & Grille Mod
2/3 drop, Nitro shocks
18" Chrome Cobra replica wheels
245/40ZR-18 Kumho ECSTA ASX tires
Color matched topper, without side windows
Sport package (most Sport trucks were Splash, mine is straight bed)
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Old Apr 10 2009, 09:38am   #74
GoodysGotaCuda
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Either it says it when you buy it, or it is cast into the plastic. If it doesn't say somewhere, there is no magical way to know...period. Multimeter wont do you any good for figuring current rating.
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Old Oct 02 2009, 11:23pm   #75
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If I am installing this on a 2000, 3.0 ranger where is the purple A/C request wire located?
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Old Oct 03 2009, 12:30am   #76
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I tapped right on top of the compressor. Unplug it and test with multimeter with the a/c on and off for the hot one. My setup works great, I've done this on several vehicles this way...but I'm sure someone will pop in with a full ford ECU schematic (and not have a fan on their truck)
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Old Oct 23 2009, 04:49pm   #77
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In which direction is the fan supposed to spin? I know this is a silly question, but when I was testing my fan this afternoon, I found that switching the polarity of the wires makes the fan spin in opposite directions.
I still need to close off the gaps in my shroud setup because my Taurus fan is different than the one you used in your install. It doesn't have the plug and all you can see from the center are 3 tabs, one which should be low speed, high speed and the negative part of the plug. Of course my engine started running hot since I didn't finish the shroud correctly, but I'll be taking care of that next week. Other than that, I'm going to use the Painless wiring harness to do the wiring. Only problem I have with that is the fact that I can't find a place to thread in the temperature sending unit. I had three places in mind, but I can't remove any of those plugs.
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Old Oct 27 2009, 10:01am   #78
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Fan should be pulling air INTO the engine comparment. I looked for a good plug for the temp switch but couldnt find anything. I ended up splicing into the upper radiator hose and threading my temp switch there.

I fabbed up something like this (exhaust pipe with bung welded to it):



To install a sensor like the middle one (210on/200off):

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Old Oct 29 2009, 12:42pm   #79
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Quote:
Posted by GoodysGotaCuda View Post
Alright ill try again, if you are looking at the diagram that can get confusing. I'll do a basic one speed diagram for you to help understand. A relay needs a power, and ground signal to activate. These need to go to terminals 85 and 86. The diagram shows a 'switched 12v' source, you when you turn your key to the 'on/run' position, that relay gets the power to 85. Now it needs a ground right? Well at a certain temperature, which you tweak, a thermostatic (temperature activated) switch, will make that ground circuit.

Here is a picture of the same switch, pretty much, i have.


See the coiled up wire at the top, with the funky end? Well that is the 'temperature sensing probe'. You stick that through, or on your radiator, and that takes the temperature reading for the switch.
the only problem with this switch that i had is the after about 2 years when i got my truck out of winter stoage it simply did work. that could have ended bad. i now have a fixed rate sensor that pushes through the rad. the one pictured above kind of clamps to the rad as well. the new one works much nicer and better temp control. it's a hayden from advanced auto. just my 2 cents
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94 2wd ranger 3.0, auto, e-fan, Trush welded muffler, 1" body lift. Best mpg to date-25
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Old Nov 02 2009, 08:41pm   #80
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I'm going to have to post my pictures of the way I mounted my Taurus fan within the shroud and how I ended up sealing it, but it looks very much like the one shown at the beginning of this thread, which is what inspired me. I still haven't been able to find a good place to install the temp sensor, but I did have an idea this afternoon and I think I'm going to try it this week. Only other problem is that since I have the fan directly connected to the battery to test out the flow, my engine heats up, about 3/4 of the gauge, but doesn't overheat, which has me a little concerned. I'm going to check the shroud and the seal around the fan tomorrow and hopefully I'll also post pics to see if anyone has any opinions or suggestions as to what else I can try. I'll keep you guys posted, and thanks for the attention!
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What I got:
DJM 3/5 suspension drop, Explorer teardrops with 245/50/16 tires, Euro headlights and corners led by Sylvania Silverstar bulbs, 2000 tails, Mar-K rollpan(crashed), Street Scene mirrors, Silver accented Interior, Reverse Indiglo gauges, RED brake calipers and drums, Pioneer reciever DEH6900UB driving Infinity References up front and Polks in back.
2000 Accord Coupe with Eibach Springs(1.5")and Acura TSX wheels.
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Old Nov 03 2009, 01:16pm   #81
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mine ran hot before the fan turned an as well with that the clip on temp sensior as well.
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90 2wd ranger 2.9, 5 speed, 5/7 drop, 3.73 with ford trac-lock and other performance stuff.................
94 2wd ranger 3.0, auto, e-fan, Trush welded muffler, 1" body lift. Best mpg to date-25
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